OK, so i decided to change my timing belt on my 02 Elantra GLS this past weekend as I am at 94,000 miles and had never changed any of the accessory belts let alone the timing belt. I decided I would change all three accessory belts (Power Steering, Air Conditioning and water/Alternator), the timing belt, the timing belt tensioner, and the water pump if I was going to have everything apart anyway. This should ensure I will not have to go back in there until I get rid of the car (should go another 94,000 miles). Note to those who would say I was negligent in not changing the timing belt sooner, belt wear is most often associated with age rather than mileage. Since recommended belt change is at 60K miles which based on the average driving rate of 12K miles a year, a timing belt should last 5 years regardless of mileage. (My belt still looked in great shape when I took it off).

I bought all Hyundai OEM parts which cost about 250 bucks from my dealer for the water pump, gasket, timing belt, tensioner, and three accessory belts. OEM is more expensive but nothing beets OEM in terms of guaranteed fit and function...they designed the car after all.

To anyone debating whether they can do this themselves, if you can turn a wrench and take your time, you can do it. This was by far the biggest job I have ever done and I only had hand tools (no air tools) and I was able to do this with only a few snags. Took me a day and a half to finish the job. This included stopping to celebrate St. Patricks day with some green beer and also replacing a wheel stud that broke off when removing the tire (Thanks to Dennis Hyundai of Dublin for crossthreading the damn lugnut when they did my alignment last month....F___kers!)

There have been several other installs posted so I'll hit the highlights (snags) of my experience and try to provide some tips.

1. Take your time and remove as much stuff as you can. It will take some extra time but the extra space to work in will make the actual timing belt job easier and quicker. I took out the entire radiator assembly (I had to drain coolant for the water pump any way) and the Alternator. I unbolted the P/S pump and pushed it to the side. See the amount of room to work in when this stuff is gone below:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7023/dscn06720yh.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6018/dscn06746ys.jpg

2. Removing the engine mount: You have to remove this anyway in order to change the belt but you can also use this to your advantage. I put a jack with a large baord under the oil pan and took off the mount. However, once the mount is off, you can jack the engine up higher to access things easier such as the water pump pulley bolts or drop it all the way down (to the point the jack no longer supports it...it will not fall) to access the crack pulley easier.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5607/dscn06796xa.jpg
Engine jacked up with Engine Mount Removed


3.First Snag I hit was trying to remove the Crank Shaft Pulley. I was able to get the crank shaft pulley bolt off easily by using this method. Put a socket with a breaker bar on the bolt and lay the breaker bar end on the forward car frame. Pull the Fuel Pump Fuse and quickly crank the engine with the ignition. Since the engine rotates clockwise, it should pop the bolt right out...mine did. However, once the bolt was out, the pulley would not budge off the shaft. After an hour of tugging, pulling, hitting and cursing... I posted in this forum for help and was told to use a pulley puller. Got one the next day and it came right off in two mintues....SWEET! Another tip for the crank pulley is for the reinstallation. Fitting the pulley back on the shaft can be tight. If you soak the pulley in hot water for 20 minutes prior to installing, it will expand enough that putting it back on the shaft and lining it up with the key will be a snap.

http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/3316/009469030009fi.jpg
Gear Puller

4. People fret too much about screwing up the timing when replacing the belt. Just be careful and you will be fine. There is no need to place the engine at Top Dead Center as HMA and other people say. Just mark the cam sprocket, belt and engine block at the same place and then do the same to the crack sprocket. Take the belt off, tranfer these markings to the new belt making sure you have the same number of grooves between the markings, put the new belt on and line all the markings up again. The cam and crank sprockets DO NOT rotate easily...they will not just rotate out of place on their own. Also, before removing the old belt, take a picture of the timing belt tensioner. It has a center bolt hole with an offset keyhole for adding tension. By knowing where (i.e. 5 o clock) the offset hole is, you can set the tension on the new belt by rotating the timing belt tensioner to the same position so the offset hole is back at the same position.

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/7583/dscn06819qj.jpg
Cam Sprocket Markings

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/613/dscn06829jf.jpg
Crank Shaft Markings

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/1148/dscn06835mp.jpg
Old and New Timing Belt Tensioners (New is on the left)

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/8603/dscn06895pe.jpg
Old and new Timing Belts (New is on the right)

5. Water Pump: This is such an easy thing to do while everything is opened up, it would be stupid not to do it.Once all the bolts are removed, just tap it with a hammer and it will begin to pop off. Have a bucket handy as the coolant that is trapped in the engine will drain right down the side of the engine. The old pumped looked in good shape but I'm sure it would not last another 94K miles. Use a drill with wire brush or dremel with similar attachment to remove old gasket material...this is important for good seal. Use permatex on both sides of the new gasket. This job is a piece of cake if you already have everything else opened up for the timing belt.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2059/dscn06848nq.jpg
Coolant draing from Pump

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3362/dscn06850hm.jpg
Old and new pumps (new pump on right)

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/489/dscn06871yb.jpg
Mounting surface before removing old gasket

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/2862/dscn06909zl.jpg
Pump and new timing belt installed

Everthing went back together as easy as pie. I would definately try this again if I have another vehicle requiring this.

This should be a DIY for sure, very good write up...perhaps that would be a good time to upgrade fans, rad, pulleys

This was the first time I saw this. Now that I finally have my toolset, I think I just might try doing this myself. I still need to get a good jack and some jack stands.

Being that my driveway is at a slight slope (maybe less than 15% grade), do you think it would be safe enough to jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands and also put some wheel chocks in the rear wheels?

well...seeing this i dont feel so uncomfortable trying to fix my car this week

This was the first time I saw this. Now that I finally have my toolset, I think I just might try doing this myself. I still need to get a good jack and some jack stands.

Being that my driveway is at a slight slope (maybe less than 15% grade), do you think it would be safe enough to jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands and also put some wheel chocks in the rear wheels?


thats always a plus...you can never be too careful

do you think it would be safe enough or do jack stands have to be on a completely level surface?

Awesome write-up ... thanks for all the great information. One thing I would do first is quick cleaning of the engine so you don't get quite as filthy doing the work. I'm guessing you saved yourself about $250 versus having the work done for you. I know my dealership will be charging me $365 for just the timing belt service/water pump. Then there are the accessory belts. I wish manufacturers would just use a dang chain. If they are going to use a belt, I think they should extend the requirement for the belt change ... I know plenty of people who push 100,000 miles on their timing belts. The dealership probably wants it done at 60,000 so they can still get all the bolts and pulleys off easier.

Top notch write-up......

