rear swaybar & endlinks upgrade

[clarion]

this is a very easy mod

all you need is 19.2mm tib swaybar or the adustible progress 22mm swaybar (one i used) new bushings or brackets if needed and metal endlinks if needed

1. remove the 2 nuts on the plastic endlink, repeat on other side
2. remove the 2 bolts on the bracket holding the sway bar, repeat on other side
3. the sway bar will fall down
4. put the metal endlinks on the car, don't tighten all the way
5. put the bushings on the sway bar, then put the bracket over the bushing, bolt everything back under the car, don't tighten all the way
6. put the endlinks in the sway bar, put the nut on ,don't tighten all the way
7. put the car on the ground if you raised it up or took a wheel off, then thighten everything down
8. take it for a ride and enjoy going 20mph faster on your favorite turns :)

[2004avanteXD]

any idea what size the stock elantra one is???

[SWortham]

14mm if I remember right.

[evan938]

i thought it was 13mm...oh well, i dont wanna argue about 1mm...lol

[SuperGLS]

This DIY is now up. Thanks for the support, I'm sure this will help out lots of people.

[silet]

any idea what size the stock elantra one is???


GLS 13 mm, GT 15 mm

[GgellerGT]

Does anyone have part #'s for all the items needed for the Tibby Sway Bar Upgrade?
Is the 22mm better?

[CornbreadXD]

i was wondering the same is the 22mm better? I have a 03 gls or can you tell the diff?

[evan938]

i know its only 3mm bigger than the tib swaybar, but i have heard it may caus some oversteer...i have the tib sway bar and i love it...now i just need to get some sticky tires and hit those nice ohia country roads

[clarion]

i love it, i would recomend it, it feels like im driving a tib, stiff feeling

you can take turns going 20mph faster without a problem, it makes a huge differance, i also have 17" motegi mr7 w/ falken tires,strut bar, that helps too

do the mod, do it now :tongue:

[2001GLS]

How much difference does it make on a totally stock XD? Can it be installed without jacking the car up or removing the rear tires?

[BlackElantraGT]

On a stock car, it's one of the best mod you can do for your money. You'll notice a huge improvement. If you're a small person, you don't need to jack the car up and the tires do not need to be removed. I had to jack up the rear in order to perform the work. The hardest part is getting the endlinks off.

[Archibald]

Any idea on the ft-lbs of torque for the different bolts?

[blupupher]

Does anyone have part #'s for all the items needed for the Tibby Sway Bar Upgrade?
Is the 22mm better?

Hyundai #'s are as follows:

55511-2C000 sway bar 1 needed
55513-2C110 bushings 2 needed
13270-10001 nuts 4 needed
55530-29500 endlinks 2 needed

The 22mm is too much for the Elantra unless you upgrade the front also, you have to changes more than just the bar and links. I just bought it all for $130 shipped new from a dealer on Elantraclub.com. Should be getting it Monday.

[SuperGLS]

Try Webtech (look in the Related Links section). Oh, and yes, I could just type the link, but this way you see all the links in there, yay.

Any idea on the ft-lbs of torque for the different bolts?

This thread has a lot, but not that one.

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6120&highlight=torque+specs

[sed]

Rear stabilizer bar mounting bracket: 13-19 lb.ft

Rear stabilizer bar link mounting: 26-33 lb.ft

[jfreak921]

How much does this really help? I had a strut bar on my front struts in my saturn and couldn't feel a thing. Does the sway bar do any better?

[blupupher]

How much does this really help? I had a strut bar on my front struts in my saturn and couldn't feel a thing. Does the sway bar do any better?
Everyone that has done it says it is amazing. I decided to try it myself with some of my tax refund. I will post my thoughts on it. As a 35 yr old who knows this is not a sports car, I am very interested to see if I can really tell a difference in the way it handles in regular driving conditions.

A sway bar and strut bar are two different beasts, one changes the flex/stiffness of the body itself, one changes the roll of the body on the axles. I would think an upgraded swaybar would make more of a difference than a strut bar.

[JacksonJ]

I need some help with this upgrade, It's probably because my car is 3 1/2 years old but I can't seem to get these bolts off.

I have tried to use an open ended wrench and push it against the rubber boot to prevent it from turning, but then the nut just turns and turns forever, then when I try to tighten it back up it tightens in 1-2 turns of the ratchet. I've attached a pic with arrows pointing to the 2 nuts, I've tried both since I will be reusing the endlinks. Any one have any tips?

http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2442&stc=1

[sed]

cut em off

[JacksonJ]

Perfect, just what I didn't want to hear. I guess I'll have to take this to my mechanic to get installed now, I don't have anything to cut them off with.

