Possible new amp

[Mikey7047]

What do you guys think of this amp? Also, wondering if I am able to switch to between 4,2 and 1 ohm...because I never could figure that out myself?

http://www.cardomain.com/item/KENKAC9152D

Features:

o 1,800 Watts max power
o 500 Watts x 1 max (4 ohms) RMS
o 900 Watts x 1 (2 ohms) RMS
o 900 Watts x 1 (1 ohms) RMS
o Wired remote control to adjust boost level and frequency included
o Dual mono drive' configuration option (requires two KAC-9152D amplifiers & specialist knowledge!)
o Aluminium die-cast heat sink
o Detachable aluminium top cover
o All connections on one side for easy multi-amplifier installations
o Built-in Variable Low-pass Filter 50-200Hz (24dB/oct)
o Built-in Infrasonic Filter 15Hz/25Hz (18dB/oct) to cut unwanted ultra-low frequencies
o Kenwood logo triangle' design power indicator LED
o 1 ohm stable
o Gold plated RCA line input & line output terminals
o Speaker level input option. RCA line outputs
o Ultra Efficient Class D Circuitry
o MOSFET Power Supply
o 1 Ohm Stable
o Torroidal Noise Suppression Filter
o Copper EE Core Power Transformer
o Dual Secondary Capacitors
o Ground Isolation Input Circuit
o Detachable Aluminum Dress Plate & Top Panel Control
o Die-Cast Aluminum Heat Sink
o Variable (50 - 200 Hz) 18 dB / Octave Low-Pass Crossover
o Switchable (Off / 15 / 25 Hz) 18 dB / Octave Subsonic Filter
o Gold-Plated Preamp Inputs and Outputs
o High and Low Level Inputs
o 2 Ohms Mono Stable
o Red Triangle Power Indicator
o Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power and Speaker Terminals
o Remote Variable (0-18 dB) Bass Boost at 40-100 Hz
o Single-Side Terminal Placement for Cleaner Installation and Improved Wire Management

[paki]

i believe you can but its not like an actual switch.. it all depends on the way you wire the speaker wires coming from the amp going to the sub

[Mikey7047]

Getting a good deal on the amp...I'm getting it for $200 plus shipping so I figured I would ask around here first to see if it would be a good buy or not.

Now I just gotta find some good subs that won't blow when I hook them up to it :D

Maybe?

Volfenhag ZX-4710
Description
* 10" Sub Woofer
* Dual 4 Ohm
* 400 Watts RMS
* Mounting Depth: 145mm

Two of em of course

[jfreak921]

The load in ohms depends on your speakers. Switching can only be done by changing speakers. If you go DVC, you will have multiple configuration options. Good luck.

[Mikey7047]

Alright, I have levelled it to three different subs, hoping someone around here can give me some insight, I am definitely buying two subs so:

Volfenhag 10" Competition Subwoofer (http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-emotions/noname25.html)
Description
# 10" Sub Woofer
# Dual 4 Ohm
# 400 Watts RMS
# Mounting Depth: 145mm

Kenwood KFC-W2509 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NlTBmznU3b4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?I=113W2509)
# 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
# pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround
# overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance
# extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion
# power range: 35-350 watts RMS
# peak power: 700 watts
# frequency range: 28-800 Hz
# sensitivity: 91 dB
# top mount depth: 4-9/16"

Kenwood KFC-W3009 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JhztVWNGbbs/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?I=113W3009) (This is an option, but I already have the 10" boxes)
# 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
# pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone with urethane foam surround
# overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and dampened resonance
# extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone excursion
# power range: 35-400 watts RMS (800 watts peak power)
# frequency range: 25-800 Hz
# sensitivity: 93 dB
# top mount depth: 5-5/16"

[2loud2k2xd]

if you want max power from the amp to the subs, you will need (2) subs with dual4ohms. this way you can bring the ohm load down to 1 ohm for both of them. this way you get all the power available from the amp. the you will need to follow the subs directions for wiring it for a 1ohm load. then happy bumping, oh yah, dont forget to call the sub manufacturer about box sizes. and if the amp is "bridgable", bridge it. + from 1 channel, - from the other channel. it should say on the speaker input part on the amp, which ones to wire it for bridging.

[Mikey7047]

Damn so if I get the Volfenhag...they'll be....overpowered? I guess I can just turn the amp down right? I'll look up the box sizes on the internet and see how it compares to the ones I built.

[2loud2k2xd]

you will need to build a box for the subs...not how much room you have. it has to be biult to the subs because the box size is tuned to the subs. my box is tuned (built) at 40hz. plus you need to figure out if you going to run a sealed, ported, vented box. ported/vented boxes can handle alot more power than a sealed box. a sealed box talkes less power, but sounds a bit cleaner. but a PORTED/VENTED BOX WILL HIT ALOTY HARDER AND PUT UP BIGGER SPL NUMBERS. damn, hit the caps....sorry.

