KeWLKaT's Steps

[KeWLKaT]

Old Turbo Kit is now sold.

Ordered the Alpine entry level kit without decompression plate. I want to remain with stock compression to not lose power in the lower RPMs, since I will be keeping the same boost it is wastegated at (~8psi).

Here is the reply I got today:

The kit is currently being build and I will be ready to ship early next week. I will forward you the tracking number once I receive it.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Now... For all the people who can help me I have a few things:

- I think I'm going to go with a simple DSM 1 G BOV (yes, the one I had and sold and now regretting :() I don't want to buy a replica and leak boost. A Cheap, real BOV, IMO, is better than an expensive, fake BOV. Comments?

- Looking for an intercooler now... What dimensions should I need? I am going for something around 8 inches tall or so, but what's the width that I need? (Mahonroy?)

[Doohickie]

You're nuts! I hope it works. You're a braver man that I am.

[hyunelan2]

FYI: That allen-bolt on the driver's side of the head is a MFer to remove. Most people have had to drill out the center to remove it. Just thought I'd give you a heads-up.

[KeWLKaT]

Yeah, I had heard about that, but after doing multiple searches on NT.com, apparently all you have to do is get the engine hot, and then remove the bolt.

Either way, I have an extractor :)

Thanks for the concern though! :D

[robs02elantra]

Good luck with everything. I will be following closely to see how it all goes!

I really hope this works out as well as you are hoping with all the tuning you talk about, show everyone what you mean and have a sick xd driving around montreal to show for your hard work!

[CTele02]

So whats the expense so far on parts (price run down on each piece and where ya found them for others to reference) and are you getting it professionally installed or doing it completely yourself (for free)?

[clarion]

your install is going to be alot bigger than mine, my kit looks like a baby now

what are you tapping the coolant line for?

[ArunSenior04]

Yea, how much did all that stuff run you?



:sheds tear:
They grow up so fast....
LOL

[evan938]

honestly, a 3" exhaust may be too big. if youre getting mandrel bends, go w/ a 2.5", itll be good for up to 400 hp easy. with a 3", you risk hitting a boost spike, over-boosting, and possibly blowing your motor.

dont tap your block for oil return. tap the oil pan at the top. this will a) not ruin your block b) be easy to reverse if/when you sell, youll just need a new oil pan c) be a TON easier. the oil pan has plenty room to have an oil return line

make sure you have some extra $ on hand (500$) because you WILL be making countless runs to the store for dumb parts...trust me, me and nick (dweet) did it while turbo'ing his rd2

[KeWLKaT]

@robs02elantra:

Thanks man, I hope so also :) Next year comes you car :D

@Ctele02 and Arunsenior....

Price breakdowns... (CAN$)

I basically got a (partial) custom kit from some local guy with an RD. This included all the big parts like the manifold, turbo, exhaust, pipes, fuel delivery system (which I will not use) and a couple more goodies for around 2000$

Apart from that,

SMT-6 - 340$ new (local)
Boost controller - 50$ (local)
Injectors - 250$ (Kspec)
Gauges- 50-80$ EA, some came with the kit, some from eBay
Oil lines and fittings - 75$ (local)
Misc gaskets, couplers, clamps, piping - 150$

Plus I wil be reselling the FMU and injectors that came with the kit, looking to get a minimum of 400$ for that, so, in total, I think it comes close to 2500$.

I have a little extra left "just in case".

@Clarion:

I need to tap into the coolant lines because my turbo is watercooled also.

@evan:

The only reason I got 3" is because the guy gave me his exhaust with his kit. The DP being 2.5" (right size), I am not worried about boost creep, and also the fact that my WG is internal helps a little to give me that piece of mind. Also, keep in mind that I have a boost controller attached to the BOV, so, even if I experience boost creep, it will be evacuated into the atmosphere :redface:

[CTele02]

You Canadians and your play money... jfwy. Thanks for the info. 2500CAN = 2,162.25 USD.

