remote start [Archive] - ElantraXD.com - Elantra Enthusiasts & Community

: remote start



Onelove5683
10-27-2004, 12:26 AM
ok southpaw or anyone else, who has installed remote start on their xd for manual or auto?

if nobody has completed this yet, who is willing to pitch in for one of these cds? or buy it an post everything here for us...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50554&item=5727892562&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

JacksonJ
10-27-2004, 12:34 AM
I would say save your money and check out The 12 Volt (http://www.the12volt.com)

ilanpro
10-27-2004, 12:39 AM
I had it on my 01 GLS is a pain when it comes to the arming of the alarm , but the starter it self is easy

JuMpMaN6235
10-27-2004, 01:13 AM
i have it on my 01 gls, and the guy who was installing it couldnt figure out how to tap into the unlock/lock

so i gotta use the seperate oem keyless entry

Dailey4
10-27-2004, 01:25 AM
I've installed one before on my old car (93 Grand Am). They are not too hard to install.

Onelove5683
10-27-2004, 03:32 AM
I had it on my 01 GLS is a pain when it comes to the arming of the alarm , but the starter it self is easy
i already have the factory alarm. all i need is the start.

southpawboston
10-27-2004, 10:00 AM
just pay me the $9 and i'll give you a BETTER diagram, haha.

seriously, it's not hard, but you do need diagrams to help you. without them, even the most highly trained installer is SOL. thankfully there's hmaservice.com, which provides all this information for free if you know how to decipher it. i have deciphered it, and i made a wiring DIY for installing the remote start that i have on my 5-spd GT. all the wires you need to tap into are diagrammed. any other brand of remote-start add-on module you may buy will likely need all the same wires as mine.

southpaw's remote start DIY (http://homepage.mac.com/tutter/DIY/autocommand/autocommand.htm)

Choking Hazard
10-27-2004, 10:15 AM
BTW
In the state of Colorado. It is illegal to have remote start on a manual transmission. For reasons that for the engine to start the clutch interlock(right?) needs to be disabled. This raises a fre safety concerns. In Colo. its a 10,000(max) fine for having it. I dont know about other states. But here's a headsup.

ilanpro
10-27-2004, 10:17 AM
I would not do it to a manual

southpawboston
10-27-2004, 10:25 AM
my remote start addresses that safety issue in its design. hard to describe, but it doesn't work unless the car was in neutral when the engine was last shut off.

Onelove5683
10-27-2004, 05:06 PM
actually i have a remote start made for manuals only. so im fine. what it does it only engages when u do a series of actions with the brakes, hand brake etc

southpawboston
10-27-2004, 05:12 PM
onelove, which brand/model do you have?

sammy21c
10-27-2004, 06:43 PM
I have it in manual, I didn't install it but what I remember is, they said they had to put my one of the factory key under the dash. But when it's done, they hand me the key back. they said they bypassed it some how. I have Clifford.

Choking Hazard
10-28-2004, 02:55 AM
I have the Viper 791VX. Same as the Clifford (same company). Some cars need a bypass of the microchip in the key, thus a bypass ( a factory key) in a bypass box, wired to the alarm

southpawboston
10-28-2004, 12:54 PM
our cars do not need a bypass since there is no key transponder system. the asian market elantras have this, but not the north american ones.

brad335
10-29-2004, 06:55 PM
My friend owns a store that does auto secuirity etc. He swears by Viper. I have heard of the downsides on installing them to a manual, I live in Pennsylvania, and dont think there is any law on it. However, there is no one around here that will touch a manual with a remote start.

