Running Amp Power to Trunk - Submitted by Schooner Here's what I bought for this project. 1. A Scosche wiring kit (Walmart). Neat little kit. Has a nice built in adaptor that holds a standard automotive fuse (as opposed to the tube type)... came with 20ft of 12 AWG power, RCAs, an activator wire, a 2ft (?!? - useless) ground cable, some very cheap (crappy) crimp connectors, "O" ring connectors as well as fork connectors. 2. 20' of slit heat resistant tubing. Only needed a little over 10' (probably could have made due with 10')... but I always take the 'better safe than sorry approach to these things. I used this tubing just about everywhere where I though that the cable may even have a remote possibility of rubbing against something. 3. A 200 Watt 'Rampage' (Audiovox) subwoofer tube with built in amp. I know, you guys are laughing... but 200 Watts is enough for me (for now). I also bought electric tape and some other junk. My fish tape proved invaluable during this little project. 1. The first step was to fit the wire into the heat resistant tubing. 2. Next it was time to remove the inner wheel well covering and mud flap in order to gain access to the unused auxiliary moon roof drain plug. Here's what I was greeted with... something. I knew to expect this because I had seen mention of it on here before I started... but I must say I am not impressed with this design flaw. This is the sort of thing that leads to preliminary rusting. Back to the DIY. 3. I found a space to run the cable near the driver's side turn signal. I routed the cable around the fuse box (I actually have the amp fuse in the fuse box) and then around this corner. Basically, every portion of the cable that exists outside of the cabin or trunk area should have heat resistant tubing on it. Also, this tubing should be loosly wrapped in electrical tape to prevent the cable from falling out. Here you see how I wrapped up the cable: Here you see how I ran the cable into the wheel well: Here you can see how I fished the cable from the engine compartment into the wheel well: Here is what the tubing looks like when it is run through the plastic gromet: Note that I cut as little out of the centre of the gromet as I could. This way I have a nice snug fit that will make it harder for water to get through. Also note that I installed the tubing with the slit facing down as it enters the gromet. This way if any water has made it's way into the tubing it will have a chance to drain out before entering the cabin. After this picture I also completely covered the tubing in electric tape from about the top of the wheel well down to about 1/2" away from the gromet. I also siliconed the inside of the tubing where it passes into the cabin as well as around the outside of the gromet. This is important as the last thing you want is water coming in to this part of the vehicle. Here is my rather unelegant solution to getting the cable into the cabin through the plastic cup. I noticed a hole on the back of the cup under the bottom connector. I took a pair of pliars and 'opened' this hole to pass the cable through it. I then put some electric tape around to smooth out rough edges. I am afraid that from this point on pictures get rare. Essentially all I can add here is that I didn't (completely) remove any of the trim pieces along the bottom of the cabin. I found it was possible to simply pry them up enough to pull the cable along. I used tubing near the front door and through the middle column as there are metal brackets everywhere that could cause trouble. The only problem with that is that now the trim piece on the rocker panel near my driver's seat doesn't go back the way it was. I can easily hold it into place, but there is just enough pressure there to pop it out of place slightly. I thought about removing the tubing... but I noticed that Hyundai used tubing through parts of this run as well so I thought it best to leave it in. I think that some crazy glue will fix it (I know, not ideal but a solution). Just a dab at each end and one in the middle ought to be enough to hold it down. Running the cable through the back portion of the car was a snap. Once you get past the middle column you are pretty much home free. I used my fish tape to pull the cable from the rocker panel up to the side of the seat. I also found a great ground location behind the driver's side rear passenger seat. At first I simply put the rear seats down and pushed the side padding (where the rear driver's side shoulder strap comes down) and found this to be sufficient for pulling the cable. But, when it came to hooking up the ground, this wasn't enough room. If you pull back some of the seat padding on the bench near this side piece you will find a single bolt that can be removed to take it out. Simply wind out the bolt, pull up on this padding (careful with the seat belt) and you're open for business. If you take a quick look you will find the ground bolt that I am talking about. It's hard to miss. I think it might be used for the rear defrost. Anyways, also in the area you will find the spot where the wiring harness enters the trunk. Hyundai has filled this hole with a foam padding (I suppose to prevent fumes and such from getting into the cabin). There are two tie-wraps on this foam on the trunk side. You'll have to cut them to pull your cables through. Here's a pic: That's really about it. Now that I have done it once, I can see that it's pretty straight forward. I am not sure how Hyundai techs would look upon my using the moon roof drain plug to run a power cable into the cab... but it's a LOT easier and a LOT less risky than going through the main hole in the firewall (or drilling a new hole). Click here to discuss this Do It Yourself Guide.

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