took system out for body repairs...*pics*

[only1db]

yup...i didnt know if they needed access to my rear quarter or not from the inside...so i took it all out...only a half hour to remove everything and to take the front door panel off with tweet and 6.5 in the door...they are welding on a new door skin...so i dont really trust them to be careful with my $999 speakers...so i took that side out...

i also have pics of the sub box that i made...there was a thread about how small somebodies box was...so here is mine and its tiny! for clarification...this box is the exact amount of cubic feet for 600 watts for the M6 12" sub...the outside of hte box actually has metal reinforcements by the way of framing brackets on all of the angle edges...this box is redicilously strong. yes those are q-tips in the pick...i used them to clean all of the heatsink fins...they were disgusting!!

i also took the skin off and took a pic of the subfloor.

figured i would share whild it was out of the car...BTW...this weighs in at about 75lbs...including the sub that probably weights more than half of that number.

i went for a ride afterwards and it felt lighter but the ride was a little more bouncy in the rear...cant wait to get it back.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/only1db/system1.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/only1db/systemskinless.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/only1db/subbox2.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/only1db/subbox.jpg

[Ugzz]

ahh so thats what an m6 looks like.
i really need to carpet my boxes :)
i love your amp rack, i want to see it installed. plz take pics when its back in. i basically have been wanting to do something similar, but time hasnt been my friend

[only1db]

it pretty much looks the same...

the demensions are a perfect fit with the back of the hatch so it can be taken in and out...i actually padded the sides of the rack so it would "squeeze" inbetween the strut towers...and to keep things from rattling...its nice and solid not going anywhere....whats more important is how it sounds...its definetly function or form...but hey i dont think it looks that bad and has held up for the last three years.

[Munky]

That's a cool little setup you have there, nice work.

[Keyan]

it pretty much looks the same...

the demensions are a perfect fit with the back of the hatch so it can be taken in and out...i actually padded the sides of the rack so it would "squeeze" inbetween the strut towers...and to keep things from rattling...its nice and solid not going anywhere....whats more important is how it sounds...its definetly function or form...but hey i dont think it looks that bad and has held up for the last three years.


yeah dude, I love your setup. I remember at the first allentown meet years ago, when you had the hatch open and you played some heavy rock and then some stairway to heaven, without changing any EQ settings, and me standing 20 feet from the car they both sounded crystal clear, to this day I am still :eek:

[Ugzz]

hey only1db
what interiors do you run? and are both those amps for that 1 sub, or is one for the sub and the other for interiors? also whats the wattage? lol sorry im just interested is all heh

[only1db]

no problem at all!!

yeah keyan...i'm still inmpressed...no so much with my ipod hooked up just because of the way its y connected into my dsp...but i will most definetly bring cds with me to the meet...

uggz...

head unit is an eclipse 8051 with 8 volt preouts and sub control with Digital sound processing controls

then obviosly i have the eclipse DSP that matches the headunit...

the one on the left is an eclipse PA4212 running my M6 (which is a little beat up from a tin can...but still sounds perfect!!) at 600 watts bridged into 1 channel at 4ohms

the one on the right is an eclipse 32440 4 channel amp running at 85x4 at 4ohms...this powers my diamond audio HEX series 6.5 componets with aluminum tweeters and my 6.5 coaxials in the rear hatch...also diamond audio

[Ugzz]

ah i see all diamond speakers. nice indeed. ive yet to hear an all diamond system. ive heard some of their stuff, but never all put together. i bet that sounds amazing!.. i thought i had it pretty nice with my infinity 6.5's, jl 6x9s and infinity 111x4 amp.. but i must say. i am jealous of your interior setup :) and of your awesome looking amp rack. good show
now i have all the more reason to make it out to the meets so i can see it in person

[only1db]

^ no doubt...i think he we had a competition...i would definetly win for clarity...hands down...and thats with any kind of music...i listen to just about everything from club,trance, to hip hop, to rock/alt, to classical...hell even my dad loves it and he listens to big band!!

mind you now...you get what you paid for...retail a system like this would go for close to 3500...i put mine together peacemeal for about 1500 or so...and thats everything off ebay minus the sub.