[SWortham]

I don't remember exactly but isn't there a rubber cover on the back side of that endlink? And then when you lift up the cover you'll see that you need another wrench to hold the bolt as you turn the nut on the other side. Have you done that? Or am I making this up?

Ah, now I remember where I saw that:
Well its all fixed now...impact wrench in bursts was no good the bolt just kept spinning...so I took a step back, took a deep breath and looked at the bottom part of the endlink where I disconnected it from the Swaybar. On the back of the bolt before it gets to the joint you can use a 14mm open-ended wrench and hold the bolt so it doesn't spin. Its really hard to see that you can do that because of the rubber boot covering the joint area. But its all fixed now and no more clunking. And I can drive and enjoy those Apex Springs now.
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1820&highlight=endlink

[JacksonJ]

Thanks SWortham, I'll give that a try next time. I'll be trying again hopefully this weekend maybe get my dad to help me.

[JacksonJ]

Well, I love my new sway bar modification..... I have no sway bar on my car right now ;) It's ok, I took it over to Cottonmouth's place tonight and him and I tried to remove the old one, the bolts ended up getting ceased up and stuff, We ended up getting one entire endlink off, and the other side the endlink would not come off, but the sway bar would. So he said he'd call up the dealership he works at and get them to cut off the other endlink and install the new bar for me with brand new metal endlinks.

My recommendation is not to do this mod with out buying all new hardware if your car is more then a few years old.

[KeWLKaT]

I was afraid of that. Thanks, I will be buying some endlinks then, because i've tryed sometimes already and it wasnt successful lol.

[themanfriday]

I just called a dealer in Springfield PA and every thing caost me $161.46 + Tax
$170.72

Parts:
Brackets 2@$2.31=$4.62
Swaybar $80.90
bushings 2@$9.90=$19.80
lugnuts 4@$0.52ea=$2.08
endlinks 2@$25.21ea= $50.42
bolts$0.81 x4= $3.64

Am i missing anything?

I may have been away from the US to long I am not used to paying sales tax.

[DAILLESTWUN]

I just called a dealer in Springfield PA and every thing caost me $161.46 + Tax
$170.72

Parts:
Brackets 2@$2.31=$4.62
Swaybar $80.90
bushings 2@$9.90=$19.80
lugnuts 4@$0.52ea=$2.08
endlinks 2@$25.21ea= $50.42
bolts$0.81 x4= $3.64

Am i missing anything?

I may have been away from the US to long I am not used to paying sales tax.

Just for a lil info, I just installed my swaybar about 3 weeks ago. My car is 4 yrs old and it came with the metal end-links.

I used the same bolts and same brackets for the bushings..it runs great...

All you really need is the bar, the bushings, and the end-links if you don't already have them...

Anyway, talk to Sed. He'll get you a good deal on those parts...

[blupupher]

IMO, don't worry about the metal endlinks. Just get the swaybar and bushings. You don't need the brackets, your stock ones will work, same with the nuts and bolts.

Sed has a thread here somewhere for everything for like $140.

[DAILLESTWUN]

IMO, don't worry about the metal endlinks. Just get the swaybar and bushings. You don't need the brackets, your stock ones will work, same with the nuts and bolts.

Sed has a thread here somewhere for everything for like $140.

There are ppl who have stayed with the plastic end-links but it's safer to go with the metal one's. Just to avoid any future complications like a link snapping or sumthing..

[blupupher]

There are ppl who have stayed with the plastic end-links but it's safer to go with the metal one's. Just to avoid any future complications like a link snapping or sumthing..
If there were a problem with the plastic ones breaking I would agree. I have yet to read of anyone breaking the plastic ones. Unless your autocrossing every week, I doubt you would ever put enough stress on the plastic links to break them.
And yes, I do have the metal links on mine, but only because I did not know any better. I would have rather saved $50.

[sed]

148 shipped in the lower 48

bar
bushings
links
nuts
bolts

shawn :)

[themanfriday]

Purshased it already Using the hyundai gift card from the classaction law suit.

[DAILLESTWUN]

148 shipped in the lower 48

bar
bushings
links
nuts
bolts

shawn :)

Can't beat that. And anyway, y wait till one of the links breaks for? Better to have metal one's which are definately better..

[blupupher]

Can't beat that. And anyway, y wait till one of the links breaks for? Better to have metal one's which are definately better..


Says who? Where are all these breaking links? You broken any? Seen any. Heard of any? No, just that everyone says "they may break".

[jh0n]

I`d love to see someone put a plastic endlink in a big vise, slip a piece of 6 foot long 2 inch steam pipe over it and see how much it would take to break, I bet it would bend a long way. I have no concerns with mine being under my car, I have more issues with the bar sliding one way or the other, I am gunna put a hose clamp either side of the saddle mounts, that should cure it. I think I put too much grease on the urethane saddles,when they squeaked and **** me right off, I cleaned it all off and refitted it with minimal grease recently.. If it moves again, I am convinced the hose clamps will fix it.

