Amplifier for 2 15's Kicker l7

[furcioelbravead]

Hello everybody,

Well I received the optima today but I have not installed it yet because I sold the Kenwood 9152d amplifier I had. I am now looking for a good amplifier that will run my two kicker 15 l7's 07 model 1000w rms each. It has been really hard to find a good amp for a good price, especially on ebay. I am willing to spend around 300 just for the amplifier. I had in mind an audiobahn a2300hct or a memphis mc1500d. The memphis amplifier is a little cheaper. I want something to really power those subs, because I want to stick to this system for more than six months, so if you have any suggestions they will be very welcome and appreciated.

[2loud2k2xd]

ive got the 2300hct in my car. powering 1 kicker soloX 12" (2400 watts @ 1 ohm). this amp has plenty of power, but needs a minimum of 14.4 volts to get all that power.

and be careful of ebay garbage. you never know what your going to get in the box (remanufactured, used, bricks, broken ****, ect).
pay a little more and buy from another source.

[Ugzz]

What ohm load are you subs rated at? with that info i can link you to some amps from different places..

[2loud2k2xd]

^^
well, the 2300hct is good for 2400 @1ohm or 1200 @2 ohms (iirc).

[furcioelbravead]

I got the dual 4 ohm but i can get the dual 2 ohm if it's necessary from my brother. Any thoughts on the memphis?

By the way, how are you powering that a2300hct? did you upgrade your alternator. I already have the optima in hands and the knukoncept wires for the big three. I also have a duralast 1000 amps 880 cold amps battery. Will i have to add the optima to the back or can i just keep one in the front?

[2loud2k2xd]

i run a red top optima (series 24) under the hood. then an optima yellow top (class 34) ONLY for the sub amp and component amp. i also run a 3 farad bank, 0ga dual battery wiring set-up, BIG 3 with 4ga wire, a 6pc 4ga ground kit, and a pioneer premier 860mp deck that puts out 6.5v @ 3 channels). i also use a stinger 200 amp relay/isolator as well as a 160 amp circuit breaker. these 2 items are needed for safe wiring of a dual battery set-up. im pushing 3000+watts RMS. same origional factory alt (86,000+miles on her and still running strong). i havent competed at all last year, but for 1 comp. and i also dont go around trying to blow out my back glass when i drive around. i listen to my radio about 1/2 max volume or less most of the times. only occasionally do i turn it up past 3/4. there really is no need to do so any more. unless there is a dumbass ricer next to me rattling his plate off, then ill gladly drown him out and put him in his place.

note: make sure you dont use 0ga for the big 3. there was talk a couple yrs ago from a hyundai insider (on eclub) about the 0ga messing up the ecu's and such. dont ask me why, i just used 4ga.

if your really planning on using 2-15's with a high powered amp, you WILL need to wire up your car like i have mine. 0ga wire for the dual battery set-up, a relay/isolator so the alt can charge both batteries, and a circuit breaker for safety (fires, possible electricle issues).

[furcioelbravead]

hey, thanks for your advice. may i ask the model #'s of the relay/isolator and the circuit breaker so i can buy the same ones, you know what you're talking about and i have seen your set up and it looks really nice.

[Ugzz]

just for the record.. what 2load is doing is awesome.. but i have seen some serious setups around 2k-2500rms without a second batt. just a yellow top under the hood and i know they ran their setups for years.. it al depend on if you amp is true power and really dishes out the full rms.. i say my amp is 1400, but realistically (from what i read) it pushes about 1200. thats just how boss screws with their numbers sometimes.. but still running 1644rms is still pretty serious for me only having 4g and a single battery and i have 0 issues. this summer im going to update to 2 dvc subs and run my amp at 1ohm (yes its 1ohm stable), at that level its advertised wattage is around 2k, im hearing online its more like 1800ish.. but hey thats still some power.. i guess ill find out if all is well then (i will def upgrade to 0g)

but back on topic i would feel safe running a single batt (as long as it was optima) with 2000watts and wouldnt even think much of it.. now if i was getting to 3k then i might start thinkin about 2louds dual batt setup. Im just sayin ive seen a buncha dual 15 or even dual 15+ setups with 2k+ rms and a single batt. No idea if those peeps actually play it for longer then just at a comp though, i guess thats the question..

just remember you can play on the stock equip.. but if you want to play hard you need some upgrades.. but if you wan to play some serious hardball like 2loud.. x-pect to dish out some $ for a dual batt setup

thats mho

also i must say ive only seen in person about 3 setups with isolators.. and they all used stinger.. so i guess that sais something for stinger heh -also almost all of stingers stuff is slightly under-rated. wire can take more then advertised and such.. they are really on top of their game imo

[|2oo]

just for the record.. what 2load is doing is awesome.. but i have seen some serious setups around 2k-2500rms without a second batt. just a yellow top under the hood and i know they ran their setups for years.. it al depend on if you amp is true power and really dishes out the full rms.. i say my amp is 1400, but realistically (from what i read) it pushes about 1200. thats just how boss screws with their numbers sometimes.. but still running 1644rms is still pretty serious for me only having 4g and a single battery and i have 0 issues. this summer im going to update to 2 dvc subs and run my amp at 1ohm (yes its 1ohm stable), at that level its advertised wattage is around 2k, im hearing online its more like 1800ish.. but hey thats still some power.. i guess ill find out if all is well then (i will def upgrade to 0g)

but back on topic i would feel safe running a single batt (as long as it was optima) with 2000watts and wouldnt even think much of it.. now if i was getting to 3k then i might start thinkin about 2louds dual batt setup. Im just sayin ive seen a buncha dual 15 or even dual 15+ setups with 2k+ rms and a single batt. No idea if those peeps actually play it for longer then just at a comp though, i guess thats the question..