[KeWLKaT]

LOL You're funny ;)

No problemo for the info.

And for information's sake, this SSA manifold has flawless welds, I don't know why you guys hate them so much. The runners aren't messy like on their headers.

[robs02elantra]

Next year my car indeed!! I've started saving for a car for my wife, and enquiring about increase in Insurance for a second car, so that I can go crazy on the XD without having to worry about it being reliable enough for my wife.

[Estopatitiana]

i think the 3" exhaust will be fine, i doubt youll be running over 250whp, im anxiouse to see some dyno numbers

[KeWLKaT]

If I pass the 200 whp mark nicely, tuned on 94 octane, I will be very happy.

Then come the air flow mods.

Installation comes during holiday vacations. Most probably around the first week of January, and the tuning will be done asap with wideband O2 dyno sheets.

[evan938]

if he has a tiburon. the exhaust is going to take more work trying to get it to fit (remember, tibs exhaust comes out on the drivers side) than just getting a good 2.5" for your car. you can still hit boost spike w/ a 2.5" dp and 3" exhaust. i think its just overkill, and will be too much. 2.5" exhaust will also be a little bit lighter due to less material, and again, will be good for well over 400hp

[KeWLKaT]

It's all good man.

I'll see.

Also, bro, i don't know where you got the info that the tib exhaust comes out from the driver's side... :confused:

http://www.carsearch.com/photos/737448.jpeg

the exhaust is very similar if not identical to the xd's.

two guys on my forum did the swap with minimal modification needed, and i will try to reproduce that.

[evan938]

...as listed on ebay for a 97-01 exhaust.

http://www.stockreco.com/aaaa358.jpg

the bend makes it go to the drivers side. ive seen a few lately like that. i guess they go both ways. either way, good luck making it fit

[Keyan]

...as listed on ebay for a 97-01 exhaust.

http://www.stockreco.com/aaaa358.jpg

the bend makes it go to the drivers side. ive seen a few lately like that. i guess they go both ways. either way, good luck making it fit



evan....the mid pipe is upside down.



:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[evan938]

no its not. look how it bends at the end. OVER the rear 'axle'

[Keyan]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/Keyan/aaaa358.jpg



EDIT: Sorry for stealing the topic. I'm done arguing lol

[KeWLKaT]

Good job Keyan :)

Well hopefully see what happens and finally get it done with this debate if i get it to fit right :D

[Mahonroy]

Just keep this graph in mind I got out of my Maximum Boost:
http://mahonroy.home.comcast.net/turbo/exhaustd.jpg

[Cypher]

wooooooo turbo that xd!!!! come on felix i wanna see it all in ohio so make sure you don't blow anything up! oh and evan i do believe you're wrong. look at the bends and flip the exhaust in your mind. it does go to the passenger side

wait... so after looking at that graph you don't need to make your exhaust bigger than 2.25" if you don't plan on exceeding 200 or so hp??

[KeWLKaT]

Thanks for that graph Mahonroy, I had forgotten about it.

I think I should go back into the pages of that book again just to make sure :)

Also, after a few little discussions/equations, it seems like the sonata injectors are going to be working really hard. Or it might not be enough. Not good enough for me.

Now I wil continue my search for injectors that are a bit bigger, and cancel my order on the 290cc ones.

I am trying to avoid using and extra injectors with the setup I have in mind right now.

[only1db]

how much boost?

how hard is it to tune the smt-6??


Laughs at evan.....the muffler section goes over the axel....

[KeWLKaT]

I will be running around 8 psi.

The SMT-6 is a bit trickier because we don't have access to preset maps for our cars. As you know, it works with a laptop and lets you control litterally EVERYTHING.

I am doing some more research on the SMT-6 right now, the guy selling it to me turbocharges hyundais for a living, and he mentionned that I will need and aux. "box" that will make sure that the ECU won't be able to re-lean the mixture like it does with the S-AFC.

Although, since the SMT-6 is a piggyback, it has the ability to "learn" a map from your own car if you keep the same injectors for a run.

