Slow 2K2GT's boosted ride

[slow 2K2GT]

Well everything is finally coming together so I figured I would start a thread in the appropriate spot. After 12 hours of on and off work my engine is back in and everything seems to be going well, my only major area of concern is how tight my timing belt is due to the head spacer. I am unable to even move the tensioner pulley for it and there will be a nice whine once I start the car up, other than that things are good to go. Here are a few pics from last night and my progress.

Enjoy!

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/almost_there.JPG

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/almost_there_1.JPG

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/almost_there_2.JPG

[Kens GLS]

Nice!!!

[only1db]

now that is a nice intercooler...thats the 15 right?? sure makes piping a little easier uh??

what psi?? is that an ACT clutch?? high pressure plate with organic disc??

perhaps i missed it...but a blow off valve??

[KeWLKaT]

no bov with the kit!

and slow!!! hahahahahah

i see you are a fan of the canadian tire flat black paint like me :):):):)

[slow 2K2GT]

now that is a nice intercooler...thats the 15 right?? sure makes piping a little easier uh??

what psi?? is that an ACT clutch?? high pressure plate with organic disc??

perhaps i missed it...but a blow off valve??

Yes thats the 15g, piping was really easy with a larger engine bay...what psi you ask, well thanks to Dave I got the 17psi flash. Again you are right, ACT high pressure plate with organic disc. BOV has not been welded in yet, I am waiting until the car is on the road.

As for the paint...Felix buddy Canadian Tire flat black is the only way to go!

[Keyan]

What is the current cost of this project so far?

[slow 2K2GT]

Turbo kit + BOV and two head gaskets = 3000 US
ACT clutch kit = 300 US
Fidanza flywheel = 300 US
Fidanza cam sprocket = 140 US
Boost controller = 100 US
Turbo timer = 110 US
ARK exhaust = 450 US
Dropzone springs = 80 US
GT HID = 240 US
Nology hotwires = 220 US
Yaya F/R mounts = 200 US
New timing belt kit = 200 US
Greddy oil adapter = 75 US
Custom mid pipe = 140 US
Autometer gauges = 215 US
Compact Div pillar = 90 US
Tapping = 60 US
New o2 sensor = 160 US
New highflow cat = 180 US
New head bolts = 60 US
Optima battery = 140 US

TOTAL: 6460 US

Just remember that this price tag is still on going, there are little expenses in there that I dont count too.

[only1db]

damn...yo uare going to have some crazy torque steer!

we shoudl really get on the ball and ask quaife about the lsd....i know you all would benefit immensly!

[slow 2K2GT]

Yeah I know I should do a lot of things but my modding funds have come to a halt for now, we just bought a house so I am finishing up this portion of the project and will carry on in the near future.

[KeWLKaT]

comon man kdmguy doenst have an lsd with his 400hp setup and brings it to the track, he just said you get used to the torque and drive accordingly.

not everyone is willing to dish out 1000$+ for a peice of equipment that not a lot of us have had...

[slow 2K2GT]

Thats a good point, I forgot KDMguy didnt have one. That wasnt a big concern of mine anyhow, my next focus is handling, I need some suspension upgrades other than springs.

[toymachine566]

looks good, Felix is right......Right before my car took a dump, I was adjusting and getting better at moderating the gaas and such to get better accleration without sitting at the stop sign going through 1st and 2nd. Ugh, and now I will have to re-learn it all :(

Can't wait to see it in action slow 2K2GT :D

[Cypher]

lsds are primarily for handling purposes, if you "need" one in drag racing then what you should get is better skills instead of spending more money!

[2000 elantra]

that looks good get dyno soon.I want one.!!!!

[slow 2K2GT]

I wanted one for the longest time, I will be sure to dyno with the 17psi once its nicely broken in. This will be my first ever dyno on my first ever boosted Hyundai!

[only1db]

lsds are primarily for handling purposes, if you "need" one in drag racing then what you should get is better skills instead of spending more money!

agreed...and hence why i want one so bad...nothing like burning up the inside tire while acclerating...


but it still better to have two wheels more or less in sync then have one wheel just spinning...

what size tires are you going to be running??

[slow 2K2GT]

215/45 17s

[mregt02]

The LSD has tons of benefits if one decides to autox their car, it's not always all about drags..................

So what the hell are your plans once you get it back on the road anyhow, racing at all?

[slow 2K2GT]

nope just a fun daily driver. Well maybe once every now and again to the track but mostly point A to point B and back again

[Midnightsky]

17PSI You say? That's awsome, U gotta let me know how that one turns out. I want to boost my Elantra now too but I'm leaning much more towards an intercooled supercharged setup (Less work under the hood) Obviously our engines can handle the boost cause Alpine dual charged a 2.0L Hyundai motor and I wonder how much PSI they must have been pushin out @ 500HP

[only1db]

^ no intercooled supercharger....that i know of yet...and it only goes up to 10psi un-intercooled...there were a handful of people that had that setup...

[NY2002ElantraGT]

NGM is in the process of making an aqua cooled supercharger for the i4. very similar to the NGM ASSASIN for the v6 guys. trust me you'll know when its out, cuz i'll be the first one with it!

[only1db]

pm some pics and specs....if you have them...or throw up a link i dont want ot whore out this thread...


btw...did you get everything up and running yet??

[NY2002ElantraGT]

http://www.ngmhouseofpower.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368

got my car running, still misfireing, doing a motor swap next week.

[slow 2K2GT]

Well tonite wasnt as productive as I had hoped. Got all my IC hoses clamped down, hung the exhaust and thats about it. I had hopes of getting much more done but the piping caused me some minor heartache and I still cant get that damn bracket to work for me. BOO! So in my few hours between now and Saturday, I will put on all the accessory belts, re-check the torque on things and be sure that everything is connected. By that time I hope to have my Unichip back (AND MY MIDPIPE!) so I can begin that part of the install. I want my front bumper back on so bad, its inside the car and most know just how little room there is inside a Tib, but that damn IC bracket is dancing in front of me saying (In a Borat voice) "You're never gonna get this, never gonna get this!"

Oh well lots to do still connect 2nd coolant line and splice into fuel line, install my boost controller...find a place to weld in the BOV adapter, but I have the 500km break in period for that to happen too.

[chris929]

Just an idea: Kdmguy used to have his BOV mounted right next to his IC (so right infront of bumper opening) and apparently it was loud as hell...Might be cool.

[slow 2K2GT]

Im not out for loud as hell, I am out for efficient and reliable, theres too much rain and bad weather here to have things that close to the ground.

Ok next time I update with pictures the car will be done. Today I went up and put on the front bumper and headlights, put in the alternator and power steering pump, checked torque on bolts. Though it seems I am going to have to relocate my battery to the trunk, I have one of those metal battery trays that are big and clumsy.

Things left to do:
Accessory belts
Crank pulley bolt
bolt down AC compressor
Install midpipe when it arrives
Install Unichip and wires
T into fuel line
Cut rad hose for return cooling line
Drill through firewall and connect gauges to proper spots

Thats it, I have 4 hours on Monday night to do it and my Unichip may not be here by that time so I will do the wiring anyhow that way when it arrives all I do is plug it in and start it up...hopefully that goes well.

