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: Engine pinging noise, If it ever happened to you, let us know



olidx
12-10-2005, 03:33 PM
I have decided to propose a topic to consolidate who have/had a pinging engine noise with his new and stock Elantra engine with 87 gas. I have seen here and there posts mentioning pinging or knocking noise. Here is a link to Wikipedia on engine noises: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking. Could you please respond here if you ever hear the problem, with:

- Model Year:
- Mileage first heard:
- Noise type:
- ULEV/SULEV:
- Comments:

I am debugging a pinging noise myself and I am looking from input from you guys on this. If I use below 93 gas, I hear pinging at low RPM under load. The lower the octane rating, the higher the pinging. The level of pinging for 87 is clearly out of specification. 91 would be okay I think. I have an 05 model with CVVT so timing must be to blame (not deposits).

05xd
12-10-2005, 03:39 PM
I am debugging a pinging noise myself and I am looking from input from you guys on this. If I use below 93 gas, I hear pinging at low RPM under load. The lower the octane rating, the higher the pinging. The level of pinging for 87 is clearly out of specification. 91 would be okay I think. I have an 05 model with CVVT so timing must be to blame (not deposits).

Thats not true about the timing.I had a pinging/spark knock,and it was caused by carbon on the pistons and valves.That happen at or around 11,000 miles.Also if you use high octane gas,sometimes you will get a pinging.Um,if you still have champion plugs installed,get rid of them and get some NGK's.I also have a 05.Search around and you will find almost everything you need to know

olidx
12-10-2005, 03:57 PM
I have pinging since the car is new (it now has 4200 miles), that is why I do not think it is because of deposits. Also I use top tier gas (shell ,76, Chevron ...) so they should have the addidives to clean up deposits. The spark plugs do not look like deposits are in excess. I have the original NGK spark plugs.

http://xs58.xs.to/pics/05496/ngk_spark.JPG.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs58&d=05496&f=ngk_spark.JPG)

05xd
12-10-2005, 04:00 PM
Are you sure that the noise you hear isnt the injectors pulsing?Our injectors are quite loud.

olidx
12-10-2005, 04:11 PM
Would the octane rating make a difference then? And would it happen only under load? The technician recognized pinging as well and documented it, but no info as of pinging from the knock sensor though. Also my 2000 Elantra never made that noise, and the XD2 Elantra loaner cars I got were not making that noise either. Hope that helps.

05xd
12-10-2005, 04:27 PM
When mine was pinging,I was running 87 octane and it happened mostly when I was in 3rd, 4th gear when accel hard,so yes,mine was under load.A knock sensor is not goin to pick up a ping.Hell,half the time,they wont pick up a knock.

cbrmale
12-10-2005, 06:58 PM
Australia uses the same specification engines as the US. The minimum octane rating here is 91, and Hyundai Australia recommend 95 for the Elantra. The knock sensor should help it cope with 91, but it is a high-compression engine, after all.

If the knock sensor does cut in, it will retard the timing and kill performance until the knocking stops. Which is why high-octane fuel is better.

In Australia, because almost all new cars are high-compression, we are gradually phasing out 91 octane and the minimum will be 95 octane for normal cars with 98 octane available at all service stations for high performance engines like the WRX and so on.

I certainly run 95 octane in my 2000 XD and never had any problems, even when working hard on long steep climbs with three passengers and a boot full of luggage.

05xd
12-10-2005, 07:03 PM
Australia uses the same specification engines as the US. The minimum octane rating here is 91, and Hyundai Australia recommend 95 for the Elantra. The knock sensor should help it cope with 91, but it is a high-compression engine, after all.

If the knock sensor does cut in, it will retard the timing and kill performance until the knocking stops. Which is why high-octane fuel is better.

In Australia, because almost all new cars are high-compression, we are gradually phasing out 91 octane and the minimum will be 95 octane for normal cars with 98 octane available at all service stations for high performance engines like the WRX and so on.