Onelove5683
11-02-2004, 05:49 PM
southpaw its ultra start.

i dont know why u tap into the etacs becuz my instructions just say to go direct into the ignition harness.

southpawboston
11-02-2004, 08:37 PM
there is only one wire that i specify to hook up to the ETACS. that's the wire that taps into the door lock pulse wire. my autostart senses when that wire provides a pulse. if it pulses twice (e.g., remote lock button pressed twice) it causes the car to start. there is no way you can use your factory remote without tapping into this wire.

jcr557
11-02-2004, 09:17 PM
the other they i went to buy some wipper blades at kmart, haha, and i saw a bunch of remote starters for $49.99 it says do it yourself with cd's included, if anyone wants to try this pm and ill get it for ya,

Onelove5683
11-09-2004, 11:32 PM
there is only one wire that i specify to hook up to the ETACS. that's the wire that taps into the door lock pulse wire. my autostart senses when that wire provides a pulse. if it pulses twice (e.g., remote lock button pressed twice) it causes the car to start. there is no way you can use your factory remote without tapping into this wire.
wow using the factory remote is cool, but i actually want to use the remote starters remote since its cool too. so how can i do this?

i wish u lived closer.. maybe i can send the instructions or something and get some more help. :bowdown:

AvanteXD-CDN
11-10-2004, 12:19 AM
Here in Canada, just about 80% of the cars here have remote starters, we need it :D

BlackElantraGT
11-10-2004, 03:34 AM
I used to have a remote starter in my 92 Sentra automatic, but can someone explain how it would work on a manual transmission? Would I have to leave it in neutral everytime I turned my engine off? I'm used to leaving my stick in 1st gear after I shut off my engine, for safety reasons.

evan938
11-10-2004, 03:44 AM
same here...also, how would this work w/ the factory remote? if you press the lock button to start it, how do you lock the car? also, do you have to insert your key and turn it to on to move the car any? ive only seen remote start in one car (in person) and i didnt pay much attention to it

southpawboston
11-10-2004, 07:47 AM
here's how it works for manual tranny cars and here's how it works for using the factory remote. i can only speak for the design-tech autocommand unit since that's what i have.

for manual tranny cars, it requires you to do a sequence of events before it goes into "ready" mode, meaning ready to start your car upon using the remote. first, it requires that before you switch off your car (say, the night before you want to start it on a cold morning), you have to have your foot off the clutch, foot on the brake, and e-brake engaged. then you have to toggle a switch. then you switch the key off and get out of your car. if you mess up that sequence by even ONE STEP, it won't go into "ready" mode. see the logic? how can the car be in gear with your foot off the clutch, engine running, foot on brake, and e-brake engaged? most cars have switches on the clutch pedal (clutch interlock switch), brake pedal (brake light switch), and e-brake (e-brake light switch). all of these switches are inputted into the remote start unit. it records the state of the switches and the order in which they were done.

next, how it works with the factory remote. the unit has a "remote input". this can be programmed to sense one or two pulses (the two pulses would have to be within 5 seconds of each other). i have it set to two. and i have this input hooked up to the door LOCK relay output from the ETACS. why do i have it set to two pulses and not one? because if i go through all those steps above to "ready" the unit, and i get out of my car and lock the door, it will start! but by specifying two pulses, it will not start when i go to lock the car with the remote. but the next morning, when i walk up to the window of my house with remote in hand, i have to press LOCK, then UNLOCK, then LOCK again, and voila... car starts!

there's an added safety feature engineered in to the unit for manual tranny cars. it senses the voltage drop at the battery during starting. when you set up the unit the first time, it remembers what kind of load the starter creates on the battery. if that load were to increase sharply (e.g., if you tried starting your car in gear--notice how much more strain is on the battery?), the start process would abort immediately.

there's other safety features as well. e.g., when you do start the car remotely, you only have 15 minutes to get the key in and turned on before it shuts the car off again. and, once you open the door to the car (the unit is alos hooked up to the dome light!), you have 10 seconds to get the key in and turned on. and if you press the clutch or brake pedals, or release the e-brake before getting the key in and turned on, it switches off the car. so this way it would be extremely hard for someone to break into the car while it's started remotely and drive off. pretty cool, eh?

hope this explains everything. i don't know if any or all these safety features are engineered into other remote start units, but this one seems to be idiot-proof. it also means there are a LOT of wires to be hooked up, but that's never a problem, is it? ;)




wow using the factory remote is cool, but i actually want to use the remote starters remote since its cool too. so how can i do this?

i wish u lived closer.. maybe i can send the instructions or something and get some more help. :bowdown:

if you have an electronic version of the instruction manual, you can email it to me. send me a PM if you want my email addy.

you can use whatever remote came with the unit you bought, you don't HAVE to use the car's remote at all. this should all be specified in the instructions for whatever unit you bought. my unit did not come with a remote because it was specifically designed as an "add-on" unit for cars that already have an alarm and/or keyless.