Damn im so excited about finally finishing this project, all I want to do is work on the car. I cant wait to hear it fire up, I want to know what the ARK exhaust sounds like, I want to hear the turbo spool up (after the 1000km break in of course)...damn I cant wait for this to finally be mine. Ok im done but im still excited!!!

[Cypher]

i'm excited for you buddy!

[only1db]

^ yeah ditto...i know how excited i get over sombodies else's turbo...nevermind if i actually had it in my hands like you do!!

just be careful and recheck EVERYTHING!!! hahah

[slow 2K2GT]

I went up again today for a few hours got everything but the Unichip wiring done. I do have a leak on the left side of my fuel rail so I will need to take that off and seal it. Other than that it seems like things are good to go with me, engine is properly timed and I checked everything again. Monday I will check it all again just to be sure.

Things I need to know are.
How much do I advance my cams? I have an adjustable sprocket so a degree figure would be best.
Where is the best place to drill through the firewall to route lines for gauges?

I hope that my Unichip gets here Monday so I can put it in that night...in a perfect world the chip and my downpipe would arrive here in the same day (Thanks Matt, I cant wait to get it!!!), but I will settle for one or the other.

[only1db]

actually its probably the same spot that everybody runs their power wires for their system...just cut into the grommet and put them through there...its in the middle of the firewall about half way down with a plastic cover over it...there are pics around here somewhere...

as far as cams go...the least amount of overlap would be best...to try and keep all the boost in and not "leak" any...this is also one of the reasons why i believe some of the cvvt guys have been trying to disable cvvt...

to be honest the only true way would be to do it on the dyno...and see what yeilds the best results.

[Cypher]

i found my best HP increase at 6 degrees turned towards the rear of the car.

derek, overlap is GOOD at least some is because it helps with exhaust scravenging.

[slow 2K2GT]

Yes but scavenging in this role is bad. High lift, minimal overlap for my application. I think its 1 tooth advance with a stock cam so I think thats about 4 degrees advance...to the front of the car.

[Cypher]

true. on n/a scavenging is good. one tooth on the timing belt = 10 degrees.

turning the cam sprocket to the rear of the car is actually advancing because of the way the motor turns. think about it for a second and it actually makes sense.

donnie: get on msn fool!

[slow 2K2GT]

I dont turn the sprocket I turn the cams to the front. Put a wrench on the sprocket bolt and turn the cams clockwise as you look at them, thus advancing the cams.

[only1db]

Yes but scavenging in this role is bad. High lift, minimal overlap for my application. I think its 1 tooth advance with a stock cam so I think thats about 4 degrees advance...to the front of the car.

yeah....um...damn it now you going to have to make me think again...:abovelol:

[slow 2K2GT]

Unichip got here today, will update with pics and a video of first start up later tonite...Stay tuned!

[dmdicks]

Glad your chip got there ok and yes overlap is bad on a boosted car because you'll just be pushing your mixture out the exhaust. The best thing is to advance the intake cam and retard the exhaust cam. Really the only way to maximize your cam power is on a dyno. Otherwise stock cam timing works just fine.

[only1db]

yeah...its amazing that hyundai designed the everything to be economical..but in all actuallity...its perfect for boost....smaller intake runners and almost no overlap....sheesh...somebody just needs to tell them this!

come on man...get it together! i cant wait to join the club...i feel espeically left out...since i have been working on toymachines car...

[toymachine566]

come on man...get it together! i cant wait to join the club...i feel espeically left out...since i have been working on toymachines car...

with toymachine;).......your time will come meng, the key is to convince the wife as close to tax return time as possible :D.

so where's the video clip slow2k2gt? :tongue:

[slow 2K2GT]

Well sorry to dissapoint guys but there was no video taken tonite, I ran out of battery power but dont worry you didnt miss much. I need a new fuel rail because there is fuel pouring out the left side of it and I cant get the end off to re-seal it. BUT the car did start up just fine, for anyone who has ever done this sort of job you know the worries that I had before I started the engine, I should have been drunk at that time to ease the pain a little. Heres the things that I ran into tonite that im questioning, there was no power wire for my 5th injector, just wires from the harness into the injector itself. Is this something new that Alpine changed but didnt update in their instructions? For the startup there was some hesitation but then it fired right up, then there was some sputtering and it started to idle nicely, though it was a little loud with no midpipe on there. LOL!

Will update more tomorrow when the wife stops hounding at me...

[KeWLKaT]

the injector only has a harness that goes to it.......

[slow 2K2GT]

I will do some phone around to the local wrecking yards today to see if they have anything there that I can salvage from. Im also still waiting on one or two little things before I can take the car home. It almost hurt me last night to leave the car there after it started up...:(

[dmdicks]

I made a change to the harness so there is one less wire to mess with. I just haven't had a chance to update the instructions... :-(

[slow 2K2GT]

Ahh well that really made things easier, my crank position sensor only had two wires as well, the green and a blue...there were instructions to where the green one went so I just put the blue at the opposite side of the cut wire.

Called the dealership and ordered the little plug that goes into the end of the fuel rail that cost me $75, it will be here on thursday so I will need to get that piece out on Wednesday night. Once thats done I can drive the car home and wait for my exhaust section to come in.

[Cypher]

schweet! hurry up and finish it donnie

[slow 2K2GT]

So that piece I needed is called a damper-pulsation. I looked and looked around HMA today for directions on how to remove it but there is nothing at all. I figure mine has been loctite'd in there and will need to be heated up, so again my fuel line is coming off...damn. I tried on Monday to remove it but the leak just got worse so if anyone knows how to remove it than let me know, it looks like should just unthread but it wont move for me.

[slow 2K2GT]

Well had another round with the car tonite, got the damper-pulsation off and ready for the new one tomorrow, got my rear diffuser cut and smoothed out the bumper. Thats about it. I will get a start up video for you guys soon, I just hope it with a full exhaust and not a dump at the downpipe.

Oh and I know I keep asking but what is the break in period for these turbos?

[KeWLKaT]

god knows


if i end up getting a new one im babying it for the first 5,000km anyways lol

[dmdicks]

What do you mean your crank sensor only has 2 wires going to it? Is your car a Beta I or II? All Beta II's have a 3 wire crank sensor. Or are you talking about the wires from the Unichip? If so that was another change I made. There used to be a 3rd wire, called a pull up wire, that got connected to the sensor side of the crank. Now that wire is connected near the Unichip to make things easier.

[slow 2K2GT]

I have a beta II and I meant to say that there were only 2 wires coming from the Unichip. I figured it was another change you made. Because all the piping wastegate cannister was in the way I just pulled the cover off by the coil packs and tapped into the wire there as opposed to fighting with the sensor to connect it again.

Are the charge pipes made of steel by chance, they dont feel like alluminum?

[KeWLKaT]

Are the charge pipes made of steel by chance, they dont feel like alluminum?

I was wondering the same thing the other day, they seem heavier than aluminium.

[dmdicks]

They are mandrel bent steel.

