Tiburon Ultrasport Struts and Eibach Springs Install - Submitted by shadow5606 Tools needed: Impact wrench Impact sockets for wrench Spring compressor Several size sockets and rachets Jack stands Hammer Screwdriver Zip tie (or something else maybe... this is for securing the speed sensor) Access to the Hyundai tech website, a shop manual or a Haynes manual for torque specs (not absolutely required but highly reccomended) Front: 1. First jack up the car and remove the wheel that you want to begin with. We started with the front left. 2. We started here with the bolts on the strut knuckle. To remove these bolts you'll start to back the nut off with an impact wrench and then you'll reach around and hold the bolt itself with a rachet. 3. Now we'll remove the brake lines. These are easy to remove and there is no need to disconnect the brake lines. Just use your rachet to back out this little bolt and you're home free. 4. Once both these strut knuckle bolts & the brake line is removed you can bring your attention up top. You'll want to remove all three of these bolts on the top of the strut assembly. No impact wrench needed or desired here, just back them out with your rachet. If possible, have someone hold the stut itself up to keep the weight off the nuts so you can remove them easily with your hands. 5. Now the strut is free. With the strut off you'll pry this little cap off the top with a flat head screwdriver. 6. Next we want to get out our spring compressors and attach them to the springs. I HIGHLY reccomend doing this with an impact wrench or you will be doing this for a while. If you're using a spring compressor like the one pictured you'll want to do each side a little at a time so you can compress each side of the spring evenly. Also, as you do this just keep an eye on the spring compressors so that one dosen't "walk" around the spring and end up on the other side. When compressing the springs you'll want to get all the tension off the camber plate on the top. WARNING: If you fail to relieve the tension on the camber plate, the next step will cause the camber plate and or the nut to fly off and possibly injure you. Theres is nothing dangerous about this if you have all the pressue off the upper and lower perch. 7. Now that the spring is fully compressed we'll take our impact wrench and remove the nut at the top of the camber plate. Then just pull off the camber plate and nut, set them aside somewhere. Remove the compressed spring and remove the rubber liner in the lower perch if you need a liner for your new strut. You may not need to re-use this liner depending on the stuts you're putting in. Now just reverse the spring compressor evenly to release the tension and remove the spring compressor. Now attach the spring compressor to your new spring and tighten it down so it will be ready to go on your new strut. Line the spring up so it fits properly in the cutout of the lower perch and as long as you have the spring compressed enough you'll be able to slip the camber plate right on. The camber plate has one flat side as does the top threaded end of the strut. Line these up to put the camber plate back on. 8. We used our impact wrench to reinstall the top nut on the camber plate (don't forget the spacer you took out that goes between the nut and the camber plate!!) Finally we remove the spring compressor evenly like we did before and the end of this step you officially have a complete strut assebly thats ready to go back in the car. 9. Installation is the same as removal, push the threaded bots back up through into the engine bay & put the three nuts back on around the top, then put the two bolts back through the kunckle down below. (we used our impact wrench to reinstall the bolts in the knuckle but there is a torque spec for this found on Hyundai Webtech.) Don't forget to attach the brake line again and you'll be all done on this side. On the right front everything is the same as what we just did except now we have a speed sensor attached to the strut. This speed sensor is easy to take off with a rachet but when we put in the new strut we had to get creative in attaching it to the new strut. On the Tiburon ultrasport strut there's no point to bolt directly to so we just used a zip-tie to fasten the line to the strut. Rear: When it comes time to do the rear struts/springs most of the process is the same but to get access to the top of the strut you do need to remove the side collumn of your rear seats. This can be done without removing the whole backseat but using an extension on your rachet to get to the bolt that holds the bottom of the column. Once this bolt is out you just slide the whole collumn up so it will slip out of the hook that holds it into place. Putting it back in place is the just the reverse, you press the collum in place a little higer than where it sits and then slide it down into the hook and put the bolt back in place. Here's a picture of the top of the rear strut that's hiding behind your seat column: The brake lines in the rear are seated in a bracket with a retaining clip on the strut itself Just use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock out the retaining clip. The sway bar is the only other connection in the back thats different from the front. Just pop this off with your rachet on the outside while holding the inner nut with a wrench and you're almost home free. At this point the rear struts are off and all other steps are just repeats of everything we've already covered. Click here to discuss this Do It Yourself Guide.

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