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Sound deadening thread

34K views 190 replies 22 participants last post by  mkjh 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so i've been putting sound deadner in the XD and just wanted to post some pics of the progress, im currently using several products.
Second Skin Damplifier <38sq ft so far>
Foil Tape
Butyl Backed Foil Tape
Second Skin Spectrum Liquid Deadener <30sq ft so far>
1/8" thick Frost King Duct Insulation
1/4" thick foam weatherstripping
(3.5 yr old) eDead v1 <3sq ft>










I still have a whole lot to do and am waiting for a new shipment of damplifier to come in so i can do the headliner and the back doors and other misc. areas.
 
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#33 ·
ok pete, you're missing the point.


Dynamat is a flimsy material. you cant just place it over a hole and expect it to stay there or do anything.

The door hardware includes the tension spring in the middle for the window, which cant be covered. There's the metal rod for the lock, which cant be covered, and all of the screw/clip holds for the door panel are covered. Just curious how he did it to compare vs what i did on mine.
 
#35 ·
So you were able to cover up the rods and whatnot without any problems? that surprises me. Interested to see how its holding up after a year.
 
#36 ·
do any of the parts ur talking about protrude in and out? because i really cant seem to figure out what the problem is... i kno ur naming the sutff, but im looking at other pics... n i dont c anything... what rods r u talking about man?

can u like, take a plain door and circle the stuff ur talking about? cuz i srsly cant figure out what else there is to worry about, as long as plugs and **** r accessible.
 
#37 ·
yeah everything works perfectly. and its awesome when i got my door replaced after hitting that deer i got to keep the inside portion with the dynamat still on it they just replaced the outer skin =). So if the rods and whatnot can survive an inexperienced dynamat job and a deer bashing into it id say its safe to go with my method? idk haha i guess its up to you
 
#38 ·
find me a pic of a bare door and ill circle what im talking about. there's moving parts in there, thats what my concern was.
 
#39 · (Edited)


best i cud do.

now that i think about it... if this clear plastic cover, covers the entire door and gaps... why cant dynamat?



when i take my door apart... im gonna plug all the switches and **** back in, so its a normally functioning door, and record a video of what exactly moves and ****, so we settle this once n for all.
 
#42 · (Edited)
These parts circled in green are moving parts. I left them exposed, and the majority of people ive seen with other cars do the same.







wait....you dynamatted over the plastic liner? SO your dynamat isnt attached to the door frame itself??
 
#44 ·
ok, and just simply using a heat gun to lay the material wont work. you HAVE to use a roller and smash the sticky backing into the metal. also, using a heat gun to get the adhesive backing glue to get sticky also helps alot too. a few spots in my car are coming undone. but having it done for 4+yrs, id expect it to a little.
 
#45 · (Edited)
i took my vapor barrier off and threw it in the trash, i don't see how you were able to use it as a template cause it doesn't make contact with anything but the edges covered w/ tar, i'll post more progress pics when i'm not at work
 
#47 · (Edited)
oh, i get you now. Because once you start pulling off the vapor barrier and it gets snagged w/ the tar you usually end up spliting it down the middle and then stringy tar gets everywhere

Here are the newer pics
Deflex pad instsalled

Painted crash bar


Rear deck padding almost done
 
#50 ·
wouldnt going over the liner sort of defeat the purpose? i mean the material itself stops sound n all, but doesnt it also stop vibration and such? if its not on the metal, its not working at full strength i would think..
 
#54 · (Edited)
please explain that one to the class...
ok guys, class in session. listen carefully as this is gonna be long. the main reason to dynamat or sound prooof your car is to get rid of the rattles and prevent harmonic frequencies from killing your db scores.

by putting the material on the METAL!!! pieces (or fiberglass or plastic as in saturns), you make it so when the bass hits the metal doesnt vibrate and make noise. a little noice from rattling door panels ect will KILL your score. it might be only 1-3 db's, but in comps every last bit helps. you should do the inner door skin (the solid metal thats behind the glass. dont be a puss, just do it!!!!!!! then wrap the outer door skin (carefully). all metal exposed pieces should be wrapped or painted with the material. the doors, roof, behind dash, rear 1/4 panels and trunk area are the areas you should focus your matting. the floor is a little overkill cause it has carpet and carpet padding which acts like a sound barrier already. thats why you dont hear the tire/road noise thru the floor while driving.

