Subs cut out every once in a while?

[Gun5]

Doesnt matter when, say it hits one really high beat or something (that its hit a million times before just fine) it shuts the amp off and puts it in red light mode and I have to turn head unit off and on.. its getting kind of annoying its a ELA500.1 Bazooka amp (700 watts)

[Cypher]

its overheating... try turning down the amp or hte sub setting on the HU

[CTele02]

I had this same problem a year ago, if you are using a cheap walmart fuse for your power supply change it now... My power fuse would "hop" in and out of the box since it was a cheap one thus everytime the fuse disconnected from the bass the amp cut out. Now I use an Audiobahn fuse that has hooks at each end that are a much better design. So if thats not your problem, then its the overheating.

[coco]

if its on one beat, the subs are pulling too much power from the amp at one time and its going into protect mode, adjust the gain and the bass boost and other levels on the amp, that should help.

[Gun5]

its adjusted perfectly, hell I can turn the HU off and on now and sometimes it doesnt come back it just goes off after betas to now.. its not overheating and its been playing this loud for mouths.. where can I get a new fuse I have a feeling that might be it.. its not tucked in as good after the CAI install so its moving around near the battery (doing it more since to)

EDIT: went out and the fuse was alittle lose in the holder thing so I took it out put case on and turned car on and started banging it hard didnt turn off... so thats all good.. if its the amp getting hot bazooka has water cooling for this line of amps ill be getting that or anyone say 2 120MM computer fans will do it?

[KeWLKaT]

i am about to put a mobo fan on mine, it overheats on big impact, its a 1920W huge *** amp LOL

[Gun5]

im going to have to reinforce my mirrors and stuff they flap to much now :eek: rofl anyways bazooka water cooling kit here

http://www.cardomain.com/item/BAZCPKIT?ref=frog

btw coco if it is that prob would a cap help? Iv tuned this thing great after a few days of testing it when i first got it

[CTele02]

The fuse was just 10 dollars... im sure it will cure your problem forever as it has mine...

[KeWLKaT]

yes, a cap will fix it. but i would suggest a bigger battery (optima) instead of a cap.

I think that the power compensation should go like this:

START with bigger bat, THEN add a cap IF necessary.

That's how we roll in our installation shops where i work

Reason is, the cap compensates big hits, but it compensates small losses. I had a cap on stock battery and let me tell you that **** fell under 10 volts all the time. Now it hardly budges and RARELY falls down to 12 V if its hard hits

[Gun5]

what kind of battery should I look at never really did anything with them before, also on the fuses all I can find on cardomain are the little fuses its not showing them in clear cases and such

[KeWLKaT]

bro.... your sub doesnt cut because of your fuse. if your fuse blew, you wouldnt even be able to hear your subs right now.

ctele's case was REALLY, REALLY rare and wierd. From what I understand, the fuse he had on his amp was loose, so the connection was coming on and off all the time. I dont want you to waste your money on a part you probably wont need.

2 things:

- Cool down your amp
- Get a new battery. Optima Yellow top 34/78(those numbers represent the size, which is the same as stock) is what me, CornbreadXD, and Atmoic have in our cars. All of us have monster (well, at least, big enough) systems also.

Also, for whoever says that the yellow top isnt good for starting, you can go kill yourself. Stock battery has 550 Cold Crank Amps VS the 600 and some that the Optima has.

Also gun, good thing about this battery is that it is a dep cycle battery, meaning it's MEANT to enable you to listen to your system/movies car turned off for HOURS without you worrying it putting out much less voltage.

[Gun5]

bro.... your sub doesnt cut because of your fuse. if your fuse blew, you wouldnt even be able to hear your subs right now.

ctele's case was REALLY, REALLY rare and wierd. From what I understand, the fuse he had on his amp was loose, so the connection was coming on and off all the time. I dont want you to waste your money on a part you probably wont need.

2 things:

- Cool down your amp
- Get a new battery. Optima Yellow top 34/78(those numbers represent the size, which is the same as stock) is what me, CornbreadXD, and Atmoic have in our cars. All of us have monster (well, at least, big enough) systems also.

