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30,000 mile Hyundai Service

20K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  hyunelan2 
#1 ·
I'm 29,000 and my dealer sent me a letter saying that I'm due for my service.

Is it worth it? Has anyone else had their car serviced? Were you pleased? Do they do things I could just do myself? How much did they charge you?

I've only gone to my dealer for the reflash and they didn't even know what it was. I had to give them the printout from hma.com so they could perform the service.

When I was there they asked if they could change my oil. I said "No, thank you. I change it myself" and the woman just gives me this look. She made me feel like I was wrong for doing it myself. And then when they were done the guy left my seat pushed back all the way and the back was down more than half-way. Was he driving laying down when he driving?
 
#2 ·
30,000 is crucial for the warrenty aspect of the car. If you don't take it to the dealer, keep your receipts. Check your owners service manual for details on what is performed. I had my 30K done in October at the dealer. The total was $313.35 - which is good for dealer price I hear.
 
#3 ·
So according to the Maintenance Log at 30,000 they do the following:

1) Change engine oil and filter - Not Necessary
2) Inspect Fuel Lines, Fuel Hoses and Connections, Insulator of Fuel Injector, Inspect Vapor Hose and Fuel Filler Cap
3) Replace Air Cleaner Filter - Not Necessary
4) "In Case of Severe Usage" - Replace Spark Plugs - Not Necessary
5) Inspect the Drive Belt
6) Replace Engine Coolant - Would Be Nice
7) Inspect Timing Belt, Manual Transaxle Oil, the entirety of the Braking System, Exhaust System, Suspension, Steering, Linkage, Driveshaft and Air Conditioning.

I don't foresee them replacing much. I think they're just gonna "look" at my car a lot, and that's just fine, it'll make me feel all warm inside.

Hyunelan2, did they find anything/replace anything that warranted the $300.00 charge or was that just the cost of the fluids and stuff they replaced?
 
#4 · (Edited)
i agree with Gomez, their services mostly only contain of "looking" and some more "looking". The stuff they actually replace is nowhere close to being worth $300. So id just do whatever u can by urself, keep reciepts, and then if the dealer is reasonable show up for the service, but tell him that u done most of the stuff. Idk if thats possible tho as my dealer experience has been pretty bad so far, but i guess it depends on the dealership. Last time i went for service they caused more damage than good. anyways, good luck. :) :)
 
#6 · (Edited)
The price I paid was their flat rate for 30,000 service on all hyundais. They did drain and flush the coolant, plus all the other normal fluid changes and inspections. I mainly do all my service at the dealer to prevent any warrenty disputes in the future. I've personally witnessed the dealer hassle people who have had their service done elsewhere, and then made a warrenty claim. I know I could save money, but saving hassle/time is more important to me than saving some cash... but that's just me.
 
#7 ·
hyunelan2 said:
The price I paid was their flat rate for 30,000 service on all hyundais. They did drain and flush the coolant, plus all the other normal fluid changes and inspections. I mainly do all my service at the dealer to prevent any warrenty disputes in the future. I've personally witnessed the dealer hassle people who have had their service done elsewhere, and then made a warrenty claim. I know I could save money, but saving hassle/time is more important to me than saving some cash... but that's just me.
thanks for your experience/advice. I definitely agree with you in that taking it in for service will ensure easy warranty work in the future. Depending on the price they quote me will determine whether I take it in or not.
 
#8 ·
8-O i'm 300miles overdue for the 30K checkup and just called the dealership to set up the time to do it. they said it's a 4.5 hour job and they do transmission and coolant fush, clean TB and intake, oil changed, retorque chasi bolts, check the brake system and more. all that for the ungodly price of $399 + tax. i am rather tempted to go elsewhere.
 
#9 ·
wow, back from the dead - but good job bringing this one up rather than making a new one.

How close into the 'city' is the dealer you're going to? I know around here, the closer you get to the Chicago Metro area, the higher the prices typically go. Is there another dealer you can get a price quote from? $399 is about 20% more than I paid for the overly-expensive 30K. You may find a slightly better price, but I'd still expect any dealer to charge you at least $300.
 
#10 ·
Given that I saved so much $$ by buying a Hyundai instead of a Honda or Toyota, paying the dealership to maintain the warranty every 30,000 miles never pained me that bad. I was pretty strict with having them do what was in the book though -- nothing less, nothing more (except where it was obviously needed.) I'm pretty sure that my 30,000mi was in the neighborhood of $300 as well.
 