when you put the mat or painted material down, you MUST 1st clean the entire area with a degreaser. the material wont stick for long if applied on a dirty surface. roll the sheets out hard with a small roller. making sure to really press the sticky backing into the areas to get applied. solid large pieces worrk better than putting 50 small pieces. if you use small pieces, you must overlap them alot to not make sure every last inch is fully covered. any gaps in the matting and its not gonna work correctly. will it still work, sure. but why half *** this if your already putting in all the time and effort in doing it.

also using a heat gun to activate the glue backing is a must. this will help in softening the backing and make it easier to roll out and will adhere to the metal alot better. and some material it requires you to use a heat gun to activate the glue. a blow dryer will work ok, but after a few mins using the blow dryer its gonna die on ya and your mom or g/f wont be too happy wiht you.

it took me 18 hrs and 3 days to do my car. i did all 4 doors, the roof, the rear 1/4 panels and the entire hatch area including the hatch lid and i even removed the rear seats and did the flooring and surounding areas around that

no need to do the inside of the plastic trim pieces as those normally dont vibrate to cause any probs.
 
#53 · (Edited)
thats air duct insulation on the rear deck its 1/8" foam and im not done at all, i am expecting more material to come in monday or tuesday, im gonna overlap all the pieces I just had 1 sqft leftover and used them on different spots before i get 40 more sqft. The only part of the car that is done for now is the trunk, but I have to wait 14 days to put more material in it. I haven't even started on the back doors. And I ordered some water/mold resistant foam that im waiting to put in the doors before I close the holes w/ sheetmetal.
I did do another part of the car though, the plastic panel on the trunk latch. ALSO I think I posted about this before but if anyone has tried it it kinda works a little to put polyfill in the trunk latch hole area, it somewhat kills a bit of rattle.

<butyl back foil tape>

<duct insulation>

So far there is a HUGE difference between the front and back doors, when I tap on the front its a dead solid sound while the back sounds like tin.
 
#55 · (Edited)
im putting duct insulation on all of the plastic pieces i removed, i don't care if its overkill because the stuff is only $16 for a roll, and covering the gaps is why I sought out the butyl foil tape, im using the tape to go over ALL the seams or as much as possible before I get my second batch, the foil on the tape is 17mills thick so Im sure its providing some deadning in those small seams. Like I said its quieter than my old car and this system is probably 5x as loud.

my old setup was 2 10" audiobahns w/ a 300watt amp in a crappy ported box, now Im running one 12"cvx at 1ohm in a sealed box, but i'm not doing it for db drag, i just don't want anymore sound tickets EVER!
 
#57 · (Edited)
hold on tommy, i didn't post any pics of the speaker mounted or did I? im looking at the pics I took and they were all before I put the deflex pad in. I'll take a pic of the speaker mounted but all I did was line the stock plastic speaker bracket with thin foam, cut it to fit the new 6.5", screw it into the plastic and then mount them w/ nylon washers behind them. I want to make mdf brackets but I have to buy a jigsaw (don't laugh air cutoff tools aren't that great on mdf).

right now the door is solid although im gonna finish inside the door it is really clear and only the back door has vibrations really

-edit- Ok i see the speaker in the pic w/ the butyl tape but those screws are in the plastic and not the door
 
#58 ·
Corn Bread I have this Severely Annoying Trunk lid rattle. What is this Polyfill and Has the Matting Help this at all.
 
#59 · (Edited)
yeah, it helped me out a bit, what I did was put 2 layers of deadner
on the back of my plate (i may paint a layer on too) attach 4 foam blocks of 1/4" automotive/marine weatherstriping foam from home depot, and stuffed the trunk latch hole w/ polyfill which is the stuff you put in pillows.

you can get it at any craft/fabric store usually and probably wal-mart in the fabric area. its kinda like cotton but its fluffly polyester. Now it doesn't eliminate the rattle but you can get all this stuff for under $25 so its worth it to me, I had leftover polyfill from using it as faux smoke during HIN in 06.
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3406&PRODID=prd3189&source=search
THROWBACK!
 
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