Gauge Pin 1 -> ECM #6 (White with black dashes)
Gauge Pin 7 -> ECM #7 (Brown)
Gauge Pin 5 -> ECM #75 (Blue)

Gauge Pin 4 -> Speedometer, Connector M09-1 #15(grey/orange)

Gauge Pin 3 -> Audio M16 #7 (Yellow)
Gauge Pin 6 -> Audio M16 #16 (Red)
Gauge Pin 9 -> Audio M16 #15 (Pink)
Gauge Pin 10 -> Audio M16 #6 (Grey)
Gauge Pin 12 -> Audio M16 #8 (Black)

NOTE: On my (SuperGLS) 2002 Elantra GLS the colors mentioned above were correct but the pin numbers on the audio M16 (headunit wiring harness) were incorrect. I do not recall if they were mirrored or reversed, but they are different. More importantly, the colors are correct.

If you're interested in details, 1 and 7 are used to calculate torque. 2,8, and 11 have no use. 3 checks for ignition, 4 is speed, 5 is fuel consumption, 6 is Battery (+), 9 detects that the lights are on, 10, the lights are off. 12 is Battery (-), i.e. ground.

3,6,9,10,12 can be run from the cd player wire harness. 4 runs to the back of the speedometer, and the remaining three run to the ECM. THIS IS WHERE I STRESS THAT THIS IS ABOUT THE XD GLS, NOT THE GT, NOR THE XD2 MODELS. I have a 2001 GLS, that is what I installed on, that is what I know.

That information alone is enough to install the gauge, and is probably the most important information on this page. The rest of this is pretty wordy, and if it confuses you at all, just stick to what's above here. That's what's important.

I am assuming that if you bought this gauge, you also bought this wire harness from CWB1973@aol.com, I did and it arrived very quickly, and worked like a charm. Here's a picture of mine, pre-installation, on my passenger seat, so you know what I'm talking about if this DIY outlasts the NewTiburon.com forum archive.

If you do not have this harness, Tiburons produced after 08/2004 apparently come with a 12-pin plug that fits perfectly in the harness. I don't know the connector number or part number, however, that's up to you.

First thing you'll want to do is attach longer wires to this harness. I used your everyday braided & insulated copper wire, and electrical tape. Obviously, you'll want a lot of wire for the wires running from pins 1, 7 & 5, as they will need to reach the ECU, located just above your clutch pedal (or where it would be if you had a clutch pedal.) You'll need some extra length to run pin 4's wire to the speedometer, as well, but for the rest of them, they only had to reach the wires connected to the stereo just below, so I personally did not add any extensions.

Next thing you probably should do is figure out where you're going to put your gauges, because this determines what you're going to do with your gauge's mounting brackets. These may seem initially confusing, because the one marked RH actually goes on the left, and the LH one goes on the right. If you have a normal Hyundai stock CD/Cassette player, the brackets work very well when you have your stereo below the gauges. My CD player was a Hyundai/Clarion OEM from a 2002 Canadian Tiburon, and had different mounting holes, so I had to take a hacksaw to the brackets.

So now you have your brackets and your wires. The first thing to hook up will naturally be the wires that run to your stereo. Before we get into that, I have had the strange experience of all the pin numbers that were posted by sammy21c being mirrored on my actual equipment - in other words, if there was a 4-pin connector, and I was to run a wire to pin four, on my connector, the actual wire was in pin one. The recurrence of this problem, coupled with the backwards brackets, drove me nuts. Still, other people seemed to do alright with the provied information, so I'll leave it as is, but make sure you check the wire color -as well as- the wire number you'll be tapping into.

Obviously, remove your dash fascia. Take out your stereo, and start splicing wires. I did this in a very rigged fashion, using a razor to strip plastic off the stereo wires, wrapping the wires coming off of the gauges onto the stripped wire, then securing them together with electrical tape. You can use T-Taps if you're going to be professional about it.

