Help! - Stuck on Clutch Install

[reb162]

I'm trying to remove the clutch fork from the tranny as I have read in all the posts here and I got the salve cyclinder off and out of the way, and I took the nut and wahers off the top of the clutch fork, but that sone of a ***** will not pop off. It will wiggle a little side to side (i.e. normal rotation) but I can not get it to slide up and off. What am I missing here (besides corrosion)? Do I need to have the housing loose a little bit before that will come off? I've hit with PB Blaster and heat about twenty times with no luck.

[KeWLKaT]

Stupid question, but do you have the 3 transmission motor mounts off already?

Also, when you pull on the transmission, you need to make sure to lift up the nose of it a bit, makes it easier.

[Fox]

mine did the exact same thing, i had to completely remove the engine, and slowly put pressure with a pry bar.

[KeWLKaT]

?? But why?? I never had that problem, I have done and/or assisted closely to more than 6-7 clutch jobs on elantras...

[reb162]

I got it off this afternoon...I guess the PB blaster finally soaked in enough that I could wiggle it slowly up and off the shaft. It was really corroded so I guess I'll hit the whole fork with my sandblaster and then paint. Every damn bolt that goes back in is getting anti-seize....half of em gave me the fight of my life...thank god for the impact wrench. Only casualty was snapping one of the bottom trans bolts off. Once I got the housing off and seperated, I drilled the remainder out and retapped it so no big deal. I hate the north and damn road salt. It makes working on these cars so much harder. I got the new clutch disk and pressurre plate on tonight..I'll finish up tomorrow. I'll take a photo of the disk because I'm curious if anyone else thinks its worn. It didn't look like it to me but the car had 135k miles and it was engaging pretty close to the top of the pedal play.

Oh yeah...I also damaged one of the axle seals getting the shaft out..but I was prepared and have new ones on hand. Two questions. Should I replace both even if they are not damaged? Also, how do you replace them....I know I can get the old ones out but I'm not sure about putting in the new ones.

Thanks

Also, one other thing. Any tips on reinstalling the axles into the tranny? I think I heard that they need to be slid back in with the c clips facing down? How do I know when they have go ne in far enough?

Thanks

[KeWLKaT]

Yes, replace both at the same time, just in case.

Also, to put em back on, there is a ''snap spring'' if you will on their insides, so the best way to do it is to take a circular thing such as a huge socket, and go at it with a hammer to put even pressure all around and ensure a good seal when you tap it in.

[only1db]

i'm lucky i get to use the special tool...you can never screw it up.

[2001VE]

Try to get as large a socket as you can that almost matches the outside diameter of the lip seal.
Us a hammer to tap around the perimeter of the socket so the seal is knocked in evenly. Put a bit of grease around the lip seal metal flange before you knock it in; also have some on the inner rubber surface before slidding in the axles.
The axle shaft just pops back in place , you don't need to be concerned with how far it goes in. I don't hink it matters if the c-clip is pointed up or down. Just make sure you have one in the groove at the end of the axle shaft. There seems to be different opinions about the orientation of the c-clip.

[KeWLKaT]

I don't know, I was always told to make sure that the C-clip's open end be towards the top. I just do it because I feel bad not doing it, lol.

[reb162]

The deed is done....and the turd still moves so I must have done something right. The clutch feels like new and grabs right away with no slippage....night and day from the old clutch with 135K miles. Granted I only drove for a few miles, but no weird sounds or crap falling off so its a success for me...mostly.

I did find one little plastic piece on the garage floor after I moved the car which I do not know what it is. I would like to put it back but since the car seems to be working, I'm not too worried. Pics are below. For reference, its about 1 inch long, concave on one side and has a hole in the other side, I assume to go on some post or something. I'm guessing a piece of shifter linkage?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0811.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0812.jpg

Also, I took pics of the old pressure plate and clutch...they do not look to worn to me but the feel of the new clutch says otherwise. Should get me past 200K miles and into the retirement junkyard.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0813.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0814.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0817.jpg

[KeWLKaT]

usually the metal surfaces just get glazed before the actual material gets down too low...

and that plastic piece does not ring a bell at all.

[HYTECH]

That unknown part is part of the shift linkage if you remove the shift cable holder (2 12mm bolts) this part is easy to put into place it fits on a dowel and rides in a grove cut into the shift shaft.

[WytchDctr]

The socket that got the castle nut off the axle worked really well for knocking in the axle seal IMO (putting this here for searching purposes). I think that was a 32mm??

[2001VE]

The springs start to get weak and combined with the glazing makes a new clutch necessary. Not worth beating on the tranny to try and get a few more miles out of a worn clutch; better to change it when the car is still moving. IMO. Seal driver set is better for installing seals , but good mechanics sometimes have to improvise.