Stoper
11-22-2004, 02:15 AM
I am currently installing a ProStart remote starter and am having trouble locating 2 of the connections. (With all the resources you guys have provided I have managed to finding the other dozen or so. Thanks :bowdown: ) They are described as:

ARM OUTPUT - Max 500mA ground signal when the doors are locked by remote. This wire will goto ground 1/4 secind befre the LOCK pulse and go off 1/8 second after LOCK. It must be connected to the OEM arm wire (usually the door pin). Note: The system also gives a rearm pulse on this wire after remote-start shutdown.

DISARM OUTPUT - Max 500mA 1 second ground pulse when the doors are unlocked by remote contriol. Connect to the OEM disarm wire of the vehicle. Note: The system also gives a disarm pulse on this wire before remote-start.

I should state that these are seperate from the lock and unlock wires.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, Could someone tell me if the clutch interlock on our cars uses a relay or interupts the 12V starter circuit directly?

BlackElantraGT
11-22-2004, 06:36 AM
Wow thanks for the thorough explaination southpaw. You truly are the audio/visual/auto security expert on here. From what you said, I take it that the car must be left in neutral then in order for the manual starting to work? That would be something I have to get used to since I tend to put mine in 1st gear after I shut off the engine.

I know that installing a new alarm system with a remote starter is beyond my capability, but do you think most stereo/alarm installers would have the capability to install a system like this, especially if they weren't familiar with our car and it's factory installed alarm system? I remembered back when they installed my Clifford G4 alarm system with remote start in the Sentra they took longer than expected to install the system. Would I need to print out some visual aid for them as far as where certain wires should go or is there a way for them to figure that out on their own?

southpawboston
11-22-2004, 07:54 AM
stoper: you're out of luck with those two arm/disarm wires, as they don't exist. the elantra factory alarm does not use these. most aftermarket alarms do. was the prostart designed to be used with OEM alarms? does the prostart give any advice on what to do if those wires are missing? if not, you're going to have to buy two pulse timer relays and hook them up to the hazard light flash relay to fool the prostart into thinking that there are these two wires when you arm/disarm. i'd give a call to tech support and explain them this. also, the clutch interlock does use a relay, there is only a small current going through it which activates the starter relay in the engine bay.

blackelantraGT: most alarm installers SHOULD be able to install an alarm like this. it depends on the experience of the installer of course. try going only to places that have done a lot of them, and ask around. and YES, giving the techs a visual aid is DEFINITELY a good idea, especially if they have never done one on our car. also mention to them about the dilemna above posed by stoper, and print out a copy of my wiring setup for my designtech autocommand 20222 remote-start add on module. also print out the elantra starting system schematics page off of webtech (links are below). those two docs will help them out tremendously even with a different brand of remote starter. it will shave half the time off of their installation and prevent them from cutting into the wrong wires and screwing things up.

webtech starter system schematics page (http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394883766#_394883766%00)

designtech autocommand remote start add-on DIY for elantra with keyless/alarm (http://homepage.mac.com/tutter/DIY/autocommand/autocommand.htm)

good luck.

Stoper
11-24-2004, 06:40 PM
Those two arm wires are outputs from the starter system. The starter system I have has keyless entry on it so I suppose those are to set arm an alarm system when I lock the doors. Regardless, I didn't hook them up to anything and I can lock and unlock my doors fine with the new fob. The one problem I have encountered is with the tach sensor. I have it tied in to A19 on the ETACS and the starter isn't picking it up. If I use a test light to test the line it stays on continously but I figure that is because the bulb is too slow to flash 1000 times a minute.