just remember you can play on the stock equip.. but if you want to play hard you need some upgrades.. but if you wan to play some serious hardball like 2loud.. x-pect to dish out some $ for a dual batt setup

thats mho

also i must say ive only seen in person about 3 setups with isolators.. and they all used stinger.. so i guess that sais something for stinger heh -also almost all of stingers stuff is slightly under-rated. wire can take more then advertised and such.. they are really on top of their game imo

you dont need a daul battery setup for only 3000rms, my amp is rated 3000rms at 2ohm and i run mine at .5ohm daily so it puts out around 4-5000rms its running of a yellow top, the voltage only drops down to 11volts with my ****ty stock alt but im going to get a bigger battery jsut to be safe. i have 2 runs of 0 gauge straight to my amp, 2 0 gauge grounds into my amp, 6 0 gauge earths from the battery under the hood.

[Ugzz]

holy zombie jesus!? your running upto 5k rms.. that is ludicrous. i hear bumpin 12s and 15s at 1k.. i have 16-18 hundred and i thought that was high.. 2loud does 3k and i thought that was nutzz... but over 4? do you compete? or did you just get the bigger better louder bug like crazy!? lol - and if you get voltage drop on your stock but you have the amps hooked to a yellow top is your isolator really doing its job? isnt it supposed to "isolate" the draw?

also a few posts up it sias if you do the big 3 with 0, it throws the ecu? how the hell does that happen? so yer sayin that if you allow a smoother flow of current then it does bad things? i thought you could do the big three with anything from 2-00 and it didnt realy matter cause the things peak out anyway.. i duno.,. maybe its true, just dont understand the mechanics of it..

[BlueRush]

you dont need a daul battery setup for only 3000rms, my amp is rated 3000rms at 2ohm and i run mine at .5ohm daily so it puts out around 4-5000rms its running of a yellow top, the voltage only drops down to 11volts with my ****ty stock alt but im going to get a bigger battery jsut to be safe. i have 2 runs of 0 gauge straight to my amp, 2 0 gauge grounds into my amp, 6 0 gauge earths from the battery under the hood.

What kinda amp you runnin?

If you want to maintain a steady 13.8-14.4v you do. 11v CAN DO DAMAGE to electrical components not designed to run on that little voltage, like your ECU, and your amps, that's why GOOD amps have undervoltage protectection, in other words they shut down till a reasonable voltage is reached. You will also be DESTROYING your factory alternator by doing so, because @ anything under 14.4v, your pulling current DIRECTLY from the alternator, as it charges the system to 14.4v.

1 Memphis MCD2004 - 55w x 4channel
1 Memphis MCD3004 - 75w x 4channel
2 Memphis MCD1000 - 1100w x 1channel
2 Memphis SHP 12" subs - 500w RMS rated (LMAO)
1 Memphis MSQ6 6.5" component set
1 Memphis MSYNQ6 6.5" component set
1 Pioneer DEH-P860MP headunit
1 Pioneer AVH-P7300DVD 7" LCD screen
2 Optima Red-tops - 1 underhood, 1 in trunk
1 Memphis 1 farad cap w/display
1 Batcap 50 farad batcap
1Stock alternator

Even with that I get light dim @ 30 on the knob, which is 3/4. And this is while goin 70mph @ 3,000 RPM. I'm hittin 13.4v on the low end, and 14.6 on the high.

The solution that no one wants to do cuz it's expensive is to get a new or rewound alternator, like 300-400 bux though.

[Ugzz]

^ 4 the record, my stock batt ran at like 12.3 constant and each bass hit dropped me to 12 or occasionally 11.9 or even 11.75 -i duno if it was bad right off the lot or not..... but either way i got an optima ASAP.. now its constant 14.4 if i put on a bass tester and blast at to max i can get it to drop to like 14 but it just hits that then goes right back to 14.4 in less then a finger snap.

[|2oo]

im not really worried about voltage drop with my amp is tuff i have got to 8volts during a burp but that wasnt using a yellow top, i compete in db drags at the moment im at 148.3dbs although the yellow top is not big enough for my needs, im saving for a odysee 2150 as that the biggest battery we got here in australia. but yes i caught the bug im upgrading to 2 DDz1s amps (5000rms at 1ohm) im running a DD9515 at the moment and loving it i cannot take it pass half way as my ears start to hurt and makes you feel sick. but all you really need is a good alt and a healthy battery
here is some videos of my beast in action its moves alittle bit :)
video 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIHapf1G2oY)
video 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHW-O5hsC94)
video3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8xav_6_Wms)
video4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMtLSN98yto)

you can check out the my car and setup in my elantra thread

[2loud2k2xd]

i actually got my relay/isloator and circuit breaker off ebay. just type in 200 amp stinger relay. as for the circuit breaker, i forgot the name of it, but if you type in 160 amp circuit breaker and post up a few links to them, i can direct you to the best one for you.

as for only using 1 optima yellow for anything over 3k rms. i would avoid at all costs unless you wanna replace the alt about every couple months.

[Kens GLS]

I have an RF 500a2 for sale, the birth sheet has it rated at 330x2 at 2 ohms but I think you would need DVC subs to get the most out of this amp.