Modded Stock Intake

[Hot E GT1]

Here is my modded stock intake system.

The way the resonator box works is as so: front duct creates ram air into resonator box, position of duct forces majority of air up into the intake box (where the K&N filter is), what air is not forced up gets dumped out the bottom along with any garbage that might have been forced in the resonator box.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_11_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_12_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_13_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_14_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_15_full.jpg

Modded intake tube between MAF sensor and throttle body.

I simple cut off the resonator, placed a piece of plastic over the hole and wrapped the tube with aircraft electrical vulcanizing tape.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_10_full.jpg

[kylemorg]

I like the mod -- it's an inexpensive and relatively easy-to-apply one. Good job.

Are there two holes in your resonator now; one at the top of the box and one at the bottom?

[FordFasteRR]

also, you'll want to eventually upgrade the elbow because that electrical tape will dry up and peel off of the tube ... then you have a leak and your maf will go crazy... your engine will run crappy and your ecu will shoot a CEL in your face :)


Otherwise, looks awesome !

[pjc6281]

Also you might want to smooth out the inside of the resinator box so the air can flow more smoothly. With all the lines on the inside it looks like it would create some turbulance. Good idea though!

[mtlelantra]

it looks like you also cut a bit of the plastic away from the front beside the driver's side fog light. Not a bad idea for 04/05s and a CAI..

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

The holes in the top and the side are the stock ones. The side hole on a stock box had a rubber/cloth tube attached to it that ran from the bottom side of the box up to the front left side of the engine bay near the battery. The top hole connects the resonator box, through a double elbow tube, to the air filter box. The two stock holes use to be connected by a tube running inside the box. Dremeling out the tube inside the box was the hardest and most time consuming part of the mod. The only holes I added are the one in the front, in which I stuck the tube from inside the lid of the air filter box, and cutting out the bottom. I didn't clean out the fins inside the box because they do create turbulence. You see, the front tube directs the air to the hole in the top of the box. The air path between the two is pretty smooth, but the surrounding area is not. The dynamic of air is the same as water or electricity. It follows the path of least resistance. Thus, the turbulent air actually helps direct the air between the front intake tube and the exit hole. In theory anyway! By far, this system is not perfect and I'm already thinking of ways to improve on it. What I do like about this mod is that it's cheap and effective. Certainly more effective than a basic short ram system and probably as effective as a CAI and a lot cheaper. Check out this link Intake Basics (http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au/technical/cold%20air%20intakes.htm) and Intake Comparison (http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au/technical/cold%20air%20intake%20comparison.htm) for some interesting info on intake systems. The problem with a short ram system is that it sucks up a lot of hot air from the engine bay. Hot air is BAD! COLD AIR IS GOOD! Of course this problem can be eliminated if your short ram is shrouded and ducted to a cold fresh air source. But, now you have to be careful about this system picking up lots of debris and possible water (another really bad thing for your engine). Than there's CAI systems. Pretty good if you live somewhere where it doesn't rain or snow (water suction). But, another problem (other than water suction and expense) with this type of system is the fact that almost all are made from metal. And metal attracts heat. Remember, hot is BAD! COLD IS GOOD! So, although my intake system isn't perfect, it does direct cold air to the air filter (without the possibility of sucking up water or large amounts of debris), is not made of metal, and is cheap. Now, if I could figure out a way of getting rid of the double elbow tube that would not narrow the diameter of the tube or constrict the airflow, and attach to the two boxes, I'd be laughing.

As for the tube between the MAF sensor and throttle body, YES! It needs to be replaced. The tape that I used to wrap the tube is in fact not tape, as you know it. It is self-bonding aircraft electrical tape. You see, it actually has no adhesive on it at all. The way it works is like this: when the tape is stretched and comes in contact with its self, the parts bond to each other. The tap will eventually dry up as was stated in a reply. But, not for a very long time. Anyway, if anyone can direct me to a replacement tube that is not made of metal, I would be very interested.

[Steve]

Why not metal? aluminum piping has a smooth interior for good air flow.