[Ugzz]

^ yeah i did ebay and just inexpensive online orders I probobly have a $2500 system i paid like 12-1500 for.. but years were spent finding the right clairy vs volume system. some of that was even spent at local stores hence the high price tags.. but after all the tweaking and switching things around my interiors probobly get louder then most peoples without distortion, so loud you really dont want to be in the car anymore lol.. but when im at that volume it might not distort much, but im sure you would hand down crush me in clariy. My next system (which will be progressive.. 200 here 200 there) will be either all diamond, all boston, or a combination of both.. but i think im going to cheap out on the sub amp and get whatever has the best output for the price, probobly hifonics, audiobahn, or power acoustic.. hell maybe even boss, as much as people knocked them i love my boss amp.. its just time for new, that thing was old when i bought it years ago..

as hard as it is to have a system for years then go to nothing, im thinking of parting out my system and starting a new build soon.. just sellin it all for $$ and having NOTHING in the car and usin that $ to start the upgrade.. but its still a thought.. its just such a hard decision hehe. but $$ is so tight with my new house it keeps botching things up..

ok im done rambling :)

[only1db]

yeah i hear ya about trying to find the right stuff...in my excel i had all eclipse speakers 5.25 in the doors, 4in in the dash, and custom 6x9s in the rear seat area...and then a orion xtreme12 in a bandpass...it was ok...but man this one is by far the best yet...it gets pretty loud...like you have to yell to hear the person next to you and its still perfectly clear...

you'll hear when you come down!!

[KeWLKaT]

waiiiiiiiiiiiiit

am i blind or do I see that you wired the caps in series? (to continue the other thread's topic)

[Ugzz]

mm, does look confusing, but that piece of wood blocks the terminals and i cant see whats going on.. either way there doesnt seem t obe enough wires!?
did you leave some wires in the rear when you took it out?

[only1db]

yes the caps are in series...it works better that way...being as the most of hte power is needed by the bass amp...trust me its the best way for my system...most higher end equiptment will want you to do it that way as well...just like batteries...you want them to be in series...not one for one amp...ect.

yes the remote wires are still in the car...the rca's and the main power and grounds are still in the car.

[BlueRush]

yes the caps are in series...it works better that way...being as the most of hte power is needed by the bass amp...trust me its the best way for my system...most higher end equiptment will want you to do it that way as well...just like batteries...you want them to be in series...not one for one amp...ect.

yes the remote wires are still in the car...the rca's and the main power and grounds are still in the car.

Boy I hope those amps are good to 24v or so, cuz:

2x 1 farad caps - In series - 12v Input = 24v 1 farad output


2x 1 farad caps - In parallel - 12v Input = 12v 2 farad output

My $0.02

[KeWLKaT]

Ok sorry to tell you this only1db but that is the funniest thing I ever heard.

Trust me, I am learning advanced electronics in my engineering major and wiring caps in series for this application is USELESS and dangerous.

You wire BATTERIES in series because they're damn batteries.

You wire CAPACITATORS in parallel with your components because they are capacitators.

It's like comparing apples to oranges, caps do NOT work the same way as a battery.


Once again, copy/paste from what I wrote in the other thread:

DONT wire caps in SERIES.

CAPS have to be wired in PARALLEL.

Here's how it works, do the math...
Here C is the capacitance, measured in farads.

In parallel: (total C) = C1 + C2
In series: (total C) = 1/((1/C1)+(1/C2))

You can clearly see that it is WAYYYYY better to put them inparallel. In fact, in your case you will probably get even less capacitance by wiring them in series than if you had only used a single cap.

So, basically, it will look like this:

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6076&stc=1&d=1176188430

[only1db]

damn it now you got me thinking....i was also told by one of my car audio gurus from around my way that this would work better...its been like that for three years...i'm not going to touch it now

[Ugzz]

^ if you have a beefy battery, you may not even need the caps! -there were some cars down at the local lowes theatre last car show that had some cool looking cap setups and at least one person said that although it was hooked up, it doesnt make a diff in his system and it was just for show.. eh appearance before function :thumbsdow in my book :P

on that note, tons of people have a dual battery system and run less then 2k watts, does make it convenient, but its just more parts then necessary imo.
i guess im also used to being on a budget my whole life, so any un-necessary spent $ in my book is a waste heh..

[only1db]

i had a dual battery isolator in my excel...but thats because i had like a 50amp alt...something crazy like that

i have checked it several times in the past...i never had 24 volts...always 14.4....

[KeWLKaT]

How did you check it? did you check the voltage at the amp posts?

And also I believe BlueRush knows what he is talking about as he does audio installs as a LIVING.

[only1db]

at the input side of hte amps...its always been 14.4 nothing more.

either way i have had aboslutely NO issues at all with anything in my system.

just because somebody does something for a living does not mean they know what they are talking about!!

i know more about systems and hooking them up and sq then all the guys at my local circuit city or best buy...they supposedly do it for a living...maybe if he owns his own shop and does 3000 dollar systems all the time...

my setup has been rock solid.