Turbo Project Started.

[yamaha]

Nothing major, just putting header wrap on the manifold, downpipe, and charge piping. Pics:

http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/t1.bmp

http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/t2.bmp

[05xd]

Nice,nice.How much power are you looking at getting with this set-up you got

[yamaha]

Fixed, dunno why they werent showing up.

[Keyan]

When are you installing it?

[yamaha]

Last weekend in February.

[Estopatitiana]

10 psi im guessing is around 200 whp? or mo

[yamaha]

Actually 7psi daily driven, 12psi for dicking around.

[4mynikka]

Actually 7psi daily driven, 12psi for dicking around.


is 12psi the highest you'll go? :D

[KeWLKaT]

Looks cool.

Good luck in the instal, hopefully tims **** wont blow in your hands like it happened to a couple of ppl out there! :)

[yamaha]

Looks cool.

Good luck in the instal, hopefully tims **** wont blow in your hands like it happened to a couple of ppl out there! :)

Tim has been helping people and I trust him fully. Should be fun.

is 12psi the highest you'll go? :D

12psi is the highest I will go. I'll throw it up to 14psi at the track and see what she can do, remember, automatic. :)

[SilverBullet]

is 12psi the highest you'll go? :D

three words, Front Wheel Drive....

[DAILLESTWUN]

Looks great, ya gotta start somewhere...Good luck with the install...keep us updated.....

[erikgsi]

front wheel drive has nothing to do with it. have you not seen the vids of the 400whp tib? and the several 700+ in korea (all front wheel drive)

[GodisintheTV]

ok then 14 + psi = two words. blown motor.
i dont think hes upgraded the internals at all. i could be wrong though i dont think his engine could take that

good luck with the install man. its gonna be awesome. auto representin. :D

[yamaha]

I will be installing a decompression plate and running 7psi daily and 10-12psi at the track to see what I can do. Ill run 14psi for ONE pass, nothing more.

[Mahonroy]

ok then 14 + psi = two words. blown motor.
I have mine go up to 15psi all the time on stock internals and it works perfectly fine.

[GodisintheTV]

I have mine go up to 15psi all the time on stock internals and it works perfectly fine.

well your just the man like that :D

[jrod13]

I have mine go up to 15psi all the time on stock internals and it works perfectly fine.
It will only take it for so long though. How much power are you pushing. You are running the TD04 right? If I remember right it is a stock one off the older DSM's

[05xd]

It will only take it for so long though. How much power are you pushing. You are running the TD04 right? If I remember right it is a stock one off the older DSM's
Thats why you always have another engine around.
Back on topic-Are you starting this project this weekend?

[yamaha]

UPS lost the original manifold, Tim apparently made another one, and is supposed to send it, but is not returning calls. :(

[05xd]

Dang man,that isn't good.I hope things work out for you in a timely manner.

[TSmooth8403]

Anybody have a diagram of a turbo setup for the elantra?

[KeWLKaT]

Man I hate to say I told you so yamaha.


And the other guy...

diagram... wtf

dud do you know what you're talking about? lol

standard way of putting it on a frontal exhaust I4 really....

[cbehage]

Man I hate to say I told you so yamaha.


And the other guy...

diagram... wtf

dude do you know what you're talking about? lol

http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/cbdrawring.JPG

keep calling man, he'll get you your stuff (in a couple months)

seriosly, I hope everything is cool



FIXED THE DIAGRAM

[KeWLKaT]

LOL

you forgot the charge pipes ;)

[yamaha]

I talked to his wife or something. Apparently he was out of town, I'll be calling again on Monday.

[KeWLKaT]

^^^ LOL I remember when evan had to do that to get to contact him.

Anyhow man, I hate to say this, but.... told ya so :(

[yamaha]

I know, I'm a hopeful person though. Im going to still call until I get ahold of him. I'm glad I didn't buy everything from him though.

[robs02elantra]

[standing ovation] man, that's one sweet diagram!! [/standing ovation]

[yamaha]

Talked to Tim, he said the manifold was shipping out yesterday. I haven't recieved a tracking number yet...

[KeWLKaT]

Damn man.... Good luck :(

[JonGTR]

Talked to Tim, he said the manifold was shipping out yesterday. I haven't recieved a tracking number yet...
Great. Can you have him call me too? :rolleyes:

[only1db]

LOL

you forgot the charge pipes ;)


they are black....in the backround :D

yeah a pretty cool diagram ;)

[yamaha]

Got that tracking number, now all I need to do is buy the fuel pump and I will be good to go. I won't be installing the decompression plate initially, I'm still debating on letting someone else do that.

[Mahonroy]

Yeah I know what ya mean about the decompression plate lol I was the same way, after doing it though I am glad that I did it myself for several reasons:
1. You save a lot of money that you can now use on other upgrades that you see fit.
2. Only cost is new head bolts (about 50 bucks?), and if you don't feel like re-using your coolant then new coolant and oil, so you get an oil change out of the deal as well.
3. The learning experience alone is worth it and you won't be afraid of tearing into your car so much afterwards.
4. You know its being done the "right" way, lots of mechanics will try and take short cuts in doing the job so they still get payed for the hours that it didn't take them...I have spoke to a lot of my buddy mechanics and lots of them cut corners on the head gasket, for example instead of completely removing the head, and spending the right about of time cleaning off the gunk properly thats on the top of the block and the bottom of the head, cleaning the top of the pistons off, taking care not to get the gunk down the oil and coolant flow areas, etc. lots of them will just keep everything attached and lift the head up a couple inches enough to slide the head gasket out, stick some 2x4's in there to hold it up, jam a scraper in there to try and scrape the gunk out, then lay down a new head gasket, and boom, job is done at like a third of the time, they still get payed for it, and you now have a head gasket that had a ****ty installation.