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

Yes! You are right; aluminium piping has a smooth interior for good airflow. But, metal attracts heat! On a shrouded metal short ram system, there probably is very little intake air temperature increase. But, as stated above, short rams and CAI systems do have their problems. And as you can see in the linked article, Intake Comparison (http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au/technical/cold%20air%20intake%20comparison.htm) there could be as much as a 4 degree C increase in intake air temp in a CAI system over my system at idle. And as much as an 11 degree C increase in intake air temp in a CAI system over my system while driving. Even the stock intake system runs cooler while driving than a CAI. My system is an improvement to the articles Hot 4's Homebrew system. The reason that hot air is bad for your engine is this: hot air is less compressible then cold. The more compression your can get out of a constant volume of air, the more power it can generate. And more power is what it's all about!

I'm sorry if you purchased a CAI system. But at least it looks and sounds good. Too bad about performance though!

[pjc6281]

"Too bad about performance"??? The gains we have gotten from our CAI is pretty dam good. Also im sure your system doesnt have as good throttle response as people with cai's do. Only way you can stand behind that comment is to hit the dyno :)

[xHolmeZxGT]

Certainly more effective than a basic short ram system and probably as effective as a CAI and a lot cheaper.


The Short Ram is good and cheep, but it is bad, due to the fact that it is pulling air from the HOT engine bay, and as you stated hot = bad, cold GOOD. The CAIs have been proven in our cars over and over again.
Your set up isnt bad at all, considering the materials you are using and the creativity is good too. It is bad because you are slowing down the air flow into your intake due to the rough interior of your modification.

Yes metal attracts heat, but the properties of Aluminum are good for cooling as well. You are always use a thermal wrap to keep more heat out, and inturn improve the air temp into the IM.

[02xdGLS]

As far as Short Ram vs. CAI goes, i believe FordFasterr actually settled it with dyno. (no hp difference but i think CAI resulted in a it higher torque).

I remember reading some where about how air travels pretty damn fast at WOT (whichs is imo where it all matters) and therefore even if aluminum tubing is a bit hotter, the very insignificant loss is more than made up with cold air and smooth/fast air flow.

i could be wrong though. :tongue:

[FordFasteRR]

yes, the 3 inch ID CAI yielded 5 ft.lb SAE torque at the wheels vs a 3 inch Short Ram (WAI) on the same dyno.

:)

now, imaging the real gains once the car is moving and getting lots of fresh, cool air..

I like his airbox mod... If my intention was to have a high flowing intake system that " LOOKS STOCK " then his mod is by far the best i've seen to date.

the only part that he messed up with was the elbow... if anything, go to the dealer and buy a new replacement elbow and just re-install it.

the small resonator that is built-into the stock elbow has little or no effect at all on performance.


now.. onto the real issue..

the most restrictive part of the entire stock airbox is that little connection between the resonator and the stock airbox... it is a piece that basically goes into the hole on the fender ..

that piece has a 90 degree bend on it, and its flattened down really bad (at least it was on my 2003 XD and on my 2003 Tiburon) ...

if you can replace that thing with something that has a better radius in it .. like a 3 inch rubber elbow or something then you might really see some decent power over stock. :)

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

Thank You! FordFasteRR for your support.

It's nice to hear from someone who has a good understanding of how intakes work.

the only part that he messed up with was the elbow... if anything, go to the dealer and buy a new replacement elbow and just re-install it.

the small resonator that is built-into the stock elbow has little or no effect at all on performance.
I think you are right, I didn't notice any difference when I removed this resonator. I would however prefer to replace it with a smoother, conformed diameter aftermarket piece. But, I can't find one that's not included in a CAI kit. Any suggestions?

now.. onto the real issue..

the most restrictive part of the entire stock airbox is that little connection between the resonator and the stock airbox... it is a piece that basically goes into the hole on the fender ..

that piece has a 90 degree bend on it, and its flattened down really bad (at least it was on my 2003 XD and on my 2003 Tiburon) ...

if you can replace that thing with something that has a better radius in it .. like a 3 inch rubber elbow or something then you might really see some decent power over stock.

Again your right! Mine is the same. I am working on fixing this problem. Hopefully soon!

[FordFasteRR]

great, just please do us all a favor and do not use anymore of that black tape.

