PDA

View Full Version : Red Top or Yellow Top in front???


furcioelbravead
05-01-2007, 01:21 AM
Hello,

Well i already sent the a2300hct for replacement. They charged me 200 and they should be getting me a brand new one with a one year warranty.

I will do the installation next week, but I would like to know what type of battery I should be using under the hood.

I already have a yellow top in the trunk, and a duralast 1000 ca battery in the front which i would like to replace. Should I use another yellow top, or should I choose a red top?

I can get this one for 100 and pick it up. The guy said it was fine since I live right next to him.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Optima-Red-Top-Battery_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33574QQihZ005QQ itemZ150117217619QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Or I can get this one for 120

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Optima-Yellow-Top-Battery_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33574QQihZ005QQ itemZ150117220268QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting


Any opinions?

|2oo
05-01-2007, 06:52 AM
go the yellow top and if you can afford it get a group 31 its a more powerful version of it

NY2002ElantraGT
05-01-2007, 11:29 AM
I have a yellow top.... definately reccomend it. but realize those auctions have 6 days left and the price will JUMP to almost $200

Ugzz
05-01-2007, 02:50 PM
id say yellow. i LOVE mine, ive had 3 in 3 diff cars (i always sell it with the car), had trouble with my first one, but it was replaced for free. the batterys always last longer then the cars i have lol

if you dont get a good deal on that auction,
i got mine 165.02 shipped from batteryjack.com, they also own bigtimebattery.com, and each site runs diff specials..

kizzo
05-07-2007, 01:10 AM
you might just be better off going to autozone or napa and buying one at the store front. you'll prolly end up paying the same amount as you would online because of shipping. optimas are really heavy.

DJ Hellfire
05-07-2007, 08:54 AM
Normally I'd say yellow, but since you already have a yellow in the trunk, you should go with a red under the hood. This is the way Optima and most audio shops would recommend. Your under the hood battery only needs to power the starter and keep the memory of the clock, radio and ecu. When your car is on, your alternator is being used. When your system is on, obviously, your trunk yellow is being used. So you don't need a yellow under the hood. If you ever need more juice, then you just add a second yellow in the trunk. Also, do not buy it online. People always buy them online and pay more than they would at an audio shop or the same as a Pepboys, Autozone, or Sears would charge. I got mine from an audio shop for $150. I think it's the 34/78 one or something like that. Fits nicely with the stock hold down. All I had to do was replace the main ground cable because of the f'ed up angle on the stock cable.

furcioelbravead
05-08-2007, 03:34 PM
thanks for your opinion, i will go for the red optima then, i currently have a duralast yellow top that is rated at about 1000 amperes, 850 cold amperes. it is fairly new, made in june 06 so i'm not sure if i want to replace that.

now the problem is the big three, i already upgraded the alternator wire to the battery to rockford fosgate 4 gauge, but i want to do the battery to chassis and chassis to engine block. i tried replacing it using the same bolt by the shifter but it gave me such a hard time so i was wondering if i could use any other bolt in the engine block. any thoughts will help. i think i'm gonna end up using another engine block bolt to the battery and the chassis and another one from the battery to the chassis. does that make sense? i will post pictures of the system very, very soon.

Munky
05-08-2007, 03:38 PM
Normally I'd say yellow, but since you already have a yellow in the trunk, you should go with a red under the hood. This is the way Optima and most audio shops would recommend. Your under the hood battery only needs to power the starter and keep the memory of the clock, radio and ecu. When your car is on, your alternator is being used. When your system is on, obviously, your trunk yellow is being used. So you don't need a yellow under the hood. If you ever need more juice, then you just add a second yellow in the trunk. Also, do not buy it online. People always buy them online and pay more than they would at an audio shop or the same as a Pepboys, Autozone, or Sears would charge. I got mine from an audio shop for $150. I think it's the 34/78 one or something like that. Fits nicely with the stock hold down. All I had to do was replace the main ground cable because of the f'ed up angle on the stock cable.

I'm not that familiar with electrical work, but wouldn't you have to run wiring form the alternator to the yellow in the trunk so it doesn't just die?

furcioelbravead
05-08-2007, 03:44 PM
form the battery in the front i am running 0 gauge wire to a 150 amp circuit breaker, from the circuit breaker the wire then goes to a battery relay/isolator which charges the battery when the switch is on then turns off when the key is off so it doesnt take up the power from the front battery (that's how it keeps itself charged). from that relay/isolator the wire then goes to the battery in the back. is that kind of clear?

Normally I'd say yellow, but since you already have a yellow in the trunk, you should go with a red under the hood. This is the way Optima and most audio shops would recommend. Your under the hood battery only needs to power the starter and keep the memory of the clock, radio and ecu. When your car is on, your alternator is being used. When your system is on, obviously, your trunk yellow is being used. So you don't need a yellow under the hood. If you ever need more juice, then you just add a second yellow in the trunk. Also, do not buy it online. People always buy them online and pay more than they would at an audio shop or the same as a Pepboys, Autozone, or Sears would charge. I got mine from an audio shop for $150. I think it's the 34/78 one or something like that. Fits nicely with the stock hold down. All I had to do was replace the main ground cable because of the f'ed up angle on the stock cable.

when you have two batteries aren't they both being used up? that's why i was thinking about getting a yellow optima in the front to strenghten it a little more.

