I'm a little unsure of a few things. I did a search and some things kind of bugged me. For example, last month I changed my oil and put on a fram filter. The car has had about 2700 miles on that oil change so far (took it down the east coast so that's how I drove so much in 30 days time) and I saw in the search someone suggested that you have to use Hyundai's brand of oil filters for the car. What the hell? My car has been running just fine on the fram filter, I can't see how it'd make a big difference.

Anyway, while I'm pursuing an answer for this question, I figured I'd ask this. I only changed my oil once since I got my car in June, and the time I did change I wasn't sure how much oil to put in. I'd put a little in, let the car sit for a few minutes, come back check it, etc, until it was of a decent range on my dipstick.

So realistically, I'm not sure how many quarts of oil our engines use. I have the 2.0 4l, 2001 Elantra GLS.

you know... mentioned the engine you is have is one of those DE DE DEEEEEEEEE things to say. this is an elantra forum where all the engines are I4 2.0L with the only real variation being if you have CVVT or not. i think we use 4.6 quarts of oil or something along that line.

you know... mentioned the engine you is have is one of those DE DE DEEEEEEEEE things to say. this is an elantra forum where all the engines are I4 2.0L with the only real variation being if you have CVVT or not. i think we use 4.6 quarts of oil or something along that line.
well only all US spec elantras have 2.0sss (other than older j2s...) but ya euro-korean spec elantras did have 1.6... 1.8... etc... don't be so harsh...

his location is PA. i did take notice of that and do realize overseas they have other motors like the TDI and 1.6 and all.

Cypher, I have a 1.6l, wanna see? :D

Roasted, don't use Fram filters, many members had problems with those, try searching and you'll see... I recommend that you don't try saving money on such parts that are viable for longevity of your car. I for one use Hyundai genuine filters.

Roasted, here's something for you...

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17798

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17195

Heh, so fram evidently blows engines that go above 65-70 mph? I call bull****. What a naive statement. I drive for 1200 miles last month at 85 mph majority of the way. Since I've been home I drive 75 mph @ 70 miles commute every day of the week. My car is fine. Pffft.

I do have to change the oil, so I'll just take the recommendation to go with a different brand. But I still find it bogus that fram causes death to our cars. Mine is proof it doesn't.

What brand of oil filter should I go with next? The only 2 brands I've EVER seen ANY stores around me carry is WIX and FRAM.

Just tried to help... There is a formal bulleting from Hyundai about Fram filters not being good, but you choose what to use... I still recommend the original Hyundai filter, it doesn't cost much (I believe it's $6) and you can't miss with OEM.

I'd have to go to the dealership to pick those up?

Yes, you have to go to the Dealership to buy Hyundai original parts.

Between the TSB about aftermarket filters causing knocking noises, the countless people that have actually had failures with Frams on Hyundai's and the independant tests showing the fram filter loses 5psi right off the bat compared to the oem, using a fram for the long term is ludicrous. Be smart, be safe and buy an OEM filter and be done. Trust me, when you have a problem with the Fram (not if, when) they WILL void the warranty because it has been proven to be the culprit.

Yep, and the FRAM filters starts to be "non available" for our cars : I checked a replacement check list at a local part shop and Fram filter were missing for most of our 2.0l engines ...

I've never bought parts from a dealership. I guess I'd just go in and talk to the dressed up car salesman and say yo I lyk want a filter, yo.

It's called Parts. . . . look for the sign. If all else fails, got to where you would get the car serviced and ask them.

Heh, so fram evidently blows engines that go above 65-70 mph? I call bull****. What a naive statement. I drive for 1200 miles last month at 85 mph majority of the way. Since I've been home I drive 75 mph @ 70 miles commute every day of the week. My car is fine. Pffft.

I do have to change the oil, so I'll just take the recommendation to go with a different brand. But I still find it bogus that fram causes death to our cars. Mine is proof it doesn't.

What brand of oil filter should I go with next? The only 2 brands I've EVER seen ANY stores around me carry is WIX and FRAM.

This is not a naive statement as you put it, there are so many horror stories regarding fram on the net, you just have to search for them, their shoddy craftsmenship is legendary as anyone who knows anything about oil or oil filters can tell you. As for them causing death to our cars, it's a statement that encompasses all vehicles not just elantras but even then about 95% of their filters are ok its the other 5% that screws you over. I don't know about you but I don't like the idea of a cardboard "plate" disentegrating in the oil or even the glue they use to bind the filter elements together dissolving in it either not to mention the paper element they use only lasts 3k or so where the elantras o.c.i. is 7500 miles.

Regarding the filter blowing up, what happened in that case was that the bypass valve got stuck into the closed position so that the backpressure ended up blowing up the filter, if you knew anything about the oiling system most vehicles oil filters go into bypass mode around 30-45 mph or so, so if it remains closed the pressure builds up over time, its not like a slam shut thing going on. It will not happen to all of their filters but it does happen by FAR more often with fram than with any other manufacturer. If you are interested in oil or what filter to use check out bobistheoilguy.com. If you want a choice go with the wix filter I have heard good things about them and is definately a good alternative to a fram, but if you really want a good filter get the m1-104 filter from mobil1 or the hp1004 filter from k&n, both are built for filtration and longevity.