:)

[Steve]

What's the diameter of the stock piping? Is it possible to run aluminum piping inside the rubber/plastic stock piping, that way you have better airflow and the stock pipes are doing the insulating you're so concerned about.

Anyway, whenever people question the performance of CAI in comparison to a SRI or now a modded stock intake, I simply refer to my personal experience at the same racetrack, unfortunately they had only 1/8mile the second time there.

Best 1/4 mile time with CAI:
2.332 60ft
10.194 1/8 ET
69.21 1/8 mph
15.975 1/4 ET
85.22 1/4mph

Best 1/8 mile with a SRI:
2.373 60ft
10.456 1/8 ET
67.55 1/8 mph

I'm pretty sure the only way to get more air into the engine better than a 2.75" CAI is forced induction.

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

That's an interesting idea!

Thanks for your suggestion!

[pjc6281]

steve i agree with your last comment about getting air into the engine with the cai. However i would love to see someone fabricate some kind of ram air intake with a relatively straight path into the throttle body. Hot E GT1, u seem to be very handy...do you think you can think of how to create one???

[Snorky]

looks good man and good concept now we just need to throw more ideas to improve it.

[FordFasteRR]

i want to see the connection between the resonator and the stock airbox...

show me some more pics of that area. :)

[Kenshin]

Looks like PSC had a very similar idea. Anyone seen these?

http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au/engine/carbon%20fibre%20cold%20air%20intakes.htm

I think Hot E GT1 is on the right track! Keep up the good work!

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

Designing one isn't a problem. The problem is finding the parts or having someone fabricate them. The ideal setup would be to replace the MAF sensor to throttle body tube with a tube made of carbon fibre, silicone or even plastic that is the same length as the stock tube but has a uniform diameter. Next, would be replacing the stock air filter box with a performance (K&N) cone filter. The filter would need to be completely enclosed in a carbonfiber or plastic enclosure that has a dropout w/ drain hole to collect any debris and/or water that might get picked up by the intake. And finally, attached to this enclosure would be a 3" hose routed to an intake hole in preferably the area of the headlight or an intake duct on the side of the fender. At the very least, but not preferably as you will pick up too much debris and/or water, you could run it to the fog light area.

This is an ideal setup that would give you the most performance. But, it would probably be expensive. And I'm not looking for expensive.

Plus, it's not what I am interested in! What I am interested in and enjoy is, taking a stock intake system and modifying it to its max potential for very little cost.


Looks like PSC had a very similar idea. Anyone seen these?

http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au/engine/carbon%20fibre%20cold%20air%20intakes.htm

I think Hot E GT1 is on the right track! Keep up the good work!

PSC's design is really good. I like it!!! But, I don't know if they make one for the Elantra/Avanti XD. Plus, it is way to expensive for me and I didn't design it!


Sorry! FordFasteRR I don't have any pics of the resonator to air filter box connecting tube. I will try and get some. My connecting tube is the stock item.

[Bnystrom]

I don't understand all the hoopla about the small resonator on the elbow. If you look inside, the hole leading to the resonator chamber is quite small and should have a minimal effect on turbulence. Regardless, there was no need to cut so much of the elbow away. If you want to get rid of the resonator, cut it, not the elbow. Ultimately, you'll end up with nothing left of the resonator but the small hole that's easy to cover.

[mtlelantra]

I don't understand all the hoopla about the small resonator on the elbow. If you look inside, the hole leading to the resonator chamber is quite small and should have a minimal effect on turbulence. Regardless, there was no need to cut so much of the elbow away. If you want to get rid of the resonator, cut it, not the elbow. Ultimately, you'll end up with nothing left of the resonator but the small hole that's easy to cover.
Not to steal your thunder Hot E, but from reading the original post, I think he did just cut off the resonator, not the whoe elbow. He then covered the hole left behind with a piece of plastic, and wrapped to whole thing up to keep it nicely sealed. I'm down with it... :cool:

[Bnystrom]

Not to steal your thunder Hot E, but from reading the original post, I think he did just cut off the resonator, not the whoe elbow. He then covered the hole left behind with a piece of plastic, and wrapped to whole thing up to keep it nicely sealed. I'm down with it... :cool:
Perhaps so, but it looks like the piece of plastic under the tape is about the size of the original resonator. Considering the size of the wrapped area, it looks like he took out a big section of the elbow, but I could be wrong. The entrance hole for the resonator could be covered by a patch the size of a quarter.