Is there somewhere else I should hook the tach signal wire too?

southpawboston
11-24-2004, 10:31 PM
hmm..... that's where i hooked my remote starter and it works fine. i don't think it actually senses the real tach signal, i think that wire (A19) is a signal from the alternator that the alternator is working (and therefore the engine is running). it is an off/on type of signal, not a fluctuating signal... that's what i think, anyway. i've been wrong before...

i don't know where else to suggest. does your remote starter need a tach signal? mine is optional, since it senses the voltage increase at the battery as its signal that the car is started if you don't have a tach signal to tap into.

also, it sounds like you've tapped your remote starter/keyless into the door lock system, which is fine, but on the elantra, that alone does not arm the alarm. the ONLY way to arm/disarm the alarm is with the factory remote. i.e., when you lock/unlock with your remote starter remote, you don't get the lights flash.

Stoper
11-25-2004, 02:04 AM
Ya, I think it is an on/off signal and I need a pulse signal, the instructions said to attach it to the negative side of the coil or the negative side of an injector so I guess that is what I will have to do. I have to have it attached because my system uses the tach to determine when to stop cranking the starter.

Hmm, I wonder what system handles the fuel cutoff at red line, that must use a tach signal....

Onelove5683
12-02-2004, 12:26 PM
SPB im trying to scan these intstructions so u can help me...

i really need to get this remote starter in ASAP!

ill pay for successful help!

southpawboston
12-02-2004, 12:29 PM
let me know when you've got them posted.

KeWLKaT
12-02-2004, 05:21 PM
I use a complete remote system, with a separate (new) remote. Problem is that when you lock the doors with that remote, the anti-starter kicks in, and it is impossible to take it off with the stock remote... So if the batteries die, I die too :D

Onelove5683
12-02-2004, 06:49 PM
ok guys here are my instructions....pdf file

SPB...thanks in advance :D
Ultrastart Instructions (http://www.nitrousworld.com/pictures/remotestart.pdf )

southpawboston
12-02-2004, 09:06 PM
is your car auto or manual?

Onelove5683
12-02-2004, 11:06 PM
is your car auto or manual?
manual. the RS was made for manual too.

Gman01
12-03-2004, 12:05 AM
me personaly i take the 2 min to walk out in the cold to start my car it kinda wakes me up so i think they are a waste of money

southpawboston
12-03-2004, 08:27 AM
thanks for the helpful comment, gman. there's a lot of things people add to their cars that others may think is a completle waste of money.

Onelove5683
12-08-2004, 06:18 PM
anything yet SPB?

BlueRush
12-08-2004, 08:53 PM
http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id406.html

Would this help?

southpawboston
12-08-2004, 09:11 PM
i'll take a closer look tomorrow...

Onelove5683
12-13-2004, 08:45 PM
i'll take a closer look tomorrow...
Thank You :D


http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id406.html

Would this help?

no becuz its already made for a stick either way. thanks for the thought though.. btw i did that mod and its niiiiiiiiice


Thank You :D



no becuz its already made for a stick either way. thanks for the thought though.. btw i did that mod and its niiiiiiiiice



anything yet :bowdown:

BlueRush
12-13-2004, 08:49 PM
Onelove, where is that located, under the clutch pedal on the floor board, as I haven't really had much time to look with everything else I've been doin. Thank you and you're welcome, no problem.

BTW... So if I get a kit for an automatic (which is all we do @ my shop), will it work if I do that mod? Any ideas?

Onelove5683
12-18-2004, 10:01 AM
SPB, have u had a chance to look at this?

southpawboston
12-18-2004, 08:19 PM
well from the looks of it, it should work. it uses almost all the same wiring as the one i have. i matched up the wires on the installation pdf you gave me with the wires you have to splice them to on the elantra. refer to my DIY for the locations of the wires.

http://homepage.mac.com/tutter/DIY/remotestart.jpg

let me know if you have any problems.

