Using A Clay Bar For The First Time?..Read Here!

[f1guy68]

The first thing I will recommend is that you wash your vehicle well in a shady or covered area! Use the two bucket method. One bucket with your car wash solution, the other bucket with just plain clean water. Use a genuine sheepskin or wool wash mitt and try not to use a sponge! Sponges trap dirt at the surface where as the wool mitts will hold the dirt up and out of the way!

So...rinse your mitt in the plain water bucket and squeeze the excess water out, now dip into your wash solution and wash a section of your car. Now dip your dirty wash mitt into the plain water to rinse the debris and then back into your wash solution! You get the drift of this by now I'm sure.

You do not need to dry as yet. Perhaps remove most of the standing water on the flat surfaces, but that's it for now.

After you have washed you can clay your car. I would suggest one of the two following kits that can be bought most anywhere automotive cleaning supplies are sold;

Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System - Comes with a Bottle Of Instant Detailer, A Yellow Clay Bar and a small bottle of Cleaner Wax.

Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit - Comes with a Bottle Of Quick Detailer and a White Clay Bar.

Have a few soft clean 100% cotton terry towels or micro fiber towels ready as well for wiping up.

In both cases the Instant or Quick Detailer will act as your lubricant for the clay bar! Clay is a soft mailable substance that will effectively and safely remove contamination such as rail dust, Industrial fallout etc. from your paint, glass, plastics etc. when used in a safe and as directed manner as below.

Here we go...

Break your clay bar into two equal pieces. This way if you drop a piece of clay you have another to use! If you drop the clay..THROW IT AWAY! Do not use it.

Mold the clay in your hand to soften it and then mold it flat but not too flat between your palms. Spray a section of your hood (let's say a 1/4 of the hood) liberally with the Instant Detailer. LUBRICATION IS THE KEY! Use plenty of lube. Now pass the clay over the lubricated section using linear (back to forth) motion and LIGHT pressure to begin. Use a little more pressure as you understand a feel the action of the clay bar. You will feel and possibly hear the contamination being pulled from your paint up into the clay. It will feel rough at first, DO NOT PANIC and then it will smooth right out! When the feeling goes smooth and the clay bar passes over the section with ease, it's safe to assume that that area in now clean of debris. Look at the clay...filthy right?? Good..it's working. Wipe that area dry and thoroughly with a quality micro fiber towel or a 100% cotton soft terry towel.

It can be a little messy and runny but it wipes up very easily and will not stain your car or trim etc. If you do a nice job wiping up, it will save you the extra effort of having to re-wash the car or re-do the whole car with just the instant detailer and clean towel again!

Now run your hand over that section..it should be as smooth as glass and very shiny just by virtue of clean paint.

Now..turn the dirty side of the clay over to expose a cleaner side of clay. Don't worry, the dirt will turn in and be suspended high enough in the clay to let you work safely.

Spray another section of the hood and follow the same routine as above. Again..I cannot stress the importance of LOTS OF LUBE! If the clay feels like it is sticking to the paint, then you need more lubrication. After each area is complete, wipe it dry. You can do the same for your windows as well and even your trim.

I would suggest you do the whole car this time around! This way you have totally clean paint and a fresh "canvas". If you feel your clay is getting too dirty to use, then use the 2nd half that you broke off and set aside! My experience tells me that you should get by doing the whole car with 1/2 a bar, but use your good common sense and switch to a clean piece if you feel the need.

And YES..it might sound as though you are scratching your paint with the clay bar, but I say again..that with lots of lube and even pressure you will not be at risk.

Now...stand back and marvel at the results you just achieved with a simple piece of clay! You will probably not even feel the need to wax the car because the instant detailer will leave a great shine providing you did a nice job of wiping up after yourself. But you will wax...because I said so....lol

From this point on, you can follow up with the wax of your choice if you wish! Keep in mind that a clay bar will have removed any wax you had on your paint as well!

You do not need to clay every time you clean your car! I would think that once a year is fine.

Geez...have I forgotten anything??? I don't think so! If you have any questions ask away! I would be more than happy to help!

