Going to fill my motor mounts with urethane, quick question... [Archive] - ElantraXD.com

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Mahonroy

01-20-2006, 12:10 PM

Hello, originally I was planning on taking my front and rear motor mounts completely out, taking out the metal bushing and rubber, filling the resivour with urethane measured at 80 shore (thoughness measurement), drilling a hole in the identicle place, and pressing the bushing back into place then re-installing the motor mounts like in this DIY: http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53419&page=1

I had read about someone with somekind of a DSM or something doing a similar thing with his motor mounts only he used 94 shore, and he said that he believes it to be too stiff and wish he did it using 60 shore (couldn't re-find the link)

Also found this link of a guy doing it with 60 shore: http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204274

Anyways I think the 80 shore is the best choice for this but I have a couple options:

Do I do it like the DIY's above and fill the thing completely with urethane (no factory rubber left) or do I leave the rubber there and put the urethane around the rubber, so it will basically be the same thing as an insert.

Do I fill only the front mount, only the rear mount, or both.

One other thing I noticed was that I asked shark racing what the shore rating was for there urethane inserts and they said its about 94, I on the otherhand have 80 shore, so if I weant with the "insert way" it wouldn't be as strong as the shark racing ones for example.

So what do you guys think would be the best idea for this? Thanks any help is appreatiated!

KeWLKaT

01-20-2006, 01:57 PM

This is what i will do

use the 80 and just fill the front one with the rubber in still. see what happens. if you want more, do the rear.

Also, arent you supposed to be installing your clutch, young man? :)

Cypher

01-20-2006, 02:57 PM

bah just buy new motor mounts :P

FordFasteRR

01-20-2006, 03:04 PM

my only suggestion is this...

let it cure for MORE than 24 hours ... and try and if possible.. under a 100watt light bulb ...

If you do not let it cure, it will explode within a few miles of driving, and then .... you would suck. lol

KeWLKaT

01-20-2006, 03:29 PM

^^^ yeah, that happened to a member here... forgot what his s/n was, but he autocrosses and lives in canada... doesnt come here much anymore.

bmxdad

03-01-2006, 04:43 PM

So ... how did this go? What type of poly did you get, name wise?

I understand there's a two part mixture, but I don't know the name ...

FordFasteRR

03-01-2006, 04:55 PM

So ... how did this go? What type of poly did you get, name wise?

I understand there's a two part mixture, but I don't know the name ...

What are you talking about ?

The kind I have used and heard others talk about is only 1 part and just gets squeezed out of a container...

??

bmxdad

03-01-2006, 05:06 PM

Just found it ...

Go to www.mcmaster-carr.com
Search for: Two-Part Casting Compounds
Select: Urethane Casting Compounds

The stuff comes in different hardnesses or "shore Hardness".

He's a link to a good "Howto" on it.

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204274

Josh HAS

03-01-2006, 05:06 PM

What are you talking about ?

The kind I have used and heard others talk about is only 1 part and just gets squeezed out of a container...

??

I tried this with my Nissan years ago. Keyword "tried". I bought a 2 part kit from McMaster Carr (might of been grainger) I got so fustrated I went to Jim Wolf Tech and bought a new mount. If you decide to do this make sure the mount is sealed extremely well, do it in a place where you dont mind making a mess, and as other have said before give more than 24 hours to cure. Just my .02

Mahonroy

03-01-2006, 10:20 PM

Hey,
Yeah it turned out very well! Here are some pics:

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/t1.jpg

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/t2.jpg

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/t3.jpg

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/t4.jpg

http://www.jattus.com/Performance/t5.jpg

from my site: link (http://www.jattus.com/Performance/elantra6.htm)

I ordered the urethane from www.mcmaster.com part number 8644K11. Its the 80 shore stuff, and in my oppinion when its all cured and I was checking it out, it seems to be the perfect toughness. Here is a pic of what it looks like when it arives at your door:

http://tinypic.com/dlrvc9.jpg

All I did was removed the front and rear motor mounts (the front one is located closest to the bumper, down near the bottom of the radiator cooling fans. The rear one is located in the same spot just on the other side inbetween the block/tranny and the firewall) they can be a pain to remove as some of the bolts had lock tight on them when installed to prevent them vibrating loose, but its really not a problem at all to remove them (took me prolly 30 minuets total to get both mounts out of the car).

Then what I did was I cleaned the rubber that was already there, then tapped up one side of the motor mount (on one of the motor mounts I ised wide masking tape, and on the other one I tried using electrical tape) just taped it up to seal the bottom portion so when I fill the other side with the liqued urethane it won't leak out the bottom, I just taped it around from the bottom of the metal bushing right next to the rubber, extended out to the case. One thing I noticed was that after I filled them with urethane and set them to dry, the masking tape held up fine, but the electrical tape leaked like crazy, so I would personally recommend the masking tape. I let it cure for a couple of days, removed the tape (the tape just peals right off) and re-installed them. I was surprised thinking that the car was going to vibrate like mad afterwards but its not what I expected at all, deffinetly does not vibrate that much harder, and once the engine is reving the vibration is gone.

All in all I would deffinetly recommend doing it, you could even go with a higher shore value (since I basically made the equivelent as an motor mount insert, you could probably even try a little bit stiffer urethane, but the 80 was still good) and I have yet to have my intake manifold smack up against my firewall under boost.

bmxdad

03-10-2006, 04:54 PM

I'm looking to do some R&D on this two part poly. I was wondering if there are any used motor-mounts in the Tacoma, Washington area. I'll repour the mount and give it back, only if you keep me enformed on how they perform. I'll even do it long distance. just ship them to me with return shipping and I'll remake them.

Any one interested? I'm not selling anything, just some R&D.

If this is a no no on the forum, let me know who to talk to.

bmxdad

03-22-2006, 11:11 PM

just checking ... looking for some used mounts to rebuild

cclngthr

03-23-2006, 12:12 AM

Ben Davis

04-07-2006, 10:07 PM

I did this years ago with my Nissans. Highly recommend it. About the best bang for the buck drivability mod you can do for a car with a manual. I like REALLY tight mounts so I would always use the 94 shore. You can use 3M Window Weld as well and it is available at your corner auto parts store in a tube. I don't like it as much personally because it takes longer to cure. The 94 shore stuff is ready overnight.

The big thing though that I have yet to master - sealing it well enough the first time. Duct tape doesn't cut it. Need to find something more liquid-tight.

Oh - and what does this post have to do with Forced Induction and Nitrous? :)

Mahonroy

04-08-2006, 02:53 AM

Oh - and what does this post have to do with Forced Induction and Nitrous? :)

Because motor mounts are needed with turbo setup such as mine because the intake manifold smacks against the firewall if you dont...

I tried one motor mount with electrical tape and one with masking tape, the electrical tape leaked like hell, the masking tape worked perfectly...