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mnstrmech
03-28-2008, 02:13 PM
iwas wondering through walmart yesterday getting some wiper blades and seen they carry mobil 1 0w30 full synthentic! after reading the label, going home and researching their web site, ive found out its compatable with 5w-30 and even 10w-30 applications, but increases fuel mileage. im kinda stoked to see this!i would like to get some better mileage! i currently run 5w-30 mobil 1 full synthentic. im wondering if anyone is running this viscosity of oil, searched the forum for 0w-30, and i seen no mention of anyone using it?

BobMs_wht2k2
03-28-2008, 02:19 PM
You MIGHT see a .1-.2mpg difference in economy over your 5-30 M1. If 0W-30 is listed in your owners manual as being an acceptrable weight for your climate, then it would be fine.

I'm using 10W30 M1 in the Elantra to keep the engine a little quieter. Top end ticks and taps a little more with the 5-30.

Robert1955
03-28-2008, 02:27 PM
You can run a 0W-30 but you will not really see any improvment in MPG. as it is still a 30 weight oil at normal operating temps. It is a 0W weight at start up and will flow quicker and will start protecting your motor a little quicker. The biggest plus with a 0W oil is during the cold winter months where it will flow almost the same at start up as it does during the summer months. You are allready using a 5W-30 Mobil 1 oil so over all you really will not see much a difference.

Cypher
03-28-2008, 02:29 PM
Hmmmm Bob now you have me thinking about using some 10w30

BobMs_wht2k2
03-28-2008, 02:33 PM
It helps a little. Not tons, but it's good oil and at 88k miles, I wan to give it all the help to make 150k untouched that I can. THe Accent is close, real close. 146k on the original drivetrain, including axles!

Munky
03-28-2008, 02:50 PM
I'm at 127K miles..I use 10w30...5w30 in winter.

2001VE
03-28-2008, 03:10 PM
Motor oils tend thin out as they get contaminated and you lose protection from the oil layer between parts. I would only use it on a newer car during winter. I use 5W50 in summer 10W30 in winter; high milage on motor.

Cypher
03-28-2008, 03:56 PM
^Don't you have 200km which ~ 128k????

Munky, do you use synthetic or just regular oil? One day soon I'm going to take the valve cover off and take a look to see how the head is fairing as far as gunk/buildup to see if there is any at my mileage.

Munky
03-28-2008, 03:57 PM
I use synthetic. I figured every little bit would help.

BobMs_wht2k2
03-28-2008, 03:58 PM
^Don't you have 200km which ~ 128k????

Munky, do you use synthetic or just regular oil? One day soon I'm going to take the valve cover off and take a look to see how the head is fairing as far as gunk/buildup to see if there is any at my mileage.

Look at the oil cap. If you have buildup, that'll be clear.

Cypher
03-28-2008, 04:00 PM
the cap will be clear if in fact I do have buildup??? hows that work? Shouldn't it have buildup on it if I have buildup?

Munky
03-28-2008, 04:01 PM
the cap will be clear if in fact I do have buildup??? hows that work? Shouldn't it have buildup on it if I have buildup?

No, he means it will be pretty obvious to tell if you have buildup.

Cypher
03-28-2008, 04:04 PM
Ah ok, the wording that he used made me go "huh?" lol

BobMs_wht2k2
03-28-2008, 04:09 PM
Correct. Run your finger inside where the cap screws in. If you get a ton of junk, then you are a terrible owner and should relinquish your vehicle to someone more deserving.

The 'Zuki's were picky about oil changes, especiallythe 2.5/2.7L V6's. Most engine problems we had were people trying to run (pure coincidence here, honest) 7500 mile OCI. The timing chain setup on those did not like that one bit, it was even worse if it was all city miles. So a quick check was to run your finger inside the valve cover around the oil cap hole. 99% of them were caked in sludge and when you pulled their file you saw an oil change here, or there, but no schedule. about 50k miles on 7-8k intervals and the chains would let go.

Now I know the J25/J27's are completely different beasts with different needs than the beta's, but the basica principles apply.

jalmir
03-28-2008, 04:25 PM
Since this is an oil weight thread I was asking myself what kind of oil I should use after my engine rebuild ... should I go directly to synthetic or stay with dino oil, right now I use dino 5w30 all year long.

When I'll slap the turbo I'll probably go with synthetic oil, 10w40 or 5w50. But should I run that oil after the break-in while I'm still N/A ???

For the break-in oil I thought using dino 5w30 and doing 3 close oil change of 500km each.

Cypher
03-28-2008, 04:27 PM
Use regular oil for breakin and then switch to synthetic.

waif69
03-28-2008, 04:40 PM
Use regular oil for break in and then switch to synthetic.

That is what I did when I got the car. I ran the original dino oil that the car came with and at 500 miles I replaced it with Mobil 1 and replaced the filter of course. :D

jalmir
03-28-2008, 04:44 PM
ok cool, that's what I thought of doing! :D

BobMs_wht2k2
03-28-2008, 04:54 PM
Dino, 1500 miles. Shange oil filter. Run 3k. then you should be good to switch over to synthetic.

cbogg
03-28-2008, 11:07 PM
Dino, 1500 miles. Change oil filter. Run 3k. then you should be good to switch over to synthetic.

That's what I did. Mine's been running some sort of full syn (first mobil 1, then royal purple) since about 4k. It's now past 42k, and I don't have a spot of goo around the oil cap, or even the slightest bit of varnish anywhere on the dipstick.

Poopsicle
03-31-2008, 09:01 PM
Isn't it 5w20? You can use Mobil 1 0w20 in lieu of 5w20. Mobil 1 said that it was wayyyy better than 5w20.. I don't know LOL.