Have Fun

[sed]

sticky sticky cha cha cha!

great write up man!

-shawn

[Gun5]

oh man i was just gonna post asking about this... hey should I claybar the back of my car it was just redone 50-60 days ago I waxed it last night but the front half of the car is rough as hell nowhere near smooth

[f1guy68]

oh man i was just gonna post asking about this... hey should I claybar the back of my car it was just redone 50-60 days ago I waxed it last night but the front half of the car is rough as hell nowhere near smooth


I would leave the back for another 30 days or so, just be sure the paint has cured.

Does the back even feel rough??

Go ahead and clay the rest of the car anyway! You can always follow up the rest later if needed.

[Gun5]

I would leave the back for another 30 days or so, just be sure the paint has cured.

Does the back even feel rough??

Go ahead and clay the rest of the car anyway! You can always follow up the rest later if needed.

no back is smooth, therse a few places where itw as rough (tree stuff) I used 3M rubbing compound + polish on that

[rckozma]

sticky sticky cha cha cha!

great write up man!

-shawn

Done and done.

[f1guy68]

sticky sticky cha cha cha!

great write up man!

-shawn

Thanks! ;)

no back is smooth, therse a few places where itw as rough (tree stuff) I used 3M rubbing compound + polish on that

Well then...since you have already taken the compound and polish to the back of the car you might as well clay it as well if you are going to do it.

Clay is not abrasive like a compound is, so it's entirely safe!

When you say the car was redone..you did mean painted right??

[Gun5]

Thanks! ;)



Well then...since you have already taken the compound and polish to the back of the car you might as well clay it as well if you are going to do it.

Clay is not abrasive like a compound is, so it's entirely safe!

When you say the car was redone..you did mean painted right??

new bumper/new trunklid and clearcoated rear quater panels

[cclngthr]

I would have waited to wax it because the typical paint job needs 90 days to fully cure.

[Mr. Dan]

I did the clay bar thing and I got all kinds of little scratches on the paint. Mind you I had two years of grit bonded to the paint. With a good coat of wax you can hardly tell, but if you have lots of stuff stuck on your paint, even if you're super careful some of that will stick in the bar.

[Gun5]

I would have waited to wax it because the typical paint job needs 90 days to fully cure.

it sits in 110 degree heat m8 everyday for atleast 10-12 hours, plus the paint has a 5-year warrenty if it starts to **** up :bowdown:

[cclngthr]

it sits in 110 degree heat m8 everyday for atleast 10-12 hours, plus the paint has a 5-year warrenty if it starts to **** up :bowdown:

That doesn't matter. It depends on the thickness of the paint applied. Usually, shops shoot 2-3 coats of primer, a coat of sealer, 3-5 coats of base and 3 of clear. All of this has to dry and it takes some time for all of it to harden up, even when they bake it.

When I paint a car, I usually seal the surface and put about 6 coats of primer in 2 steps, which I shoot 3 coats, block the panel and shoot 3 more, then lightly block that (leaving about 3-4 coats of primer), then bake that, and shoot on my color/base in the same format, but I usually put on 7 coats total, and leave 4 after blocking that and shoot 7-8 coats of clear and leaving about 4-5 coats after finishing the job. That is a total of about 12 coats of finish all together. Of course, this is baked in 3 stages.

When I did this car:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/482000-482999/482847_29_full.jpg
I did start from scratch on the damaged area and ended up with this:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/482000-482999/482847_36_full.jpg

The paint is still soft yet and it has been a month.

[f1guy68]

I did the clay bar thing and I got all kinds of little scratches on the paint. Mind you I had two years of grit bonded to the paint. With a good coat of wax you can hardly tell, but if you have lots of stuff stuck on your paint, even if you're super careful some of that will stick in the bar.


Mr. Dan,

It's not just about the amount of time that the grit was bonded into the paint. The key with clay is lots of lubrication and turning the clay often to expose a clean side. I break the clay into several pieces so I have new pieces to use should the need arise. I agree that over use of clay will result in contaminents staying at the surface, so like anything you have to use caution and the rules of LUBE LUBE LUBE..and TURN THE CLAY OFTEN!