I waited till 100,000 one my gls and 230,000 on a nother lantra ...

Very good wright up. But I must say that I would still put the engine at TDC. Even though the crank nor camshaft may not move, why chance it? And not to mention the new belt is pre marked for the timing marks on the crank and camshaft for proper alignment when the timeing marks on the crank and cam are lined up with their respective alignment marks on the head and block.

In order to remove the crank shaft pulley, without using an breaker bar will the only other option be to use an impact wrench?

yeah, but the breaker bar one is easy if you dont have air tools. put the socket on with the breaker bar on the arm that connects to the knuckle, and turn the engine. it hits the bar and pops the nut right off

WOW, after looking at your pics, I can see how easy it is. LOL
I am not ever going to change my timing belt.
I was going to trade in my Elantra last year when I bought my Scion, but the dealer offered me only $1,600. I figured I would keep the Elantra as a spare car rather then trade it. So if the car breaks down and the cost is too much, it will end up in the junk pile......

yeah, but the breaker bar one is easy if you dont have air tools. put the socket on with the breaker bar on the arm that connects to the knuckle, and turn the engine. it hits the bar and pops the nut right off

But DO ENSURE you PULL the fuel pump fuse first. The engine must not be able to start, just a quick spin.

Just adding this, evan, in case someone missed it in the first post.

^It would be better to pull the ignition fuse. There might be enough residual fuel pressure to allow the engine to start for a second.

or you could pull the plug wires.. no chance of it starting even with residual pressure and unless you changed those recently, why not go for those while your in there and in the mechanical mood.

Thats definitely next for me since I'm up tp 150k miles on my 01 Elantra , but I have this one problem (read jinx) every time I have the belt change my Elantras usually will break them within a month . This has happened twice to my two 92 Elantras so I've just been pulling the top belt cover ever so often and inspecting the belt .

It is likely that the belt was improperly tensioned, causing premature failure. Inspecting the belt is a risky, risky thing to do, because belts that look like new can still fail. If it were a non-interference motor, sure go for it. But why risk lunching your valves, or worse.

Before assembling the cover etc back on the motor, you should be able to turn it over(start) to insure proper timing. Do not rev since motor mount is not connected. Short run will do the trick, saves lotsa tear down if timing is wrong.

Crank pulley can be held with a chain wrench (18'' or longer) and wedged against the subframe to prevent turning. Avoids risk of starter motor method.
Ingersoll Rand twin hammer 500 foot pound impact wrench would not break loose my 21 mm crank bolt. Used 3/4" drive Johnson bar and extension.
Jack stand should not be put directly under oil pan , aluminum bends easily and the oil pump pickup could lose flow.

Jack stand should not be put directly under oil pan , aluminum bends easily and the oil pump pickup could lose flow.

Never had a problem doing that. Just put a piece of wood to distribute the weight. it's not 1/18'' aluminium for god's sakes... And it's not supporting the engine weight in it's entirety either, just a fracition, as you still have 3 out of 4 motor mounts on it.

Looking at that guys tensioner I cant get over how slack his timing belt is...wft did I do wrong during my install for it to be so tight.

I used a Dayco belt from Parts Source and it looks to be about the same tension as the pictures. My local dealer are a real pain and I hate dealing with them. Idler and tensioner are GMB off Autopartdway.ca. The belts do stretch a bit with age.

I have the Alpine decompression plate in but mine is so much tighter than that.

I used a Dayco belt from Parts Source and it looks to be about the same tension as the pictures. My local dealer are a real pain and I hate dealing with them. Idler and tensioner are GMB off Autopartdway.ca. The belts do stretch a bit with age.

everyone freaks out about off-brand timing belts... but:

dayco = autozone "duralast" and advance auto parts' brand

also, carquest and "gatorback" are goodyear-made belts with their brand on them

(gatorback is available at NAPA, carquest, autozone and advance)

so like I've said before, they really aren't all that different. I think it's just a mixture of bad luck and rumors/paranoia. I'm sure if you buy a really ****ty belt your engine will suffer, but the goodyear and dayco belts have been sold for years. you would think if it was such a big problem that the companies would take care of it.

the problem is that more often than not aftermarket belts are not EXACTLY the same as the OEM ones from the dealer.

I see you used sticky yellow snot to hold the new WP gasket in place. I do the same thing.

its alot easier then how he did it...

i've done the complete job in just under an hour.

Never had a problem doing that. Just put a piece of wood to distribute the weight. it's not 1/18'' aluminium for god's sakes... And it's not supporting the engine weight in it's entirety either, just a fracition, as you still have 3 out of 4 motor mounts on it.

Exactly. There really is no other way to do it unless you wanna whip out a cherry picker everytime you need to jack the engine up a bit!

WOW! It cost you 250 to buy all the parts, it would cost me 280 to get it done by a machanic. Anyway, well done.

^they probably did not replace the water pump...being as the water pump is covered under the 10/100,000 you dont have to...

its alot easier then how he did it...

i've done the complete job in just under an hour.

and what job is that? i know you're not talking about the complete timing belt job.

actually i am...we timed it...very little actually has tobe removed to do it.

and the lc accent i banged out in 45min.

lol, the last time I changed my oil, it took me almost an hour... the guy who changed it last time tightened the drain bolt and the oil filter like a friggen gorilla.

I would allow at least an entire afternoon for a project like this one. Good luck my fellow xders who are brave enough to tackle something like this in their apartment parking lot or on the street by the curb (which is what I'll be doing when the time comes around... :( ).

very little actually has tobe removed to do it.




Yeah, the only thin that needs to come out is the mount and the timing cover. The alternator and radiator is completely unnecessary.

Yeah, the only thin that needs to come out is the mount and the timing cover. The alternator and radiator is completely unnecessary.

I am pretty sure the only reason he took it out was to to the water pump. But like it was said, its covered under warranty. When I did mine at 90,000km the pump was still in perfect shape, no reason to take the water pump or rad out. The belt itself isnt that hard.

it still takes time to get to everything.

I don't know if the info is posted somewhere else, but I couldn't find it here. the top dead center IS more useful and proper than using a sharpie to mark the points where the old belt lines up... say you turn one of the cranks 180 degrees... there goes your engine (even if you used a sharpie)

there are white marks on the cranks and there is a little hole on the top one that lines up to a red dot behind it. the white marks on the top one line up parallel to the edge of the head/block.

I didn't have a chilton's manual or access to the internet at the garage where we were doing the belt + stuff, so I tightened it a little much and it made a slight squealing as it turned... a little adjustment cleared this up and it's actually quieter than before I changed the belt at all.

so, 90,500 miles and new timing belt! the old one didn't even look too bad.

