best SQ/SPL setup????

[mtvslick]

what does everyone run for stereo setup?
what kind of wattage?
what r ur DB levels at?
whats the best location and direction of ur subs?
I am wondering what the best setup would be. as mine I can't sem to get past 151 Db

2 - 12" Visonick 2500 watt (1250 RMS) subs
2 - RF 1001watt amps
3 - 1 farad caps
stock 6 speaker locations with Visonik components installed with no alterations done.
1 600watt RF 4 channel amp

anyone have any suggestions?
lets hear what everyone has.......
lets hear bragging rights, lol

Mark,

[2loud2k2xd]

i dont think too many people in here are pushing upwards of 151. db. what did you have your set-up tested on, termlab? im still waitin for my first comp after winter to check out mine.

my audio set-up:
pioneer 960mp
pioneer p8dvd touchscreen
audiobahn 2300hct flameQ (1 ohm)
2-12" audiobahn flameQ subs
6.5cu' box (lined with dynamat)
audiobahn components
audiobahn 6004 amp
remote bass controller
optima yellow top 1125cca (dual battery set-up)
3 farad digital cap
digital dist block
0ga +/-
150 amp circuit breaker
160 amp relay - 200 amp isolator (not installed)
100 sq yards of dynamat in interior

this is a pic of my sub box position
pic is fuzzy a little sorry
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1437

[jpjr]

What kind of box are your subs in? How did you get the 151 db figure. Thats not loud enough for you? That is loud enough to blow your eardrums and not to many people can even stand sitting in a car at that volume. How do you keep your cd player from skipping? If you are really at 151 db, you will probably need to add more or bigger subs. How do you have 2 subs wired to 3 amps? I would not recommend more or bigger amps unless you plan to upgrade your alternator or add a second one as you already have way more power then the stock system can handle.
And 151 db using the stock speakers must really sound like **** as there is no way the stock speakers can handle that volume or power level.

[mtvslick]

1 amp per sub, and the other is for the components, actually an audio dealer has informed me that having 1 1000 amp and a 600 amp wired together is useless so I will be removing the one amp cause it adds nothing to the system the way I have it hooked up. also, I meant that the stock speakers positions were in use without changes with Visonik components installed in there place with no alterations done.

and yes it sounds like ****, lol

lots of sound deadening done to my car too, helps alot,

the db reading is from a radioshack db meter, so might not be as exact.

subs r in a bandpass box dual,

player never skipped, and dont know y it would,

a remote control is how I keep from blowing my ear drums, lol

like I would actually sit in the car at that level.

I also have a dual battery setup in the rear hatch as well.

I will post some pics soon,

and American Bass has a record of 174.? db using 1 sub with 8 amps running it, it's all in the setup. our hatchbacks r one of the best design for getting high db's if setup correctly, and I am slowly learning, lol

[2loud2k2xd]

i am pushing about 2400 watts RMS (1 ohm) from my sub amp alone. not including the 600 watts from my component amp. not to critisize your set-up, but i dont think you are in the 150 range. i might hit upwards of 155 tops with mine. dont get me wrong, you might be able to. also try to get spl reading done on a termlab. im waiting for spring to come so i can get tested. anyways, its nice to hear of another bass head like me. it would be nice to see your ride at a few sound comps this year. kit man, keep us informed as to your progress. later

[jpjr]

So we are talking SPL, not SQ, correct? I say this because one of the last things most people usually worry about with SQ is DB levels. And not to many SQ systems need over 1K watts of bass. And if you are not even sitting in the car, then SQ is definitly out of the question. There is nothing wrong with being a bass junkie, but most bass junkies would not be happy with a true SQ built system and vice versa.
The reason the cd player may skip is usually at those db levels, it is enough to shake the little mirrors in your cd player and cause it to skip. If you notice, allot of cars in those db levels that compete have headunits on podiums mounted outside of the car. DB figures without info on what is was recorded on and how it was recorded do not mean a whole lot. DB figures achieved on a Radio shack db meter(nothing wrong with it, great tool for tuning) while playing your favorite bass song are a whole lot different then DB numbers achieved on a real RTA using pink or white noise. And those DB figures will be different if it is recorded while playing music or test tones/ burps. If you are trying to get into the 170db level, you can forget your front speakers all together. Most of these audio systems were only designed to play a narrow frequency and never even meant to play music.
The dual batteries will help, but if you figure you are close to putting out 3K watts rms, and if you charging system stayed at 14 volts, and your amps are 100 percent effecient(most are closer to 50%) your current draw is about 214 amps. In the real world, the current draw would be closer to 350-400 amps. Your alternator at its best can only put out 85 amps. Your batteries and caps will provide the power temporarly, but they are only storage devices and need to be recharged, which is the alternators job. Of course you will not be running the system at full power all the time so this may not be that big of a problem. But if you start pushing it hard for extended lengths of time, expecially at idle(like at competitions) your batteries will start to drain as your alternator cant keep up with the demand and your SPL numbers will drop as the batteries drain. Even if they do not drop low enough to cause problems, they will not be fully charged which is what you need to get max SPL numbers.
What exactly is it you are trying to improve? If it is bass spl, add another set of subs and put them in ported enclosures. The ported enclosure will give you better SQ then the bandpass box and the extra two subs will increase your SPL. If you have an extra amp, you could just buy one more sub and run three subs in ported enclosures being pushed by three amps.
If you are not looking to add anything, I would put the subs you have in a properly built ported box. You might lose 1 or 2 DB (or you might even gain a couple of DB), but a ported enclosure will help your subs handle the power better and sound allot better.

[slow 2K2GT]

MTV slick, perhaps you should put your car audio setup on a diet, the *** end of your car looks rediculous...pick that **** up! Oh yeah once you hit the 150+db mark you need to start doubling power output. If that aint loud enough than get some good headphones and a portable cd player, crank that **** in your ears...good to go at a fraction of the price

[mtvslick]

hahaha that pic is photshopped its not sitting that low

I now have nothing in my car as I am doing a custom fiberglss design, so hopefully it looks sweet!