[Hot E GT1]

Perhaps so, but it looks like the piece of plastic under the tape is about the size of the original resonator. Considering the size of the wrapped area, it looks like he took out a big section of the elbow, but I could be wrong. The entrance hole for the resonator could be covered by a patch the size of a quarter.

What is the big deal with this stupid MAF sensor to throttle body tube/resonator and wrap? Give it up!!! It's boring and a waste of time!

I now know that I really did not need to remove this resonator, as it did not make any difference in performance. But, if I hadn't, how would I have known it wouldn't have made a difference. Sometimes you just have to try things out to determine what the outcome will be!

The definition of stupidity is: Doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results.

Thank you mtlelantra, for trying to set things straight. Some people like to dwell on unimportant issues! As you can see!

Bnystrom, lets set things straight once and for all! No! I did not cut off anything more than the resonator. Yes, the hole left after cutting off the resonator is slightly larger than a quarter. A Canadian quarter that is! A Canadian quarter is approximately 1" in diameter. The piece of plastic used to cover the hole exceeds the diameter of the hole by 1/2" on either side. Making the total area of the piece of plastic used to cover the hole 2" squared. The wrapable area of the tube has an inside length of 3" and an outside length of 6". The hole is on the outside length area of the tube. This means that if a 2" squared piece of plastic is placed centered over the 1" diameter hole, the remaining length on tube on the outside not covered would be 4" Now, when you wrap an item such as this, you want to exceed the edges of the piece of plastic by about an inch, to insure a good seal. You are now left with a 2" area that would not be covered by the piece of plastic or wrap. And this is why it may look like more of the tube was cut away than just the resonator. If you still don't believe me, try it for yourself and let me know what your results are.

[Bnystrom]

If you still don't believe me, try it for yourself and let me know what your results are.
I never said that I didn't believe you, since you didn't chime in with an explanation until now. My assumption that you cut away more than is was necessary was evidently wrong. OK?

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

I removed the stock fender resonator box to air filter box tube (the one that has two 90 degree elbow and is suppose to be so restrictive) to determine just how restrictive it really is. So, I took some measurements and here's what I discovered. Although the two 90 degree elbows definitely don't help with a smooth airflow. The diameter of the tube isn't really as restrictive as you might think. Now, my measurements definitely are not exact, but they're probably not that far off either. The large air filter box end, although not perfectly round, has a circumference of 12.25", which equal a diameter of 3.9". The fender resonator box end, again not perfectly round, has a circumference of 10", which equals a diameter of 3.18". And the middle section of the tube, which looks like the most restrictive part, has a circumference of 10.75", which equals a diameter of 3.42". That means that the overall diameter of the tube is somewhere around 3.5". So, I would conclude; If you are looking at replacing this tube, a tube with a diameter of less than 3.5", although would flow smoother do to the elimination of the two 90 degree elbows, would be more restrictive. And a tube less than 3" would be chocking the air. Because of this new info, I am now trying to figure out a way of replacing this tube with a 3.5" to 4" tube.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_47_full.jpg


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_48_full.jpg

[KeWLKaT]

Why don't you just remove it completely?

Anyhow, I find this info very precise, I like the fact that you are putting in this much time for it.

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

If I remove it completly, than I will no longer have a ram air system. And, even worse, I will be sucking in warm air from the engine bay.

[XDGT03]

Ideally you would want it to taper smoothly from say your 3.5" diamter to the exact diameter of the tb. This will increase volocity at the tb. Admittedly, that kinda goes out the window when the air smacks into the tb plate, rod, et al. But, it is better than not having it.

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

I took some more measurements over the weekend. Here's what I got. The outlet side of the air filter box has a 2.875" inside diameter opening. Than there is a 3" - 2.75" coupler. Next, the MAF sensor is 2.75" in diameter. Each end of the MAF to TB tube is 2.75" diameter with the inside diameter of the tube being 2.5". Finally, the TB has an inside diameter of 2.5".