PS: 1) I'm half awake typing this, sorry for errors, and 2) I used the Goodyear gatorsomething belt ($59?) because I couldn't find any place in town all weekend that had the hyundai OEM belt in-stock and I don't feel like waiting. everyones going to chew me out for it but I think goodyear would be worrying if their belts caused a ton of elantra's engines to blow up! it was EXACTLY like the hyundai belt except newer and made in america by goodyear. the pulley and tensioner I got from carquest. total cost including pizza and a 12 pack of mt. dew was about $150.

Exactly. There really is no other way to do it unless you wanna whip out a cherry picker everytime you need to jack the engine up a bit!

Jack stand can be put under tranny bellhousing , or a few other spots along the side of the engine.
Never had a car with an aluminum oilpan and I didn't plan on testing it's strength. But now that someone's tried it I'll use wood and jack :bowdown: stand next time.

yeah i guess the advantage of being on the lift with air tools is an advantage.

i also just use a floor jack on the pan.

Jack stand can be put under tranny bellhousing , or a few other spots along the side of the engine.
Never had a car with an aluminum oilpan and I didn't plan on testing it's strength. But now that someone's tried it I'll use wood and jack :bowdown: stand next time.


True, but it won't be as easy to lift the right side of the motor when the jack is on the middle/left side of the car (tranny). And the bell housing is aluminum as well. People have been doing the wood-on-jack stand forever. I never lift on any part of the engine or tranny without a wood block on the stand or jack even it the pan is steel. It just feels wrong.

Heres a question, mostly for the guys who work at the dealerships. The timing marks that are on the lower timing belt cover, can someone take picture of this, as well as the marks on the block and post em up. This way if someone wants to do their own timing belt then they know exactly where to set the white mark on the timing belt sprocket and what things look like on the cover when its at TDC and put back together.

The guy was right about lining up the marks per the service manual instructions.

For every 360 degree rotation of the crank, the cam rotates 180 degrees. In other words, the crank revolves at twice the revolutions of the cams. So, the crank pulley will pass a specific mark two times to the camshaft's one revolution.

So, there is a 50/50 chance that your crank pulley is lined up correctly. The #1 piston can be at TDC of its compression or its exhaust (edit) stroke. That's the biggie. Which one is it at? How sure are you? Are you willing to chance a motor?

That's why following the timing marks are imperative.

that's what I said... just because you line it up doesn't mean it isn't upside down...

going from memory here, but I believe there are white and red marks. you can line up the one on the sprocket with the one on the block (it's behind it, you can see it through one of the holes).

yes there is a red notch on the head that can be seen through the hole on the cam sprocket, and also a white one on the block that is to be lined up with the white line on the timing belt sprocket.

Once the lower timing belt cover goes on there are a few marks BTDC 10, BTDC and one other I believe. This is why I asked for someone who worked at a dealership to take a few pictures of the sprocket set to TDC and also with the lower cover on. This would really help some in identifying things properly.

When I do my timing belt, I'll try and take those pics.

PS: 1) I'm half awake typing this, sorry for errors, and 2) I used the Goodyear gatorsomething belt ($59?) the pulley and tensioner I got from carquest. total cost including pizza and a 12 pack of mt. dew was about $150.

Whoa! I got a kit including the belt, tensioner, and idler, for $67.

The brand is Gates....which is all the shop has been installing in the last 15 years my dad has owned it. It fit perfectly.
Here's what the kit looked like.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/zx2uner/mirrorbelt004.jpg

So if anyone needs one....let me know and I can get you one...with the shop discount....lol.

The guy was right about lining up the marks per the service manual instructions.

For every 360 degree rotation of the crank, the cam rotates 180 degrees. In other words, the crank revolves at twice the revolutions of the cams. So, the crank pulley will pass a specific mark two times to the camshaft's one revolution.

So, there is a 50/50 chance that your crank pulley is lined up correctly. The #1 piston can be at TDC of its compression or its power stroke. That's the biggie. Which one is it at? How sure are you? Are you willing to chance a motor?

That's why following the timing marks are imperative.

You're joking, right? If the mark on the crank is lined up, and the mark on the cam is lined up, then it's fine. And it won't be TDC of the compression or power, it will be compression or exhaust. But it doesn't matter, because compression vs exhaust stroke isn't determined by the piston, it's determined by the valve.

as long as the marks are lined up it doesnt matter which way it goes....line them up and pull the belt...the only reason to line it up is that it stays in place while the belt is off...

now if for some reason you put the head at the mark and the bottom moves...then just back it up a little or move it forward...your not going to hurt anything...just as long as you move it...

also to add...there is also a mark on the crank sprocket (when the lower cover is off) there is a mark on the sprocket and a white mark (at about 10 o clock...

also putting a block of wood on the jack and using the pan is fine...as long as you dont over extend and crush the pan...the pan can handle it...

Whoa! I got a kit including the belt, tensioner, and idler, for $67.

The brand is Gates....which is all the shop has been installing in the last 15 years my dad has owned it. It fit perfectly.
Here's what the kit looked like.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/zx2uner/mirrorbelt004.jpg

So if anyone needs one....let me know and I can get you one...with the shop discount....lol.

I'll probably hit you up soon, my timing belt is due for a change and that looks like a good deal to me.

I'll probably hit you up soon, my timing belt is due for a change and that looks like a good deal to me.

I owe you for the sig anyway.....let me know.

I got my goodyear belt and tensioner/idler (carquest brand) for about that price. marking on the belt with a sharpie = bad way to do it. lining up the red and white marks hyundai made on the car = the right way to do it.

from what i see in those pics the crank sprocket marks were off alignment so was the cam. and that pulley should be keyed ( i dont really remember since ive been doing only 2.7 and 2.4 belts latly) and hope you checked after belt was on that it didnt move with that ecentric tensioner it slips if you dont eliminate the slck on the inside.

For those that think I did this the wrong way, f'ed it up, or should have done it a different way, I'd like to relay that I have since hit 130,000 miles on the car putting over 40,000 miles on the belt without a hick up. The entire car for that matter has run flawlessly. Hell, I'm still on the original clutch, original rear drum brakes (they only had 1mm of wear when I checked them the other day). I plan to take her another 70,000 with no problems (except probably the clutch). So all this pissy infighting about doing it this way or that doesn't mean jack crap. As long as you do it in a way to get the end result, it will work. The point is tomake sure you do it before the belt breaks : )

I think the reason people are saying to do it the right way is because doing it the right way means it will definitely work, where as doing it any other way means it probably won't work for long.

sure your way worked but it doesn't mean some random guy doing it that way is going to get the same results.

in short, there's a reason we don't use vice grips, screwdrivers and sledge hammers for everything. there is a right way and a correct tool for everything.