Remember, we're all trying to help, none of us has any gain from you using OEM filters instead of Fram, just trying to help you keep your car going... It's not worth using a $2 cheaper filter and evetually have to change a $300-400 engine...

Who was it that has OEM filters for like $4 shipped?

Roasted, noboday is saying you have to use OEM, it is just highly recomended. The TSB was about problems some Hyundai owners have had using aftermarket filters. Their response was to say use only OEM.
Will a Fram make your car blow up, probably not, but if it does, Hyundai will deny your warranty. It is a known problem.
Wix is a good filter, so if you can't get by a dealer and nobody posts up the seller online, get a Wix instead of Fram.

Heh, so fram evidently blows engines that go above 65-70 mph? I call bull****. What a naive statement. I drive for 1200 miles last month at 85 mph majority of the way. Since I've been home I drive 75 mph @ 70 miles commute every day of the week. My car is fine. Pffft.


Umm... when it comes to stuff like crappy filters the damage doesn't just occur at 65.348173419873491374 mph. It happens over time. The biggest thing the fram is going to do is damage the valvetrain at startup. Its like this. Dump a spoon full of sand in the oil cap every time you get gas. The first 10 times you do it nothing is going to happen, maybe it will, but eventually thats going to screw something up. BTW that might not be the best analogy in the world just trying to make a point. When something is bad for the car normally it takes some time to show the damage.

I have heard fram filters are not of high quality, from people who buy filters for their motorcycle. Myself, I will just pay an extra buck and get a purolater, or higher quality just to be on the safe side

I use their Pure One filters and they work fine. If you can't find them locally, the Wix filters you referred to should be fine, too. Just stay away from Fram junk.

The 2.0 L use 4.0 quarts or as the service manual days a total of 4.23 Quarts for pan and filter ;)

One of the local dealers here has a pie-cut OEM vs Fram filter on display at the service counter. There are also quite a few "take-apart" filter reviews with pics posted here and on EGT. The difference is quite substantial.
I find it quite funny those who seek opinions on a subject and then get super defensive when other, more learned opinions conflict with their own. :)

I'm a little unsure of a few things. I did a search and some things kind of bugged me. For example, last month I changed my oil and put on a fram filter. The car has had about 2700 miles on that oil change so far (took it down the east coast so that's how I drove so much in 30 days time) and I saw in the search someone suggested that you have to use Hyundai's brand of oil filters for the car. What the hell? My car has been running just fine on the fram filter, I can't see how it'd make a big difference.

Anyway, while I'm pursuing an answer for this question, I figured I'd ask this. I only changed my oil once since I got my car in June, and the time I did change I wasn't sure how much oil to put in. I'd put a little in, let the car sit for a few minutes, come back check it, etc, until it was of a decent range on my dipstick.

So realistically, I'm not sure how many quarts of oil our engines use. I have the 2.0 4l, 2001 Elantra GLS.

Fram no longer lists a filter for the Elantra or for any other Hyundai. Get rid of it, because there is an TSB about removing aftermarket filters and using OEM, when a complaint of engine noise is made. For hyundai to issue a TSB about this means only one thing. They had engine failures traced back to the aftermarket filter.

There is also a TSB for oil drain plugs and revised capacities for oil. After 01 models capacity is 3.5 US quarts. I use 4 and I'm always a little over full... and after 6-7 K miles I've drained the same amount too.

I did my first oil change ever on my '02 gt which has a 2.0l engine. I put in 1 U.S. gallon of Amsoil 5w30, and an extra .2l total 3.9l which is a little less than per the service manual (4.3l)...the dipstick reads about 1/2" OVER full...is this ok? Will damage happen...or no worries?

That's supposed to read 4.3 QUARTS, which is still too much. THe 2.0L Beta II's only require at max 4 quarts.

And yes, being that over full can cause the crank to whip the oil into foam and starve the oil pump, which in turn toasts the bearings.

That's supposed to read 4.3 QUARTS, which is still too much. THe 2.0L Beta II's only require at max 4 quarts.

And yes, being that over full can cause the crank to whip the oil into foam and starve the oil pump, which in turn toasts the bearings.

Thank you, I removed http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9866/dscf0007ep0.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0007ep0.jpg) this much oil ---> about .3 quarts. The level is now exactly @ the 'F' mark...so I can completely agree...the answer is (MAX) EXACTLY ONE U.S. GALLON, with filter. Next time will be a breeze! Again...THANKS!

According to Hyundai's oil drain plug TSB the capacity mid 01 changed to 3.5 from 3.7 quarts. I have been using 4 and I'm always a bit over the fill mark. I did most of the changes on my 03 (64 K miles) and all of my 05 (52 K miles) and the result was always the same! Recent changes show that I take out the same amount, as I'm not burning any oil in between.

According to Hyundai's oil drain plug TSB the capacity mid 01 changed to 3.5 from 3.7 quarts. I have been using 4 and I'm always a bit over the fill mark. I did most of the changes on my 03 (64 K miles) and all of my 05 (52 K miles) and the result was always the same! Recent changes show that I take out the same amount, as I'm not burning any oil in between.

The oil pan holds 3.7qts+0.3 liters (0.32 US qts)for the oil filter=4.02qts :)