[slow 2K2GT]

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

I did the whole warm up thing with it today and then took it for a test spin, drove nice and smooth. When I got back and checked everything my coolant overflow tank was dumping out cloudy coolant, like a blown headgasket. I checked my oil, no coolant in there. I checked the spark plugs they were clean too. I dont know what is going on but the car is not over heating at all, I am so pissed right now. Did a compression check and everything came back ok. DAMN!!!! My coolant return line has an uphill incline to it right out of the turbo could this be it??? Help im so mad and upset all at the same time!

Should I take off the valve cover and re-torque the headbolts while the engine is warm? Ahh nothing makes sense to me...

[Cypher]

intake manifold gasket. check it.

[slow 2K2GT]

IM gasket? what would that have to do with it, my mind is in shambles Jim buddy.

[KeWLKaT]

seriously lol

[Cypher]

well i haven't seen IM gaskets go on I4s but on V motors when the gasket goes you can see coolant in the oil or vice versa, compression will be fine but still be burning off coolant.

[KeWLKaT]

wtf? how is that?

[Cypher]

coolant runs through the IM to help keep it cooler. with a bad gasket the coolant can leak out into oil passages or oil can get in coolant, burn off lots of coolant. Often gives signs of a BHG but alot easier for obvious reason.

i had the same issue go wrong with the truck. tho this was because of my brother incorrectly installing the IM. my co-workers van has the same problem right now. hes burning off coolant like crazy tho his isn't mixing because of a bad gaskets.

edit: wait. my brain just kicked in. not possible on Inline motors!

[slow 2K2GT]

exactly, the only place that coolant flows through that is in the TB, I have the bypass done on it too. Well as I have been driving around my engine oil level remains the same and there is no more build up in the coolant. As the cooling system pressuizes I open the cap and scoop off the sludge. I think that there may have been some oil get into a water jacket during tear down, regardless I am doing a complete flush tomorrow. A guy on NT had the same problem, BestRedRide I think, he flushed and the problem was solved. So with that I will update tomorrow when everything is said and done. Thanks guys.

[Keyan]

coolant runs through the IM to help keep it cooler. with a bad gasket the coolant can leak out into oil passages or oil can get in coolant, burn off lots of coolant. Often gives signs of a BHG but alot easier for obvious reason.

i had the same issue go wrong with the truck. tho this was because of my brother incorrectly installing the IM. my co-workers van has the same problem right now. hes burning off coolant like crazy tho his isn't mixing because of a bad gaskets.

edit: wait. my brain just kicked in. not possible on Inline motors!


You deserve the Dee Dee Dee award.... :D

[KeWLKaT]

hahahahahahahahaahah cypher you suck

[yamaha]

:owned:

[slow 2K2GT]

Ughhh, I just took it out for another spin, I cant get over how it sounds and drives and....man I missed my car! I keep scooping the crap off the top and it looks more and more normal each time. Overall I am pretty thrilled with this kit, and I cant wait to put some boost into the engine because just the sound is killing me, gawd. Hopefully by the end of this week my "Mahonroy" midpipe will be here so I can finish all this stuff up.

[Cypher]

well sorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry. i've become acustomed to working on BIGGER engines then the little 2.0

[KeWLKaT]

well sorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry. i've become acustomed to working on BIGGER engines then the little 2.0

wait since when do we own engines bigger than 2.0 liters on an ELANTRA site????

i dont care if you worked on a 890,234.6 liter engine, it doesnt apply to this site :abovelol:

just messin with ya man

[Cypher]

its cool man. my mind has been everywhere but "here" lately, in case you haven't noticed hah.

[KeWLKaT]

yeah what you been up to


been doing crack?

[slow 2K2GT]

Ah come on Felix take it easy on em' ...hes busy we all know how it is!

[only1db]

your postive all of the gaskets are seated correctly and you did the correct sequence??

toymachine actually had the same issue and it was a warped head...but he didnt installed the head correctly after taking the head for the decomp plate..

did you drain the coolant and oil passages...there should be a drain on the engine to do this...i dont know where it is though...

[slow 2K2GT]

I think I may have found the issue, I had the PCV line from the IM to the valve cover hooked up so when I went under pressure, but not into the boost threshold it was adding pressure to the oil system...yada yada yada I think you can see where this is going.

[only1db]

lets hope it didnt pressurize it too much and damage a seal

[slow 2K2GT]

well 18L of coolant and 3 flushes later, my coolant is clear'ish again, its got a murky tinge to it but its transparent so I am happy for now, I will do an oil change in a week and the coolant again at the same time.

[only1db]

yeah that would be good idea

[slow 2K2GT]

Nope still happening! I think there must be an oil seal gone in the turbo, its got all the tell tale signs, though im gonna get a cyl compression test on monday to rule the head and block out. After that I will have to disconnect the water cooling lines from the turbo and get ready to send it away for service.

[Cypher]

damn. alpine's really not looking too good.

[slow 2K2GT]

I cant blame Alpine here, nor should anyone point fingers. There has to be more to this than just a blown seal in the turbo, I have to put in 1L of oil every 100km and empty my overflow tank at that time too. I need to have my head checked again just to be sure. These are my options;

-Cylinder leak down test to maybe find a leak, this would also tell me if things were a little warped.
-Remove downpipe from turbo and check for oil and water in there, this will tell me if the seals are gone.
-Remove coolant lines from turbo and cap them off to see also if seals in the turbo are shot...(though im not sure how safe this is, I PM dmdicks about it)
-Torque head bolts down again, though there are no obvious fluids leaking from the head.

I have a few options here and I need to find a sollution as this fill and empty is becoming tedious!

[Cypher]

you shouldn't have to retorque. they aren't ARPs or anything.

[only1db]

yea h they are actually stretch type and if you retorque them...you might not get teh same torque...or not enough torque...there is NO reason to retorque them...

how did you take the head off??? did you do the reverse order and go little by little?? crack one bolt at a time?? then torque down in the proper order?? did you oil the headbolts before putting them in??? you must slather the headbolts with oil...dry torque is very different from wet torque. if not you could have warped the head and this is why your leaking so much and still clearing crap out from your system...or it could just be the residue left in the radiator and other parts like the heating system.

[Cypher]

actually you don't have to "slather" the headbolts with oil. you're supposed to "apply a light coating of oil" or use a grease thats approved (like my arp grease)

[only1db]

what i normally do is dip the bolt into the oil bottle and let it drain a little then put it in...not like gobbs but a lite slathering...i guess my vocab is a little different...

[slow 2K2GT]

Nope I had dry torque on the bolts, thats what I was told from Hyundai to do, huh! When I removed the head I cracked the bolts in order and loosened each a little, then on the second pass I pulled them out the whole way. I loosened and tighened in the proper order though. For tightening I did it in 4 passes, 6ft/lbs at a time and then the 65 degree turn on each. I dont think that what I am getting is just left over crap from my radiator, I emptied and flushed it pretty damn good, when I did that I emptied my overflow can, I drove 20km and it was full of that milky oil that floats to the top of the rad...oil leak somewhere!

[only1db]

dry uh??

well the only place that oil and coolant even come close is at the head...so it has to be the turbo mixing things up or the head...