Also, it can hold 2 different maps that you can switch with the flip of a button. I will keep that to one preset with max (8 pounds) boost, and one with 0, but with performant conditions.

I feel like a couple of intense hours on the dyno are waiting for me, lol.

[only1db]

yeah sounds it!! ggod luck with everything!

i cant wait to start on mine

[FordFasteRR]

awesome progress...

If you keep the boost low, you will be fine with the sonata injectors...

If anything, just swapping out to a higher flow fuel pump should help you get a little more flow out of the sonata injectors without having to upgrade them to the next level....

[Mahonroy]

I know that with my 5x 290cc injectors and my stock fuel pump is enough to accomodate fuel for me to run 15 pounds of boost, I don't know, you may be ok...One of my buddies told me that once you go over 200hp or so it becomes a little risky with the 290cc's, but in my case I don't have 4, I have 5 of them so thats why its cool.

[evan938]

labmixz has some 400cc injectors for sale. i think he wants like 300 or so for them OEM fit, oem harnesses, dont have to modify ANYTHING (these used to be mine)

[Fudbalplaya87]

sorry to get off topic for quick sec but did not feel like opening up a whole new thread, What is the diameter of that exhaust that evan and keyan were arguing about, and I assume the final verdict is that it does go to the passenger side and can fit 2003 elantra hatchback with minor adjustments? oh and kewl, good luck

[evan938]

I doubt it will fit. it looks too different from my evofusion cat-back

[KeWLKaT]

Alright.

Did some more research today and went to see my guy.

We concluded that it is better to keep the OEM injectors and run an extra injector setup.

It is way easier to run without boost, and stays cheap on gas if you don't press on the gas pedal too much.

I WILL go with the SMT-6 though instead of my SDS EIC, because the deal is too good to pass on.

Also, he is making a mystery box nobody knows about that will plug into the ECU in order for it not to be able to lean out the mixture.

[evan938]

hahahahaha. sounds like derek (dvanderk on NT) and his "mystery box" that his "guy" "designed" for him. hes such a liar though, i doubt he even has a tiburon.

[KeWLKaT]

OK...

UPDATE AGAIN

That box will cost too much as for what I was willing to spend.

I will stick with the SDS EIC. We'll see what happens. Anyhow, I can always get an SMT-6 later on, since the 7 is out and they'll be selling on ebay like hot bread.

[dmdicks]

With the SMT you will be able to run 290cc main injectors and any size subinjector or injectors. Be aware that over 290cc/min injectors are very hard to trick the OEM ECU into running. An ideal setup would be similar to what Mahanory is running. Also be aware that NO ONE has been able to get the SMT-6 to effectively control timing on the BetaI and II engines. So far next to a Standalone I only know of the Unichip being effective at controlling timing.
With all that in mind the OEM ECU on MAP based engines seems to be able to somewhat adjust timing on its own using the Intake Air Temp sensor. I know of someone using no timing modifications and running 12psi of boost with no problems. Granted they have 4 290cc injectors and one 60lb/hr sub injectors so there is plenty of fuel available.

[only1db]

what about an MSD??? doesnt that come with software to adjust the timing??

[KeWLKaT]

Wow there....

We have PLENTY of cars here in quebec (mostly beta tibs) that have an SMT-6 setup and have flawless functionnality.

This guy I deal with is AMAZING. He makes his own electronics. He is also the one who CNCs all the extra injector spacers people have both in Canada and the US.

[dmdicks]

Do all these cars have the timing working properly? I worked the formost tuner in the states and the only way we got it working was to use several types of inline resistors and capacitors. By no means a bolt on affair. I'd also lie to here more about this "self-learning" feature as the SMT I had posessed no such feature.

[KeWLKaT]

Yes, as far as I know I see 3-4 of them on a regular basis and they tell me the timing works perfectly, although I am not aware of which module they are using to control it with the SMT. Yes, it is not a bolt-on affair, but the tuner i'm talking about does this on a regular basis, and most of his clientele are hyundai owners. He, himself, has a beta accent on nitrous and currently putting a turbo on it. And he already has the SMT-6 hooked on it.