You're joking, right? If the mark on the crank is lined up, and the mark on the cam is lined up, then it's fine. And it won't be TDC of the compression or power, it will be compression or exhaust. But it doesn't matter, because compression vs exhaust stroke isn't determined by the piston, it's determined by the valve.

Sorry, yeah. I meant exhaust. Thanks for the correction.

in short, there's a reason we don't use vice grips, screwdrivers and sledge hammers for everything. there is a right way and a correct tool for everything.


**** i have been doing it all wrong then....


like mentioned there is a right way and another way that will work...but the right way is 100% guaranteed.:D

At that high of a millage mileage what ever...... One should also consider replacing the cam and crank seals.

Ken

Question: did you use a 4" or 6" gear puller?

Hi I just tried the DIY and ran in to a few problems,

1) how do you tighten the pulley bolt that you use the starter to break free? Considering I don't have air tools

2) does it mater which direction the timing belt is installed?

Hi I just tried the DIY and ran in to a few problems,

1) how do you tighten the pulley bolt that you use the starter to break free? Considering I don't have air tools

2) does it mater which direction the timing belt is installed?

Well i know for a fact if you get a OEM timing belt, it is a directional belt....

well the only way I can think to tighten the crank pully nose bolt is to take the starter out and jam a screwdriver in the flywheel.
You can really damage the engine if the bolt is off torque I would recomend editing this DIY. I am really curious how everyone solved this problem. Even with impact you don't want to just blast the nose bolt tight.:eek:

and make sure if you do that starter trick that all the engine mounts are in... the DIY implies you take the mount off first

Hi I just tried the DIY and ran in to a few problems,

1) how do you tighten the pulley bolt that you use the starter to break free? Considering I don't have air tools

2) does it mater which direction the timing belt is installed?


To tighten the crank pulley bolt, I used a breaker bar, but I enlisted the help of a friend who stepped on the brake (after putting the car in gear). I also tightened up all the belts that were attached the the crank pulley and held the other pullies in place... after about 20 mins of almost breaking my back... it was nice and tight.


Question though: Is it possible to do this DIY without taking the crank pulley off? (I'm thinking no... :( )

My OBX pulley was a real pain in the @$$ to put on, I'm thinking it's going to be even harder to get off.

To tighten the crank pulley bolt, I used a breaker bar, but I enlisted the help of a friend who stepped on the brake (after putting the car in gear). I also tightened up all the belts that were attached the the crank pulley and held the other pullies in place... after about 20 mins of almost breaking my back... it was nice and tight.


Question though: Is it possible to do this DIY without taking the crank pulley off? (I'm thinking no... :( )

My OBX pulley was a real pain in the @$$ to put on, I'm thinking it's going to be even harder to get off.

This only works on a manual trans, any ideas for an automatic?

Big Impact. Worked for me.

I too used a good impact wrench. no need to do weird stuff like use the starter to turn it.

the proper way to tighten the crank pulley bolt is to remove the starter

this can be reached from under the car with 2 bolts

then push a large screwdriver into the ring gear and get someone else to torque the pulley bolt to 130 foot lbs

just hitting with an impact gun could easily over tighten

To tighten the crank pulley don't use an impact gun it can cause damage to the motor. It needs to be set at 130 foot pounds by holding a screw driver on the ring gear, the ring gear is easily accessed through the starter hole :hammer:

Will one of these electric impact wrenches take off that crank pulley bolt:


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100051497

I'm thinking about doing the timing belt myself, but don't have a compressor.

I didn't remove the radiator on my timming belt / waterpump install....
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/maintenance-help/81456-2004-elantra-timing-belt-waterpump-pix.html

i didn't remove the radiator to change my timming belt....
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/maintenance-help/81456-2004-elantra-timing-belt-waterpump-pix.html

I'm in the middle of chaging timing belt. All the accessory belts are off. Now I'm stuck with crank pulley. I was going to try chain wrench method, so I bought 20" chain wrench because somebody mentioned 18" or longer. Damn, 20" is short for the crank pulley. Need something like 24". I know I can try starter trick without ignition, but it concerns me when it comes to tight the bolt. I have automatic. Is there any way that I can take the crank pulley bolts out and in other than removing starter? Would stepping on the brake in drive gear work in automatic too?

EDIT:

Done the complete job with 24" chain wrench. Took 8 hours total. I think it will take like 5 hours if I do it again. :)

Went to worldpartsexpress.com and they have OEM parts, but for 03-06 they list timing chains and timing chain guides...does the CVVT engine have a chain and not a belt?

Anyone plan on making a definitive DIY for the forum?

WHAT IS THE COMPLETE PARTS LIST OF WHAT YOU NEED INCLUDING PULLEYS/BELTS FOR THE AC/PS/ETC?

I don't know about the CVVT, but non-CVVT has timing chain too. Timing chain is on the opposite side of the timing belt. They are two different parts and timing chain does not require frequent change like belt. So what you need to buy is timing belt kit. It consist of timing belt, tensioner, and idler. For serpentine belts, you need Alt/PS/AC belts. You don't need to buy any pulleys unless it's failing. Gates makes Hyundai OEM timing belts. So I bought gates kit.

I read this posting and whiteshark's posting thoroughly until everything starts to make sense. Another posting that is helpful is by evan:

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15290&highlight=belt

Those three postings are about all you will need.

I am actually dreading the day when it comes time to do this.

^Why? Its not a hard thing to do. I did mine in 3 hrs the first time I did it. I could probably do it in 2 hrs now.

Just a lot to take off and to go wrong like knocking it out of alignment. I am just getting into this stuff. Havnt don anything this major yet. Have done a tranny though.

Wow this thread has been active for a frikken long time!

Anywho. I just changed my timing belt (and water pump and accessory drive belts) for the first time. It took 6 hours, and at least half that was fooling with the water pump that didn't want to play nice with pulley hardware. The crank pulley almost fell off it was so easy (thank God!). Anyways, since there are decent pictures of doing it wrong, here are the pictures you want to help you do it right.