[slow 2K2GT]

Well I just pulled the downpipe off and the turbine is dry as a bone, its just starting to turn black from exhaust gasses. So tomorrow I will disconnect the coolant to the turbo, flush the system again and run it like that just to verify that it isnt the turbo. After ive dont that I will get a leak down test to see just where the leak is and then go from there.

I dont know what to say, the car runs perfect other than the coolant issue.

[only1db]

and so did toymachines...we dyno'd like that!

[slow 2K2GT]

**** I went back to that thread, yeah my coolant looks like baby poo too. Guess I should get ahold of a yard and get a new head.

[Rystibby04]

another head...hmm looks like the decompression plates are bad news bears....

[slow 2K2GT]

Its not the plates, there are many others out there with no troubles and run a decomp plate...or at least I hope its not the plate. I will be sure later in the week when I have a chance to get mine taken off and sent to a machinist.

[KeWLKaT]

dry uh??

well the only place that oil and coolant even come close is at the head...so it has to be the turbo mixing things up or the head...

that is close to IMPOSSIBLE since the waterjackets are in the CAST of the turbo itself and nowhere close to the oil, unless the center core is cracked, lol

[only1db]

^ what do know...it was just a suggestion...and i guess if it was cracked he would coolant in his oil as well.

[KeWLKaT]

yeah but comon how the hell would he crack the cast center core in like a week lol

COMON DONNIE DONT GIVE UP GODDAMMIT

[slow 2K2GT]

I dont think its possible to crack that, especially since I didnt boost it.

I took my chances like I mentioned in the flame thread and things seem to be working well for now, but just incase I put a 4L jug of oil in the trunk and a 2L container of coolant...plus I always have the tools to do most repairs if needed.

*crosses fingers!*

[toymachine566]

phewww, I hope that is the case, cause now you've got me worried about using the plate on my new motor. But before my engine failure I had the leftover "baby-poo-residue" left in my coolant system and after three to six full flushes there was nothing left. I guess installing a decompression plate requires a little more finness then I thought.

[dmdicks]

The Stainless Steel decomp plates will not cause any problems unless they have severe deep scratches in them. The key to a leak free seal is NEW head bolts and gaskets. Also we've found that torqueing the head bolts to about 55-60 total ft/lbs ensures a leak proof seal.

[slow 2K2GT]

I think the total torque on the bolts today was about 50ft/lbs, you can really feel the squish when you start putting that much pressure on the bolts.

[KeWLKaT]

i guess you didnt read the thread huh

they are new head bolts and gaskets

btw did you ship out my turbo yet?

[slow 2K2GT]

*said in the best possible pirate voice*

Ghargghhh!!! Felix ya be hijackin me thread!!!!

[05xd]

yarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! lol
I know the spacer will only go on one way front to back but would it matter if the headspacer was put on upside down?

[slow 2K2GT]

it cant go on upside down because two of the headbolts are thicker than the others and will only fit into two holes in the spacer and the HGs...those two bolts are the two furthest right side bolts, one top one bottom.

[only1db]

again...i'm glad you were able to figure it out...

man toy was ****ting bricks!! and yes....finess is the answer and why we are going to be doing it out of the car...its just easier to line things up

now after awhile you gots to get to the dyno!

[slow 2K2GT]

I will dyno thats for damn sure, I need to get the boost up to 17psi first though. Actually I may leave it at 15 just incase there is a boost spike, but we will see what the dyno guys want to do.

[toymachine566]

are you running 15psi via the MBC or just what it comes set at?

Glad you got your problems sorted out, now I too can relax :P

[KeWLKaT]

Yeah man set it at 15ish because of the spikes! I was running it 10 psi and would get spikes to 11-12 sometimes!

[slow 2K2GT]

Thats my plan, just incase. I took my first highway drive today and let me tell the guys who dont know, this kit is the shiznit (though on heavy boost you can almost watch the fuel needle drop). I couldnt get over how hard the car pulled even in 5th gear, it was unbelieveable...I am so happy with the Alpine kit!

Thanks Dave for the flash, thanks everyone for the help, thanks "rane" for the kickin deal on the kit!!!!

are you running 15psi via the MBC or just what it comes set at?

Glad you got your problems sorted out, now I too can relax :P

No I am still at 12psi until the engine has had some time to adjust and the turbo got some use, I should be hooking up my turbosmart MBC within the next week, probably once I get my larger midpipe from Mahonroy installed.

[BlueRush]

We must have some Videos of this man! I've been thinking of suppercharging, but was thinking of manufacturing soming as I have the resources locally to do so. Any way, VIDEOS please!!!

[slow 2K2GT]

I will try to get out to the highway tomorrow with a passenger to do some filming so you guys can see and hear.

I had my engine codes read today, they were all associated with my rear o2 sensor not being hooked up, I did have one for my MAP that said "MAP high input", so I had them cleared and drove away. I love this car so much!!!!

[Cypher]

i hope you plan to get a wideband soon.

[slow 2K2GT]

soon enough Jim, thats my next purchase.

[05xd]

So what fixed the problem.I read thru both threads and didn't see it

[slow 2K2GT]

I torqued down my head bolts to about 55ft/lbs

I drove to Ottawa today, which round trip is about 300km, boosted a ton and didnt drop any oil.

[05xd]

Awesome to hear.did you get my pm about the anti foulers been shipped?

[dmdicks]

I'm glad your problems are sorted out. I told you boost was addicting. Alpine's kits may not be the prettiest but they work the BEST and WILL NEVER FAIL!! As to your MAP high code let me know if it comes back. If it does all you need to do is adjust the Turbo Module clamp. Not a big deal. I'm always here to help....even if you didn't buy the kit new... ;)

[slow 2K2GT]

Awesome to hear.did you get my pm about the anti foulers been shipped?

Yes I did thanks a lot man!!!

I'm glad your problems are sorted out. I told you boost was addicting. Alpine's kits may not be the prettiest but they work the BEST and WILL NEVER FAIL!! As to your MAP high code let me know if it comes back. If it does all you need to do is adjust the Turbo Module clamp. Not a big deal. I'm always here to help....even if you didn't buy the kit new... ;)

Ok thanks again Dave, youve been a huge help.

[toymachine566]

I'm glad your problems are sorted out. I told you boost was addicting. Alpine's kits may not be the prettiest but they work the BEST and WILL NEVER FAIL!! As to your MAP high code let me know if it comes back. If it does all you need to do is adjust the Turbo Module clamp. Not a big deal. I'm always here to help....even if you didn't buy the kit new... ;)

dm, could you elaborate on the module clamp fix? I had some MAF codes (low/hi input) before my motor went and was thinking maybe the boost had something to do with it. I bought a new MAF, but it wouldnt hurt to ask in case it happens again :)

Sorry for the hi-jack Slow 2K2GT:redface:

[05xd]

Your maf went because of how much oil k&n uses on their filters.Mine crapped out too

/hijack

[slow 2K2GT]

*In best pirate voice*

Gyarrrghhh! What ye be doing hijackin me thread!!! This not be the time for tomfoolery!

