XD designed for Hubcentric wheels

[kylemorg]

I just wanted to clear something up that seems to come up repeatedly.

If you get aftermarket rims, almost all of them will have an oversized centerbore so that they'll fit the car with biggest hub that can use that rim. You definitely should either get hub-centric rims or stronger wheel studs for your aftermarket rims.

The reasons are:

1. The wheel may be slightly off center if the lugs aren't torqued evenly
2. The XD is designed to use hub-centric wheels so that the flange on the hub supports the weight of the car, not the lug studs.

The XD lug studs were never designed to hold the entire weight of the car, and in excessive load conditions or when you hit a pothole, they may break off. If all of them break (as happened to a friend of mine a few years back), your wheel can fall off!!!

So, if you're running around with aftermarket rims and aren't using either stronger lug studs or hubcentric rings, you're risking loosing a wheel and perhaps wrecking your car, not to mention possibly damaging someone else's car / person / property. Aluminum hubcentric adapters cost ~$10-$25 and are a worthwhile investment.

[southpawboston]

good info, thanks!

[stevieegls04]

could you guys tell us where to find them or where to get these.

i think this would help the people alot also.

probably ebay, auto shop.

which ones to take also? diameter..? plastic, steel??

thx

ps: this question is for every one, that may need that info

[SuperGLS]

Good post. For more info see this (http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4576) post.

[A&F 01 GLS]

Thank You!!!

[mrhoaf]

the place you bought the wheels from should have them available... if you haven't bought wheels yet, make sure you ask about them when you order!

[fljohnboy]

I just bought some off Ebay a couple weeks ago. Was like $15.

[XDGT03]

Hmm. The OEM wheels don't actually rest on the spindles. There is enough gap so that you can slip the wheel on and off easily. Of course there is some corrosion that builds up because of the dissimilar metals but if they held up the weight of the car in a meaningful way they would have to be a pressed fit. Think about it. If the wheel shifted the 1/32" of space around the hub, by the time that is translated to the outside of the tire it would shake badly.

As for balancing, there are 2 basic ways of doing it. You can do it from the hub which balances the wheel to it's center, or you can balance them through by the holes for the wheel studs. This balances it to the way it will sit on the rotor. This way you do not need the rings as a guide which is basically all they are.

I have had 2 sets of rims that by your theory would need hub centric rings. I have not used them on either. Both sets of wheels were balanced by the wheel stud holes. I have autocrossed for 1.5 seasons now in sts and have not had any issue with stress on the studs (yet). I have 34k miles on my car and most of those are with very agressive driving.

It is very important to tighten the lugs to the proper tq recommendation (85ftlbs).

[kylemorg]

www.discounttiredirect.com is where I got my aluminum hub centric rings from for my ADR wheels.

Think about it -- when you're putting your wheels on or off, there's no force pressing up on them. There's some flex in the wheel studs, especially under hard loading, so the rim not necessarily touching the hub doesn't mean a whole lot. Plus, the metal expands with heat a little bit, so you need some "slop" in the tolerances.

As for the "It hasn't happened to me yet" comments... it's like wearing your seatbelt -- it's not the many times that nothing bad happened that matter, it's the one time something does happen! I heard someone in another forum use the analogy "If you drove around with a case of dynamite in the bed of your truck for two years and nothing bad happened, would you think that's safe, too?" and I like it!

Hubcentric rings are cheap and easy to use; why risk having problems? If you don't want to use hubcentric rings with your wheels for some reason, then at least get "racing" wheel studs that are tougher than the factory ones. Don't mess with your safety and everyone elses just to save a few bucks.

Whatever you do, you might want to use "anti-sieze" grease on your hubs and the face of your brake rotors to keep the wheel from anodizing to the hub. That happened with one of my factory rims within 15K miles and I couldn't get the wheel off.