I certainly run 95 octane in my 2000 XD and never had any problems, even when working hard on long steep climbs with three passengers and a boot full of luggage.
Im eating crow on this one but they recommend 87 octane for these cars.I was for a short time,part of the very few "I run 93 in my car" til 1.didnt notice any power increase and 2.waste of money for n/a application.In few occasions,higher octane gas will aid in pinging noises.It would be nice for the f/i people if there was 95 or 98 around here in the states.At one time years ago Sunoco used to sell 100 octane.That was eight years ago and it was 2.85 a gallon

droppedlikewhoa
12-10-2005, 08:04 PM
i have the same thing but i only get it when i start my car and its cold and it idles up and then when it idles down is when i get the knocking noise, but once the car is warm and ready to go the noise is gone. I have a late 2003 gt with the CVVT engine in it, i have a little more then 20,000 miles on the car, also for the record 87 is the way to go with the elantras i have let my gas tank to go to empty and tried a tank of 87 and noticed no change then i tried a tank of 93 and noticed no change, its just a waste of money.

olidx
12-10-2005, 08:39 PM
The higher the octane rating, the more anti-detonant additive is mixed with the fuel. There is no other difference between the grades of gas. So if your engine runs fine and is designed to use 87 (USA), using it is the best. Using 91 (USA) on that same engine will just clog the engine. Jet fuel and racing cars use high octane engine as the compression ratios are higher and sometimes they have turbos.
Now if the engine pings, one reason could be that because the air-gas mixture explodes before the spark from the spark plug happens in the cylinder. I believe that is what is happening in my case: it is consistant with using higher octane delaying the explosing, resulting in less to no pinging.
In theory, 87 (USA) is perfect for the CVVT beta. Not sure why I am having this problem... But I suspect a timing adjustment to be done on the CAM?


i have the same thing but i only get it when i start my car and its cold and it idles up and then when it idles down is when i get the knocking noise, but once the car is warm and ready to go the noise is gone.Just curious if you use a Hyundai Genuine Part Oil Filter? I heard about aftermarket filters causing this knocking at startup. You may want to try full synthetic oil too, so lubrification is better when your engine is cold. In my case, there is no pinging at startup. Only when the engine is at nominal temperature under load.

cclngthr
12-10-2005, 10:24 PM
On the US spec car, the ECU is mapped for 87 octane gas. Using higher octane fuel will clog the engine with carbon.

droppedlikewhoa
12-10-2005, 10:30 PM
when my car is due for a oil change in about 1,000 miles im going to use a hyundai filter instead of a aftermarket one because i was told at the dealership and by other people that aftermarket filters can cause this knocking at startup when the car is cold and its idleing down.

KeWLKaT
12-11-2005, 06:36 AM
On the US spec car, the ECU is mapped for 87 octane gas. Using higher octane fuel will clog the engine with carbon.

WTF

I now use 94 in prep for the turbo since a month now....

My car runs GRATER THAN EVER

In the service manual it says something like you can use 91 but 87 works :confused:

sportiva
12-11-2005, 10:26 AM
Much of the world uses the motor (M) method of rating octane level. At one time in the USA, we used the research (R) method. Now we use the RXM/2 method of octane rating. This is done by averaging both ratings by splitting the difference.

So, our 87 rating in the USA is actually 91 in the rest of the world, and our 91 is actually 95 in the rest of the world; likewise, our 93 is equivalent to the foreign 98. It seems everyone is getting confused over nothing.

My 05 Hatch has 11,000 miles, now, and I can't hear any pinging with 87 fuel, but only a slight valve train noise, when starting cold. Once warm, it is very quiet; still have original plugs, whatever brand they are.

Val from Florida

cclngthr
12-11-2005, 11:04 AM
WTF

I now use 94 in prep for the turbo since a month now....

