Unichip help

[maral01]

I know I'll probably get flamed for using the Unichip but here is my problem:

I did all my connections according to this diagram:

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh53/maral01/turbo%20project/UnichipMAF.jpg

Now, when I went to start the car once done connecting everything, the car wouldn't start. I then disconnected the connection to the Crankshaft Position sensor and the car started at the first turn of the key (althought I have a CEL, but, I am not worried about that for now). Is it something that's wrong in the diagram?

Anyone with experience, please advise. I will also post on NT because there are more boosted guys on there that might have different options.

Thanks!

[kylemorg]

On the XD, the crankshaft position sensor wire you hook up to isn't the color they list. I believe it would be the same situation for the XD2. Pry the cover of the crankshaft position plug off and make sure you spliced to the middle wire (which I believe is either white or green, but definitely not pink.) Then everything should work OK. The wiring code colors on the Unichip harness are right, but the one for the CKPS is wrong.

I had EXACTLY the same problem.

Double check your MAP sensor hookup wire, too. I think that could be causing your CEL

[maral01]

I got the XD2 and I can assure you that I spliced the middle wire, because I took the whole cover off. As for the CEL, it could be from when I retried to connect the CKP sensor as per the diagram and wouldn't work again... I didn't reset the ECU afterwards....

[slow 2K2GT]

I used that exact diagram when I installed mine and there have been no issues at all. I believe the car will still start with a bad CKP but will cause some bad misfires, nothing that will kill the motor but it sputters and bucks while driving (I had this happen to me with a loose connector on my CKP).

[maral01]

I had no misfires at all, it's just that the car wouldn't start. I don't think the problem is with the sensor. I checked with the key on the ''on'' position and the Unichip is getting power... maybe it's not getting any when cranking and that's what was causing my issues (no power to the Unichip would mean that the signal isn't sent to the ECU)? Anyway, it is too late for now and I will check this tomorrow.... I got a feeling that's what the problem is.

[slow 2K2GT]

that could very well be it, hope so. good luck!

[maral01]

Update: Went and checked if the Unichip gets juice when cranking: it does... However, it is only getting 10.89V while dmdicks informed me that it should get 11V to function at startup. Do you think .11V does that much of a big difference?

As for my CEL, it is clear now but I'm still no closer at finding out what the problem is. I checked the continuity of all my wires, all appears in order. Could it be the Unichip itself? :confused:

[Qyn]

.11V should be within the acceptable range, but I could be wrong... chip may need closer to exact power to function.

[slow 2K2GT]

I would think that it may be like a light switch, on or off, so if there isnt correct power then it wouldnt work.

[larryinkc]

I have an Alpine kit on my Tib. Two Unichips had timing control failures on my car during the first year I had it and the ignition went dead when this happened. The third Unichip worked OK for a year or so untill I replaced it with an AEM FIC.

[maral01]

Well, I guess I will have to try and find a SMT-6 instead.... Hopefully, by early next week if I want to get everything installed....

[KeWLKaT]

atelierhp.com

[maral01]

atelierhp.com

Yes, already contacted Denis

[NY2002ElantraGT]

i have a turbo box im selling

[KeWLKaT]

^^ Probably not worth the shipping and border fees, the turbo box is only 75$...

[maral01]

Well, just went out and tried the Unichip straight on the battery... the car won't even start, which means it's dead in the water. Unsoldered all my connections and going to get a SMT-6 (tomorrow hopefully) so that I can get my %?&% project on the run again.... Now, all I need to learn is the actual functionning of the SMT-6 itself. Not worried about the wiring, I find that task kind of easy...

P.S. Denis, if you read this, tell your wife I'm EXTREMELY sorry I woke her up.... :bowdown:

[dmdicks]

What is your voltage at the battery while cranking? The Unichip is VERY sensitive to voltage drops. It really needs a good constant 12 volts all the time to work its best. Below 11 volts while cranking will cause erratic RPM readings.

[maral01]

Voltage at the battery with Acc. on was 12.23 Volts. While cranking, it dropped to 11.20 Volts but came back up to 14.04 volts when car was turned on.

[dmdicks]

That should be ok. Like I said on nt.com I can test your Unichip and harness for you. There's also a crank sensor type in the software that might be configured wrong.

[maral01]

That was the unichip that Ismael had, so it should be the same since we both have XD2s with MAF. However, it did spend the winter at my uncle's place and it wasn't heated at all.... that could be the problem.

[dmdicks]

As I recall Ismael had problems as well.

[kylemorg]

"Recall me Ishmael"... I think I read that in a book somewhere.