I created this DIY with the aid of my cell phone camera, a few tools, and a little time. I had never done it before but I had two service manuals to reference and it's pretty easy.

Here is a diagram with the name of every part.
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5659&stc=1

***Please examine the assembly on your car. Take a picture ahead of time if you need to. There are certain pieces of the assemble such as the adjuster lever pawl and the adjuster screw assembly that are oriented a specific way. Note that when removing it.***

When I replaced my shoes, I did not replace my springs because they were fine. Under normal circumstances it is advisable to purchase the hardware kit when purchasing your shoes and replace everything at the same time. Additionally, my drums were not in need of machining, however under normal circumstances it's recommended that you have them machined prior to putting everything back together.

Tools required:
Vice Grips
Need Nose Pliers
Brake Cleaner
Rags or a catch pan
Jack Stands
18" Breaker bar w/ 1 1/4" Socket
Torque Wrench
Thin bladed screw driver
High Temp Grease

Step 1:
Engage parking brake

Step 2:
Loosen lug nuts on rear tires.

Step 3:
Jack the rear end of the car up and set each rear side on jack stands so the tires clear the ground.

Step 4:
Remove both rear tires.

Step 5:
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Using the screw driver, wedge it in between the brake drum and the center cap.

Step 6:
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Now that the cap is off attach the 1 1/4" socket to the breaker bar and remove the nut shown here.

Step 7:
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Once you have the nut off you'll notice there is a washer. It has a tooth which slides in the groove of the threaded shank which you just took the nut off of. Release the parking brake, making sure to have the front tires chocked and pull the drum and washer off.

Step 8:
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Here is what the inside of the drum looks like and the spacer I was mentioning above. Spray the inside of the drum out to clean it of all the break dust. DO NOT use an airline to blow it out since the break dust is hazardous.

Step 9:
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Here is what the brake shoe area looks like. Spray this area clean also with brake cleaner. Put rags down beneath the assembly or a pan to catch the black brake mess. Otherwise you'll end up with a black driveway.

***CAUTION***
From here on out it's absolutely necessary to pay attention the order in which things are to be removed. Read through this entire DIY and follow each step as it is listed. Do not remove things out of order!!!

Orientation: In these pictures I am working on the passenger side rear. All pictures were taken accordingly.

Step 10:
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With needle nose pliers remove the vertical adjuster spring.

Step 11:
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Remove the adjuster level pawl by hand.

Step 12:
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Once you have the upper return spring removed there is the adjuster screw assemble. Turn the spikey (for lack of a better word) so the the assembly is shortened up.

Step 13:
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This step is a PITA to remove and put back on. Be patient and if you're not strong then don't attempt. I used vise grips to hold onto the center flat section of the upper return spring pulling it to the right and needle nose to help manipulate the hook at the end of the spring out of the hole on the side of the shoe. Once the spring is removed remove it completely.

Step 14:
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Attach the vise grips to the lower return spring and unhook one side and remove it as well.

Step 15:
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There are two hold-down springs. With needle nose or snub nose pliers grab the disk and rotate is 90 degree until you have aligned the slot with the blade of the pin behind it. Remove the disk, spring, and pin setting them aside.

Step 16:
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Once you have removed both hold-down springs and parts, remove the forward shoe and then remove the rear shoe and disconnect the parking brake cable.

Step 17:
There are several (6 I believe) spots on the interior of the assembly. Once you have everything disassembled you will see where the shoes contact the plate behind the wheel cylinder. Lubricate all the spots with a high temp grease.

Step 18:
Pick up the new rear brake shoe that has the parking brake lever and reattach the parking brake cable just like how you removed it. You will notice there is a washer between the spring and the hex-like stopper. Pull back the washer, compressing the spring, and you will see the cable. Insert the hex-like stopper appropriately through the lever and the washer should sit on the other side preventing the spring from getting caught in the slot.

Step 19:
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Remount the rear brake shoe. Make sure the bottom of the shoe is behind the tap on the bottom of the assembly. Reattach the hold down spring securing the shoe into place.

Step 20:
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Hook the lower return spring through the rear shoe and attach it to the forward shoe. Mount the forward shoe into place and secure with the hold down spring as before. Be sure that when both shoes are put on they are contacting the cylinder equally. The cylinder should not be pushed more to one side than the other.

Reassemble the remaining parts in the REVERSE order in which they were removed.

To adjust the brake shoes, you will have to adjust the spikey teeth on the adjuster screw assembly. You want the drum to fit back on and not spin freely when fully seated. The drum should turn by hand but not spin freely. It will take some back and forth figuring out. Do note how the drum spun BEFORE you do any work so that you can use that as baseline of how it should feel later.

Once you have everything reassembled and before you put the drum back on spray the shoes with brake cleaner to be sure and remove any possible contaminants and oils they may have gotten from your hands or elsewhere.

When you have the drum put back on and everything is assembled correctly, slide the washer back on and the nut after it. The torque spec for that nut is 159-192 lb.ft.

that is a sweet diy i was gonna take my car in for the drums but its close to $400 to do and im not spending that much on f'n brakes. Thanks!