[toymachine566]

lol, hows traction for you BTW? have you tried punching it from a stop or even a mild roll yet? I wonder what the difference in lag is between the 13g and the 15t? (of course theres the size of the FIMC that has a role in it as well)

[KeWLKaT]

Alpine's kits NEVER FAIL!!

:rolleyes:

[slow 2K2GT]

traction is a little iffy at times, if I punch it I have nothing until mid 3rd gear.

[Cypher]

hah felix. i was waiting for someone to say something!

[KeWLKaT]

well i cant say much considering im still waiting for my goddamn turbo that was supposed to ship on friday

it seems that if you dont call there every day and harass them nothing happens

[dmdicks]

Hmm...did you ever ship back your original downpipe? Do you realize how much time/money we've spent trying to satisfying you? Yes your turbo was supposed to ship on Friday. The UPS guy never came by to pick it up. It went on Monday. I honestly don't know of a single company that would have put up with your slanderous comments and still even bothered to help you. Alpine, and I are done helping you Felix.

[slow 2K2GT]

well i cant say much considering im still waiting for my goddamn turbo that was supposed to ship on friday

it seems that if you dont call there every day and harass them nothing happens

Talk to any person at a postal outlet, Friday is the single worst day for anything to ship. If they happen to get it there is no processing done at all that day, when they come back in on Monday they have to tackle the new week details before they get to Fridays stuff again. Monday is the best time for anything to ship out because its fresh in peoples minds and wont sit all weekend while people pound back the pints.

[KeWLKaT]

alright dmdicks.

my original downpipe? how about you pay for shipping and ill ship it to you? i dont understand why if YOU guys screw up and make a faulty part, I have to pay for YOUR mistakes.

Once again. I work in customer service in two companies and YOU are a douche. Not Alpine. YOU, DMDICKS, are truly a DICK, it's even in your nickname.

I appreciate John, and love talking to him. If one day you pickup the phone at alpine i'll probably tell you to **** off.

Oh, and, dave, if i suddenly start posting about how ****ty of a company alpine really is and you stop making sales because of that, it will be YOUR fault.

Oh, I almost forgot, don't go crying when you go out of business when NGM is going to finish their I4 supercharger INTERCOOLED kit. It seems they understood it right in the first place, lol.

[slow 2K2GT]

So it turns out that the camera I used didnt record sound so the videos are useless, but I did take one pic, no matter how many times I look its still beautiful!

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Engine_Complete.JPG

[dmdicks]

Looking good slow. Be wary of your Nology plug wires. We've seen them do some funky things electronically.

[toymachine566]

yup looks good, next is some track times or dyno sheets :)...................or both :D

[slow 2K2GT]

Looking good slow. Be wary of your Nology plug wires. We've seen them do some funky things electronically.

Ive actually heard that about them, especially on a boosted engine so I may be switching back to my stock wires for now. What kind of things have you seen go wrong with them?

[Cypher]

right on felix. haha but stop taking donnie's thread off track ;)

[toymachine566]

Ive actually heard that about them, especially on a boosted engine so I may be switching back to my stock wires for now. What kind of things have you seen go wrong with them?

I'm not sure if he posted up about them or not. but rystibby04 had some issues with his car because they shorted out on him. I dont remember the exact issues but he was saying how he had smoke everywhere, misfiring, etc. He changed back to stock wires and everything ran perfect since.

Edit: here's a link (not the most coherent but one instance of hotwires going bad)

http://newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91676&highlight=plug+wires

EDIT 2: heres the sister thread

http://newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91623

[KeWLKaT]

To give you an exmaple donnie, I had magncore wires before and then when I changed back to (new) stock wires it was 300% better! I think the stock wires are perfect (unless you want something cool and red looking)

[Cypher]

anybody have a reason for why?

[KeWLKaT]

I think the thing is that stock wires are made with the correct impedance so the stock timing retard/advance works the right way.

Mess with that, and you mess with the timing. Thats my theory (i think)

[slow 2K2GT]

Well thats good enough for me, tomorrow I take them off. Just in case because I havent had enough troubles thus far.

[Mahonroy]

Yeah go with the stock ones, and there is this stuff u can get at the hardware store, anyone know the name? What it is, is this can of red goo, and you dip stuff in it, let it dry, dip again, etc. until you get a thick coat, and it hardens like rubber (I used it for wheel barrel handels), I think that would be pretty cool on stock wires.
Anyone know what its called?

Yeah looking good though for sure!

[bmxdad]

Liquid rubber ... you use it for making water proof gloves ... and handles :)

[slow 2K2GT]

I installed replacement midpipe that I got from Mahonroy tonite, it replaced the factory flexpipe and cat section. It was a biotch to get to go on right but I did manage after some twisting and steel splinters in my palm. BUT what a difference over having that stock restricitive pipe in the way. As of right now im running catless due to no emissions tests or regualtions in my area, but will be putting one on very soon.

[dmdicks]

We've actually seen spark jumping from wire to wire with the Nology ones. We've also seen the wires cause interuptions with the OEM crank signal.

[KeWLKaT]

We've actually seen spark jumping from wire to wire with the Nology ones. We've also seen the wires cause interuptions with the OEM crank signal.

holy sheet!

how the hell does that happen?

could it be because of those fancy shmancy ground wires on them? what do they do anyways... lol

[slow 2K2GT]

I am not really sure what they do but my OEM wires are back on and I will sell the Nology wires to an unsuspecting Hyundai ricer around the area that likes to speed around town...I really hate that guy.

Arghhhh! Still leaking but not much. It seems to only be happening at idle so I think that the compression seals in the turbo may be the culprit. So this mean I need to unhook the cooling lines from the turbo and just run oil.

[chris929]

I've got the Magnecore's on my setup and am quite happy with them- they look hot too....lol

[KeWLKaT]

I am not really sure what they do but my OEM wires are back on and I will sell the Nology wires to an unsuspecting Hyundai ricer around the area that likes to speed around town...I really hate that guy.

Arghhhh! Still leaking but not much. It seems to only be happening at idle so I think that the compression seals in the turbo may be the culprit. So this mean I need to unhook the cooling lines from the turbo and just run oil.

dude i told you.... the water jackets are in the CAST there are no water seals...

so what im trying to say is that if you still have a leak its the head, dude.

I've got the Magnecore's on my setup and am quite happy with them- they look hot too....lol

where the heck to you live in canada? I never heard of you

[bmxdad]

If your leaking oil in you turbo, have you check for a good return?

What about the pressure going into the turbo? Is oil coming from the block or the head? You only need like 10 - 20 lbs of pressure, getting up to 40+ will push the seal out of the way ...

If your leaking oil in you turbo, have you check for a good return?

What about the pressure going into the turbo? Is oil coming from the block or the head? You only need like 10 - 20 lbs of pressure, getting up to 40+ will push the seal out of the way ...

... and like he said, the coolant is in the casting surrounding the bearing ... no seals to worry about. You will have issues if you remove the water cooling ...

[chris929]

I'm from Edmonton :)...I have a Tib too, I usually sneak around on xd.com and keep my eye on you guys :D

[slow 2K2GT]

You will have issues if you remove the water cooling ...
Why would there be issues with removing the water cooling? I see plenty of water cooled turbos running without coolant lines, the oil and water have two separate sections in the center piece.