[XDGT03]

If i were going to road race I probably woud get the hardened studs but for autocross, I don't think it is really necessary. If I break one I will let you know. I seems to me it is kind of like saying you need to have the steel endlinks for the rear tib swaybar. Why? Just because it makes you feel better? I have proven that is a waste of money. A 4 point racing harness is safer than the 3 but I don't see people going out and getting those for everyday use. I think comparing hub rings and hardened wheel studs to dynamite is a bit over the top as an example.

FIY on the anti-sieze grease. I don't recommend for anyone to do this. Those parts are supposed to sit flat against each other. Any type of grease will create a barrier to the wheel and rotor seating tight. If you want to use something, use wd-40 or other similar spray. It will soak into the metal. Rotating your tires regularly will also help prevent galvanic corrosion with dissimilar metals.

Finally, it is not about saving a few bucks to me. I have spent a lot of money on my car for all kinds of mods. I don't choose not to do things because it might cost me $50. I look at all sides of the issue and base my decision on what seems best and/or necessary. 34k miles of hard driving, 1.5 years autocrossing, and open dicussions about what works and what doesn't work has so far proven that my choices work.

[Steve]

I wonder what a professional opinion on this is. I have always been under the impression that the intention was for the wheel to be seated on the hub and the studs were to hold the wheel onto the spindle assembly. But that's how misconceptions spread, everyone touting their opinions based on impressions of ideas of just enough information to be dangerous.

[Gman]

This is a huge debate over some little under $20 parts.

All I know is my aftermarket rims have so much play in them (center is so large) that I could not get them to seat properly without the rings,they vibrated like crazy till I got a set. I'm not saying you have to have them, my other set of winter rims don't and I can get them to center fine, but why take the chance, it is such a cheap and usually free with purchase of rims item why not use them.

[XDGT03]

Part of the reason I do not have them is because Discount Tire (the one I go to has some pretty smart guys there. Not all do) said that they are not necessary. If they are balanced by the stud holes and you take more but small, insignificant amount of time when installing your tires you will have no problem. Meaning cross tightening in smaller incriments. That is one "professionals" opinion. But you know what opinions are like..........lol

I do agree that the cost is insignificant and if it makes it easier, or makes someone feel more comfortable then by all means go for it. It is just that they are not necessary as stated in the first post.

[BlackElantraGT]

Part of the reason I do not have them is because Discount Tire (the one I go to has some pretty smart guys there. Not all do) said that they are not necessary. If they are balanced by the stud holes and you take more but small, insignificant amount of time when installing your tires you will have no problem. Meaning cross tightening in smaller incriments. That is one "professionals" opinion. But you know what opinions are like..........lol

Ido agree that the cost is insignificant and if it makes it easier, or makes someone feel more comfortable then by all means go for it. It is just that they are not necessary as stated in the first thread.

I see your point but at the same time, all those guys at tire shops are low wage workers that usually aren't too bright. I've yet to see one shop that properly tightens the lugs on my wheels.

[tuner]

all those guys at tire shops are low wage workers that usually aren't too bright. .
Im sure all the people that work in tire shops and shops in general really appreciate that one

[BlackElantraGT]

Im sure all the people that work in tire shops and shops in general really appreciate that one

There's a difference between Auto techs working at dealerships vs the guy that mounts and installs tires/wheels all day long. You can teach any idiot to do the latter and pay him low/moderate wages.

I'm not trying to offend anyone, just stating the truth.

If someone works at McDonald's and they're tired of customers treating them like **** and looking down on them, then it's up to that person to better themself and move on up in this world. It's not my fault they're working there.

[A&F 01 GLS]

Whatever you do, you might want to use "anti-sieze" grease on your hubs and the face of your brake rotors to keep the wheel from anodizing to the hub. That happened with one of my factory rims within 15K miles and I couldn't get the wheel off.



I second this...mine did too... Put anti-sieze on the rim AND the drum or where ur rim touches the shaft... Rubber Mallets work wonders tho if you don't