I have clayed some pretty "violent" cars...lol No prob's, but I did take extra precautions!

Wish you had had a better experience! :(

Maybe next time if there is a next time :confused:

[SilverBullet]

So if I am understanding correctly it goes something like this:

Wash>>>Clay>>>Wash>>>Polish/Clean>>>Wax for a complete detailing job.

Is this even remotely right?

[f1guy68]

So if I am understanding correctly it goes something like this:

Wash>>>Clay>>>Wash>>>Polish/Clean>>>Wax for a complete detailing job.

Is this even remotely right?

If you use the lubricant that comes in the clay bar package, you could probably skip the second wash (I DO) as the lubricant is also a quick detailer which wipes up easy and leaves a nice shine as well. You just spray a section of the car (Again..Lot's Of Lube), use the clay bar and then easily wipe up the left over lubricant right after each section has been done. The lubricant will run all over the place, but that's OK..as I said it wipes up very easily.

So if you use the above method..it's wash, rinse, dry (or remove most standing water), clay, polish, wax!

The second option is to wash the car once, then get a fresh bucket of water and soap (more soap this time for extra lubricity) and clay using the soapy water and then rinse, dry etc.

So, if you use the above method..it's wash, rinse, wash again and clay, rinse dry, polish, wax!

Some people clay while they do the first wash. :eek: I'm not a big fan of this method, especially if the car is more dirty than dusty. I fear the debris will trap in the clay and cause some scratches or cobwebs etc.

In my professional opinion, best to go with my first suggestion.

[Gun5]

That doesn't matter. It depends on the thickness of the paint applied. Usually, shops shoot 2-3 coats of primer, a coat of sealer, 3-5 coats of base and 3 of clear. All of this has to dry and it takes some time for all of it to harden up, even when they bake it.

When I paint a car, I usually seal the surface and put about 6 coats of primer in 2 steps, which I shoot 3 coats, block the panel and shoot 3 more, then lightly block that (leaving about 3-4 coats of primer), then bake that, and shoot on my color/base in the same format, but I usually put on 7 coats total, and leave 4 after blocking that and shoot 7-8 coats of clear and leaving about 4-5 coats after finishing the job. That is a total of about 12 coats of finish all together. Of course, this is baked in 3 stages.

When I did this car:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/482000-482999/482847_29_full.jpg
I did start from scratch on the damaged area and ended up with this:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/482000-482999/482847_36_full.jpg

The paint is still soft yet and it has been a month.

well its been 2-3 months for the bumper and 1-2 for the trunk

[cclngthr]

well its been 2-3 months for the bumper and 1-2 for the trunk

That is still soft. You can wax it at 3 months, but the more layers of paint, it takes longer to cure. The thinners in the paint will make it like that. The catalyst used to harden the paint is supposed to react and dry out the thinners, but even when baking it, the amount of thinner is more than the catalyst.

You shouldn't have to clay a new paint job if it is shot on and finished correctly. However, a lot of shops just shoot on the paint and not finish it by colorsanding it (they don't apply enough paint to do this anyway). Sure, it is possible to get a clean surface without orange peel with the right temperature reducers, but there is some overspray on the new paint that feels rough (usually on the edges and the middle of a panel if the painter had to swich sides). That can be removed at the shop very easily. However, if the shop does not finish it, I personally would wait at least 6 months because it would be easier to scratch the surface before that time period (to allow the paint to cure) before working with it with a clay bar. The top layer would be hard, but under it would still be soft.

I know F1 did a repainted car a couple years ago that had a lot of defects that he got out a couple years ago. Can't find the pics.

[f1guy68]

I know F1 did a repainted car a couple years ago that had a lot of defects that he got out a couple years ago. Can't find the pics.

Was that the Red BMW or the Red Alfa Romeo?? I seem to think you are thinking of one of the two?

Lemme know if you remember..I could post some pictures!

[cclngthr]

Was that the Red BMW or the Red Alfa Romeo?? I seem to think you are thinking of one of the two?