DJ Hellfire
05-18-2007, 12:08 PM
I'm not that familiar with electrical work, but wouldn't you have to run wiring form the alternator to the yellow in the trunk so it doesn't just die?

No, the proper way to do it would be to install a battery isolater. Technically, just connecting the positive of the trunk battery to the positive on the starting battery is connecting it to the alternator, because the starting battery is already connected to the alternator. So you can add a second battery in the trunk without an isolator, as long as you fuse it the same way you would fuse an amp. However, adding a battery isolator will ensure that your amp only draws from your trunk battery and not your starting battery. This way, if you bang out for a long time with the engine off, and your trunk battery dies, your starting battery still has full power, so you wont need a tow or a jump. Just wiring two batteries together in parallel without an isolator will allow your amp to suck from both batteries. The only time this may cause a problem is when you are bumping with the engine off for an extended period.

Ugzz
05-18-2007, 12:24 PM
yellow for 150 in store is NICE!
they are 180-220 locally around me. i was geeked to see it for less then 165 shipped online..

DJ Hellfire
05-19-2007, 11:33 AM
yellow for 150 in store is NICE!
they are 180-220 locally around me. i was geeked to see it for less then 165 shipped online..

Maybe they went up. I've had it for about 3 years now.

2loud2k2xd
05-19-2007, 11:48 AM
if your running a 2300hct like i have, you are going to need a seperate battery JUST for that amp. a single battery for the car and the system will not suffice.

i use/used a class 34d 1125ca optima yellow top JUST for my 2300hct and my 6401t component amp. i have my optima yellow top for sale--if your close to the detroit/canada border.

DJ Hellfire
05-20-2007, 12:53 AM
if your running a 2300hct like i have, you are going to need a seperate battery JUST for that amp. a single battery for the car and the system will not suffice.

i use/used a class 34d 1125ca optima yellow top JUST for my 2300hct and my 6401t component amp. i have my optima yellow top for sale--if your close to the detroit/canada border.

The amp is rediculous! Did you ever get your system mic'ed?

2loud2k2xd
05-20-2007, 02:18 AM
^^^
yup, my best was a 147.4 on a t/l.

but im glad to have my trunk again. :D

|2oo
05-20-2007, 10:31 AM
^^^
yup, my best was a 147.4 on a t/l.

but im glad to have my trunk again. :D
soft here is my latest score for db drags legal with tl
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/TeAmShonKyRoo/Photo0019.jpg

as i said before go a yellow top for the front and back, red tops are crap because they are not dry cell so if it ever goes flat you need to buy a new battery. also you want to join the batteries so it like one big battery and its always best to run 2 of the same batteries together. if you have a weaker battery under the hood the yellow top in the back will only go as good as the weaker battery. also you want to have at least 2runs of 0gauge for + and 2runs of 0gauge runs of - to get the best out of both bats.

Roo

DJ Hellfire
05-20-2007, 03:44 PM
soft here is my latest score for db drags legal with tl
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/TeAmShonKyRoo/Photo0019.jpg

as i said before go a yellow top for the front and back, red tops are crap because they are not dry cell so if it ever goes flat you need to buy a new battery. also you want to join the batteries so it like one big battery and its always best to run 2 of the same batteries together. if you have a weaker battery under the hood the yellow top in the back will only go as good as the weaker battery. also you want to have at least 2runs of 0gauge for + and 2runs of 0gauge runs of - to get the best out of both bats.

Roo

But can't you get a Red Top with the same CA/CCA rating as the trunk Yellow Top? You just can't discharge it. An isolator would prevent that. I guess I just always thought the point of trunk batteries was so that the system only uses the trunk batteries and not the under hood battery.

And what were you running to hit the 150? Sweet!

|2oo
05-20-2007, 07:49 PM
But can't you get a Red Top with the same CA/CCA rating as the trunk Yellow Top? You just can't discharge it. An isolator would prevent that. I guess I just always thought the point of trunk batteries was so that the system only uses the trunk batteries and not the under hood battery.

And what were you running to hit the 150? Sweet!
well if you only wanted the rear battery to run the system you need a second alt to charge it. its better to just get a pair of the same bats and make them linked so its like one big battery, as for the 150 its was with a pair of DD9515 with 2 1500rms amps

2loud2k2xd
05-20-2007, 08:23 PM
well if you only wanted the rear battery to run the system you need a second alt to charge it. its better to just get a pair of the same bats and make them linked so its like one big battery, as for the 150 its was with a pair of DD9515 with 2 1500rms amps

no you dont need a 2nd alt. i have the same factory alt under my hood and NO problems EVER!!!!!!!!! i use a relay/isolator and a circuit breaker for added protection. my setup was red top under the hood, 0ga to a 150 amp circuit breaker, 0ga to a 200 amp relay/isolator, 0ga to the a optima yellow in the trunk. 0 ga ground to the rear axle thing, 0ga to a dist block. 0ga to my 3farad cap/4ga to my 6401t component amp. 4ga from cap to 2300hct sub amp. 90000+ miles and still going strong. :D