There are indentations and white marks on the cam sprocket, that approximately line up with the top of the head. There is also a hole in one of the spokes of the sprocket that says "UP". If you line it up right, there is an indentation with red paint behind the hole, to indicate you are lined up properly on top when the red line is in the middle of the hole. You CAN NOT fail to see this, it is so obvious once you're in there.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q377/StockersPics/UpperTimingMark.jpg

On the bottom, there is a big indentation on the crank sprocket, and it lines up with a tooth gap on the sprocket as well as a cast boss on the side of the engine block at 11 o'clock. You CAN NOT fail to see this, either.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q377/StockersPics/LowerTimeMark.jpg

If everything is lined up as shown in these 2 pictures, you will be 100% fine. These shafts don't just move at the touch of a feather, it takes some force to move them. I wasn't careful at all, and mine didn't move during the whole process. If they do happen to move a little, you line it back up.

Look at the picture of the cam gear again. The arrow on the left. The "other" end of the arrow not pointing to the timing mark, is almost touching a boss that sticks out of the head a little. To tighten the crank bolt, I put a deep well socket in one of the spokes of the cam gear and jammed it under that boss on the head, behind the cam gear. The socket put a little dent in the head, so I'd recommend using a square piece of steel (BIG screwdriver head maybe?) thru the spokes of the sprocket. This is NOT the cam bearing area, it's off to the side of it.

The starter: the proper way to do it involves nasty yoga contortions to get at the starter and its hole, and it's one more thing to remove/reinstall. Unless you've got a lift, I'd at least try this method first. Also, use a torque wrench. 130ft/lbs is very tight if you're not using a LONG handled wrench, and you might not put enough twist on 'er.

To remove the crank bolt, I put the breaker bar against the ground, but then, the car was sitting on the ground, so I guess you'd have to put it against the body if it was on a lift. I'd have no worries about denting the body of the doing this.

The car made a nasty stuttering noise when I started it up (and when it shut off) when I was done. The a/c belt tensioner was ok, but I'd forgot to loosen the a/c compressor mounting bolt. Loosen the belt, loosen the bolt, retension the belt, nasty noise went away.

This is easy stuff folks, it just takes a while. Don't be afraid to do it yourself if you have all the tools, parts, and time you need.

Just finished my timing belt change on Saturday. Great info posted helped a lot! Took the entire day. The starter bump trick worked just fine to remove the crank bolt. I tightened the crank bolt by wrapping an old belt around the pulley, pinched it like a figure eight, and then looped the other end of the belt around part of the frame. Biggest snag. Took me an hour to get the pulley off mainly because the pulley puller I had bought for the job was too small and had to go buy a larger one. That pulley is about 5.25 to 5.5 inches in diameter. Get a big enough mother puller because mine would not come off without the puller. Yeah, rotating to TDC is the right way to do it, I suppose. But I marked the new belt exactly as the old one was, counted the number of teeth between the top and bottom to be sure, and it worked just fine. If you're careful, you'll be fine.

I have just replaced mine on the driveway, the most stupid thing IS ... tha plastic cover, whatta hack so many bolt in stupid places to get ... anyway the rest is nice to be done. Mine had 98k and was still in very good shape , but i dont want to risk, and i changed the accessory belts , they were in very bad shape. The only thing im woried about is tenssion. by presing with finger belt goes about 1/4 inch is it fine ?

Re: pulling the crank pulley:

If you have a couple of "wonder bars" or even a pair of hammers w/ claws on them, you can use them instead of a puller unless your pulley is VERY stuck. My 2nd car had a tight pulley, and I used a wonder bar and a hammer, behind the pulley, prying from behind. It worked great.

I used a small sledge and beat it until I had room to wiggle it then I just sat there for 10 minutes with Freeze-off and jiggled it back and forth until it came off. I did mine last May at 110k IIRC, and I'm at 141k now. Another 6 months and I'm going to have to change mien again.

Great post. Thanks it helped a great deal. After reading some posts I expected to have a bear of a time with the crank pully nut and crank. Mainly due to my car spending the first 6 years of its life on the PA turnpike with all of the salt. An impact wrench took the nut off with ease and the pully come off by hand. I must be living in opposite land!

I moved it to where it should have been.

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?p=523373#post523373


Sorry.

I just installed the second timing belt on my elantra at 150K miles. It has been about 60,000 miles since I first wrote this post about changing the timing belt. I had no issues with the first belt and once again, when I pulled the old one off, it looked in good condidtion but peace of mind is a good thing. I did notice, like I did the first time, that my A/C belt was the only one in poor shape...pretty cracked. Those AC belts must be subjected to the road debris and moisture to see such a big differece from the other belts.

One addtional tip in case it bites someone else, when I changed the timing belt this time, I accidently screwed up the threads in the crank shaft such that I could no longer put the crank shaft bolt back in to secure the crank shaft pulley. I did this by forgetting to put the bolt back in the hole before I used the gear pulley to remove the crank shaft pulley....yes, it was stuck again this time.

Anyway, if anyone else has this problem (stripped crankshaft threads), what I did and worked real well was to drill out the hole and old threads with a 1/2" drill, then get a 9/16" tap and tap out the hole and then get a new 9/16" bolt. Tapping the hole took about a half hour because you have to go slow and be careful since the crank shaft is hard material and its a large bolt. Also, since the tap I was using was not a bottom tap (it does not tap all the way to the bottom of the hole), use a 9/16 bolt that is slightly shorter than the original 14mm one. Thought I would share this for those that make my dumb mistake.

Yeah... my next car will have a chain....for sure.

This is all good stuff! Thanks to all who have posted their experience.
I'm doing my timing belt/water pump/ accessory belts this weekend for the 1st time. In my past life I was a VW nut, and have done a dozen or so vee dub timing belts. A couple had been modded (not by me, I swear to god!) to include a fancy-schmancy aluminum cam sprocket with no reference marks. You can find your TDC a few different (and, to my mind, pretty d@mn unscientific) ways other than the reference marks (assuming they're missing, covered in grime, etc.) What I did, and ended up applying to all future belt changes, was 1st put a glob of white-out to reference marks for the cam & crank pulleys position (as a backup) and then loosen the tensioner bolt. Grab a fresh blade for the utility knife, cut the belt in 1/2 lengthwise and rip the outer 1/2 off. Shove the new belt on, once it's seated enough to stay put (you'd get it at least 2/3 of the way on the sprockets by shoving the old belt all the way back), cut the remaining 1/2-thickness old belt off. Shove new one the rest of the way on, tension belt, the hard/ potentially catastrophic part is done.
Thanks again to all who've posted-- all your info is priceless! If I discover anything new I'll be sure to share.

^not necessary with hyundais...all the marks are there and easy to read.

I just installed the second timing belt on my elantra at 150K miles. It has been about 60,000 miles since I first wrote this post about changing the timing belt. I had no issues with the first belt and once again, when I pulled the old one off, it looked in good condidtion but peace of mind is a good thing. I did notice, like I did the first time, that my A/C belt was the only one in poor shape...pretty cracked. Those AC belts must be subjected to the road debris and moisture to see such a big differece from the other belts.