[kylemorg]

If you haven't bought the subs yet, get either of the Kenwood ones you list -- they're better made than the Volfenhag, from what I've heard (Volfenhag = German version of Jensen quality = mediocre).

DVC = Dual Voice Coil = 2 4-ohm coils, used singly as a 4 ohm coil, hooked up in parallel for 2 ohms, or serial for 8 ohms.

As 2loud2K2XD said, a ported box will be louder. However, it won't be as as accurate at pitch control for bass notes.

Overpowered is OK as long as you don't push the amp's gain too high. Having more power in the amp compared to the speaker rating is actually better than having too little power for dampening and such.

[Tibrai]

Simple formula but not the "be all end all"...2x8 ohm speakers in series=16 ohms. 2x8 ohm speakers in parallel=4 ohms. Rule of thumb is never draw more ohms from your speakers than comes from your amp..Good luck

[2loud2k2xd]

ill throw up a detailed link to audio stuff today after work. it has everything you WILL need to know, or want to know. ive posted the link a couple time on different threads. look for a thread started by gun5 about some audio a day or so ago. im at work and i dont know the link. check that out and it will answer all the questions you may have.

i found the link. read thru this throroughly. http://ccs.exl.info/frame_main.html

[ryan s-b]

i have the same volfenhag 10"... it was a fart factory which i bottomed out repeatedly. i await the day when i get bored and hook it up to the wall outlet!

Simple formula but not the "be all end all"...2x8 ohm speakers in series=16 ohms. 2x8 ohm speakers in parallel=4 ohms. Rule of thumb is never draw more ohms from your speakers than comes from your amp..Good luck

you can't "draw" resistance from anything. resistance doesn't travel. it is static. you draw current.

[chaos GT]

ported/vented boxes can handle alot more power than a sealed box. a sealed box talkes less power, but sounds a bit cleaner. but a PORTED/VENTED BOX WILL HIT ALOTY HARDER AND PUT UP BIGGER SPL NUMBERS. damn, hit the caps....sorry.

the first part of this statement is misleading. for strictly power handling small sealed box > large sealed box > ported/vented box. why? because the smaller airspace in the small sealed box means the sub has to work harder to compress the air inside the box. this in turn limits the mechanical excursion of the speaker. this is also the reason why smaller sealed boxes tend to sound "tighter" and "punchier" but don't reach the same spl levels.

the other thing you need to worry about with ported enclosures is playing below the tuning frequency. at those frequencies there's almost no backpressure in the box and the sub literally will "flap in the breeze". with a tuning below 35 hz or so you don't really have to worry too much because most music (especially if it's an mp3 or some such thing) doesn't reach that low for extended intervals.

[tricked03gls]

If you looking for a good sub you CANT blow up id go audiobahn immortal series, big bucks but big boom and all youd need is one aub for that amp, it might even push it lol

[2loud2k2xd]

chaos....how do you figure my post is incorrect? with my setup, if i were to put 2400 rms to my soloX in a sealed box, i would blow up the sub. you can put more power to a vented/ported box than you could a sealed enclosure.

tricked....yes, the immortals are F'n sweet. but the ohm load is why i didnt buy them. you cant bring it down to 1 ohm. thats why i went with 1 soloX. i had 2-1206t abahns...they rocked.

[kylemorg]

You can damage the woofer differently in different types of enclosures -- in a sealed box, theoretically you could blow out the surround with air pressure in too small a volume and too much excursion, plus they heat up more over time since the space around the coil and magnet is sealed.

In a ported box, it's easier to have the coil bottom out since there's less restriction to the excursion and damage the coil that way. Theoretically, the coil should stay cooler, since there's airflow in and out of the box, though.

However, you can blow up a subwoofer in either of them if you're going to be pumping way more watts to the sub than it can handle, or if you push your amp into clipping mode.

In other words, you're both right; now play nice.

[2loud2k2xd]

as far as clipping is concerned, you want a very little bit of clipping. not alot, just when you tune the amp gains to clipping (while using a o-scope, or remote bass controller w/clipping indicator), you want to tune at just to clipping. if you dont tune till clipping, your missing out on a bit more power and sound (loudness). its kinda tricky to set the amp to clipping without an o-scope or a remote mount bass controller (which i use).

i fried 2 alpine type E's in a sealed box at a comp. 1 hr later after the show, i went to circuit city to replace. they removed the subs and they were still smoking. i detatched the coils from the magnet. then 2 weeks later, i fried a pair of mtx6000 w/ the same 4201 mtx amp. i guess i like to push my subs to the limits. ive blown 6 type E's, 8 mtx 6000's and 4 mtx 8000's all in a few years...all in sealed boxes. ive tried to blow the soloX...but i dont think i can. and it would cost way too much to replace anyway.

bottom line, any great audio system needs to be tuned. the box plays an important part of it as well as the sub. if the 2 dont work well, then you will have problems and not be able to fully get what you want out of it. a well thought out box design, the right sub to go along with the box, and an amp that will push the sub= 1 hell of a sound system. :D

this message has been brought to you by the following people...2loud2k2xd
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come on, its early and im still tired.