OEM Heated Seats Install - Submitted by TagsToy
This help sheet will explain how to install OEM Heated Seats in a 2006 Hyundai Elantra GT (should be similar for all 2001-2006 Elantras).
OEM Part Numbers
The part numbers listed below are for the Hyundai Avante XD (Korean equivalent of the Elantra). To the best of my knowledge, these parts will have to be purchased from a Korean Hyundai dealer or a KDM part dealer (Dreamka4u).
#84653 2D500AX - "Tray-Console Upr"
#84654 2D500 - "Rubber-Console Upr Tray"
#93311 2D100 - "Plate-Console Switch"
#93330 2D100AX - "Switch Assy - Fr Seat Heated LH"
#93340 2D100AX - "Switch Assy - Fr Seat Heated LH"
#93240 2D100AX - "Switch Assy - Ect"
#95530 2D010AX - "Jack Assy - Hands Free"
#????? ????? - "Heated Seat Pads"
#????? ????? - "Heated Seat Wiring Harness"
NOTE: The Heated Seat Pads, and their respective wiring harness, were the only two items that did not have part numbers associated with them. They were wrapped individually in "Hyundai Genuine Parts" plastic, but were void of any bar codes or product markings.
Materials and Tools needed:
Ratchet and 3" Extension
10mm and 14mm sockets
Philips screwdriver
Very small flathead screwdriver
Two pairs of needle-nose pliers
Wire strippers
10' 14 gauge stranded wire (red)
10' 14 gauge stranded wire (black)
14 gauge butt connectors
Electrical tape
Heat-shrink tubing
20' flex-loom tubing
One (1) ATG fuse tap
Procedure (seats)
1. With a 14mm ratchet, unbolt all four seat corners. The rear two bolts have a plastic cover over them. They should be able to be removed by simply popping them off with your fingers.
2. Rock the seat back and examine the various electrical connections.
Some of these are easier to disconnect than others. Use the very small flathead screwdriver and TAKE YOUR TIME. One of these connections is spring loaded, but with careful prying, it will also disconnect.
3. Assuming nothing was broken the inside should look something like this:
4. Put the seat on its side:
Remove the necessary screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Don't forget about the one under the adjustment lever.
5. Flip the seat over, and with a quick pull, unsnap the bottom half of the plastic seat back and light it off.
6. This should reveal the black felt material that covers the joint between the two seat cushions. It is connected with three clips. Simply unclip it with your hands and remove it:
7. Starting the upper seat cushion, unclip the long plastic clips holding the upholstery to the seat and fold the material back:
NOTE: The section by the airbag is tricky because instead of a clip, there is a break-away material that is secured with two hog rings. Carefully unbend these rings, and then fold the material back:
8. Do the same thing for the lower cushion. Only this time, you will only have to unclip the three pieces at the rear of the cushion (do not worry about the entire cover):
9. The upper seat upholstery is attached with velcro. Carefully peel it back:
10. The lower seat upholstery is attached with hog rings:
The three at the base of the seat cushion (shown above) can be easily unbent with two pairs of needle-nose pliers. There are also a total of three more hog rings in the middle. Cut and remove the first two (this will be necessary to slide the heating pad into place).
11. Peel back the adhesive and stick the heated seat pads to the seat cushion so they look something like this when underneath the upholstery:
The upper cushion is significantly easier to do compared to the lower cushion, but again, just take your time and it all will turn out great. If you have small hands it will certainly be a little easier.
12. After the pads are installed, run the connection wires through the cushion and to the back of the seat. The upper pad has two connections. The shorter one goes to the lower cushion. The longer one will go to the wiring harness.
13. Following the opposite of the instructions above, reattach the seat upholstery and all of the plastic trim pieces. Be sure to leave the longer wiring connection accessible (but hidden behind the black felt).
Procedure (console)
Follow these steps to change the center console.
1.Unscrew the shift knob by spinning it counter clockwise. For an automatic transmission unscrew the two screws that hold on he shift knob and pull up to remove. Be careful to hold the button on the shifter and do not loose the spring.
With a Phillips screwdriver remove the six screws holding the console in place (three per side).
2. Pull the emergency brake handle all the way back and carefully lift up and remove the center console.
3. Get the OEM Hyundai parts. Install the rubber pad in the base of the tray. Install the switches in the console switch plate. Screw the switch plate to the underside of the tray.
4. With a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the original tray and replace it with the new one.
5. Installation of the console is the reverse of the removal. Do not do it yet! There is still electrical work that needs to be completed.
Procedure (electrical)
1. Remove the drawer cover of the interior fuse box. Note the location of the OEM heated seat fuse.
2. Carefully pop off the side of the dashboard panel.
3. Using a 10mm ratchet remove the two bolts at the bottom of the dash panel and carefully pry it off (held by four clips).
NOTE: There are a total of four (4) Phillips screws holding the hood hatch and diagnostic port to this panel. These will also need to be removed.
4. Using a 10mm ratchet remove the four bolts that are attaching the steel shroud. This is not necessary, but it makes running the wires much easier.
5. With everything now exposed encase the seat harness end in the flex loom and run it under the carpet alongside of the other electrical connections.
At this point it is important to note that there is a distinct RIGHT and LEFT side to the wiring harness (the larger switch connection is for the LEFT). Examine the wire colors and make sure you run the correct seat harness end of the correct seat.
6. There are two white wires, along with a grouping of four colored wires (green, blue, yellow, and brown) that are free. Bundle all of these wires together and encase them in flex loom. Encase the switch harness end in flex loom and tape everything together as show below.
7. Take the flex loom containing the six free wires and run this up towards the gas and brake pedals.
8. The longer white wire is the ground. Butt this to the 14 gauge black wire and seal it with heat-shrink tubing. The shorter white wire and the remaining four color wires are all 12V power. Butt them together to the 14 gauge red wire and seal it with heat-shrink tubing.
9. Stuff everything into the flex loom leaving enough wire to work with at the end. Get the ATG fuse tap and put the equivalent of 20amp fuses in it (1X20, 2X10, etc).
10. Connect the ATG fuse tap to the 12V power wire and run everything up to the fuse box. Once of the 10mm bolts for the steel shroud can be used as a ground.
11. The dash assembly is the reverse of disassembly. If you followed all of the steps the finished product should look something like this:
Ideally, it would be nice to use the 20amp fuse/wire that is already in the fuse box, but I was unable to locate the correct wire(s). If you are more successful please update these instructions. Otherwise, this method does use the OEM fuse, just not the OEM wiring.
12. Lastly, reinstall the seats (and center console) and reconnect all of the wiring harnesses (including the two new ones that were just added).
Finished Pictures:
Before:
After
Click here to discuss this Do It Yourself Guide.
Click here to Return to the Forum · Click here to return to DIY Main Page