Oh I installed my MBC today, didnt like the way the car felt with it so I took it out. I noticed when I took the car out on the highway and put my foot down that my boost gauge in 2nd gear was at 14psi, in 3rd gear I had 17psi, 4th was about right at 13psi. Im not sure what the deal is with my wastegate but that aint no 12psi cutoff.

[KeWLKaT]

man ill buy your MBC if you want, lol

[slow 2K2GT]

PM sent!

[only1db]

what is the actuator set at?? i thought you had the 17psi flash?? did the turbo come to match??

[toymachine566]

Why would there be issues with removing the water cooling? I see plenty of water cooled turbos running without coolant lines, the oil and water have two separate sections in the center piece.

Oh I installed my MBC today, didnt like the way the car felt with it so I took it out. I noticed when I took the car out on the highway and put my foot down that my boost gauge in 2nd gear was at 14psi, in 3rd gear I had 17psi, 4th was about right at 13psi. Im not sure what the deal is with my wastegate but that aint no 12psi cutoff.

did you adjust it at all? did it creep to 17psi or just spike there? How long did you make the lines to connect the MBC?

I thought that these are some of the turn-off's to MBC's (mainly the creeping I think), but then again, it very well could be your wastegate also.....

EDIT: dang Derek beat me to some of my questions :P

[slow 2K2GT]

what is the actuator set at?? i thought you had the 17psi flash?? did the turbo come to match??

I do have the 17psi flash but I think that the wastegate is only set to 12, guess I could be wrong though. Oh the boost went up to 17psi without the MBC connected. I put it on later in hopes of holding the boost at 15psi with it installed.

[KeWLKaT]

I know.....

The alpine kit is so.... no comments....

My boost went up to 12 psi once and it was still set at 7!!!!!! (untouched)

the best bet is to adjust your wastegate yourslef, make the rod longer.

trust me there is a lot of **** that breaks on the alpine kits, just WAIT until your downpipe studs start falling off in a couple weeks.

[only1db]

^ yeah i dont get that...

i think the only left of toys kit is the unichip...and other random things.

[slow 2K2GT]

I dont worry about the DP studs, I had the machine shop tac weld them into place on the ends so they wouldnt come unthreaded, only because I noticed that once heated a few times they almost seemed too small. Simple fix though, I am happy with my kit.

[only1db]

i guess that will do it...

[chris929]

I've had my kit for a year now....no problems with the dp studs and all in all no major problems with the kit itself. The biggest issue i've been struggling with has been misfires- and I hope to solve that issue with the addition of the MSD DIS 2 which I will hopefully throw on tomorrow.

I gotta say guys, I've been very happy with my setup. Although Alpine has their issues, they have been there when I really need them.

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok Felix I can now understand how much you would miss your boost when it was gone. I couldnt go without it now, there is ample power now to pass cars. I think my favorite gear is 3rd by far, but I find you really need to time your manouvers just right. When I pull out to pass I use to crawl right up on the vehicles *** and then go, tried that the other day and the boost kicked in and I almost put my car into his...none the less its a lot of fun.

[KeWLKaT]

^^ Im still missing it damnit

Going to go pick it up from customs tomorrow!!!!

The turbo is going back on ASAP **** that next weekend fo sho!!!!!!

[slow 2K2GT]

thats right buddy get boosted again! I want to pick up a BBTB now so I actually have some use out of my IM.

[only1db]

where are the vid clips???

did you get an CEL's??

[slow 2K2GT]

I have a CEL for my rear o2 but thats about it. I dont have a camera that records sound though looking into one.

Actually I woke up this morning and my rear passenger side tire was flat so I need to look into new rims and rubber tomorrow.

[Cypher]

sounds like you're plenty happy with everything donnie. i'm glad to hear.

[KeWLKaT]

...until the components start to break one by one, lol

[chris929]

....I lyed lol, I just checked and i'm missing a stud off the d.p...haha.

Whats the best/easiest way to stop this from happening again? I know Slow said he tac welded his, any other way>?

[slow 2K2GT]

I guess you could have the holes tapped for larger studs and have them installed.

[KeWLKaT]

I just put in some good BOLTS with a lockwasher, ran about 2000 km with it before turbo was taken off, still good and tight as an asian as we speak!

[chris929]

lol...ya im somewhat hesitant to use locktite since I plan to swap turbos this summer so maybe i'll go with the locking washers

[slow 2K2GT]

Finally I went out and got a decent digital camera. I picked up a 5.1mp Fuji with a 10x optical zoom. NOW I will get a video or two for you guys.

[robs02elantra]

nice....looking forward to it

[dmdicks]

I have a CEL for my rear o2 but thats about it. I dont have a camera that records sound though looking into one.

Actually I woke up this morning and my rear passenger side tire was flat so I need to look into new rims and rubber tomorrow.

Get a spark plug non-fouler and put it between the 2nd O2 and exhaust pipe. This will take away the CEL.

[slow 2K2GT]

05xd sent me some im just waiting for them to come in.

[only1db]

pardon my ignorance...but i have heard of a nonfouler...but what is it?? and how does it work?

[KeWLKaT]

Its like a cylinder that takes away the sensor from the exhaust and spaces it out, so it can read less stuff

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok heres a few pics of the pillar I got from Carbonman, I love how it fits, great quality.

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0448.JPG

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0447.JPG

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0446.JPG

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0445.JPG

[05xd]

Does that pod replace the whole pillar or just half of it?
Looks awesome man

[slow 2K2GT]

That replaces the whole thing. For it to fit properly I had to remove the plastic pieces that were underneath the OEM pillar.

[05xd]

Sweet,me wants it.I hate how mine only replaced half of the pillar.

[only1db]

that is one sick pillar!!

kewl...thanks...so it just keeps the main stream from hitting the 02

[KeWLKaT]

kewl...thanks...so it just keeps the main stream from hitting the 02

Bingo! You got it 150% :cool:

[htekric3r1200]

comon man kdmguy doenst have an lsd with his 400hp setup and brings it to the track, he just said you get used to the torque and drive accordingly.

not everyone is willing to dish out 1000$+ for a peice of equipment that not a lot of us have had...

Apparantely KDMguy, aka Jay did have a 1.5way KAZZ lsd

http://www.kdmstuff.com/infodesk/banner.php?number=56

A bit pricely like you said

[KeWLKaT]

I remember him saying something like

"My tranny is stock, but you get used to the torque steer after a while''

I guess he upgraded afterwards.

The kaaz one is kind of useless since it uses clutches and you have to service them every 20,000 miles or so

[htekric3r1200]

I remember him saying something like

"My tranny is stock, but you get used to the torque steer after a while''

I guess he upgraded afterwards.

The kaaz one is kind of useless since it uses clutches and you have to service them every 20,000 miles or so

He did end up getting rid of it though. Pretty impractical like you have mentioned.

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok tonite I am working on a small video for you guys, tomorrow I will do something a little more...updates to follow

[05xd]

You get it running right?