#11 · (Edited)
IIRC the 30k transmission service is only for automatics... the manual trans fluid change at 60k. That knocks a bunch off the top if you don't need it.


Here's the HyundaiUSA official guide
Emission Control Items

Replace

- AIR CLEANER FILTER

If necessary

- FUEL LINES, FUEL HOSES AND CONNECTIONS
- INSULATOR OF FUEL INJECTOR(2.0L SULEV ONLY)
- VAPOR HOSE AND FUEL FILLER CAP


General Items

Replace

- COOLANT

If necessary

- DRIVE BELT (WATER PUMP, ALTERNATOR AND A/CON)
- TIMING BELT
- MANUAL TRANSXLE OIL
- AUTOMATIC TRANSXLE FLUID
- BRAKE FLUID
- BRAKE HOSES AND LINE
- REAR BRAKE DRUMS/LININGS, PARKING BRAKE
- BRAKE PADS, CALIPERS AND ROTORS
- EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER
- SUSPENSION MOUNTING BOLTS
- STEERING GEAR BOX, LINKAGE AND BOOTS/LOWER ARM BALL JOINT
- POWER STEERING PUMP, BELT AND HOSES
- DRIVESHAFTS AND BOOTS
- AIR CONDITIONING REFRIGERANT


Note

- ENGINE OIL AND FILTER: REPLACE EVERY 7,500 MILES (12,000 KM) OR 12 MONTHS.
- INSULATOR OF FUEL INJECTOR (2.0L SULEV ONLY): IN CASE OF REMOVING
INJECTOR FOR INSPECTION, IFAN INJECTOR IS REMOVED FOR INSPECTION THE INSULATOR AND O-RING OF THE INJECTOR SHOULD BE REPLACED WITH NEW PARTS.
- SPARK PLUGS - IRIDIUMCOATED: REPLACE EVERY 100,000 MILES (160,000 KM) OR 10 YEARS.
- SPARK PLUG CABLES: INSPECT EVERY 60,000 MILES (96,000 KM) OR 5 YEARS AND REPLACE IF NECESSARY.
- CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET (20L SULEV Only): AFTER 105,000 MILES (168,000 KM) OR
84 MONTHS, INSPECT EVERY 15,000 MILES (24,000 KM) .OR 12 MONTHS.
- OIL PAN LIQUID GASKET (20L SULEV Only): AFTER 105,000 MILES (168,000 KM) OR
84 MONTHS, INSPECT EVERY 15,000 MILES (24,000 KM) .OR 12 MONTHS.
- AIR CONDITIONER FILTER (IN FRONT CF BLOWER UNIT): FOR EVERY 12 MONTHS OR 12,000 MILES (20,000 KM)
- THERMOSTAT: AFTER 105,000 MILES (168,000 KM) OR 84 MONTHS, INSPECT EVERY 15,000 MILES (24,000 KM) .OR 12 MONTHS.

and the extra notes

Replace

- ENGINE OIL AND FILTER(Every 3,000 miles (4,800 KM) or 3 Months)
- MANUAL TRANSAXLE OIL (Every 60,000 Miles (96,000 KM))
- AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (Every 30,000 Miles (48,000 KM))



Brad
 
#12 · (Edited)
that dealership is about 5 miles from the city. but it's on the way to work. i called another one that's almost 10 miles out and not on the way to work at all. they quoted me $219.95 with relatively same list of things that will be done. no loaner program :( so i guess i'm taking a day off and going with the way cheaper service.

hyunelan2: i've been around long enough to search first. plus i've seen this thread when it was first posted so i knew it was discussed before
 
#13 ·
Pitching in $0.02 because I had this done a month ago -

I looked at the list of stuff to be done, and ended up taking it in for a coolant flush ($90) and general inspection (me: how much to inspect everything related to 30k warranty service? them: free. me: w00t!). Everything else was too easy for me to justify paying a dealer to do it.

For what it's worth, however, I just replaced the stock plugs - at 32,800mi - and stockies were in HORRIBLE NASTY TERRIBLE condition. The electrode tip was like the size of a needle and had worn an extra millimeter or so from stock gap. nasty. Runs hella smoother now. Don't pay a dealer to do it; buy plugs at two bucks each, buy a torque wrench at twenty bucks, buy a spark plug socket (think they are 5/8" or 16mm), and DIY for half of dealer cost.
 
#14 ·
Wow, I think I'd burn a vacation/personal day to save $180 as well. Amazing how the same thing can fluctuate so much in price.
 
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