My car runs GRATER THAN EVER

In the service manual it says something like you can use 91 but 87 works :confused:

The tech classes I have taken from Hyundai discuss the issue of using fuel higher than 87. The issue discusses the problem with carbon buildup when the car is run with it when the ECU has not been modified.

droppedlikewhoa
12-11-2005, 12:28 PM
you use 94 in a hyundai elantra?, wow theres no need for that man.

korai9989
12-11-2005, 01:21 PM
the lower the octane of gas, the more explosive and combustible it is.

for example, deisel is an octane of 40 and it doesn't even need spark plugs to ignite it.

if there is pinging, it probably isn't the octane, although a higher octane can solve the problem in some instances. higher octane fuels have less pinging because they require higher temperatures to burn the fuel, which is less fuel efficient (as most people don't realize)

for better performance, you should burn the lowest octane your car can handle.

i am not 100% sure what all can cause pinging... maybe even some clogging or other problems related to the fuel injection system?

cclngthr
12-11-2005, 01:29 PM
The issue is timing.

olidx
12-11-2005, 03:12 PM
I really think cclngthr is right about the timing. No cloging: at 0 miles my car was already doing the pinging. ECU readings are fine, so I think fuel injection is fine. I am thinking that there could be also a weak sensor that could cause it (it provides info to the ECU with an offset, so as a result the output of the ECU will be off as well). So I will ask they check the sensors out. Anyway, I think cclngthr has the right insight.

A couple images on timing for CVVT engines:

Beta CVVT Camshaft drawing:
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1391/cam5gj.th.jpg (http://img34.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cam5gj.jpg)

CVVT Timing effects:
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/751/graph0pm.th.jpg (http://img34.imageshack.us/my.php?image=graph0pm.jpg)

- Anyone else has more information so we get to know better what we are talking about?
- Anyone has heard pinging noise from his engine?

cbrmale
12-11-2005, 05:01 PM
Diesel engines typically use a compression of 20:1 to 25:1, which is why they ignite on compression. For petrol engines, the following applies:

Detonation
The fuel/air mixture is normally ignited slightly before the point of maximum compression to allow a small time for the flame-front of the burning fuel to expand throughout the mixture, so that maximum pressure occurs at the optimum point. The flame-front moves at about 1100 feet/second during normal combustion. It is only when the remaining unburned mixture is heated and pressurized by the advancing flame front for a certain length of time that the knocking effect occurs. It is caused by an instantaneous ignition of the remaining fuel/air mixture in the form of an explosion. The cylinder pressure rises dramatically beyond design limits. If allowed to persist detonation will cause vibration and damage to engine parts.

Detonation can typically be prevented by:

The use of higher octane petrol
The addition of octane-increasing "lead", isooctane, or other fuel additives
Reduction of cylinder pressure by increasing the engine revolutions or reducing the load on the engine, or both
Reduction of in-cylinder temperatures (such as through cooling or compression ratio reduction), or
Retardation of spark plug ignition.
Adding water in the form of humidity to the air.
Proper combustion chamber design which concentrates mixture near the spark plug and generates high turbulence to promote fast even burning.
Use of a spark plug of colder heat range in cases where the spark plug insulator has become a source of pre-ignition leading to detonation.

Correct ignition timing is essential for optimum engine performance and fuel efficiency. Modern automotive and small-boat engines have sensors that can detect knock and delay the spark plug firing to prevent it, allowing engines to safely use petrol of lower octane ratings, with the consequence of reduced power and efficiency.



the lower the octane of gas, the more explosive and combustible it is.

for example, deisel is an octane of 40 and it doesn't even need spark plugs to ignite it.

if there is pinging, it probably isn't the octane, although a higher octane can solve the problem in some instances. higher octane fuels have less pinging because they require higher temperatures to burn the fuel, which is less fuel efficient (as most people don't realize)

for better performance, you should burn the lowest octane your car can handle.

i am not 100% sure what all can cause pinging... maybe even some clogging or other problems related to the fuel injection system?

jp_recon
12-21-2005, 03:25 PM
when my car is due for a oil change in about 1,000 miles im going to use a hyundai filter instead of a aftermarket one because i was told at the dealership and by other people that aftermarket filters can cause this knocking at startup when the car is cold and its idleing down.

I noticed a difference as well, by switching to the HI-FLOW oil filter, the pinning sound decreased quite a bit.

TNT4ME
12-21-2005, 05:20 PM
This "pinging" you here can also be the camshaft chain. In our cars, the plastic valve cover makes the chain noise sound like a "ping"sound. I have had this checked out, the tensioner was fine. It is just the clearance they have is too small not to make this noise when there is the slightest slack in the chain.