Onelove5683
12-19-2004, 09:18 PM
ok i think this makes more sense... great!

now, whats the I/P- e a b and g?

and do you have an suggestions on splicing these whires? i dont want to F up my ignition harness too bad!

also, is this going to start the car with the doors locked and factory alarm on?

southpawboston
12-20-2004, 10:17 AM
I/P-x and EMxx refer to the names of the connectors that plug into the fuse block. there are hundreds of connectors throughout the car and hyundai assigns each a code. I/P-x refers to the connectors going to the fuse block. EMxx refers to the connectors on the main harness. read my online DIY and you will see where all of these are located. for splicing, splice anywhere along the wires. you don't need to splice near the connector. but you will have to remove the driver side kick panel and unbolt the whole lower crash panel below the steering column and remove the fuse block to get to them all.

and it should work with the car locked/armed. the alarm should unarm when the remote start module kicks on. i assume this remote start has its own remote???

Onelove5683
12-20-2004, 04:39 PM
yes it has its own remote..

i read through the diy and i didnt see anything about the i/p locations..
what do u mean remove the fuse block? it seems like a lot of the wires i need are in there huh?

also, where is the grey wire that i need to wire into the clutch switch? and why does it come from the starter output?

does it make any difference that i have the clutch bypass thing done?

southpawboston
12-20-2004, 05:13 PM
okay, it looks like the graphics are kind of hard to make out on the DIY. here are the direct images of the I/P-x connectors at the fuse box:

http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/E2/E2KC301A.gif

http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/E2/E2KC301B.gif

it's pretty tight in that area of the dash. it's easiest to get to those harnesses if you just drop the whole fuse block. also, each of the connectors have a unique shape so it's impossible to plug them back in in the wrong sockets.

oh, and you DO HAVE TO undo your clutch interlock bypass. it has to work normally for the remote start to work. the gray wire is one of the two wires you unplugged from the clutch switch when you did the mod. the reason you splice into that wire is because that's the wire that sends the signal to the starter to crank when you turn the key. that's the idea behind the clutch interlock switch. it's normally open, so the key doesn't tell the starter to crank. when you press the pedal the switch closes and the voltage from the key (start position) can now reach the starter relay. when the remote start is activated, it sends 12V to that grey wire and tells the starter relay to engage.

Onelove5683
12-20-2004, 10:31 PM
ok i just took the lower crash panel out.... man this its way too cold out to start this tonight...

i think once i drop the fuse blocks ill be in business.... at that point its just a matter of splicing all the wires in the right spot.

nothing goes to the engine compartment right?

i sure hope this isnt a mistake... should i expect to be out there all day tomorrow?

southpawboston
12-21-2004, 10:51 AM
nothing should have to be wired in the engine bay. everything you need is under the dash. but i make no gaurantees this will work-- i have not worked with your particular brand/model of remote start. but the wires that you're splicing into are all the same wires i used with my remote start and it works fine...

dude, there's no way you're doing this outside, is there? pittspurgh can't be too much warmer than here, and it's 19 degrees right now. if i tried doing that in this weather my fingers would freeze off.

Onelove5683
12-21-2004, 02:21 PM
dude, there's no way you're doing this outside, is there? pittspurgh can't be too much warmer than here, and it's 19 degrees right now. if i tried doing that in this weather my fingers would freeze off.


yes tell me about it, but the few hrs of feezing my arse off is worth the warmth of an already started car in the mornings ;)

some of these colors arent matching up... like my i/pE has orange1 white2 yellow3 pink4 now what

southpawboston
12-21-2004, 02:35 PM
what year is your elantra??? those are the colors listed on webtech for the 01-03, and my 02 has the same colors. you may need a voltmeter or test light to see which are the right ones.

Onelove5683
12-22-2004, 03:44 PM
non of the wires i needed seemed to be in the fuse block...
so after researching and testing things, basically everything i needed was in the ignition harness and one blue wire in pin 66 of the ECM.
so its finally working...


