I had the embarrasing power steering squeal this morning. After reading through some threads here I've decided my accessory belts need to be tightened. How do I tighten them down? Should there be any slack in the belts at all, or should they be super tight?
I just had my timing/accessory belts done 6 weeks ago, so my belts should be good.
power steering...there is a 14mm bolt untop and another one on the bottom of the pump. loosen them until the pump can move...pull it toward you and tighten the top bolt while pulling on the pump...i believe its supposed to have 5mm of defelction. wich means if you press down on the belt it will go 5mm (IIRC)
altenator/water pump belt (and more then likely the one squealing) loosen the 12mm bolt on the bracket just above the alt....there will be another long bolt that sits perpendicular to that bolt and will screw into the block (this block is the one that the 12mm bolt holds down.) you have to turn it (i forget which way) a couple of turns and check the deflection same as the power steereing.
the ac is the same...but you have to remove the wheel and cover for easy access...you can do it from the top if you long arms....a 14mm bolt on the bracket is loose and then there is a12mm bolt again perpendicular to it facing the rear of the car....turn that one and tighten it up.
My power steering belt has been squeeling the past few days on cold starts then it goes away once i start to drive. Its been really cold and rainy iam guessing thats why
By chance are you guys using stock belts? I have bando brand belts, and even when I had 88k on my stock ones, they didnt squeal like this. I dont know if I should go back to stock or if there's even a difference?
I have always ran Gates belts, and never had any problems. One of your belts is probably just a little loose. Check the alternator one like Only1db said.
altight, i did it, but i cant seem to get the long 12mm bolt to get back to it's original position (the bolt is a little rusted everywhere execept where its been covered the last 88k) The coolant reservior is in the way (prob why the mechanic didnt tighten it down completely in the first place). Does the top of the bolt need to be tightened down completely?
you can take the fan out (two ten mm bolts on the top and then pull it out) and then you can remove the resivoir if you want...two 10 mm bolts on the subframe all the way at the bottom....but if you have a 12mm wrench you can get in there with out taking any of that stuff off/out.
just keep turning clockwise till its tighter. and push down on the belt...it should have the correct deflection.
This is one of the things Hyundai could have done better. Most car makers use a nice wide all in one belt. More surface area make best work better and last longer Hyundai, in 2001, still used small narrow belts like most car makers used in the past. :thumbsdow
It's a 4 rib belt that only goes across two pulleys, really not that big a deal as far as wear goes. Belts get replaced primarily due to age aside from the occasional belt tensioners (which would be on serpentine belts, not the indivdual accessory belts like we have) so your argument is invalid. I also personally perfer to have indivdual belts since this way if you happen to lose your p/s belt you're still good to go because your alternator and water pump will still be driven vs if you had a "all in one belt" that decided to break or the tensioner let go and you're now on the side of the road because you have NOTHING.
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