I would recommend doing it yourself personally, only specialty tool you need is a torque wrench, even if you weant out and baught all the tools you needed you would still get the job done cheaper, better, and now you have more tools for next time you want to work on your car. Just my 2 cents :D

[yamaha]

Well, a friend of my father's is a mechanic and I trust him completely. If I was paying someone to do it, it would be him. I would also be helping with it. I would love to do it, but will most likely get the turbo installed and then install the decompression plate later. His labor cost is 40 and hour which is not bad by any means.

I have all the tools I need and the garage space to do it. Time is no issue, I'm just afraid I would mess somehting up. This is my daily driver, and I will have a Santa Fe to drive while I am doing this, but I would like the car to be down for minimal time, a week at most from install to tuning.

How long did it take you to do your install Mahonroy. If you could please shoot out some tips and any problems your ran into would be greatly appreciated.

Sean

[Mahonroy]

Well, lol, took me about a week to install 100% everything which is a lot longer than it should have taken me, mostly because I was being extra carefull and had a bunch of uncertainties (at this time I vurtually had no experience working on cars, thats why it took me soo long)...
hmm, tips:
For doing the head gasket there is a lot of things that need to be disconnected, especially harness connectors, so while you are unplugging connectors I would write down on a piece of paper exactly which ones you unconnected, so when you go to re-connect them you won't miss any, also a problem I had was when I placed the head back onto the block I didn't make sure all the harnesses were out of the way, so got the head completely installed back in to find out I had sandwitched a harness connector inbetween something and the intake manifold, at this point taking the head back off wasn't an option so I thought I was going to have to mutalate the connector to get it off, then re-pair it from there...after about an hour of fussing with it I was able to get it off...
When doing the timing belt set it to top dead center, and put a mark through the belt and the timing belt gear so you can see where it had lined up before...just remember that when you install the head gasket the head is going to be lifted up higher than normal, so you will need to advance/retard the timing slightly to get the belt back on...
Also before you start pulling pullies off take close attention to how tight they are on, make somekind of a measurement, count how many times you loosen the nut to make the belt loose, etc. so you know how tight to make it when putting everything back together...my belts still slip to this day when I start up the car and when I crank on the steering wheel a lot.
Also in my situation, I would highly recommend putting the coupler on the turbo inlet and outlet and securing it with a hose clamp before installing it...I would also recommend having the exhaust manifold, turbo, and downpipe all put together before you install that also because once its in the car stuff is hard to access such as bolts...you may need to remove the radiator to make room also, especially if you are drilling a hole in the block for the oil return you need a lot of room to get a hand drill in there...you will even need to move the refrigerant radiator out of the way but "IMPORTANT" don't disconnect any hoses comming out of it as you will discharge the refrigerant and you will need to get your A/C re-charged if you do, plus the gas that comes out is toxic as hell, just simply get it disconnected from the car and move it up out of the way without disconnecting any lines from it (I had mine hanging from a bungi coard)...

hmm..what else...
oh once the head spacer is in, things like your power steering bracket won't line back up so you can either not put in the last bolt to secure it, or dremel the hole accordingly like I did so you can then put a bolt back in...depending on your setup you also may even need to cut off a part of your motor mount for clearence, I ended up doing it but it turned out it wasn't necissary, but it was no problem.

Also removing the brass plug from the head (for the oil resivour, for the turbo oil feed) was a big pain in the ***, they say a torx 35 or something fits in but I weant to over 10 stores checking if they had it and they only have 30 or 40, but not 35 (I think its non existant personally) pretty much anything you stick in there that you think makes a good fit won't and it will just end up stripping out...some people say to heat it up using a torch, or to do it when the engine was just turned off (carefull of hot oil though...)... I used an easy out bit to remove mine and it worked just fine.

Also make sure you have the torque specifications for the head, they have to be taken out a certain way (basically a certain increment of loosening in an outward pattern from the center, otherwise supposedly its possible to crack the head or block), don't re-use the head bolts that you remove because they stretch and are intended on a one time use...when putting in the new headbolts also be sure to put a thin coat of oil on them (whatever oil you intend on running through your engine, just take the bolts and dip them in the oil to get a coat of oil on them) before installing them.

If I think of some more stuff I'll post it lol :D

[cbehage]

So how did you get the coupler clamped on the turbo. (same problem.)

Your advice is great. I had the sam probs. like trying to bolt the turbo dump pipe on from underneath the car.

It is also hard to get the gasket sealer on evenly when it is on the car.

Definatley put the turbo, mani, dp, oil lines, and water lines together first. then drop it all in as one piece.

[Cypher]

so you defintely need new head bolts?

[Keyan]

so you defintely need new head bolts?

Yes, when you torque a bolt down, in essence what you are doing is stretching the bolt in the hole, giving it a clamping force because it wants to return to normal. well bolts can only go so far before they become perminantly stretched and / or snap. The head bolts are some of the "higher torqued :: metal strength" ratios in the car and the bolts will always stretch (or atleast that's how i understand it to be) so you should always replace the head bolts when unbolting the head :)

OOOooooooooo check it out, I'm useful. haha.

[Mahonroy]

Just remembered another issue I had when removing head bolts... the bolts take some kind of a hex, and you need to be able to attach this hex to a torque wrench so get a socket version of it...the problem I had was that there is mold flashing that was sticking out far enough to prevent me getting the tool in there to get it seated in the top of the bolts, I had to go through like 3 hex tools until I got one skinny enough to get around the mold flashing (if it wasn't clear I am talking about when you cast something, near the seam the metal leaks out leaving a sheet of metal, there was a pretty decent amount of this unfortunetly)