Now, this unit acts as a turbo timer and runs with the key out of the ignition then once you pulse the ground it shuts the car off and engages the remote start system. it is supposed to connect to the door pin but i cant figure which wire right now..
either way, I'd rather connect it to the negative door lock wire, so when i engage the factory alarm and the doors lock..the car will shut off and the remote start will engage.

so can anyone help me figure out and easy access to the negative door lock wire?

southpawboston
12-22-2004, 04:42 PM
the stock remote might not work with the engine running.

Onelove5683
12-22-2004, 06:07 PM
the stock remote might not work with the engine running.

it works, it doesnt work with the key in the ignition.

any idea where the neg door lock wire is?

southpawboston
12-22-2004, 09:24 PM
MM01 pin 10, yellow wire. as shown below. it's behind the driver's kick panel. ignore the bottom pic, that's the wire to connect to the hood switch.

http://homepage.mac.com/tutter/DIY/autocommand/_res/ooxuwwnt.jpg


what year is your elantra?

Onelove5683
12-23-2004, 11:40 AM
2003.

i'd rather not use the door pin wire, but instead the negative door lock wire that comes from either the alarm or the actuator.

southpawboston
12-23-2004, 02:30 PM
sorry, i thought i read "door pin" wire but obviously you said "door lock" wire. stupid me...

the neg door lock wire is the yellow wire coming from the door lock module behind the dash. it's only a pulse signal, not a constant neg when the doors are locked.

Onelove5683
12-23-2004, 05:19 PM
sorry, i thought i read "door pin" wire but obviously you said "door lock" wire. stupid me...

the neg door lock wire is the yellow wire coming from the door lock module behind the dash. it's only a pulse signal, not a constant neg when the doors are locked.

do you have a pic?

this is perfect, i specifically need a ground pulse

ALSO, where is the neg wire that tells the car the parking brake is on?
i took the center console out but there are no wires to the parking brake!

my question is wheres the parking brake switch?

http://www.hmaservice.com/xml/graphics/v5/v5be060o1.gif


ok found it.

now all i need is the neg door lock wire. and do you think its hard to connect this to the factory alarm so i can use the factory keyfob like you do?

southpawboston
12-23-2004, 09:43 PM
the door lock module looks like a large relay and is bolted to the dash frame behind the HVAC controls. it is to the right of the ETACS. there is a 10-pin harness going into it. you can feel and hear it click when you lock/unlock the doors. look for the yellow wire. not the yellow/orange striped. that's the unlock pulse.

it's harder to hook up the remote start with the stock alarm. you need to buy a pulse timer relay from PAC. it's called the PAC TR7 pulse timer relay. do a google search for places that sell it. it's a programmable relay that lets you program a series of pulses that causes a separate trigger pulse. i use it to let me start my car by hitting unlock/lock/unlock/lock. (i like to keep my doors locked when i remote start).

menallychllngd
12-31-2004, 06:29 PM
help................ i just finished my remote start and now i have no headlights can't figure it out......please help....i have an 03 elantra w/out daytime runners

southpawboston
12-31-2004, 07:34 PM
check fuse 20. other than that, the only thing i can think of is that you forgot to plug a connector back in somewhere. does the remote start work?

menallychllngd
01-02-2005, 07:52 PM
ok i found it.....i accidentally somehow without even my own knowlege cut the white wire in the lightswitch harness. i hate when you make a stupid mistake. the remote start is now working. on to stage two. the next problem that i have been having is setting up the actuator for the keyless entry. the actuator is supposively a reverse polarity but i have had no luck with the digrams.

southpawboston
01-02-2005, 09:43 PM
yes the actuator works on reverse polarity. when the wires are hooked up one way the actuator moves in one direction; when the wires are hooked up the other way the actuator moves in the other direction.

so i am guessing you have a GLS w/out keyless entry?