One addtional tip in case it bites someone else, when I changed the timing belt this time, I accidently screwed up the threads in the crank shaft such that I could no longer put the crank shaft bolt back in to secure the crank shaft pulley. I did this by forgetting to put the bolt back in the hole before I used the gear pulley to remove the crank shaft pulley....yes, it was stuck again this time.

Anyway, if anyone else has this problem (stripped crankshaft threads), what I did and worked real well was to drill out the hole and old threads with a 1/2" drill, then get a 9/16" tap and tap out the hole and then get a new 9/16" bolt. Tapping the hole took about a half hour because you have to go slow and be careful since the crank shaft is hard material and its a large bolt. Also, since the tap I was using was not a bottom tap (it does not tap all the way to the bottom of the hole), use a 9/16 bolt that is slightly shorter than the original 14mm one. Thought I would share this for those that make my dumb mistake.

I believe its more of how the belt is routed...it bends backwards.

Im glad to have discovered this bit of info, cause my wifes 2000 elantra is due for a timing belt change, thanks

xxxxx

Awesome instructions and tips from everyone! But I do have a question that I haven't read on any of the posts yet. I also have an 2002 and the crank front main seal is leaking pretty bad (at least I'm pretty sure that's what it is). When I run the car, all I can see is it looks like oil starts leaking from behind the timing belt cover right behind the crank pulley. Has anyone who's changed their belt had to change this seal? How hard is it to remove the crank timing pulley? Is that seal pretty easy to get to? Any and all advice is much appreciated!! THANKS

I am looking at changing my own belt since I don't really have the money to pay another to do it.

My biggest question is: Why not just remove the tensioner to change out the belt?:confused:

Also, can I do this belt change without lifting the engine at all?

I am looking to do this very soon since I have just over 60,000 miles right now!

Thanks!

^ you have to remove the engine mount ot get the belt out and in. and there is no need to remove the tensioner because it just moves out of your way.

So why would I need to take off the cam shaft (Pulley)if the tensioner will easily move out of the way?
Thanks!

you dont need to. i did not read the DIY maybe i should....i think there might some unecessary steps in there.

Dealer has a special now for $299. I am going to do it since a decent local shop quoted me $498 with pump $378 without pump. I think that the price is good and I won't have to worry about the warranty.

What are your experiences with the other belts at 60K? Do they all need replacement, or will they usually get more miles?

Thanks! :)

they ALL get replaced....do it! thats a good price.

Thanks! I had been anxiously looking for the coupons they send out and just got it. It says that it is good through 9/30/10.
They told me if the water pump does need replacing, it would be free up 'til the 100,000 mile 10 year warranty. And that the warranty is still good even though I will have about 60,200 miles on it by next week when I can go in to get the work done. Thank God for credit cards!:)

yup the water pump is covered by the 100k warranty and one of the reasons why its not on the change interval till 120k

Shark Racing has got a complete OEM kit including the water pump and all pulleys for $190. It's OEM parts from Korea, so order like two weeks before you plan changing.
Link: http://www.sharkracing.com/acecart/bin/shop.cgi?action=view&itemID=timing_1_1_1__1&cate=010403000

Okay so i'm ready to do my head gasket and water pump on my car now. My main concern is that if I set #1 an #4 piston at top dead center as I have done on all 4cyl, okay so when I start to take off the timming belt will the cams spin outta control or will they stay right where they are? Reason I'm putting a new head gasket on the car is because it seems to be leaking oil where the bottom end meets the head, I ran full synthetic threw it for like a week and found all kinds of oil leaks, I now have castrol 5w30 in it an it seems to be taping alittle on the intake side it didn't do that unroll a few miles after I changed out the synthetic oil can someone please explain the easyest way to take the timming belt off and head so I can replace them as well as the water pump, I'm thinking maybe that's why it heats up so quickly because the water pump is not working corectly but it is not over heating. Anyways I need help with changing timming belt and head gasket and water pump, thank you guys very much and awaiting a response on my web page so I can print it out, thank you

the cam will NOT spin because both cams are held by a chain internally.

just remember you will need an M10 and M12 hex sockets to get the head bolts. just to got HMA and follow the directions. good luck

Update
$375 out the door all belts included.

Then he says that unless I do the tranny flush every 30k either through them (or by buying genuine Hyundai tranny fluid to do it myself), if something happens to the tranny, it will not be covered by the warranty!
:eek2:
Years ago I was on a Jeep forum and the consensus was as long as you documented it all (and did it right) companies cannot void a warranty just because they did not do the work themselves. I mean,come on, it's just fluid exchange!

They had me until they said this junk........:headshake:

^thats bs....if you have documentation stating that it was done....and yes it does need SPFIII and they CAN deny you if you do NOT use it. but if you put it in there it does not matter

Every 30K sounds very excessive to me to say the least...
Sort of like every 3k for oil!

I am posting a link from a Korean website regarding Elantra timing belt replacement. it is written in Korean, but there are many detailed photos, so you can guess what it says:

http://blog.naver.com/kdhkdha?Redirect=Log&logNo=90083951899

(Sorry, I could not make hyperlink. Please copy and paste in the address bar.)

My question here is that the first pic has the cover's for the engine block off already, and the belts exposed. SO how do you get the plates/covers off the engine to access the timing belts?

Other than that one question, great article.

ther are 4 10mm bolts that hold the top cover on...there are about 7 on for the bottom cover (after you get the motor mount and bunch of other stuff off first.)

I recently changed the timing belt of my 2003 Elantra. The most difficult job was removing/ reinstalling a water pump pulley. There is only 2 inch wide space and it was almost impossible to maneuver to unbolt/ bolt the four 10 mm bolts in the pulley. The water pump pulley has actually two pulleys. one is connected to power steering pump. This time I didn't change the water pump and idler pulley because the dealer recommends to change them at every other timing belt change. The old timing belt was only 65,000 miles on it, but still it looked pretty good. I guess it will last another 30,000 miles. I changed the timing belt anyway. The old timing belt had Hyundai logo on it. But it was made in Japan! My new timing belt is from Gates. Gates company claims that their timing belts are OEM belts, not OEM replacement. It is said that Gates supply timing belts to Porsche, BMW. It is my understanding that the timing belts used by Toyota and Honda are same belts as Hyundai belts. The bottom line is that: while Toyota and Honda recommends to change their timing belts at 105,000 miles, why Hyundai insists on changing at 60,000 miles? They use same timing belts manufactured by I guess Gates in Japan!