[Cypher]

Yes, there are 2 BOVs. I wanted it loud so we put two in there. :D
Differential is stock, and torque steer is always there for FF cars.
However, skilled driver can control torque steer especially @ drag events.
I've been driving turbo tiburon for a while, so I am used to controlling it

boo yah, for felix

[slow 2K2GT]

yeah its up and running right again, I just had to deal with the MBC to compensate for the ****ty wastegate actuator...I ordered a 15psi one from greddy so when that arrives I will be good to go.

[chris929]

Hey is there a 15 psi wastegate actuator available for the 13G turbo?

[slow 2K2GT]

im sure there is you just need to do some poking around the net. Wastegates are pretty universal im sure there is one, but 15psi on a 13g is pushing the capabilities of that small turbo a little far....not that my 15g is much bigger right?

[only1db]

15psi for the 13g is really pushing it...i would not go past 10psi on it...remember too that what you read at the intake manifold will always be a little lower than what the turbo is producing...

i think that much boost your hitting the edge of the efficency range...

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok well heres the first of a few videos. Just a short clip of how the ARK V6 exhaust sounds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-r63pmtxRF0

[chris929]

I've read that the 13G can handle 15 psi ok, toymachine is running his at 15 isnt he?

[toymachine566]

I've read that the 13G can handle 15 psi ok, toymachine is running his at 15 isnt he?

i was, now I will be incorporating a td04hl 16t in my kit instead. but with the 13g at 15psi and a "huge" intercooler i pulled off 200whp and 230 lbs of torque :D

[chris929]

so outta curiousity will most mitsubishi turbos fit on our slpine setups?

[jalmir]

yup, most MHI turbos are just bolt-on upgrades (well, at least the TD04/TD05 series)

[toymachine566]

Ok well heres the first of a few videos. Just a short clip of how the ARK V6 exhaust sounds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-r63pmtxRF0

video doesnt work at the moment :(

[hyunelan2]

^^Worked fine for me just now.

[jalmir]

same here, worked no problem from work!

[toymachine566]

yup worked now :)

sounds mean, now a driveby video :P

[KeWLKaT]

Thing with the driveby is you want your car to be clean and look good at the same time, which is something I'm lacking at the moment, I'm waiting a couple weeks to do that myself :D

[Cypher]

15psi for the 13g is really pushing it...i would not go past 10psi on it...remember too that what you read at the intake manifold will always be a little lower than what the turbo is producing...

i think that much boost your hitting the edge of the efficency range...

yes but tapping the boots controller up by the IM will show what the engine is actually seeing. since you'll have some pressure drop because of the IC. i wouldn't sweat 15psi. check out the compressor map. just don't run it any higher. the heat generated by the extra lbs would negate any gains.

[slow 2K2GT]

So after 5000km of boost, I did my first major inspection. Plugs turned out to be fine, tomorrow is compression test just so I know. I had some oil dripping from my T-fitting where my oil pressure gauge line and turbo oil feed line go into, forgot to put thread sealant on one of the fittings so it leaked, yuck, but not a whole lot thank goodness. I am still getting a little oil in my coolant but I will worry about that over the winter when I pull the engine again. Again while driving the other night I got that same loud clunk that seemed to break my wastegate, dont know why but I will check how much boost I am making without my boost controller.

Other than that little stuff I am pretty happy with my Alpine kit, if only there was a way to save on fuel now!

[toymachine566]

sweet, I hear ya on the oil/coolant combo. Come next year I'll be ditching the head spacer for some actual low com pistons. Looks like for now, a coolant flush every month lol

[slow 2K2GT]

I dont even have to do that, as long as there is coolant in the overflow there is never oil in the rad. I am leaking such a tiny amount that it doesnt even matter to me, the overflow tank never fills up and the coolant in my rad is almost perfect looking.

I will be getting a set of 1.8's for the winter just because I hate the whine of the timing belt with the decomp plate in. My car sounds like a sewing machine!

I did a compression test tonite and all cylinders came back 145psi. Seems low but remember this is at 8:1 compression, I am not exactly sure what the compression level should be at but after 5 seconds of cranking on each cylinder they all came back the same.

[slow 2K2GT]

Thanks to Caledonian from NT.com and his remarkable T-mod diagram and MAP clamp instruction I no longer have a CEL for the "MAP high input". I should be shooting for 4.45v but for right now I am sitting at 4.06v, I will adjust more tomorrow because its storming right now. He told me that 1/2 turn = 0.09v +/-, so im not that far off, maybe 2 turns should be good.

I was turning my trim screw clockwise and it had to go counter clockwise.

NO MORE CEL....WOOT!

[yamaha]

Good?

[slow 2K2GT]

Yeah I am happy, more satisfied then anything. Dont think that CEL was a really bad one but its gone and im happy!

[Cypher]

haven't heard of that before. link to it?

glad that cel is gone!

[slow 2K2GT]

Here the diagram that was sent to me.

http://www.elantraxd.com/photopost/data/500/CAZEUL7B.jpg

With the help of a multimeter, its easy to get things right.

sweet, I hear ya on the oil/coolant combo. Come next year I'll be ditching the head spacer for some actual low com pistons. Looks like for now, a coolant flush every month lol

I dont have to do a coolant flush every month, I just keep fresh coolant in the overflow tank and the rad stays clear all the time.

[caledonian]

Yeah I am happy, more satisfied then anything. Dont think that CEL was a really bad one but its gone and im happy!

Hey, I'm glad it worked out for you. The CEL isn't a bad one, it's just really annoying to look at. :)

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok I found out my plans for the winter, now that my budget is back in order. I talked to the shop that did the tapping for me at the start of this project today. I am going to drop off my block with a set of 1.8 R/P and new bearings, they are going to balance everything, sandblast the block and repaint it, clean out all the passages, and level the block. This will cost me $420, they will also send away my head and port it for me, the shop has to send away things for balancing but they can do the porting with their flowbench for me. I told him that I was worried about hot spots in the combustion chamber and its ability to cause detonation. In total I am looking at $700, every thing apart, worked on and put back together.

[chris929]

holy ****! $700 is one HELL of a deal man.

[slow 2K2GT]

yeah I know, the block itself was $420, so to get the head done for that little extra is great. I am more concerned about getting the bottom end balanced, they do it with the flywheel and everything. I will have to get a new friciton surface from Fidanza before all that work gets done.

[Cypher]

thats a hell of a price. personally i'd install everything then bring it to them for balancing, save a little bit of money that way.

[slow 2K2GT]

if its only gonna cost $420 then I will let them do it all. I just hand it to them and call it done, I pick it up a month later and its all set to go back in the car.

[slow 2K2GT]

Hows this for exchange rate....lol

I just ordered the 1.8s off of SFR, they are 299us. I paid 285cdn!

HMA makes the install seem really complicated...can someone who has installed pistons before shed some light on this for me.

[Keyan]

install rods in pistons.

install rings on pistons

install ring compressor on piston

slide piston into cylinder

install rod caps onto crank

the end.

[Cypher]

don't forget: install bearings into the actual rods dry, once they are in put oil on them before installing on the crank and use plenty of oil when sliding into the cylinder. Not a hard job, just take your time and make sure its all done properly.