menallychllngd
01-10-2005, 08:12 PM
friggin radio shack and partsexpress.com trying to screw me. good guess on the gls. I finally got it all working after i realized that i had the wrong relays. i ordered the right relays and other parts i needed from parts express and they were on back order so they sent me everything but the relays. i finally was able to find some 5 pin relays and got everything working. next challenge is the trunk popper. i was wondering if i needed a relay (the unit puts out 500 mA) or not. And if i do need a relay what might the wiring be?
thank you southpawboston.

southpawboston
01-10-2005, 10:34 PM
i wouldn't trust the 500mA output. i would use a relay between the module and the trunk popper.

if the output is (-) then hook the output to terminal 85 and hook up constant 12V to terminals 86 and 30. hook up the trunk popper pos wire to terminal 87 and the neg wire to ground.

if the output is (+) then hook the output to terminal 86, ground to 85, and all the other terminals as above.

ilanpro
01-10-2005, 10:55 PM
I did used a Relay for the trunk on my wifes passport I advise you do that too

menallychllngd
01-15-2005, 07:04 PM
thanx for the help i am gonna try that and get back to you on my progress. :bowdown:

hey guys im holding off on the trunk until the weather gets warmer. NJ is cold. i was going over everything and i noticed i forgot to hook my flashers up to the alarm. i was wondering not to be a pest or anything if you guys could help me with that. the alarm output is (+ or -), i believe. my manual say that if the parking lights require less than 10 amps i don't need a relay. so can you guys answer me whether they are and where i might go about hooking into them. thank you all for the help so far. i have found it easy finding the resources ive needed so far and i want you guys to know that your help is greatly appreciated. unfortunatly my car is always going to be a work in progress. maybe i can atleast get this part finished.

southpawboston
01-15-2005, 08:37 PM
thanx for the help i am gonna try that and get back to you on my progress. :bowdown:

hey guys im holding off on the trunk until the weather gets warmer. NJ is cold. i was going over everything and i noticed i forgot to hook my flashers up to the alarm. i was wondering not to be a pest or anything if you guys could help me with that. the alarm output is (+ or -), i believe. my manual say that if the parking lights require less than 10 amps i don't need a relay. so can you guys answer me whether they are and where i might go about hooking into them. thank you all for the help so far. i have found it easy finding the resources ive needed so far and i want you guys to know that your help is greatly appreciated. unfortunatly my car is always going to be a work in progress. maybe i can atleast get this part finished.

hooking up the flashers to the alarm is easy. just hook up the flasher output (-) to the green wire on pin 8 of connector C. check out my ETACS DIY (http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id382.html) at the EGT club to find out exactly where this wire it.

menallychllngd
01-15-2005, 09:04 PM
im sorry i forgot to tell you i have no etacs

southpawboston
01-15-2005, 10:04 PM
oh, that's harder. the left and right turn signals are independent circuits, so you need to pick up two relays and hook both relays up to your alarm output and then each relay to left/right turn signals. relays should be about $4 each at any auto parts stores. you can get either 4-terminal (SPST) or 5-terminal (SPDT) relays, either will do the job.

menallychllngd
01-15-2005, 10:52 PM
i found where the parking lights go into the fuse panel and there are two wires but it looks like one for the front and one for the back. so i think i could get away with one relay and only have the front flash. or it seems like i could even bridge the two together.should i hook in there, the emergency flasher, or the right & left turn signals like you recomended. and do i really need a relay because i am hooking into it before the main relay?
once again thank you southpaw :bowdown:

oh and in new jersey relays go for around 7-9 dollars....don't ask me why

southpawboston
01-16-2005, 11:52 AM
if you want to tap into the parking lights, the best way is to have your alarm (-) output trigger the parking lights relay. you can just splice into the blue wire at connector I/P-H, pin 5. go here (http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394883760#_394883760%00) to see where connector I/P-H is. going this route is free since you don't have to buy a relay.