That was the easy part. Now, if you're moving your stereo down one, you have to move the rear support bracket. This is no simple task. The screws holding this piece of metal in there are in TIGHT. I used a screwdriver in conjunction with a wrench to get enough torque to get the screws out, but even that wasn't enough to get them all the way back in when I put it in it's new home. This doesn't matter much, as long as they're held into place. Make sure that when you do this, there are no children around, as it really works a lot better when you curse at the bloody screws. Have fun.

Once you have spliced into your stereo's wiring harness, you should be able to get some initial results - when your car is on, you should be able to read voltage, and the gauge's lights will turn on when you have your lights on. If neither of these happen to work, then it's time to bust out your voltimeter and make sure you're tapped into the correct wires.

The next thing I did was the speedometer connection. You can do this without electrical tape, if you so choose. You need your wire to run to pin 15 (which appears on my speedometer to be pin 16.) Ignore the pin number. Look at the two Xs in the picture on the right.

If you don't want to solder or use electrical tape, strip the end of your wire off a bit, unscrew the screw in the picture a little bit, wrap the wire around the screw, and tighten the screw. Your connection is made. If you're not comfortable with that, use a t-tap or, my cheapo method, a razor and some electrical tape, to splice into the wire that connects with the other bit of copper marked with an X. You're halfway to getting a running mileage gauge now.

The next bit is going to require some flexibility. Being that you have a GLS and not a GT, You have to tap into a wire on the ECU... and it's in the middle of a clump of about 80 wires. Just past you clutch pedal. If you don't already know where your ECU is, sit on your seat upside down, with your knees bending over the top of the seat, and your head crammed in the corner between the clutch pedal and the footrest. Look up. You should see this:

This is the ECU, where you'll be getting torque and fuel consumption readings for your gauges. I have discovered that you don't need to take the harness out of its plug, and can do all your work simply by removing the cover. We'll get the hard one out of the way, being the wire running to pin 75. First thing's first, slide off that cover. It might be wire-tied onto your bundle of wires, but don't let that stop your handy friend, the razor blade. It's a little akward down there, I don't remember which way is up, so I'll just tell you that looking at the above picture, you'll be sliding that top cover down. This will reveal the multicolored nerve center of your car. You are going to have to get to the middle of the far end of that sucker, and count back seven pins/wires. Also get a head start on where you'll be plugging the torque into, which looking at the above picture, will be the bottom-right side of the ECU. Using that information, and the following graphic, determine which wire goes into pin 75, and splice into that sucker.

Once you've done that, turn on your car and go for a spin around the block. (If your dash is off, your blinkers and dashboard lights aren't going to work, so use good judgement) Your fuel meter should be working now. Good job! Hardest part's over.

On my car, there were no existing wires there, so I'm going to assume you too will need to cram a couple of wires into pins 6 and 7. Hyunelan2 notes that on his 2002 GLS, pin 6 has a red wire and pin 7 has a white wire running into them. In that case, you will splice into those wires. Otherwise, make sure you have at least 3/4 of an inch (~1.7cm?) of bare wire to cram, because it's a long way down/up to that pin. Shove those wires in, and secure them, and you should get a torque reading.

I didn't actually replace the cover to my ECU, I instead kind of went nuts on the electrical tape, because every time I replaced the cover, it pulled out my torque wires.

When putting everything back together, you'll find that if your stereo is on the bottom, its brackets won't fit so nicely. Hacksaws, razors, and other horror movie implements are an easy, sloppy solution to this problem, but if you have a smoother method to your destruction, by all means, go for it. The brackets on the gauges will kind of snap into place as you put the screws into them, and that will help hold the stereo below in place as well. I actually didn't replace the screws in the brackets on my stereo, as it's held in place alright by the gauge's brackets. If you want to put the screws back in, you'll have to drill new holes for them.

Thanks to sammy21c, who spent eight hours on the first installation of one of these things, and figured out all the wiring connections. Thanks also to Hyunelan2, who pointed out differences between the GT and GLS wiring, and posted the ECM harness wiring diagram, and dealt with a number of issues while figuring out the installation. I stole some pictures from SuperGLS, and 04Elantra helped me troubleshoot the fuel mileage gauge. Good luck on your installation!