[HYTECH]

The deed is done....and the turd still moves so I must have done something right. The clutch feels like new and grabs right away with no slippage....night and day from the old clutch with 135K miles. Granted I only drove for a few miles, but no weird sounds or crap falling off so its a success for me...mostly.

I did find one little plastic piece on the garage floor after I moved the car which I do not know what it is. I would like to put it back but since the car seems to be working, I'm not too worried. Pics are below. For reference, its about 1 inch long, concave on one side and has a hole in the other side, I assume to go on some post or something. I'm guessing a piece of shifter linkage?

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0811.jpg
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/reb162/DSCN0812.jpg



here's a pic of where it goes

[KeWLKaT]

Wow how did that fall off? You shouldn't undo that part...?

[HYTECH]

Wow how did that fall off? You shouldn't undo that part...?

It's easier to remove the two 12mm bolts than it is to remove the cables only. also that whole bracket thing is out of the way and it makes it easier to remove the clutch w/o removing the subframe.

[KeWLKaT]

Interesting! I should try that next time, i hate dropping the subframe, those bolts are always full of rust.

[HYTECH]

you do need to pull 2 subframe bolts on the drivers side.

[KeWLKaT]

I usually pulled the front one in the corner like pictured, and also the other one in the back with the triangular plate with the 2 other bolts (removed plate). Also loosened the front one.

This gave me like 6 inches of clearance with the tranny to work with. You look like you have at least a foot if not more!!!

[HYTECH]

I usually pulled the front one in the corner like pictured, and also the other one in the back with the triangular plate with the 2 other bolts (removed plate). Also loosened the front one.

This gave me like 6 inches of clearance with the tranny to work with. You look like you have at least a foot if not more!!!

mark and pull the steering shaft from the rack. or remove the 4 rack bolts

[Keyan]

mark and pull the steering shaft from the rack. or remove the 4 rack bolts

when i did that i spent a good 3 hours getting the shaft back into the rack, and then i cross threaded 3 of the 4 rack mounting bolts into the subframe.

yeah no thanks.

[BColeman]

A couple of you guys know me fairly well, and know that I am mechanically inclined.

However, I've never done a clutch/pressure plate install. Felix and James, you both have done them. So I have a few questions, since mine is ready to be replaced and I don't want to pay someone $400 or more to put one in.

Do I have to use a lift, or are jackstands enough? The whole car, or just the front when using the jack stands?

As seen in the pics on the first page, the transmission does not have to come out right?

Flywheel, I assume the best thing to do is buy a replacement, light weight one. But if I chose not to, do I "HAVE" to resurface it, or can I get away with just putting in the new clutch, etc.?

Tranny fluid, do I have to drain it? I assume the 2.7qts of fluid in the tranny add a little bit of weight to it, so draining it might lighten the weight. Just curious if it's absolutely necessary.

Lastly, Felix and James, expect to receive PMs in a few weeks when I inevitably put in the new clutch/flywheel.

[Cypher]

you don't have to drain the trans fluid. I recommend it though. ALWAYS resurface the flywheel or replace it. Not doing so could risk premature failure of ur new clutch! You can get away with Jackstands just on the front.

[Keyan]

you DO have to drain the trans fluid because when you unhook the axles the fluid pours out.

you don't need access to a lift but it makes the job 1 million times less stressful

[Cypher]

You don't have to. Not all the fluid drains out when you pull the axles, just stick rags in the axle "holes" to soak up what comes out.

[2001VE]

I would dump the oil into a bucket and re-use later if you think its still reasonably fresh.
Clean off the fur from the magnetic drain plug.

If you can hook your finger nail on anything on the flywheel it needs to be resurfaced or replaced with some thing better. Blue hot spots would indicate the same thing.

I have replaced close to ten clutches on various cars and trucks; and two Hyundais.
I have reused fly wheels successfully several times. If you can aford a new flywheel it will feel better and last longer.

[KeWLKaT]

Yes, drain the oil or it will come out when the axles are getting pulled. I have done all my clutch jobs on jack stands, just put them on the frame around the middle section of the car so you can lower the subframe a bit, like we described.

Resurfacing is optional but recommended, because most of the time you have glaze from the material on the clutch on the friction surface (usually it's not the material but the mating surfaces that ''give out'' and cause slippage on these cars it seems).

I recommend the fidanza flywheel as it has a removable friction plate and it will cost you 50$ each time and be as good as a brand new one.

Lastly, I have a couple of extra flywheels here, you can have one for shipping if you want to cut on the downtime so you can get it resurfaced in advance. But in exchange you need to promise me that you'll get me your steering wheel shipped out soon, I still want it :D

I recommend new axle seals too for both sides.