Sweet Mother, getting the crank bolt to 130 ft lbs is killing me. I tried locking the cam pulley in place but the belt is too elastic to get 130# torque on the crank. The starter... I can not even see it. Got my hand on it but can only get one bolt loose, the second bolt is mission impossible. How important is 130#? My torque wrench had not be used for a while so I got 30# then 70# before moving the setting to 130#; I've got about 100# on it.
Worked on the thing this afternoon, going to sleep on it and get up about 5:30 to start again. Maybe the fresh start will help.
Thanks for any ideas on holding the crank pulley.
It's a 2006 2.0L.
Red

I did the timing belt change this weekend and after buttoning everything back up the engine makes a high pitch tone which is noticible at varying engine speeds. I loosened the accessory belts and had no reduction in the sound. I've seen other postings about the timing belt making a similar noise if it is over-tensioned. Does anyone know of an easy way to determine how tight the TB should be? The HMA website instructions are nice, but useless unless you have a tensiometer "When the tension side of timing belt is pushed horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 2kg (20N, 5lb)], the timing belt cog end sags in approx. 4 ~ 6mm (0.16 ~ 0.24in.)"

has anyone had any problems getting the timing belt tight agian after removing old one. ive tried 2 new tensioners and 2 new belts but still end up with way to much slack in the timing belt. ive been stuck for weeks. Someone please help, im stumped. any hints/tips are needed , thanks, IRISH

Get a bar (large/long screw driver or similar object) and use it as a lever to move the tensioner into place with your right hand; with your left tighten the tensioner bolt. Just don't get it too tight as I did above.

or use a 5mm allen wrench to put into the tensioner like it says in the manual.


but i have NEVER had that problem

pics might help.

well i found out why i was having problems. turns out the new/used engine im putting in is a 1.8l instead of a 2.0l like i was told it was. so i got a 1.8l belt and i tightend just like it should. ive been warned that i might not pass smog after we get the 1.8l in. does anyone know of any obsticles i might encounter by putting a 1.8l engine in place of a 2.0l . thanks

Got mine done today by Only1db in a lil under an hour despite a toasty engine. :tongue: Wasn't at the mileage mark yet, but was past the timeframe mark. So I got him to do it. Better deal with him than payin $350 to the dealer and having to wait an hour for your car to even get pulled in.

Got mine done today by Only1db in a lil under an hour despite a toasty engine. :tongue: Wasn't at the mileage mark yet, but was past the timeframe mark. So I got him to do it. Better deal with him than payin $350 to the dealer and having to wait an hour for your car to even get pulled in.

I'll drink to that. He's a beast.

Plus, it's nice to hang out and watch and learn rather than sit in a waiting room with stale coffee and People magazines from 3 years ago.

hahah the motor was still very warm to the touch when i was done! hahah but yeah under an hour is not a bad time. thats with us Bsing the whole time.

anyone know the time frame on these belts? it was mentioned to change them based more on age than milage. the reason i ask is the my grandfather in-law has an 04 or 05 elantra and asked me if i could to the belt for him. no issues, he just had a bad experience in the past with a different car snapping a timing belt on him at like 20k miles.

the XD2 has barely any miles on it (5,xxx i think, its 100% grocery getter, and there's a store 4 miles from their house), and both milage and age its still under warranty from the factory, so i wont touch it. if the belt has a certain age limit to it, and he is past it, can he get it changed under warranty? if it doesnt have an 'expiration date'i'm just going to tell him to wait til the service interval. or if it snaps before then, its still waranteed.

I THINK that it's 60k miles OR 5 years but I can't swear to that as I don't really remember.

I checked the manual for my 2005 Elantra and it shows 4 years or 60k miles. I believe the timing belt is considered a wear item and has to be replaced to still be covered under warranty.

it is a wearable item. It is 4/60, that's whichever comes first and yes if it snaps you're fubar'd. No warranty does not cover neglect.

unless it snaps BEFORE the replacement schedule...which i would highly doubt would happen.

^As do I since my 99 had the original timing belt at 166k miles and it barely shows any wear on the teeth or cracking.

in another 10 or 15k, ill be attempting this timing belt change myself. im actually kind of excited.

I find the interval odd, because I've owned Acura's before this car and they were either 90-100k miles or 6-7 years whatever comes first. I did the belt on my 03 TL in 2009 at 100k and the thing looked new. I did it at 69k on the Elantra in 2010 and the belt looked new. I understand it's preventive and it HAS to be done, but why at 60k or 4 years when it still looks good at 7 years and 100k? I think it should just be 7 years or 100k, whatever comes first.

I know they are different car manufacturers but a rubber timing belt is a rubber timing belt..... I also find my Hyundai just as reliable as my Acura's were. Actually the Elantra a lil more reliable than my 03 TL.

it is a wearable item. It is 4/60, that's whichever comes first and yes if it snaps you're fubar'd. No warranty does not cover neglect.

so he can take it to a dealer and since its over 4 years he can get it replaced under warranty?

The dealer won't replace it under warranty. It's considered a wearable item that the owner has to replace in order to maintain the drivetrain warranty. It's in the same category as motor oil, you need to change it according to hyundai's schedule in order to maintain the warranty. You don't have to do it at a dealer as long as you save the receipts and have the mileage and date of the service being done.

so he can take it to a dealer and since its over 4 years he can get it replaced under warranty?

No, that time is when it needs to be replaced. If it it snaps after 4.5 years under 60k than he's SOL for not doing it.

After reading all of this. Does anyone have any tips on doing this? It sounds like a lot of people had problems with the crank pulley. I'm planing on doing the job this weekend along with all of the other belts. So if anyone has any tips to make things go a lot smoother that would be great.

Hey all, I just changed all my belts including timing belt, any ideas where this bolt goes?
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c165/parabellumguitar/hyundaibold.jpg

sorry for the subpar pic, but cameraphone is all I got.

It has a 7 on the crown and the threads are about an inch long.

I thought it was part of the water pump, but after getting the whole thing back together this was still sittin under the car.:conf:

oh btw, hal - get a pulley puller thatll fit in the inside holes on the pulley. mine wasnt too hard to get off.

oh and to add to the 60,000 interval thing - the haynes manual confirms. haha

Edit:
also, the car now has the check engine light on. I didnt unplug anything except for the battery, wtf??

Ok I've got a problem.. I'm getting a p0016 code. I'm sure its from the new belt. When I went to turn the crankshaft over to line up the marks it would "jump" past them. It seemed be do to compression. Do I need to take the plugs out and try it again?