MAF to TB Tube
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_57_full.jpg

MAF End
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_50_full.jpg

TB End
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_58_full.jpg

MAF Sensor
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_52_full.jpg

TB
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/663000-663999/663133_56_full.jpg

So, I guess I need to reconsider my previous statement.

Originally Posted by Hot E GT1
So, I would conclude; If you are looking at replacing this tube, a tube with a diameter of less than 3.5", although would flow smoother do to the elimination of the two 90 degree elbows, would be more restrictive. And a tube less than 3" would be chocking the air.

With the TB being 2.5", you could probably get away with an intake system as small as 2.5" in diameter. But, I don't recommend it.

Originally Posted by XDGT03
Ideally you would want it to taper smoothly from say your 3.5" diamter to the exact diameter of the tb. This will increase volocity at the tb. Admittedly, that kinda goes out the window when the air smacks into the tb plate, rod, et al. But, it is better than not having it.

XDGT03 has the right idea. And the stock system seems do a half decent job of it.

So, this is what I have figured out. The air source opening is 3.18" in diameter. This increases in size, through the fender resonator to air filter box tube, to 3.9". This creates a slight divergent duct. A divergent duct decreases velocity, but increases pressure. The air filter box opening is 2.875" in diameter. This decreases in size, through the air filter box to MAF sensor coupling, the MAF sensor, and the MAF sensor to TB tube, to 2.5". This creates a slightly convergent duct. Increasing velocity but, decreasing pressure. It's starting to look like the stock intake isn't as poorly designed as I first thought.

With the removal of the stock fender resonator box and the installation of a modded fender resonator box, you can create a ram air intake that is divergent to the air filter box and convergent from the air filter box to the throttle body.

The benefits of this design are: The divergent shape of the air path from air source to the air filter box decreases the velocity of the air as it enters the air filter box, but increases the pressure. This creates a higher air pressure on the inlet side of the filter than the outlet side. Thus, giving the filter lots of air to suck up. As this air leaves the air filter box, the convergent shape of the air path, increases the velocity and decreases pressure. Creating less positive pressure air at the throttle body. Air always flows from positive to negative. Thus, forcing air into the intake manifold. Of course this only happens when the TB's butterfly plate is open.

Pressure, Velocity and Temperature
When air moves through a straight pipe or passage, the pressure, velocity and temperature will remain constant.

When air moves through a pipe or passage with a decreasing area (a convergent duct) the velocity of the air will increase but the pressure and temperature of the air will decrease.

When air moves through a pipe or passage with an increasing area (a divergent duct) the velocity of the air will decrease but the pressure and temperature of the air will increase.

Divergent Duct
http://www.aoxj32.dsl.pipex.com/Graphics/DuctDiv1.gif

Convergent Duct
http://www.aoxj32.dsl.pipex.com/Graphics/DuctCon.gif

My point being! What was my point! I'm not really sure anymore. Oh, wait a minute; I think I remembered it again. Nope! That wasn't it. Ah! Maybe this is it! The only real problem with the stock intake system is the fender resonator box and the fact that the ducts used in the system do not flow very smoothly. Get rid of the fender resonator box. Replace it with a ram air box. Replace the ducts with ones the same size but flow a lot better. And you got yourself a really good intake system. Maybe that will be my next project. As it seems I have maxed out the potential of the stock system.

I think I might look at what is the area difference between a cone filter and a replacement performance panel filter. Which one, for our application, actually flows better?

[FordFasteRR]

the cone filter will flow better.

but it has to be a good one, not a tiny little small crappy one from the autostore...

[XDGT03]

I'm gonna say cone for flow. There are basically 2 different designs for the cone filter. One with an inlet in the center of the cone and those which don't have it. This increases the surface area. Then you have the differnt sizes. The panal filter is pretty smallish on our car but I bet it has more filtering area than most cone filters.

Air flows through the path of least resistance. A cone filter is designed to have a more even path for the air to flow. In the filter box, the air is being drawn from a certain point in that box. The air is going to flow through the panal filter at a point nearest to the intake. As the filter media becomes contaminated the air will be drawn from further out on the panal. When you change a panal filter on any car, you see far more contamination nearest the inlet. This is not an efficient system.