The self learning feature... I don't know, frankly, I just heard about it. Anyhow, now that I decided on not using it anymore, I guess we'll never find out. :(

[clarion]

hey kewlkat, you plan on wraping or painting your maifold or downpipe? how you plan on keeping under hood temps down?

[KeWLKaT]

After all the installation and fitting is done, I am getting the manifold ceramic coated.

Also I am painting the charge pipes in ceramic paint myself.

Thats about it :)

MAYBE I will wrap the DP.

[only1db]

^ still even that...is probably not necessary...that paint will do a good job of keeping the temps down...if you get the right paint that is

[KeWLKaT]

as in.... the ceramic coating?

it helps a lot... and i just wont see it turn blood red after hard runs :)

and i have the right paint, its high temp cermamic paint that ive used in all of my unerhood painting schemes until now and on my motorbike :)

[only1db]

yeah...i dont know if you caught that video but that was badass!!

[KeWLKaT]

Yeah... but that is totally normal. The turbo also turns blood red in HARD runs. Nothing to be worried about really, but cermaic coating helps to disperese the heat.

I updated my first post, check it out!

[KeWLKaT]

guys is still need answers on questions 1 3 4 in my first post :)

[Keyan]

Bump for new year updates.


??

[KeWLKaT]

UPDATE:

Today we 'started'.

-CLEAN garage to make car fit nicely, (4+ hours)

-took off drivers' seat, started on wiring, took off bumper and headlights,

-TEST FIT: took off exhaust, realized I need a 1/4'' spacer for the exhaust flange on the head or else turbine is too close,

-DP fits nicely, though comes close to alt.

What struck me :

CRAP! there is NO SPACE AT ALL on the driver's side for the intercooler piping!!! WTF!!! Too tired to think right now.


Tomorrow:

- Finish wiring for gauges, install the oil pres. sender somewhere else than stock location or else im too close to the wastegate
- Gather an exact list of what I need for the oil and fuel lines (length and thread) to go order it on monday from the shop
- Remove that allen bolt on the side of the head, remove oil pan and fuel rail dampner
- Figure out the IC piping problem
- Drink beer
- Buy more beer
- Sleep

[korai9989]

Quite a task list... especially having to buy beer and sleep, damn i feel for you.

[Mahonroy]

Let me know if u need help with the intercooler piping, I studied it for a while before I figured out a good way to do it.

[KeWLKaT]

Mahon I would LOVE it if you can steer me in the right direction.

On the passenger side it seems that if i trim that plastic cover on the side of the rad and move the overflow tank, it will fit some piping.

Though there is like only 1/4'' of space between the rad and frame on the other side (driver's). Perhaps I will have to move the rad to the side? (havent measured if that would fit)

EDIT: looks like you cut through the frame... Am I right?

[Mahonroy]

Yeah relocate the coolant overflow tank somewhere, anywhere, just as long as its not covering up that current area. Then it should look something similar to this (passenger side):

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/inter8.jpg

There was a rubberish type of meterial bolted down over right next to the radiator that I temporarily removed, and as you can see I grinded away a little bit of the metal there already (turned out I needed to grind away a lot more than just this, though I didn't get a picture of it). Also, do this on the equivelent opposite side (the drivers side), and then the intercooler piping can fit through like this: (I won't lie though, its tough making and fitting pipes going from the turbo outlet, through that hole, then into the intercooler, its hard to fit the pipes in the small amount of space on the elantra, and also to get the clamps around the pipes and tightened)

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/inter27.jpg

And you can also get a better view of what I grinded away for the pipes to fit. You will probably have to unhook some of the local wiring harnesses and move them around because those get in the way a bit also. You will deffinetly have to cut the metal in order to fit the piping, but its really no problem at all. I also should have made the brackets so it lifted the intercooler up a little bit more, then the pipes would have fit more easily through. Hope this helps so far... :D

[slow 2K2GT]

Nevermind...found my answer, read a little too fast.

