Hyundai Elantra Forum banner

car wont get up and go!

5K views 13 replies 11 participants last post by  Soron 
#1 · (Edited)
My 2001 GLS seems to be having trouble with accelerating. The first problem occurs only in the mornings, or after I leave my car sitting in a parking lot for an extended period of time. It starts up fine, but when I put it in drive and press the gas, I get nothing. The RPMs go down, and it seems like it's trying hard to keep the engine running. After a couple of seconds the car will start to accelerate suddenly and RPMs will go back to normal. This has been happening for quite awhile-- the problem occurs on and off, not every single day, but has been happening for at least 3 months.

The second problem is just general accelerating, expecially on the highway. Normal road driving accel is fine, but getting up to highway speed (60 or 65), or accelerating while traveling at highway speed (60) usually requires pushing the pedal to the floor. While going about 60 on the highway, I press the gas to speed up and it usually has to downshift a couple times to get anywhere. I almost never use air conditioning in my car, so that's not slowing it down. Last time I used the AC though, I was so frustrated with the lack of pickup that I had to shut it off and put up with the heat. This problem I've noticed since about the 1st of the month.
 
#3 ·
I just run some throttle plate cleaner through my 02 with 46k miles. I was really surprised at how much smoother low end part throttle accelaration has become. I just kinda got used to the surges.

You didn't say how many miles were on your car. If you're getting close to 60k you definately need to change your plugs.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Yeah, definitely fuel injector cleaner. It could be that you got a bad tank of gas with a lot of sediment in it, so I'd venture to say that if that doesn't help, change your fuel filter next.

It could be spark plugs and wires, but I'd check the fuel system, first.

There's also a TSB for an ECU reflash for a cold starting problem; why not start with the dealer and see if it needs the ECU updated?
 
#6 ·
And if routine maintenance doesn't satisfy your need for speed you can get a CAI, and a cat-back! Sounds like your issue is spark plugs and fuel delivery if the car is surging and sputtering like that though. Keep us posted...
 
#7 ·
my car has the same problem where it sometimes hesitates when you hit the gas in the morning just after starting it up ...

even if i let it warm up to normal temps, it will do it once in a while...

its almost like the ecu does not register the tps sensor is moving ... could be a bad tps sensor but ... since it only happens once in a while, I have not persued it.

I know that this problem (in my case) is not a result of plus/wires/or any other mod on the car... it did this from day 1 when it was brand new + I always have new plugs & wires & all maintenance is done every 2000 miles on my car...

:)
 
#8 ·
Maybe a loose connection at the TPS? One of those temperature, humidity, angle specific things that drive the service techs crazy because it is impossible to replicate in a controlled enviornment. Sounds like my old Dodge that mis-fired on number seven cyl the entire time I owned it. Would a code reader show something like this going on or would you have to get a CEL first?
 
#9 ·
I get the same thing after I first start the car in the morning, or when it's time to go home. I always just consider it normal cold engine behavior. But, Ford you said it still happens to you if you let it warm up? Mine is only hesitant during the first acceleration, after that it's normal.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Gun5 said:
run some fuel cleaners..... and change oil? maybe fitler to?
I bought a Fuel system cleaner last night as well as a new air filter.. maybe that will help.. It's only been 1400 miles since my last oil change, so I think i'm cool there.

BobMs_wht2k2 said:
You didn't say how many miles were on your car. If you're getting close to 60k you definately need to change your plugs.
I have about 72000 miles on my car-- I'll make an appointment at the dealership if I still have that problem next week. Is it expensive to replace the plugs?

kylemorg said:
There's also a TSB for an ECU reflash for a cold starting problem; why not start with the dealer and see if it needs the ECU updated?
Sorry, but I'm not familiar with TSB, ECU Reflash... what does all that mean? :confused:

I just got a coupon in the mail for 10% off my 60,000 mile service, so I called up the dealership, and it would be like $400 to get that serviced. I asked how much it would cost for just spark plugs, and he said about $80 Labor, and about $10 for each plug. Would it be difficult to change them myself? If not, would it be worth it to have that service done or have the plugs replaced by the dealer?

The dealer also suggested having my timing belt replaced, which would be an extra $300. Is it really necessary to have it replaced?
 
#13 ·
How `handy` are you? whip the engine cover off ( the plastic black and silver thing on top of your engine , 4 bolts - 1 each corner ) then you`ll see the spark plug caps, start from the passenger side, remove one cap, undo to spark plug with the correct socket, if you dont have one in a socket set, buy a dedicated spark plug tool from an auto parts store. Very VERY carefully thread the new plug into the plug hole, if it is tight to turn pull it out and start again, avoid cross threading at all costs, tighten till it stops with light pressure on the spark plug tool, then go about three quarters of a turn tighter. If you remove one spark plug cap at a time and remove the old plug and replace with a new one, one at a time, you can`t go wrong, if you pull all the plug caps off and jumble them on refitting, your car will run like a pig on stilts.
 
#14 ·
Personally I would just do the 60k maint, brakemax did mine for $600 and here's what was included:

-timing belt
-fuel injection decarbonization service
-spark plugs
-oil change and filter
-air filter
-coolent change
-transmission fluid change
-battery service

if I had a chilton or haynes manual available for this car I would have done most of this myself, or it could be the fact that 110 degree temps here kinda persuades me not to do it myself lol! As for the timing belt I hear it is supposed to last 100k but it has to be changed at 60k to keep the warrenty in effect.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top