There are more things to consider than just the free flowing of air. Some resistance in the system is good.

[Bnystrom]

...with that huge hole in the bottom of the intake, since it's going to prevent any pressure increase from occuring.

[Hot E GT1]

Hallo!

I'm gonna say cone for flow. There are basically 2 different designs for the cone filter. One with an inlet in the center of the cone and those which don't have it. This increases the surface area. Then you have the differnt sizes. The panal filter is pretty smallish on our car but I bet it has more filtering area than most cone filters.

Air flows through the path of least resistance. A cone filter is designed to have a more even path for the air to flow. In the filter box, the air is being drawn from a certain point in that box. The air is going to flow through the panal filter at a point nearest to the intake. As the filter media becomes contaminated the air will be drawn from further out on the panal. When you change a panal filter on any car, you see far more contamination nearest the inlet. This is not an efficient system.

There are more things to consider than just the free flowing of air. Some resistance in the system is good.
Good point! I agree!


...with that huge hole in the bottom of the intake, since it's going to prevent any pressure increase from occuring.

Pressure increase or decrease is not dependent on whether there is a "... huge hole in the bottom of the intake...” or one end of the duct. But, rather the increasing (divergent) or decreasing (convergent) in the size of the duct along its length. The "...huge hole in the bottom of the intake..." provides the opening in the intake system for input air.

Example: The duct (tube) being used for this example measures 24" in length, has a 1" diameter opening at one end and a 4" diameter opening at the other. As input air moves through the duct from the small end to the large end (a divergent duct) the velocity of the input air will decrease but the pressure and temperature of that air will increase as it exits the duct. Now, if the input air moves through the duct from the large end to the small end (a convergent duct) the velocity of the input air will increase but the pressure and temperature of that air will decrease as it exits the duct.

Of course, the longer the duct and the bigger the difference in diameter of the two ends, the bigger the differences in velocity, pressure and temperature there will be between the input air and the output air.

In the case of the Elantra's stock intake, although it is designed as a divergent/convergent system, there is not going to be any big changes to the velocity, pressure or temperature of the air as it travels from intake opening to intake manifold.

[Bnystrom]

Pressure increase or decrease is not dependent on whether there is a "... huge hole in the bottom of the intake...” or one end of the duct. But, rather the increasing (divergent) or decreasing (convergent) in the size of the duct along its length. The "...huge hole in the bottom of the intake..." provides the opening in the intake system for input air.

You missed the point. I understand about divergent/convergent airflow, but that's not what I'm talking about. You claim that you're getting "ram air" because you have the opening in the intake box facing forward. "Ram air" is what happens when you have an intake duct in the airflow. Air is forced into the duct as the speed of the vehicle increases, reducing manifold vacuum and improving cylinder filling. However, it's dependent on having a duct/scoop that will create pressure at the inlet (or at least reduce the vacuum that's present). That's not going to happen with the scoop setup you have because you have a huge hole in the bottom that provides an easy means of escape for inrushing air, negating the ability to create any significant positive pressure at the inlet. Depending on the air flow under the box, it's even possible that air will be drawn away from the inlet at speed, but there's no easy way to determine that.

As for the rest of the system, probably the best thing you can do is to keep the internal airflow as smooth as possible. You can drive yourself nuts puzzling over convergent/divergent airflows, but without any precise means of simulating or testing it, the likelihood of designing an intake that actually makes use of it in a meaningful way is pretty low. That's why companies that do real engineering on intakes get big bucks for their product. It's not a simple task. It's good to understand these things, nonetheless and I commend you on your diligence.

[Atomic]

So, what if you attach a scoop to the huge hole at the bottom, something that opens just below the bumper facing forward. I'm not pretending to understand any of this, but would you get a dual-ram air effect and prevent most air from exiting through the bottom, but still providing an exit for debris?

[Bnystrom]

So, what if you attach a scoop to the huge hole at the bottom, something that opens just below the bumper facing forward. I'm not pretending to understand any of this, but would you get a dual-ram air effect and prevent most air from exiting through the bottom, but still providing an exit for debris?
No, you probably wouldn't. If there's any pressure variation between one intake duct and the other, air will just flow in one and out the other. It's always going to follow the path of least resistance.