DJ Hellfire
05-20-2007, 08:29 PM
no you dont need a 2nd alt. i have the same factory alt under my hood and NO problems EVER!!!!!!!!! i use a relay/isolator and a circuit breaker for added protection. my setup was red top under the hood, 0ga to a 150 amp circuit breaker, 0ga to a 200 amp relay/isolator, 0ga to the a optima yellow in the trunk. 0 ga ground to the rear axle thing, 0ga to a dist block. 0ga to my 3farad cap/4ga to my 6401t component amp. 4ga from cap to 2300hct sub amp. 90000+ miles and still going strong. :D


Exactly! The isolator allows the amp to only draw from the trunk battery while the trunk battery is still able to be charged by the one alternator.

|2oo
05-20-2007, 09:00 PM
ok i just linked mine with 0 gauge no fuses circuit breaks or nothing, but when your pull 500amps 1 battery will not hold it.

DJ Hellfire
05-20-2007, 11:19 PM
ok i just linked mine with 0 gauge no fuses circuit breaks or nothing, but when your pull 500amps 1 battery will not hold it.

Well that's when you just add another yellow top in the trunk and just have two in trunk. But I guess if you don't have the room like in an Elantra, what you said will have to do. And yeah, the DD's are sweet!

|2oo
05-21-2007, 12:14 AM
Well that's when you just add another yellow top in the trunk and just have two in trunk. But I guess if you don't have the room like in an Elantra, what you said will have to do. And yeah, the DD's are sweet!

I run only one battery daily and add a second one for comps (limited on bats) i have heaps of room in my car for a whole bank of bats but i cant because then i be in a higher class. the standard yellow tops arent that great so he should get a group 31 yellow top for the back and move the d34 to the front

|2oo
05-27-2007, 07:30 AM
here is how you hook up a 2nd battery :D
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/TeAmShonKyRoo/CAP86DLV.jpg

DJ Hellfire
05-27-2007, 10:29 AM
Holy ****! That is the probably the biggest amp I ever saw. Fits perfectly.

|2oo
05-27-2007, 09:44 PM
Holy ****! That is the probably the biggest amp I ever saw. Fits perfectly.
lol its 4 amps putting out around 15000rms altogether :)

DJ Hellfire
05-27-2007, 10:56 PM
lol its 4 amps putting out around 15000rms altogether :)

Oh, OK. I see now. You have them racked! The wooden board you have on top makes it look like one big *** amp at first glance.

2loud2k2xd
05-28-2007, 04:45 PM
here is how you hook up a 2nd battery :D
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/TeAmShonKyRoo/CAP86DLV.jpg



dude, holy ****, make sure you have a couple fire extinguishers handy. that mess looks hazardous man.

cclngthr
05-28-2007, 05:08 PM
That looks dangerous as hell. It is not what I would want in my car. Too risky.

DJ Hellfire
05-28-2007, 06:40 PM
That looks dangerous as hell.

Yeah, it kinda does. I would rather used distribution blocks. But I think he said he only runs this for comps.

jimbo3n21
06-22-2007, 12:12 PM
hey guys, is there a DIY for installing the yellow top battery?

Ugzz
06-22-2007, 04:29 PM
Mine just fit in. I had to kind of shimmy the factory wiring around a little, but it more or less just fit n/p (06 sedan)

2loud2k2xd
06-22-2007, 05:35 PM
hey guys, is there a DIY for installing the yellow top battery?

if your talking about a dual battery set-up...then yes. i made one. if your referring to a DIY for it to fit under the hood, then you bought the wrong size battery.

|2oo
06-22-2007, 08:51 PM
That looks dangerous as hell.
its not dangerous, just wires going everywhere. i covered the + up and its all safe. the things connected to the battery that the o gauge runs off it pure copper so its lets the current though with pretty no resistance.

Yeah, it kinda does. I would rather used distribution blocks. But I think he said he only runs this for comps.
yea i only run it for comps, as for the distribution i would never find one that have enough input and outputs plus they would have a big resistance which = loss of voltage and that = lose in score.

dude, holy ****, make sure you have a couple fire extinguishers handy. that mess looks hazardous man.

nope dont have a fire extingusiher in my car, the mess is the rcas make 4 outputs out of 1 input you need alot of splitters.

lol i drove around with this setup for 2 weeks without a problem, but when you put the sub wires in it gets abit more messy :)
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/TeAmShonKyRoo/Photo0001-1.jpg

but you got to remember this is whats there
8 x 1meter runs of 0 guage
4 x remote wire
5 x rca splitters
8 x 1 meter runs of 8gauge for sub wiring
2 x copper buzz bars
1 x big battery

Ugzz
06-25-2007, 02:20 PM
i just keep thinkin.. theres gotta be a better way

also i LOVE the jumper cable ;)

|2oo
06-26-2007, 11:28 AM
i just keep thinkin.. theres gotta be a better way

also i LOVE the jumper cable ;)
battery charger mate