Thanks Scott! This is a much appreciated DIY!!!!

Hey no prob Gary. I've been wanting for quite some time now to do a DIY for this site and I finally got the opportunity to. Glad it's useful for you guys.

Cornbread...$400 is pretty steep. Were they going to replace the drums too? Turning the drums isn't even that expensive so they had to be doing something more than a standard brake change.

Very Nice, Thank You.

wow...i wish this was available a year ago. disc brakes on all corners now FTW.

wow...i wish this was available a year ago. disc brakes on all corners now FTW.

Yep, and now I get to sell you new calipers every couple years cause they like to freeze! I love you owners. . . . . . :D

If you want to inspect the shoes, you don't have to remove the hub, you can insert two bolts into the holes and pull the drumm off with half the effort.

is this procedure applicable to XD2's?

I can't say for certain but I think drum brakes are all pretty much of the same design.

Thanks a million RedScorp! I did the rear drums last weekend with your near (I'd like to add few tips) perfect manual!

I started from the passenger side. Everything went smooth then I had little trouble while putting a new shoes in, but I made it through. I learned all the tricks from the passenger side and expected the driver side would take less time. Wrong! Drum wouldn't come out! It was frozen and I didn't know the thread size for the hole that is designed to pull drum out from the hub. So I went to local garage and asked if they could make it loose. They just hit the side of the drum hard. It came out like magic. Back at home, I try the same and it worked like charm. The problem was now the rotor? or hub? wouldn't come out again. So I just left it there and changed everything. Actually it was easier that way cause it helps to hold everything in place when you put the new shoes on. It was my first time changing the rear drum and took almost 5 hours due to the frozen drum. I wouldn't even try it if your step-by-step guide was not available. Thanks a lot, RedScorp! Now my car brakes a lot better!

Few more tips:

- I found out that 90 degree angled long reach plier would easily take the upper return spring (aka: bioch) out because you can put your body weight to pull the spring. With anything that is straight you really need a muscle to stretch the spring.
- There are few more points where you need to apply a brake grease: Brake cylinder piston and shoe contacts, bottom plate and shoe contacts (learned it from my other car's shop manual)
- You don't have to sweat to unhook the lower return spring. Once you take out the hold down springs, both shoes will come off. You can easily remove lower return spring off the brake assembly.
- Rule of thumb for the spikey thing adjustment (some calls it a self adjuster): Put the wheel on and turn it with your hand. You should be able to turn the wheel about 1 rotation with your hand (learned it from some online video)
- Wear mask when needed! Professional respirator is the best. I used fine dust mask, but I could still smell the dust and brake cleaner. Brake cleaner smell gives me a headache.
- You need at least 2 cans of brake cleaner for the both side. Have them ready.
- Clean the self adjuster inside out with brake cleaner before you put it back.
- You will need to adjust the e-brake cable after replacing the shoes. In my case, my car slid on the driveway slope even with e-brake on. First follow all the procedure like 15 and 35 miles stops and gentle stops at a reverse gear. Then take the center console out and adjust the e-brake cable. You need a 12mm wrench. (Refer to the e-brake leather boot diy section for the center console disassembly)

Thank GOD I have Disc Brakes. Drums Absolutely suck. BOB

Thank GOD I have Disc Brakes. Drums Absolutely suck. BOB
Hey Bob! :D
Yeah, drums are bioch to work with. Good thing is I will never need to replace them again. My drums had 130K on them and the shoe still had 50% left! Front disk brakes must be working really hard! :D

Ya I esp like when you have to beat them off with a 10 pound sledge. HAHA. BOB

is this procedure applicable to XD2's?


yes all of it excpet, when it comes to taking off the drum. there is a little screw that holds the drum on instead of taking off that nut. but you might need a hammer to tap the drum loose. after that it is the same steps.

UH, good to learn from this great DIY!

I will replace drums and shoes for my 98's sometime this summer.

I found a whole set of assembly from a junkyard on a totaled 99. seems the same.

It was brand new assembly, so I bought it for 45 bucks.

Thanks for it!:abovelol:

great instructions - made the job much easier for me. Thanks

how does that big nut come off when it is grooved into the post? It wont budge for me at all it wants to strip instead. Am I missing something?

wish i had read this b4 doing mine,did 1 side at a time for reference but didnt notice the adjuster screw assembly orientation when working on side 1
did side 2 same as side 1
got everything back together and had absolutely no parking brake
took everything apart and messed with adjuster-still nothing
adjusted parking brake to the max under the console,now it works enough to hold the car on a slight hill but wont be enough to pass inspection
have been looking around for pics but none are good enough to see the orientation of the {legs?}-ie long,short,inboard ,outboard-clearly
i will have to get out there and mess with them again and try to get the parking brake right
thanx for your great post and pics though

yes all of it excpet, when it comes to taking off the drum. there is a little screw that holds the drum on instead of taking off that nut. but you might need a hammer to tap the drum loose. after that it is the same steps.

i will add that an impact tool to remove the Phillips head screw might be needed. i couldnt get enough torque and pressure to do it by hand so i used a dewalt impact screwdriver and it came right off.