Something to think about anyway.....

03SilverBullet
12-21-2005, 09:17 PM
I noticed a difference as well, by switching to the HI-FLOW oil filter, the pinning sound decreased quite a bit.
the hi flow filter is the hyundai OEM one?

jp_recon
01-10-2006, 11:32 PM
the hi flow filter is the hyundai OEM one?

Haha....FORD's going to be mad, but NO, it was the fram filter that they just changed to at Walmart. I had to get my oil changed and I didn't have time to do it myself, but when I got to WalMart they told me they had a new filter that the hyundais had to use for Hi-Flow use. I hate to admit, but it really made a difference. WELL...... I went to the dealership thinking it was a better choice than the fram filter, but guess what...... THE NOISE IS BACK!!!! *argh :(

03SilverBullet
01-11-2006, 12:10 AM
Haha....FORD's going to be mad, but NO, it was the fram filter that they just changed to at Walmart. I had to get my oil changed and I didn't have time to do it myself, but when I got to WalMart they told me they had a new filter that the hyundais had to use for Hi-Flow use. I hate to admit, but it really made a difference. WELL...... I went to the dealership thinking it was a better choice than the fram filter, but guess what...... THE NOISE IS BACK!!!! *argh :(
So the walmart filter worked and the hyundai OEM filter made the pinging come back?

jp_recon
01-18-2006, 09:49 AM
So the walmart filter worked and the hyundai OEM filter made the pinging come back?


exactamundo!

my next oil change will be done with the fram filter again to verify.

I'll update after I change it again....probably a couple of months.

IDElantra
04-17-2006, 07:26 PM
I've got a pinging noise under any kind of engine load as well...2005 Elantra GLS. Uphill, downhill, flat...if I try to accellerate it pings, if I'm going up a hill it pings HARD.

I called a Hyundai service shop, they recommended filling with 87 octane Chevron gas (from empty) and then adding a can of the high concentrate Techron additive on top of that to clean it up...I did that, it got better for a few miles...now it seems like it is worse than before.

They don't want to seem to admit that there might be something wrong with the engine that they don't want to cover under warranty. I'm really getting pissed with their warranty.

Leviathant
04-17-2006, 08:12 PM
My pinging, if I have what everyone's talking about, went away after I started using OEM filters regularly. *shrug*

IDElantra
04-19-2006, 05:40 PM
Talked to a Hyundai tech today to make an appointment to get it checked out. Once again, they have tried to tell me that pinging is normal and is caused by poor quality gasoline (I'm running Chevron, the best you can get). Tried to tell me that pinging won't harm the engine. Tried to tell me that there is never ever a problem with the engine until the checn engine light comes on. What a well rehearsed line of bull****.

He did tell me that they get a lot of complaints on pinging noise. But mine has started to ping under no load...not good.

I have noticed that it pings much more below 1000 feet in elevation. The town I work in is at 750 feet. The town I live in is almost 2600 feet...it doesn't ping at home, but it pings like a sonofa***** here at work...any thoughts on that?

bfgoedeke
04-19-2006, 06:24 PM
I'am gonna take a shot in the dark at this. Check your MAF sensor readings. Not only does it measure air flow, but air temp. as well. If it is showing an excessively high reading compared to outside (ambient) air temp, that could cause the pinging without necessarily triggering a code. Including those who run a CAI or similar system.

05xd
04-19-2006, 06:31 PM
It could be the additives in the gas.They are switching the seasonal blends.The "winter" blends will cause a car to run like crap and ping like crazy when the weather warms up.Try a different brand of gas or use a fuel additive.Mine was doin this at 14000 miles due to carbon built up on the pistons.A good decarb and 5000 miles later no ping :)

jh0n
04-19-2006, 08:23 PM
I asked my dealer ( actually the service guy ) and he said `yar mate, some of `em ping, eh, put premium in it ` which I did but I didnt like the cost. So I tried E10, regular unleaded with 10% ethanol, no ping and its the same price as reg. unleaded and I get the same Mileage ( or kilometerage :P ) as I did before if not better. My .02...

ieelantra05
04-27-2006, 10:38 AM
I took my car to the dealer because of a "knocking" noise coming from the engine and i got a brand new engine out of them. Apparently the block was bad or the crank was failing, I don't remember.

gaster
04-29-2006, 12:38 PM
exactamundo!

my next oil change will be done with the fram filter again to verify.

