S/R Motorsports Indiglo (or Reverse Indiglo) Guages - Submitted by SuperGLS 1. Remove the 4 screws that hold the dash in place. Make sure the car is in neutral and put the parking brake on (this is for automatics). Now remove the black dash piece. It is held in with clips, after all the clips are popped out disconnect the dimmer swtich, hazard light, and clock wires. Now it should look like this. 2. Remove the 4 screw that hold the gauge cluster assembly in place. Slightly pull out the guage cluster and disconnect 3 wiring connections that are connected to the back of the gauge cluster. 3. Remove the clips that hold the clear plastic cover in place. 4. Remove the clips that hold the gauge bezel/overlay onto the gauges. 5. Lay the new gauges overtop of the existing gauges and mark the section the gauges that have to be cut out in order to have room for the wires/wire tabs. Set new gauges aside, using an exacto knife cut out (I kind of shaved the plastic) the plastic to allow room for the wire tabs to stick through. 6. Also cut/shave the plastic on the gauge bezel/overlay so when reassembling the gauge cluster the wires/wire tabs do not get bent. Picture of gauge cluster and gauge bezel put together with new cut outs: 7. Gently put new gauges over existing gauges. You may have to move the needles a little bit (do NOT remove needles) in order to slide the new gauges over the existing gauges. Do not worry about getting the gauges perfectly lined up yet, you can fine tune them once the gauge bezel/overlay is ready to put on. 8. Reattach the gauge bezel/overlay. This is a pic of the wire/wiretabs coming through the cut outs: 9. Place the gauges and guage bezel/overlay (which should now be attached) back into the gauge "cavity" and reinstall the the 3 wiring connections in the back. Now it is time to line up the guages. The easiest way to do this is to have the door open so that it is easy to line of the temp guage (that is where the "door open" indicator light is at), the parking brake on (that is where the "brake" indicator light is at), and if you have the fuel low you can fully adjust the fuel gauge properly (because the low fuel light will be on). Slightly unclip the gauge bezel/overlay so that you can move the new gauges into the exact location. 10. Reattach the clear plastic gauge cover. 11. Connect the three wires that come out of the gauge cluster into the three connectors on the invertor box (the little black box that supplies the power to the gauges). Now connect the black and red wire (coming out of the black box) into any power supply behind the dash. NOTE- I spliced right into the dimmer control switch in order to supply power to the guages, you may be able to splice into different locations, depending on what you prefer. I then taped the connections up with some black electrical tape. Make sure to run all of the wires behind the gauge cluster so they do not get squished on the top or side when reinstalling the gauge cluster. 12. Make sure that the guages work (because mine are the 2-color indiglos and not the reverse indiglos I had to do this in the garage, you may not have to be in a garage with the Reverse indiglos). 13. Reattach the gauge cluster into the gauge "cavity." 14. Tape/tiewire the black power supply box somewhere behind the change drawer near the fuse box. NOTE-I purchased the 6 color digital inverter which comes with a color switch pad and not the two color knob thing. I found a setting I liked and just left the color switch pad hanging behind the change drawer/compartment. 15. Reattach the dash (including the wire connectors for the dimmer switch, hazard lights, and clock). NOTE-I did NOT reconnect the wire connector for the dimmer switch. This is because with the 2-color indiglos if the dimmer switch is not all the way on the gauges "pulse/flicker" on the brightest settings. This will result in a loss of the lights on the CD player, the HVAC controls, and the odometer (I actually don't mind and think it looks better without all the lights at night, considering I know where the buttons are located). I might be able to solve this in the future if I wire up the gauges to a different power supply. Total install time: 2 hours (If I had to do it again it would only take 30 minutes though, I couldn't find where to splice the power into).

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