[KeWLKaT]

see first post

[Mahonroy]

Ahh I C you are going with alpine developments kit...good choice you will be very pleased...just a F.Y.I. I am heading to reno for like 6 days starting tomorrow, but when I get back is when I am going to finish up my car, and I am going to re-make all of my charge pipes, if you are interested I could also knock out a set of intercooler piping for you as well...

[KeWLKaT]

thanks man, but for now i don't want to think about that, i'm just going to sell the kit first, and then concentrate on getting what i need.

[clarion]

i kinda wish i went with Alpine :( oh well....

[KeWLKaT]

It's not too late man, I had 3/4 of the car undone when we took the decision. Trust me, it's hard, but in the end, I think it's worth it.

The only thing that sucks is that I have 4 gauges inside now, and it looks rice-ish LOL

[clarion]

all i got is a turbo timer :D ...people are like 'your car is still running!" as i walk off, then the car turns off, then they got that look on there faces

im gonna give tims kit a chance tho....but it will be intercooled and have a SAFC....people been saying the stock ecu wont cut it...im not taking any chances

[skeetre]

fordfasterr was telling me some info about the stock ecu being fine as long as you keep the boost at a reasonable rate. I think it was like 6-8psi? maybe more.. I don't remember offhand and I'm at work so I can't check my history. There's also a couple other things he's throwing in that help the stock ecu, keep it from getting a CEL. (I had to ask what that stood for :P)

[yamaha]

The stock ECU will be able to compensate somewhat for 4-5 pounds of boost, anyhting more then that and you will need a piggyback or some other form of tuning.

[Cypher]

at 6-8psi you're going to need something to trim back the fuel. makre sure you don't get into more than you can handle a turbo is alot of work skeetre. lol felix. i thought you didn't think highly of the alpine kit!

[KeWLKaT]

well i didint think highly of it... until now

:)

[KeWLKaT]

UPDATE!!!!!!! :)

I just sold the kit!!!!! So I will be buying the alpine kit very soon, anywhere from next week to a month.

[ilanpro]

UPDATE!!!!!!! :)

I just sold the kit!!!!! So I will be buying the alpine kit very soon, anywhere from next week to a month.


with that I will call you Forfasterr Jr :D :D :D :D

[KeWLKaT]

LOL why is that? :)

Thanks I guess, haha

[yamaha]

So why are you going with the Alpine kit now?

[KeWLKaT]

I gave it a GOOD thought, and since this is my daily driver, I don't want to be stuck without it for weeks in order to get it on the dyno everytime something happens/a part breaks, etc. etc.

The unichip is a simple solution, no wiring to do through the firewall, no headaches, ALL parts are there, AND, on the long run, it's the cheapest solution.

[KeWLKaT]

First post updated

[dmdicks]

Old Turbo Kit is now sold.

Ordered the Alpine entry level kit without decompression plate. I want to remain with stock compression to not lose power in the lower RPMs, since I will be keeping the same boost it is wastegated at (~8psi).

Here is the reply I got today:



:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Now... For all the people who can help me I have a few things:

- I think I'm going to go with a simple DSM 1 G BOV (yes, the one I had and sold and now regretting :() I don't want to buy a replica and leak boost. A Cheap, real BOV, IMO, is better than an expensive, fake BOV. Comments?

- Looking for an intercooler now... What dimensions should I need? I am going for something around 8 inches tall or so, but what's the width that I need? (Mahonroy?)

You should really open a new thread on this as its gonna get confusing. As for BOV's the DSM will work just fine as long as you run the bypass line to the turbo inlet in between the MAF and turbo. Another cheap option is the OEM style Bosch BOV.

[KeWLKaT]

Well I have a 2002 model which is MAP based so that shouldn't be a problem :)

I will open a new thread on this once the kit comes in :D

[SuperGLS]

Closed because Felix asked me too. He wants to make a newer, cleaner thread.