I got the 2 items installed a couple of nights ago. The day I received the items I contacted XS Engineering in Huntington Beach to see if I could set up a time for some dyno testing on their Dynojet, but the guy didn't respond to me until yesterday and I had already installed this by then. I really wish I could have dyno'd the products, especially since my engine is still stock and I have yet to dyno it for the baseline.

If the guy can give me a good deal I still might consider doing the dyno, the only problem is I'm not very mechanical and it took me a few hours to install it myself the first time. I'm sure I can install it much faster now, but time would be VERY limiting plus it would be hard to install when your engine is hot. They also don't like you working on your car while the car is on the dyno. The guy was going to quote me a price on a baseline dyno, install of wires, dyno, install of voltage system, and another dyno. I don't want to have to pay for them to install it after I've already installed it myself (I would have to disconnect all the wires to do the baseline.)

As far as performance goes, I can definitely feel a difference in the way the engine responds. The revs are much smoother and the lag is gone. Because it's revving better, I think it's also improved my shifting. That seems to be much smoother also. Horsepower wise, I'm sure it's making no where close to 10 HP... a few hp at the most, but it's hard to tell unless you actually dyno it.

As far as gas mileage is concerned, because your battery is disconnected while installing this, the ECU is also reset so I can't really tell whether or not the gas mileage has gone up or down (usually better readings right after reset) until after a few tanks of gas probably. I will be taking a trip on Wednesday from Long Beach (Socal) to the Central coast of California so that 5 hour trip each way might give me a good idea whether or not my gas mileage went up.

I know you guys have already seen ground wires, but do you still want to see pics of it installed? If so I can take a few snap shots tomorrow. My engine bay is nowhere near as clean as most of yall though =)

http://www.vathana.com/DSC00310a.jpg
http://www.vathana.com/DSC00320.JPG
http://www.vathana.com/DSC00321.JPG

Sorry the pics aren't the best, but you get the idea. The ground wires came with 5 wires precut. The device is held on by double sided tape and it's currently just sticking on top of my fuse box. If you install it there make sure you put it all the way to the left of the fuse box otherwise it'll be in the way when you close your hood.

PICS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:worthless

For testing purposes, you don't need to disconnect or remove the entire system. Just disconnect both of them from the negative battery terminal. This doesn't fully revert the grounds to stock unless you separate the individual wires, but the ground leads are not what people are interested in, since any grounds will do the same thing.

If you can't do the dyno, consider doing a double blind test as I described in the "CPU module" thread. It's easy, you can take your time doing it and it doesn't cost anything. It will at least tell you if your "butt dyno" is accurate, until you can put the car on a real dyno.

since any grounds will do the same thing.

I am still not convinced of that.

I am not trying to start a debate on this since it has been debated to death and no proof has been shown but the point of adding ground kits is getting better grounds and better wires produce less resistance and therfore give better grounds. So it is reasonable to believe that since sun auto does use a beter wire then other kits, it is possible the gains will be better.

That install looks great... but please answer this question..


http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/strange_tie_wraps.jpg


And most importantly, when will you be getting rid of those tie wraps ???????????????????

thats custom, ford. =P I must admit, ive never seen tie wraps in series like that, pretty creative. he already said he wasnt the best at mechanical stuff

That is awsome I have wired in series but never like that in such style and with non electrical parts :-P Kudoas for the um ingenious idea (though if you were a true racer I mean ricer, you would realise you have added far too much weight to the vehical with those tie'ms)

That install looks great... but please answer this question..


http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/strange_tie_wraps.jpg


And most importantly, when will you be getting rid of those tie wraps ???????????????????


Hahahaha... sorry fellas, I had a few extra tie wraps left so I figured what the hell.

As for the ground wires, I tried to follow the instruction from Sun as best as possible. They recommended putting linking it all together like a daisy chain so I have the wires going from the chassis to the intake manifold (where the stock ground wires connect). From there it goes to a bolt on the engine close to where the coils are (I didn't know you guys were connecting to the ignition coil), and from there it goes to a bolt on the tranny, from the tranny it goes to the battery negative along with another wire that's coming from the other side of the chassis.

I am still not convinced of that.

I am not trying to start a debate on this since it has been debated to death and no proof has been shown but the point of adding ground kits is getting better grounds and better wires produce less resistance and therfore give better grounds. So it is reasonable to believe that since sun auto does use a beter wire then other kits, it is possible the gains will be better.
You apparently don't understand grounding.

- To get a good ground, all you need is a good electrical connection with a wire of large enough size to handle the current load. The current load in a car is not very large.

- Stock grounds are more than large enough, though in some cases, they may not make especially good connections. Adding grounds is more a form of insurance against a bad stock connection than anything else.

- Crimped connections corrode over time and increase resistance in the connection. Soldering the connections eliminates this problem. Using "high quality" wire with crimped connections is a joke, as they will simply corrode like the stock grounds do. Adding grounds prolongs the time before this becomes a problem, but it doesn't eliminate it. Over time, a $10 set of home made ground wires with soldered connections will outperform ANY wires with crimped connections.

- In some cases, installing extra ground leads to various points on the engine and transmission can help to eliminate varibles in ground potential, but there's no guaranty that doing so will have any effect on performance. It will vary from one vehicle to the next.

- Using fine stranded or "oxygen free copper" wires is not necessary for ground leads. While they are better for transmitting audio signals, they offer no electrical benefits for ground leads. Fine stranded wires are more flexible, which could be beneficial in some grounding applications, but fine stranded wire from the hardware store will be every bit as effective as buying "boutique" wires and moreso if you solder the connectors on.

Those are the facts. Hopefully, you're convinced. If not, feel free to line the pockets of hucksters selling their "snake oil" products.

I've noticed that the website that I've purchased from added some testimonials along with some dyno charts.

http://www.sigmaautomotive.com/HVS/hvs.php
http://www.sigmaautomotive.com/EGS/egs.php

Unfortunately the recent trip I took up the coast didn't yield the results I had hoped for. Although it's about a 600 mile round trip, I can't compare the info because this time I had extra weight in the car (1 extra person), the A/C was always on (last time I went was during the winter), and my tire size has changed since the last time. With my tires being bigger than stock, my fuel economy reading is not correct.