Lemme know if you remember..I could post some pictures!

You posted it on Elantraclub a while back. It was painted red about a year before you detailed it, and you mentioned it was quite contaminated even after being stored for a year. I think it was the Alfa Romeo.

[f1guy68]

I think you are right? That one was pretty rough for a new paint job.

If I have some time later tonight I will dig up pictures of both the BMW and the Alfa..as both were demanding and the final results were much better.

:cool:

[cclngthr]

It was this car:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/800cid_000301c47079_89504770_0200a8c0_colinq60jr0n c0.jpg

[f1guy68]

Yes..That is the Alfa Romeo!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/800tn_109-0994_IMG-med.JPG

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/800tn_109-0997_IMG-med.JPG

Thanks ;-)

[cclngthr]

For a repaint (single stage) that did turn out decent after a detail; probably the body shop did not do that, as I would have. I hate it when shops do a half assed job and call it good, and the owner has to pay more to get it done right.

[f1guy68]

For a repaint (single stage) that did turn out decent after a detail; probably the body shop did not do that, as I would have. I hate it when shops do a half assed job and call it good, and the owner has to pay more to get it done right.

Thanks!

It was a difficult car to do, moreso on the top surfaces as they left a lot of sanding marks and overspray. :(

The sides were more forgiving. :)

I told the owner to take it back to them, but he feared they would mess it up more, so he asked me to correct it.

[cclngthr]

The top of the car (roof, deck lid and hood) are notorious for overspray and excess marks that get imbedded into the wet paint. Part of the problem is the difficulty in painting them. It is hard to reach everything in 1 position. Most painters begin in the middle and go outward then switch sides; which the middle part is dry by the time they switch sides. The painting environment also has a factor. If the booth is not airtight (no breeze), you get tons of overspray and drying can be spotty. I like to start on 1 side and work to the other side, which the wet part of the paint will blend in much easier when I move over to the other side. A third part is the temperature of the room and what temp reducer you are using (they are categorized in specific temperatures). I usually use a reducer that is rated about 10 degrees hotter than the room temperature. It drys slower, but it lays down smoother. Only issue is it will be easier to get runs.

[Gun5]

ok guys I got a question for ya, why do I keep getting tree sap like spots on my trunk... that can only be removed by using compound? what the **** i havnt parked under any trees this is pissing me off

[cclngthr]

Are there trees nearby? Sometimes sap can travel, although I haven't seen it travel very far.

[Gun5]

Are there trees nearby? Sometimes sap can travel, although I haven't seen it travel very far.

the trees are about 4-5 feet behind and 9-10 feet up over a fence...its not getting anywhere else on the car just top of the trunk lid, nothing will take it off but compound... should I use goo-b-gone on it i know it will work but i dont know if it will hurt it more/less then compound.....

[cclngthr]

I would not use compounds on it. An alcohol based solution or vinegar solution should remove them. (alcohol and water or vinegar and water) Since the trunk was repainted, you need to be very careful because you don't want to soften the paint. A bug/tar remover also can remove them as well, but I don't recommend you use that until the paint has fully cured.

[Gun5]

I would not use compounds on it. An alcohol based solution or vinegar solution should remove them. (alcohol and water or vinegar and water) Since the trunk was repainted, you need to be very careful because you don't want to soften the paint. A bug/tar remover also can remove them as well, but I don't recommend you use that until the paint has fully cured.

rubbing alcohol? and water m8? what do i use to scrub it aswell this is some tough **** like i said... also if i did **** up the paint with the compounds is there anyway I can tell? it all looks good to me looking it over....

[Gun5]

? :confused:

[cclngthr]

You should not scrub the paint, which will dull it. The compounds can remove the top layer of the paint and actually go down to the color, which will appear as a flat paint when the clear is not on it (the clear gives the paint the glossy look, the basecoat is a flat based paint). If you rub too much, the surface will appear duller than the surrounding area. The only thing you should use is a soft terry cloth or M/F rag. Also, when you rub down to the color, it will appear as there is a small valley in the panel, which is the paint.