[DAILLESTWUN]

Says who? Where are all these breaking links? You broken any? Seen any. Heard of any? No, just that everyone says "they may break".

Omg, ok first off, I never had plastic cuz my car came stock with metal end-links. Now you tell me, which is stronger, Plastic or metal?? I never said they will break but why take the chance. Might as well spend a few more bucks and get the metal end-links. I'm sure overall the metal end-links will be better.

[sciphi]

For the owners of older (96-00) Elantras and 97-01 Tibs, bending the Tib GT swaybar is critical, otherwise it won't clear the rear shocks. The Tib GT bar is 43.75" wide, and the stock bar on those Elantras is 42.5" wide. To bend the bar, get a big freakin' torch (thanks Harbor Freight), heat it up, and have a friend jumping on it. Hard. Don't forget to measure frequently to make sure it's 42-42.5" wide. And make sure to get both sides!

[2000 elantra]

For the owners of older (96-00) Elantras and 97-01 Tibs, bending the Tib GT swaybar is critical, otherwise it won't clear the rear shocks. The Tib GT bar is 43.75" wide, and the stock bar on those Elantras is 42.5" wide. To bend the bar, get a big freakin' torch (thanks Harbor Freight), heat it up, and have a friend jumping on it. Hard. Don't forget to measure frequently to make sure it's 42-42.5" wide. And make sure to get both sides!

I have a 2000 elantra and I didn't have to bend anything.Plus for this installe go with the moog endlinks and the poly bushings youll be very happy that youy did.The cost of my hole upgrade was like $40 bucks.The dealer give me the sway bar for free for losing 3 out of 4 sway bars.

[sciphi]

Hmmm, might be a case of my car (the 99 wagon) being different from other J2's again. The sides of the bar were hitting the shocks on either side, thus necessitating the bending. The bar was so tight we could not force it up anywhere close to the frame. Thus the bending. Now you have me wondering if the wagon wasn't narrower in the rear than the sedan.

Anyhow, a little tape measure action will tell whether you have to bend the bar or not. Hopefully not.

[h34d]

i just finished putting the tib gt bar on my '04 xd2 - so sweet. the first few minutes of driving were incredible, noticing the difference in the handling.

i ended up taking the back tires off one at a time to get the old endlinks off, though i could see someone managing without doing so.

to get the nut off the plastic endlinks i had to rip up the rubber seal covering the bolt behind the ends of the endlinks in order to keep it from turning as mentioned above. this would seem to be the solution to the metal vs plastic endlinks argument - it seems like it would be really difficult to get the existing endlinks off without damaging them(the rubber seals had a bunch of oil under them as lubrication, got nice and dirty changing them). so if you're getting new endlinks might as well be metal.

thanks for the great diy, i love this mod!

[kylemorg]

to get the nut off the plastic endlinks i had to rip up the rubber seal covering the bolt behind the ends of the endlinks in order to keep it from turning as mentioned above...it seems like it would be really difficult to get the existing endlinks off without damaging them...

If you look closely at the rubber seal side of the end links, you'll notice that there are two flat spots on the metal part that meets the sway bar itself. I can't remember the size; it might be a 10mm open ended wrench -- but if you slide that over the end link bolts to the sway bar, you can keep them from spinning and get the nut on the other side off of the sway bar.

I noticed that after destroying one of the rubber boots on the end links myself...

That will allow you to reuse the end links if you want.

[elantra_mann84]

im planning on doing this mod in the near future i just got a nice job offer so when it turns out i will purchace but my question is this ...............

who and were do i get these from??

i would prefer the 19mm bar
and metal endlinks

[BColeman]

SEARCH ! ! ! !

Holy crap, Batman! Save your money and read this site first. Hell, by the number of posts you've got, you'd think you've read a thing or two here.

Where does the 19.2mm sway bar come from? You should know this by now.

Where do you get the metal endlinks for that bar? Maybe from the same car that the bar comes from? Or maybe the MOOG or TRW ones that are talked about in 3 different threads?

Answer these questions and you will find enlightenment towards the answers of your own questions.

[caseinajar]

if you go to hyundaipartsonline.com you can buy the tibby 19.2 swaybar for a great deal. i bought mine there along with the endlinks and bushings. the brackets are the same. it came out to like $120 US. shipped.its a dealership i think they shipped from washington state. i ended up buying a few things on a few different occasions. they give you discounted prices and have great customer service. i ordered over the phone so i could make sure they got all the details but always refer to the part numbers when ordering.
EDIT- oh yeah and it is awesome. DO IT!