You'll likely need to take the pistons/rods to a machine shop and get the wrist pins pressed into the rods.

[slow 2K2GT]

install rods in pistons.

install rings on pistons

install ring compressor on piston

slide piston into cylinder

install rod caps onto crank

the end.\


HMA is saying stuff about spacers, having to keep the gaps of the piston rings at opposite sides of the piston to each other...Its the spacer thing that throws me for a loop.

[Cypher]

spacers? and yeah I'd try to make the gaps oppisite each other if possible. I'll look it up later and see what this spacer thing is.

[BlueRush]

I beleive the spacer is the tool you would use to ensure the rings are gapped correctly.

[slow 2K2GT]

I got my head gasket and new bearings today. Still confused about the install though, lol.

[RTPScoupe]

What shop are you getting this done at? Its a good deal.

[slow 2K2GT]

I bought the rods and pistons from SFR, I got the bearings and HG from the dealership.

[dmdicks]

If your doing the install instead of the shop, you need to get a ring gapper. You'll need to measure the ring gap by placing the top 2 rings in the cylinder and measure the gap between the ends. As long as this gap is between OEM specs your good to go. If its not then you'll have to file the ends to get it as close as possible.
Also install your rings so that the gaps don't line up to each other or to the ends of the wrist pins. So they will pretty much be in a X type pattern. Wrist pins will have to be pressed in to the rods.

[slow 2K2GT]

Thanks Dave! That makes more sense to me.

[slow 2K2GT]

YAY my 1.8s arrived today, only downfall is there were no piston rings in the box. I hope that SFR can ship them out ASAP so I can begin the install.

[KeWLKaT]

That's why I'll probably be ordering my pistons from kspec, lol

[slow 2K2GT]

Oh dont worry I will get my rings.

[KeWLKaT]

Yeah, but time is a factor ;)

[Cypher]

hahah.... heres what i thought when i saw "time is a factor"

family guy
peter- "lois get the medical dictionary and look up "fork in lung"
lois "why"
peter "times a factor lois"

anyway. Hurry up and get those bishes in!

[slow 2K2GT]

Worse comes to worse, I got and get a set from the dealership and return mine when they arrive from KDMguy. No big hurry here now, the car is off the road for the winter.

[slow 2K2GT]

The rings have shipped out from Korea. I am going to start the motor tear down this weekend, I got all winter so I want to take my time and double check everything I do. Most of the down time will be spent cleaning the misc parts of any oil or dirt, I would really like to pull the block so I can have it painted but that just isnt in my cards right now as I am heading on course in the new year for 9 weeks. So as it stands right now, the motor is getting some new stuff but mostly staying the same.

[slow 2K2GT]

Tomorrow is the install day! I will take pics of the whole process, im an excited boy now...I just hope everything goes as planned.

[Cypher]

Good luck man! I may have to try and call you after work to see how it all went.

[slow 2K2GT]

Hit me with a PM on here before hand cause I am not living at home anymore. I will be sure to leave what details I can about the install here though!

On the subject of the car...is it ok for me to seat the new rings using synthetic oil? Someone mentioned to me that I may have to use a conventional oil, this is something that I am a little unsure of and since I am installing them tomorrow I would like to find an answer ASAP.

[only1db]

no...use regular oil....


buschur racing actaully recommends the following and so do others for that fact...

start the car for the first time....and bring it up to 2000 grand for a couple of minutes.....change the oil again....

take it down the road and tear ***!!!!

you want the rings to seat and by having pressure on them they will....they have to seat because of the little blow by going around (this pushes them towards the wall of the cylinder) and the pressure up top squeezes them even more.

buschur does this with every single motor they have built for the last 15 years...their tear down the road is a full on dyno pull!

after 1200 miles change the oil again and then you can run synthetic.

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok I will go out this morning and pick up a bunch of normal oil for the break in period. Thanks Derek, I didnt really know about this fact. But once im done the break in and change the oil after I "tear *** down the road" I can go back to my synthetic oil right?

[Cypher]

Use conventional oil. Heres what I like to do:

Start it up once and let it warm up to operating temperature, then shut it off and let it cool again. Start it once again and then let it get up to temperature. After that take it out on the road and drive, you don't need to drive it hard but you need to simulate different affects such as: engine breaking, say at like 45 put it into 2nd and let it coast down to about 25, then get on it hard to about 55. The idea is to use the different pressures that you're forcing upon the motor to help seal the rings. If you want I can pull a direct passage out of the book on my bookshelf. Just let me know.

[slow 2K2GT]

Ok well the install is done, took me 6 hours from start to finish using hand tools...but its now done. I am quite pleased with the whole process, car drives well and my timing belt isnt under huge strain anymore. I did manage to take a few pics that I will post up when I can figure out the camera.

[Keyan]

glad to hear it went together with no issues.

[only1db]

please tell me you did what i told you to do....


letting it idle is bad....it does not let the rings seat correctly...sorry cypher but i'm going to have to disagree with you here....idling is bad!

once you run the car down the road like a raped ape....and nothing breaks you good to go...wait 1200 miles or so then change the oil again. you should be good to go!

[Cypher]

"When the engine gets fuel, it will try to start. when the engine coolant reaches normal operating temperature, turn off the engine. Look for coolant or oil leaks. After these checks, run the engine at 1200-1500 rpm during the warm-up period to ensure adequate initial lubrication for the piston rings, pistons and camshaft.

Break-in procedure:
Make a test run at 30 mph and accelerate at full throttle to 50mph. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30-50mph at least ten times. The objective is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after the engine warms up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating."

This is from my big automotive book approved by NATEF. Don't doubt me.

[KeWLKaT]

Yes and according to ANYONE "tearing **** apart'' without letting the engine heat up is VERY VERY BAD for an engine.

[slow 2K2GT]

I made sure to allow things to warm up before the tear down started, once the install was done I allowed the car to reach operating temp, I shut it down and checked for leaks...then I took it out for some driving. I wanted to make sure the engine was at operating temps before I drove it hard in any way...a cold engine and boost do not mix well at all. As of today and driving it all day there are no leaks anywhere, so I am happy for now.

[only1db]

sorry just repeating what buschur said to do and guess what....they havent had an engine fail in 15 years....and we are installing two of these motors into the evos we have at the shop....


and running the car for a couple of minutes at 2k (it will obviously warm up) is not bad at all....its quite obvious that after the several minutes the car will be warmed up and you can go full throttle down the road without any issues...again buschur puts there cars directly onto the dyno....and they do a FULL DYNO RUN!

[slow 2K2GT]

No need to argue and fight in my thread, grrr!

Anyhow, thanks for all the advice and help guys, obviously I was a little lacking in a few things. I will be sure to update with a few pics and details about how the car is running.

[only1db]

cool beans.

you also know that you dropped your compression even more with the rods and pistons...

[slow 2K2GT]

Yes I do know that.

[KeWLKaT]

you also know that you dropped your compression even more with the rods and pistons...

Noooooooooooooooooooo **** sherlock :rolleyes:

[Cypher]

wait what?! you're supposed to raise the compression crazy high with boost!

note: extreme sarcasm.