I'll update after I change it again....probably a couple of months.

Did you have a chance to switch back to Fram again?

I have the same valve tapping or pinging issue with the Hyundai filter. When I first bought the car and it had some off brand filter but no noise.

I'd swich to Fram, but I'd like to hear other opinions first.

NewsView
08-27-2006, 01:49 AM
2001 Elantra GLS
Automatic
Stock everything
Only OEM parts (including oil filters)
Noise started around 150-300 miles and is growing worse with time
Engine Rattle under acceleration and low RPMS (up to about 40mph then it either goes away or engine noise drowns it out).
No abnormal engine noises when completely stopped at a light.
10-20 minutes in duration used to last less than 5 minutes.
Worse when engine is cold or car was previously driven roughly 2-4 hours beforehand.
Seems louder in cool/damp weather ????
Not so obvious in hot, dry summer weather ????
Gas and octane makes no difference [that I can tell]
2mpg City loss (car only makes about 21mpgs City now).
Just last week: Had dealer replace factory Spark Plugs with NKGs (same spec). Original plugs were carbon-fouled though there is less than 30K on odometer and these are supposed to last 100,000 miles. Dealer blames carbon on bad gas, not on whatever causes the rattle or ping in the first place.
Never saw a CEL entire time I've owned car. Beginning to think one or more sensors don't "talk" to the computer since there is a problem everyone can hear yet it never trips a check engine light.
Efforts to fix or explain problem include: Heat sheild "tightened". "Cold selenoids are noisy" (dealer tech tells me in 2001). Dealer finally agrees to measure valve clearance (first one normal, second one "out of spec", final one conducted the very next day by Hyundai corporate rep finds "no problem"). Little over a year ago this same Hyundai rep checked my car's thrust washer/bearing (no sign of metal debris, no problem found (NPF). Manifold recall: Dealer finds no sign of cracks so they did NOT replace exhaust manifold. Motor mount replaced, no change on noise.
Tried oil additive.
Tried gas additive (only resulted in rough idle and misfiring engine).
Other problems: Rear brake/wheel thumping at stops, which started the first year of ownership. Dealer says last week that my rear brakes are in need of replacement but not the front. They have NOT checked the ABS or found a brake grabbing problem. They just want me to pay for rear brakes even though front should wear out faster and yet have over 2x the pad left compared to the rear (but that's another story).

My dealer can't seem to put two and two together. Does anyone here have answers? I suspect either bad knock sensor that computer doesn't pick up or a sticky valve lifter or bad valve guide. I've also heard, though, that a rattle or pinging type sound can come from the timing belt tensioner can anyone vouch for that theory?

ghrpdx
08-27-2006, 05:43 AM
I currently own my second Elantra XD2 ... the first was a manual which pinged from day one on 87 octane when the ambient temperature is high. My current XD2 is an automatic and it also has pinged since day one when the ambient temperature is high and I am using 87 octane. So ... in the winter, I use 87. In the summer, I use 89 and the pinging issue is resolved.

06elantra
09-09-2006, 05:09 AM
I asked my dealer ( actually the service guy ) and he said `yar mate, some of `em ping, eh, put premium in it ` which I did but I didnt like the cost. So I tried E10, regular unleaded with 10% ethanol, no ping and its the same price as reg. unleaded and I get the same Mileage ( or kilometerage :P ) as I did before if not better. My .02...

i personally hate the E10 fuel...
I dont see why it should be 100% the price of regular unleaded when it only contains 90% of 'fuel'
if it was a lil cheaper than the 'full bodied' unleaded, then it would be better (and they would make more money off it too!)
i know of 2 cars that have had severe engine problems from this stuff; a mate had a TR Magna insisted on putting e10 in it (i told him not to - i was working behind the counter at the BP he brought it from..) next day hes having issues starting the car and bad fuel consumption too. he ended up having to replace the motor too..
the other story i heard about e10, was a VZ commo that was run on it from day one.. it did not like it.. holden replaced the motor under warrenty as far as i know...