I just did the timing belt change on my 2004 and had NO problems!
I just gave to much tension to the belt at first try an heard a noise. Adjusted the tension and everything is fine since then!
I also had no problems aligning the pulleys.
The only thing I really hated was the little room between engine and chassis (big hands :D).

@Hatchet:
Looks really like a bolt of the water pump! Are you sure you fixed all five bolts of the pump?
Could also be the bolt of the "stay plate" (between motor mount and compressor bracket)!

p0016 is incorrect correlation....you need to redo the timing. in order to stop it from compressing over you just have to put some *** into the ratchet and NOT let it go. or just do it real slow.

ok.. just a follow up... the timing was off just a bit. I did pull the plugs and it did make it easier to turn the crank and check the timing. Not to tough of a job but take your time. Thanks everyone I never did a belt change before and if I can do it anyone can.

Could also be the bolt of the "stay plate" (between motor mount and compressor bracket)!

ding ding ding we have a winner. that was it, my dumbass took off a bolt that didnt need to be removed, then didnt put it back on.

SO, after undoing all my work, putting that bolt back in, putting everything back together, I realized I left out a bolt holding the lower timing belt cover. :mad:

also like Hal, I had my engine light come on after the first reassembly, it was the timing. the belt doesnt need to be very tight, you can hold the tensioner with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other.

and after final reassembly, I overtorqued the dust cover bolt and twisted off the head. damn im glad im not gonna have to do this for another 5 years!

I haven't cracked open the timing cover on my 2002 Elantra GLS but by looking at the size of the valve cover I can't see how my engine could be a DOHC (looks too small to fit two gears). The OP of this thread has what seems to be the same valve cover as mine and his is SOHC, like I think mine is.

Did Hyundai put DOHC letters on these Elantras' valve covers when they really are only SOHC?

All US 2002 Elantras have the 2.0L Beta engine with DOHC. Yours and the one in the original post are both DOHC.

The timing belt only spins one of the cams. At the other end of that cam is a second set of gears with a chain that connects the two cams:

http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passenger/HY/HMA/ENG/SHOP-Images/HY-XD13-IMAGES-ENG/uckg001a.gif

http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passenger/HY/HMA/ENG/SHOP-Images/HY-XD13-IMAGES-ENG/eckd003a.gif

I'd suggest getting a trained mechanic to change your timing belt for you.

what he said ^.

the difference between out DOHC and many others, is that these DOHC only have 1 cam GEAR. which is whats inside the timing cover. so the timing belt runs both CAMS using only 1 cam GEAR.

Holy crap, you just blew my mind. I didn't know these engines were setup like that.

I also just noticed that you live in New Britain. I go to school at CCSU. lol

This may sound like a stupid question but after removing the engine mount, how do you actually lift it, did you use a steel jack lift (the ones where you push on the metal bar?)

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I just replaced the timing belt on my '07 Kia Spectra5 (same 2.0l beta engine).

My tensioner timing mark keeps tightening (going past the tension mark).

Is that from over tightening? It is the original tensioner, it seems to be fine, do they have to be replaced along with the belt?

It scares me to drive it if it is going to over tension itself.

Someone needs to add a DIY on replacing the cam chain!


Someone needs to add a DIY on replacing the cam chain!

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?42731-Timing-Chain-Repair-Replacment-quot-Clacking-Engine-Noise-quot#post629716

So where is another write up with pics that explains how to get the cover off, and the other belts?

The question was raised, but I did not see the answer: Why can't the tensioner be rotated for belt removal and replacement, then retension? Object, to avoid having to mess with the cam gear.

In fact, it seems to me if the cam gear is removed with belt covering it, the belt would still get "caught" by the tensioner flanges?

I noticed it had one cam for a dohc???? or am I tripping??

Would you believe that it has a timing belt and chain? :)

I'm not sure if there are differences between Beta I & II heads, but the dual-cams are connected internally in the engine.

See Nova's post:
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?14645-Timing-Belt-Change-Hints-and-Tricks-(Picture-Warning!)&p=617389#post617389

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6537/hyuandai1820slantzx1.jpg

ok...yes you may just loosen the tensionor and swing the belt off...put on another. Its a piece of cake. I'm not sure who said to take the cam gear off...there is no need.

the came chain is on the inside of the head (its had this design for a LONG time, since the 1.8 came out in the 96 elantra...every beta is set up this way.


to lift the motor I use a jack under the oil pain (obviously a longer piece of wood should also be used to equal out the force applied to the pan. Its only going to be raised a couple of inches. Otherwise you will start to bend the oil pan or put too much stress on the other mounts.

excellent write up and this thread should be stickied for all us DIYer's

Perfect Writeup. I will be attempting this service in 2 weeks. Living in Australia to get the 90 000km Service costs 1000$!, or to do JUST the timing belt and water pump your looking at 650$. Instead I will just do this myself :D

hi all!

Desperately need advice.

Just replaced the belt and water pump. Put everything together, and here's a problem: engine revs up to about 4000 rpms, then down to 1500 rpms and it's like on a cycle: up and down... When I replaced the belt, I was going by crankshaft and camshaft marks + put my marks on the belt and transferred to new belt. When I put new one on, I rechecked everything 3 times and then after I tightened it, turned crankshaft 2 revolutions and marks were perfect. Also, after I started it several times, I checked timing again by putting 1 cyl into TDC and mark on crank pulley was perfectly aligned with T mark on the lower timing cover.

What was disconnected before timing belt replacement: fuel pump fuse (before starter bump trick), negative battery, camshaft position sensor, cooling fan, took out all the spark plugs and wires.

Found in forums 2 exact cases like mine, and in both the culprit was throttle position sensor (TPS). Today got a new one from Autozone, but no luck -same revs up and down.

Here is the link to one of the posts: http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?31998-Constant-revving-up-and-down-after-timing-belt-change

BTW, engine is not throwing any error codes, and timing belt tension if fine (no whirring, no slack).

I am thinking it could be Camshaft Position Sensor, maybe... Ordered one today, will check tomorrow.

Any ideas?

thanks!

camshaft would throw a code fo sure! (in like a couple of minutes of running) its more then likely not that. if the marks are lined up correctly... its probably not the timing either. TPS would likely be the culprit or a vacuum leak somewhere and the idle air controller is attempting to correct it.

Update:

Weirdest thing: turned out that when I was lifting and lowering engine, cruise control actuator cable got yanked out 1/4 inch from the housing, and in that position was pulling on throttle arm! Mother****er!!! :) Loosened it with two regulator nuts, and idles like a baby now! What a lesson! :)

thanks for your advice!

Very informative!