yeah i painted the safety bar and am gonna do the rest of the inside when the shipment comes, the thing about liquid the deadner is that it takes 36hrs to dry to where the upholstry can be put back on but then 30 days before it fully cures and you can throw deadner on top of it
exactly what i imagined it should look like, large pieces with only cuts for the needed stuff... thats exactly how im doing my door. except im gonna try to mold that **** into all the curves off the door, so there isnt a bunch of air pockets.
it doesn't look like the dynamat is on the metal in indkerzas pic, did you use a roller or was that a top layer? If you have air bubbles you can slice them w/ your blade then roll over them.
we've had this dicussion before about indkezra deading, its clearly photoshopped...
it isn't... actually. at least not the entire thing.
so does it look like that now?
if so, what did you do about all the door hardware and massive holes?
its how it is, he said he only shooped the top left n right corners, the rest is as is present in the pic.
doesnt answer the question as to what he did with the door hardware or the large holes. more than 1/3rd of it is photoshop, kinda hard to tell whats going on in that pic.
wat do u mean wat he did with the holes... he covered them with the dynamat... just like in the picture... and looks to me like all the hard ware is present...
window switches, check.
door handle, check.
door light, check.
what else is there?
ok pete, you're missing the point.
Dynamat is a flimsy material. you cant just place it over a hole and expect it to stay there or do anything.
The door hardware includes the tension spring in the middle for the window, which cant be covered. There's the metal rod for the lock, which cant be covered, and all of the screw/clip holds for the door panel are covered. Just curious how he did it to compare vs what i did on mine.
So you were able to cover up the rods and whatnot without any problems? that surprises me. Interested to see how its holding up after a year.
do any of the parts ur talking about protrude in and out? because i really cant seem to figure out what the problem is... i kno ur naming the sutff, but im looking at other pics... n i dont c anything... what rods r u talking about man?
can u like, take a plain door and circle the stuff ur talking about? cuz i srsly cant figure out what else there is to worry about, as long as plugs and **** r accessible.
yeah everything works perfectly. and its awesome when i got my door replaced after hitting that deer i got to keep the inside portion with the dynamat still on it they just replaced the outer skin =). So if the rods and whatnot can survive an inexperienced dynamat job and a deer bashing into it id say its safe to go with my method? idk haha i guess its up to you
find me a pic of a bare door and ill circle what im talking about. there's moving parts in there, thats what my concern was.
best i cud do.
now that i think about it... if this clear plastic cover, covers the entire door and gaps... why cant dynamat?
when i take my door apart... im gonna plug all the switches and **** back in, so its a normally functioning door, and record a video of what exactly moves and ****, so we settle this once n for all.
Last edited by Pete03GLS; 08-15-2008 at 12:33 AM.