here in Mackay - we FINALLY got the 98 octane fuel (BP Ultimate) yesturday. im running that atm, and my car LOVES it, more responsive, goes harder etc etc- and i only done 50kms on it so far too!!! (but im getting a new motor under warrenty actually coz of a 'rattle' at idle that was driving me nuts. - i dont know why they chose to replace the short motor instead of fix whats wrong - but i dont care coz i dont have to pay for it at the end of the day!)

*gets back in box - soz if too off topic there*

Bnystrom
09-12-2006, 12:36 PM
Jet fuel and racing cars use high octane engine as the compression ratios are higher and sometimes they have turbos.

Just for the record, jet fuel is kerosene and has an extremely low octane rating in the 15-20 range.

http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/garticles/octane.html

BeerCanDrifter
10-05-2006, 11:37 AM
Not to resurect a old thread, but I have also had issues with engine noises. Mine is more of a tick (valves/injector tick generally). I have an 03 gls beta2 (74k miles) ran on 87US gas from chevron and I have done the oil changes myself with fram filters, stp and stock filters, but now i take the car into the dealer for the free oil changes. My tick has been in the car since 700 miles, it has not progressivly got worse but is more noticible on cold start-ups. It is also more prevelant when coming down from rev's I.e. pushing in the clutch around 3k rpm for 1st-4th gear

I still have not figured out the cause of my tick, but I have figured what it is not. This is all that I have changed so far:
Oil Filters (Fram, STP, Stock) - Fram was best of the 3 but tick was still there
Spark Plugs (Stock, Bosch, Champion) - I liked the Bosch supers over stock, champions made the engine hesitate. None made a difference in the tick for me.
STP Fuel Injector Cleaner - Made the tick go away for 30 seconds, no perm. fix
With a scope I listened to the injectors and they were not making above average noise, noise came from valve cover area, assumed valves out of spec
MAP sensor replaced (mine was 1 of 2 in the south east region to ever break, a lead rattled loose) - didnt fix the tick

The dealer has given me the usual runaround. "The elantras sound like that normally", "All cars make that noise", "We hear the tick that you have noted, but due to the fact that the engine light has not gone off there is nothing we can do to cover the problem." I am rather frustrated at the dealer, to tell me that all cars make that noise when I have 2 other cars with 140xxx miles on them that are less noisy. The tick may not be detrimental to the engine, be it timing off, slight change in cam clearance, sticky injectors, but it sure is annoying when you pull up to a beater car and you can hear the tick over their car.

silversharkXD2
10-05-2006, 12:23 PM
I hate to say it, but I have owned 3 beta 2's and they all did it. I also get a whine from somewhere now and then that sounds like an old belt that is just starting to squeak. The motor only has 2000 miles on it and it has sounded like that from day one. the tick and the whine. Its an econo box with a decent rep, but it's still an econo box. Has anyone here ever heard an accent motor...you wanna talk about ticking...thats one loud tick.

trurydernc05
04-27-2010, 12:24 AM
wow i know this is a really old post. Ran into pinging or knocking noises a few times with the Beta2 CVVT motors. 3 things have been replace in exact order. Timing CHAIN tensioner went bad, cause chain slap. that was the first time i notice the problems. hyundai/kia puts faulty hydraulic compressors in the tensioner. causing the chain to have free play. simple but cheap temp fix would be putting washers inside the housing, 2/3 will do until you get another part. do not go more than 1k miles on your cars will cause serious damage. 2nd faulty oil pump, run a test if your pressure at idle is below 22.8 psi then you may have knocking when you first start the motor. Also i noticed alot of noise coming from the engine while driving, at very light load the engine would not make a knocking sound. at a moderate or heavy load the engine does make the sound. Something similar to a spun bearing. But bearings when spun knock all the time. Eliminates that problem right there. Low OIL psi can cause your thrust bearings to go bad, and trust me 3rd problem will be your engine not running no more. Thrust bearing going bad will throw off alot of items in your engine. The knocking will become constant, you will suffer from loss of engine power. then almost after you suffer the loss of power , your engine will stop running. Ok i know i put alot there. before you spend lots of money or before you take it to a shop, Check to see if that noise you hear is coming from the top or bottom by revving your engine slightly while under the hood of your car. listen for top or bottom, if its the top. cheap fix, 40/60 dollars at your dealership.. if its the bottom. the best way to treat it , park it and replace the thrust bearings. check the oil psi. and make sure there is no wear on the main bearings in your engine.