[saturn]

make sure you get the one with the GREEN markings on it - this is the 19.2 mm swaybar. and as was said, just replace the bushings, the brackets are the same.

also, get MOOG metal endlinks from OUTSIDE the dealer (at CarQuest or AutoZone or smoething, they're listed under our cars as an accessory)

make sure you grease them up with a zerk grease gun - the endlinks should come with fittings for it that screw into the back of each joint. you will have a hard time greasing them after they're installed, so do it before. pump the gun until grease squirts out from behind the rubber boot. ungreased endlinks = snap.

[realviper78]

just finished the mod myself. definately worth the money. now to find other mods with noticable differences like this for cheap.

[Doohickie]

make sure you get the one with the GREEN markings on it - this is the 19.2 mm swaybar. and as was said, just replace the bushings, the brackets are the same.

also, get MOOG metal endlinks from OUTSIDE the dealer (at CarQuest or AutoZone or smoething, they're listed under our cars as an accessory)

make sure you grease them up with a zerk grease gun - the endlinks should come with fittings for it that screw into the back of each joint. you will have a hard time greasing them after they're installed, so do it before. pump the gun until grease squirts out from behind the rubber boot. ungreased endlinks = snap.
I can personally back all that up- although I don't know about the snap part since I greased my fittings. I got my bar at a dealer and even though I ordered the part number for the 19 mm bar, they gave me a bar with a yellow spot that was only 18 mm thick. I returned it, and because of the confusion, the dealer ordered both Tib sway bar numbers (for 18 and 19 mm) and this time guess what? *Both* had the green dot, which means they were both 19s. So the warehouse isn't really good on pulling parts. If you order a new bar, make sure you get the right one!

Given all that, the yellow-marked, 18 mm sway bar is a nice improvement for the sedan, if that's what you have. A few people have found that the rear end breaks loose a little too easily with the 19, especially on sedans. So bear that in mind when you get your bar (don't pass up a good deal on an 18 just cuz it's an 18).

I wrote up a DIY on sway bars for another site that has a lot of discussion. You can check it out here (http://www.dfwhyundais.com/diy/DIY-SwayBar.html).

[born2pdl]

Cost: Why spend ~$150 on this upgrade? I found a 19mm 2004 tib RSB on car-part.com. RSB, center brackets, shipping were $35 total.

I tried bigger swaybars on various cars in the past. I like the cornering most of the time, but I think the 19mm RSB on a gls will result in excessive oversteer and cause someone to spin if they go into a corner too fast and brake hard. Of course if you are young and inexperienced enough, that could never happen to you.

My recommendations:
- For a GT, get a used 19mm tib RSB for under $50.
- For a GLS, get a used 18mm tib RSB for under $50.
- Or for a GLS (if you can change the FSB), get a used GT FSB and a used 19mm tib RSB.

[silversharkXD2]

Question... what size is the front sway bar on the GT and is the tib bar bigger?

second question... I have the progress adj. bar. Am I to assume that the last hole is the softer setting and the inner hole the stiffest? It makes sense to me but I want to be sure.

Third...has anyone had the progress bar and tried both settings? If so, which did you prefer?

[saturn]

the tib bar is probably a smaller diameter, if not equal to the GT - you don't want it stiffer in the front!

the inner holes are stiffer on adjustable bars

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/images/jeff_pics/swaybars/frontstiff.jpg

I have the adjustable bar. I've only had it set to the lower setting and it seems fine for me... though if I switched I may get addicted. keep in mind I have the (heavier) hatchback GT, which would not be as prone to losing control of the rear end as the sedan.

[mlumz]

Do you need to torque the nuts for the swaybar or is hand tighten OK?

[mtyler11]

Omg, ok first off, I never had plastic cuz my car came stock with metal end-links. Now you tell me, which is stronger, Plastic or metal?? I never said they will break but why take the chance. Might as well spend a few more bucks and get the metal end-links. I'm sure overall the metal end-links will be better.
Sorry man, but I gotta disagree with you. this is the same thinking that carbs are better than fuel injection. Back in the 90's this was true, but not so much anymore. Nylon parts (call them plastic if you want) are very resilient and light to boot. is it stronger than steel? probably not, but if you are not racing or beating onthe car on a daily basis, I wouldnt sweat it. If you are doing your preventitive maintenance regularly then just replace them at 100K mi or when you replace the swaybar frame mounts. Afterall, depending on your environment, 5-7 years and it will be time to replace them of you want performance. much longer than that and your rubber mounts will turn spongy. And urethane mounts always seem to squeak incessantly at 7yrs old no matter what I do to grease them.