Also, for whoever says that the yellow top isnt good for starting, you can go kill yourself. Stock battery has 550 Cold Crank Amps VS the 600 and some that the Optima has.

Also gun, good thing about this battery is that it is a dep cycle battery, meaning it's MEANT to enable you to listen to your system/movies car turned off for HOURS without you worrying it putting out much less voltage.

oh good stuff I always play my music with the car off, and I was talking about the fuse under the hood, mine was lose and I think still is (cheap scoshce one)

[KeWLKaT]

hmmm i still think thats not where your problem is.

[chaos GT]

i'm gonna agree that's it's probably not the fuse. if it is overheating, you may want to double check all your grounds. are the connections tight and clean? finally, what size power/ground wire do you have?

[Gun5]

i'm gonna agree that's it's probably not the fuse. if it is overheating, you may want to double check all your grounds. are the connections tight and clean? finally, what size power/ground wire do you have?

i dunno what ever is in the 1,500 watt scosche kit

[CTele02]

Im just suggesting do the cheap/necessary $10 fuse swap first, since i used the same chip-fuse you have now, BEFORE you start spending a ton more on other things that will not fix the problem if your power fuse is the real problem. So in my case, my fuse did not blow (no crack in it) the cheap walmart kit that you and i had just doesn't do well since it eventually rattles in and out of place, thus cutting the power to your amp on and off in the middle of songs. So if that doesn't work, THEN go ahead and think about the battery and cooling.

[chaos GT]

if you have the walmart kit there is a slight problem with it:

although it uses a fairly hefty power wire (i believe its the very rare 5 gauge), the ground is only 9 gauge. for a 500 watt amp, 9 gauge is on the thin side especially if you're using the whole piece of it. first bit of advice: shorten the ground cable if you can. if you can't, perhaps try a bigger piece of wire (4 gauge). you can get it from cc/bb/radioshack and it'll cost only a few dollars for 2-3 feet.

edit: if you have some extra length on your power wire, you could cut it off and use that bit for the ground also.

[KeWLKaT]

ah, sorry ctele02, i didnt realize the situation here.

def. get that done with the fuse then :S holy **** how cheap is walmart stuff that a fuse goes in and out of its place LOL

[2loud2k2xd]

i think its going into "protection". for reasons of overheating or not properly wired correctly. if it works fine for a bit, the after a deep bass line, the it "pops" (goes into protection), the amp gains are not set correctly, or there may be some internal problems with the amp. have you done anything differently that would cause this to happen? i do not beleive its a fuse issue. fuses are a piece of metal to make a connection, when it (the fuse) pops, the connection is lost and no longer suppling power. make sure the amp ground is at least a 4 or 6ga wire and only at least 3' or less form the amp to the grounding point. try switching where you have the ground at. this may also help. beleive me, i have been thru my fair share of audio problems. remember a while ago whan i installed my dvd player. i fried my deck, both amps and all 6 channels of my rca's. what size power wire are you using for the amp, and what size for the ground? if mentioned earlier...sorry, i forgot. if your running anything more than 500 watts rma, you should use a 4/6ga power wire and the same ground wire to be safe. next, feel the amp, next time it pops, is it warm, or hot? also, how many different protection modes does the amp have? mine has 4 or 5. overheat, dc/ac current, thermal, overload, and i cant think of the other one at the moment. if the deck has preamp volts outputs, make sure the gains on the amp are turned down, the output volts from the deck acts like a little more power and will also make amps go into protection.

[hyunelan2]

Was it you that just got a new headunit with a higher voltage output? (assuming it was) If you didn't drop the gains enough on the amp, you're pushing it too hard, and it's going into protection. I'm not the car-audio guy that some people are here, but thought I'd throw in my .02.

[coco]

i think its going into "protection". for reasons of overheating or not properly wired correctly. if it works fine for a bit, the after a deep bass line, the it "pops" (goes into protection), the amp gains are not set correctly, or there may be some internal problems with the amp.


agreed, also what comes into mind is what load are u running your subs at?? 2ohms, 4ohms...... if ur running at 2 ohms or lower is ur amp stable for that load?? if u run the load on the subs too low and ur amp is not stable for that load that can also cause it to overheat and with time stop working. and if thats not the case, 2loud2k2xd is right check ur fuses and like he said and i too check ur gain levels, and also ur ground try to make it as short as possible and always the same guage as ur power wire. some times with audio it trial and error...its weird like that sometimes.