[Gun5]

You should not scrub the paint, which will dull it. The compounds can remove the top layer of the paint and actually go down to the color, which will appear as a flat paint when the clear is not on it (the clear gives the paint the glossy look, the basecoat is a flat based paint). If you rub too much, the surface will appear duller than the surrounding area. The only thing you should use is a soft terry cloth or M/F rag. Also, when you rub down to the color, it will appear as there is a small valley in the panel, which is the paint.

alright, ya i got M/F rags and terry's now use rubbing alcohol.. after I wash it i imagine? and I havnt noticed any places where its worn down its still glossy

[cclngthr]

After a wash, use the alcohol/water mix. This should remove them. Rewash the car and wax it, because the alcohol will remove the wax.

[Gun5]

After a wash, use the alcohol/water mix. This should remove them. Rewash the car and wax it, because the alcohol will remove the wax.

i'll do that soon bro, now also if i leave that stuff on for awhile will it get stuck onto the paint? (sitting in the head ofcourse) - I got a place on my hood i had to have the body shop sand down alittle and reclear because some treesap

[cclngthr]

You should wash the car at least every week to every other week at the very least.

[clevelantran]

I think it's great advice to start claying on the trunk lid and other parts less dirty and then move on to the rest. I guess it would be allright to use the 'dirty' clay on wheels and windows instead of chucking after it's gotten dirty

I've used Maguiar's ClayBar Kit and was amazed at the gunk it found after a wash. My daughter is an artist, and they have many clays they use in their work. Those 'art' clays are a lot less expensive then the kit bars in my local
Murray's Auto Parts store.

Anybody know if art clay will is ok to detail with? :confused:

[menallychllngd]

i love mothers

[korai9989]

Has anybody tried using a sealant as the last step of your detailing instead of wax?

Try it! You'll really like the results, trust me!

[st_anger5532]

when i get around to claying my car im going to try using sealent if i can figure out what kind i want. anny suggestions

[f1guy68]

I think it's great advice to start claying on the trunk lid and other parts less dirty and then move on to the rest. I guess it would be allright to use the 'dirty' clay on wheels and windows instead of chucking after it's gotten dirty

I've used Maguiar's ClayBar Kit and was amazed at the gunk it found after a wash. My daughter is an artist, and they have many clays they use in their work. Those 'art' clays are a lot less expensive then the kit bars in my local
Murray's Auto Parts store.

Anybody know if art clay will is ok to detail with? :confused:

OMG...I know the answer to this is very late! How I overlooked this question is beyond me :confused:

And even then, I don't really have an immediate answer. I will check the clays they have at an artist store near me, and see if I think they would be suitable. My gut instinct is NO, but I'll see what I can find out about them!

Also..dirty clay is not something I would want to use on anything that could show scratches or marring! I would just chuck it out, and grab a fresh smaller piece for the wheels and another small piece for the windows! Put each piece in baggy and write on the baggy so you know which piece is for which.

when i get around to claying my car im going to try using sealent if i can figure out what kind i want. anny suggestions

Are you looking for a product you can buy off the shelf? Or would you be willing to place an internet order for something better than most consumer products, without being much more in price.

My suggestions will depend on your answer...lol

[Fishslayer]

Wow! Great info on this site. Just waxed last month & was disturbed at the... hard to describe... well, "rough" texture, even though the paint appeared slick & shiny.

So now I know how to deal with it. I had never heard of "claying" a car.

BTW, the paint on my gray Y2K Elantra is still in great shape, where it isn't crunched (hit & run @ 6 months old :( ) scraped (my bad!) or dinged (dam parking lots!)



Thanks for the info! :D


Fishslayer

[jennmary]

Ok I am kind of new, and this might seem like a dumb question.
My car has something going on that I am wondering if this whole clay thing could take care of. I noticed my back windows primarily have this almost crystaline spattering on them. I reminds me of salt, in appearance and texture. I was at the pump today and started scraping at it with my atm card while I waited for the gas to pump. It chipped the card! I assume that if it is on my window then it is likely on my paint too. Do you think the clay bar could take this off? if not...any suggestions?