Currently running the street with
2005 spectra LD 2.0 CVVT
M5BF1 tranny, changed final drive gear,
Kspec performance upgrades.
mahle 82mm 8.5/1 pistons with a 3mm head gasket.
DSM stage 4 injectors 1000cc
Garrett GT3076r with a hks ssq bov, 16psi,
Tuned with a haltec f10x ecu upgrade

vw97jettatdi
10-14-2011, 04:56 PM
This "pinging" you here can also be the camshaft chain. In our cars, the plastic valve cover makes the chain noise sound like a "ping"sound. I have had this checked out, the tensioner was fine. It is just the clearance they have is too small not to make this noise when there is the slightest slack in the chain.

Something to think about anyway.....

I had the same problem, its a common one where the cam chain loosens and slaps on a wear plate due to chain elongation of wear between the chain pin and its links.


wow i know this is a really old post. Ran into pinging or knocking noises a few times with the Beta2 CVVT motors. 3 things have been replace in exact order. Timing CHAIN tensioner went bad, cause chain slap. that was the first time i notice the problems. hyundai/kia puts faulty hydraulic compressors in the tensioner. causing the chain to have free play. simple but cheap temp fix would be putting washers inside the housing, 2/3 will do until you get another part. do not go more than 1k miles on your cars will cause serious damage. 2nd faulty oil pump, run a test if your pressure at idle is below 22.8 psi then you may have knocking when you first start the motor. Also i noticed alot of noise coming from the engine while driving, at very light load the engine would not make a knocking sound. at a moderate or heavy load the engine does make the sound. Something similar to a spun bearing. But bearings when spun knock all the time. Eliminates that problem right there. Low OIL psi can cause your thrust bearings to go bad, and trust me 3rd problem will be your engine not running no more. Thrust bearing going bad will throw off alot of items in your engine. The knocking will become constant, you will suffer from loss of engine power. then almost after you suffer the loss of power , your engine will stop running. Ok i know i put alot there. before you spend lots of money or before you take it to a shop, Check to see if that noise you hear is coming from the top or bottom by revving your engine slightly while under the hood of your car. listen for top or bottom, if its the top. cheap fix, 40/60 dollars at your dealership.. if its the bottom. the best way to treat it , park it and replace the thrust bearings. check the oil psi. and make sure there is no wear on the main bearings in your engine.


Like i said, the chatter "Ping" of the engine can be the chain as mine recently grew this symptom. I know it can be a number of other things but ive narrowed the noise to the valve train, and the consistency of the knocking makes me believe its chain. Ill try and pull off the head and see what i can replace.
Typically im hearing the chain tension-er and wear plate must be replaced and since your removing the valve cover the head gasket needs to be replaced.

Like i said ill try cracking it open, snap some shots and get back with possibly a diagnosis if i don't blow the thing up.
Let me know if anyone can find and DIY instruction manuals on repairing/replacing the timing chain between the DOHC.

Like i said, the chatter "Ping" of the engine can be the chain as mine recently grew this symptom. I know it can be a number of other things but ive narrowed the noise to the valve train, and the consistency of the knocking makes me believe its chain. Ill try and pull off the head and see what i can replace.

Typically the chain, chain tension-er and chain wear plate must be replaced and since your removing the valve cover the head gasket needs to be replaced as well.

Building a DIY for this:
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?42731-Timing-Chain-Repair-Replacment-quot-Clacking-Engine-Noise-quot#post629716

10yr 100,000 mile warranty may cover this chain issue by the way so if your the original owner and fall within this push the dealer first.