the way the 4-way flasher works is that it is a double-throw switch, meaning that it is two independent switches activated by a single button. one switch operates the left side and the other operated the right side. if you tried to connect your alaem output to both sides of the hazards switch, then every time you tried to use your turn signals, the 4-ways would come on.

and i think you can find relays cheaper. try autozone or pepboys. you can also order them online for $1-2 + shipping. i usually get them in packs of 10 or so, so that with shipping it still comes out cheap.

menallychllngd
01-16-2005, 03:32 PM
thank you. :bowdown: if i tap in there it will allow the unit to send a negative output to the parking light relay and flash the parking lights right. the relays i will try to order online again. but i might not have to i'll prolly just go to radioshack and spend the $7 on a 4 pin relay that i will use for the trunk release. once i do that i should be all wraped up. i will prolly hook this up the same day as the trunk, any day above 30 deg. once again thank you and i will keep you posted. :bowdown:

southpawboston
01-16-2005, 07:31 PM
thank you. :bowdown: if i tap in there it will allow the unit to send a negative output to the parking light relay and flash the parking lights right.

yes



the relays i will try to order online again. but i might not have to i'll prolly just go to radioshack and spend the $7 on a 4 pin relay that i will use for the trunk release.

this (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-073) is what i got. you can also get the pigtail harness (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-075) to go with it.

menallychllngd
01-20-2005, 05:10 PM
i guess i will try to order from there when they come back into stock but i almost don't want to since they screwed me before. i get harneses but no relays. thats always nice. thank you southpaw

hey southpaw tried playing with the unit again today. i was not able to use the trigger output for the alarm for my parking lights. i coverted it to neg output and hooked into the harness where you said and nothing. i used my meter and it is where the parking lights are but for some reason when i turned the switch on it showed 10v. am i going to need a relay afterall?

johnmacd
12-08-2005, 02:55 PM
I want to install a remote starter on a 2005 Elantra. Any recommendations as to what remote starter to buy? Also it looks like it's possible to use the factory remote, but I need to buy a PAC/ TR7. Is that correct?
Is there anything I should know before atempting this install?

southpawboston
12-08-2005, 04:14 PM
just make sure you're good with wiring, and comfortable using a multimeter and reading schematics. because if and when you have to troubleshoot your install, that's what you'll have to be able to do.

there's a lot of places you have to tap into for a remote starter, so it's not as trivial as installing a new stereo.

menallychllngd
12-08-2005, 09:48 PM
yeah its kind of a pain. lucky we have an electrical genius on here who is so helpful. if you are thinking of using the factory remote southpaw has a good diy on elantragtclub. i must say though, if you can wait until winter is over. i did mine in the dead of winter and froze my nuggies off.

mgorman87
10-23-2008, 09:27 AM
*it's alive!!*

i want to install a remote start for my car. i have a manual trans. and an after market alarm. my remote has a lock/unlock button, a panic button, and an AUX button. can you get an add-on starter that utilizes the AUX button from my alarm system? i don't really know much about this stuff and i wanted to try and do it myself.

Ugzz
10-23-2008, 04:23 PM
duno about an add-on for what you have. but there are peeps here that have a remote start with manual.

and Holy Thread Resurrection Batman! but that is better then making the 1 millionth thread about the same damn thing. so good show ol bean

Munky
10-23-2008, 04:25 PM
The only thing that stops you from putting a remote start in a manual is the switch in the clutch pedal. Normally, you have to have the clutch to the floor to start the car.

You can splice the wires together, but then you run the risk of messing up your own car/someone else's car by leaving it in gear and starting it remotely.

Ugzz
10-23-2008, 04:36 PM
PA either just passes or is planning on passing a law that will allow remote starters designed for manuals to be allowed. not sure if it got passed or not, but last i checked (about 1.5 years ago) it was illegal.

its the kits that have multiple sensor checks, neutral, e-brake etc.

so, like with tint, you "can" find places that will do it, but its usually cash only and they will deny they installed it. the more reputable places just wont touch manuals, but like i said, i had read we were pushin to allow the special kits.