[Gun5]

agreed, also what comes into mind is what load are u running your subs at?? 2ohms, 4ohms...... if ur running at 2 ohms or lower is ur amp stable for that load?? if u run the load on the subs too low and ur amp is not stable for that load that can also cause it to overheat and with time stop working. and if thats not the case, 2loud2k2xd is right check ur fuses and like he said and i too check ur gain levels, and also ur ground try to make it as short as possible and always the same guage as ur power wire. some times with audio it trial and error...its weird like that sometimes.

its set up however it said in the manual and website at the time, got 4 wires, 2 going to each sub.. i think thats 2 omhs

Im gonna goto CC or Radioshack and get some 4 GA wire unless someone has some they can send me here ill pay shipping via paypal.. my amp has hook ups for water cooling the pump + 17 feet hose and coolant is $40..

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2628&stc=1
the big holes is where the water goes

btw old specs of HU

Anti Theft: Rotating Faceplate
Preamp Outputs: 3 sets
Preamp Output Voltage: 2 volts
CD Changer Controls: Yes
Remote Control: Yes
RMS Power: 22W x 4
Peak Power: 50W x 4
CD Frequency Response: 10-20,000 Hz
FM Mono Sensitivity: 9.3 dBf
CD Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105 dB
Amp Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.01 %

New one so ya theres +2 more volts im sure I gotta adjust the amp gain alittle bit now

Anti Theft: Removable Faceplate
Preamp Outputs: 3 sets
Preamp Output Voltage: 4 volts
CD Changer Controls: Yes
Remote Control: Yes
RMS Power: 22W x 4
Peak Power: 50W x 4
CD Frequency Response: 10-20,000 Hz
FM Mono Sensitivity: 9.3 dBf
CD Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105 dB
Amp Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.01 %

[hyunelan2]

If you didn't adjust your gains downward - I would say that is your problem. Doubling the strenght of the signal to the amp is asking it to do a lot more work with your gains where they were before. I'd start there.

[paki]

If you didn't adjust your gains downward - I would say that is your problem. Doubling the strenght of the signal to the amp is asking it to do a lot more work with your gains where they were before. I'd start there.

yeah.. before going and spending money to buy everything else only to find out its gonna do the same thing again.. go with what hyunelan2 says and turn the gain down. if that doesnt work, then yes its another problem (duh lol)

[KeWLKaT]

and i wouldnt be too eager about getting WATER to go through an ELECTRIC device such as an amplifier...

[2loud2k2xd]

and i wouldnt be too eager about getting WATER to go through an ELECTRIC device such as an amplifier...

kewl, some amps have a "water jacket", kinda like the block of a motor. sealed tight, but cools the amp down tremendoiusly. my point is, they must have overheating problems to offer "water cooled" amps.

[KeWLKaT]

seriously i didnt think of that one LOL but still it is pretty scary to have water going thru there.

[Gun5]

seriously i didnt think of that one LOL but still it is pretty scary to have water going thru there.

ya sinec thats what 700 watts going right next to water rofl hope it dont leak but im crazy enough todo that

[coco]

i see (in pic) u have the bass boost and the level high and by the specs of ur new HU, i would turn the level and bass boost down alittle bit and see if that helps because its being overpoweredby the signal its receiving is alot higher and its making it hard for it to put out those levels of gain and boost being set so high, as for the load if i remember right those subs come with a 4ohm voice coil so ur ok on the load.

[ryan s-b]

that water cooled system makes me laugh... really, really hard.

[KeWLKaT]

sheesh GLAD i'm not the only one LOL

[Gun5]

retuned it yesterday, I need to turn the bass boost up a bit I have to put it at 28 volume to get where 24-25 got it before but it hasnt cut off yet.. also I forget how to set the X-Over currectly I just quickly did it out in the middle of nowhere so I wouldnt bother anyone