Ok so i've been putting sound deadner in the XD and just wanted to post some pics of the progress, im currently using several products.
Second Skin Damplifier <38sq ft so far>
Foil Tape
Butyl Backed Foil Tape
Second Skin Spectrum Liquid Deadener <30sq ft so far>
1/8" thick Frost King Duct Insulation
1/4" thick foam weatherstripping
(3.5 yr old) eDead v1 <3sq ft>
I still have a whole lot to do and am waiting for a new shipment of damplifier to come in so i can do the headliner and the back doors and other misc. areas.
wat do u mean wat he did with the holes... he covered them with the dynamat... just like in the picture... and looks to me like all the hard ware is present...
speakers, check.
window switches, check.
door handle, check.
door light, check.
ill take that panel off tomorrow and take a pic. the only thing that I did was cut holes for like 2 or 3 of the wires to come through. i mean its worked good for idk almost a year since ive had it on still functions perfectly.
Dynamat is a flimsy material. you cant just place it over a hole and expect it to stay there or do anything.
The door hardware includes the tension spring in the middle for the window, which cant be covered. There's the metal rod for the lock, which cant be covered, and all of the screw/clip holds for the door panel are covered. Just curious how he did it to compare vs what i did on mine.
keep in mind im not as knowledgable as most of you guys (sp?) lol, i think i just dynamatted over it all because i didnt know any better. it has been a while though so i will take pics and let you know.
do any of the parts ur talking about protrude in and out? because i really cant seem to figure out what the problem is... i kno ur naming the sutff, but im looking at other pics... n i dont c anything... what rods r u talking about man?
can u like, take a plain door and circle the stuff ur talking about? cuz i srsly cant figure out what else there is to worry about, as long as plugs and **** r accessible.
yeah everything works perfectly. and its awesome when i got my door replaced after hitting that deer i got to keep the inside portion with the dynamat still on it they just replaced the outer skin =). So if the rods and whatnot can survive an inexperienced dynamat job and a deer bashing into it id say its safe to go with my method? idk haha i guess its up to you
now that i think about it... if this clear plastic cover, covers the entire door and gaps... why cant dynamat?
when i take my door apart... im gonna plug all the switches and **** back in, so its a normally functioning door, and record a video of what exactly moves and ****, so we settle this once n for all.
simple enough, cut a tiny slit to alot the 2 chords/wires to go thru, and that coil thing... im sure would b fine with some dynamat over it, if not, just cut a hole out, and its fine.
he said he took it off and just used it as a template. we just mis understood it. he took that liner off.
ok, and just simply using a heat gun to lay the material wont work. you HAVE to use a roller and smash the sticky backing into the metal. also, using a heat gun to get the adhesive backing glue to get sticky also helps alot too. a few spots in my car are coming undone. but having it done for 4+yrs, id expect it to a little.
i took my vapor barrier off and threw it in the trash, i don't see how you were able to use it as a template cause it doesn't make contact with anything but the edges covered w/ tar, i'll post more progress pics when i'm not at work
i didnt say it worked perfectly as a template lol it rips so easily when you try to take it off, lets just say i used it as a "guide" as to where to make slits for the wires to come through
oh, i get you now. Because once you start pulling off the vapor barrier and it gets snagged w/ the tar you usually end up spliting it down the middle and then stringy tar gets everywhere
CB, having a bunch of small pieces wont do squat. you need large-single pieces covering areas. if you use little pieces, you need to over-lap them in order to get the coverage your looking for.
wouldnt going over the liner sort of defeat the purpose? i mean the material itself stops sound n all, but doesnt it also stop vibration and such? if its not on the metal, its not working at full strength i would think..
ok guys, class in session. listen carefully as this is gonna be long. the main reason to dynamat or sound prooof your car is to get rid of the rattles and prevent harmonic frequencies from killing your db scores.
by putting the material on the METAL!!! pieces (or fiberglass or plastic as in saturns), you make it so when the bass hits the metal doesnt vibrate and make noise. a little noice from rattling door panels ect will KILL your score. it might be only 1-3 db's, but in comps every last bit helps. you should do the inner door skin (the solid metal thats behind the glass. dont be a puss, just do it!!!!!!! then wrap the outer door skin (carefully). all metal exposed pieces should be wrapped or painted with the material. the doors, roof, behind dash, rear 1/4 panels and trunk area are the areas you should focus your matting. the floor is a little overkill cause it has carpet and carpet padding which acts like a sound barrier already. thats why you dont hear the tire/road noise thru the floor while driving.
when you put the mat or painted material down, you MUST 1st clean the entire area with a degreaser. the material wont stick for long if applied on a dirty surface. roll the sheets out hard with a small roller. making sure to really press the sticky backing into the areas to get applied. solid large pieces worrk better than putting 50 small pieces. if you use small pieces, you must overlap them alot to not make sure every last inch is fully covered. any gaps in the matting and its not gonna work correctly. will it still work, sure. but why half *** this if your already putting in all the time and effort in doing it.
also using a heat gun to activate the glue backing is a must. this will help in softening the backing and make it easier to roll out and will adhere to the metal alot better. and some material it requires you to use a heat gun to activate the glue. a blow dryer will work ok, but after a few mins using the blow dryer its gonna die on ya and your mom or g/f wont be too happy wiht you.
it took me 18 hrs and 3 days to do my car. i did all 4 doors, the roof, the rear 1/4 panels and the entire hatch area including the hatch lid and i even removed the rear seats and did the flooring and surounding areas around that
no need to do the inside of the plastic trim pieces as those normally dont vibrate to cause any probs.
thats air duct insulation on the rear deck its 1/8" foam and im not done at all, i am expecting more material to come in monday or tuesday, im gonna overlap all the pieces I just had 1 sqft leftover and used them on different spots before i get 40 more sqft. The only part of the car that is done for now is the trunk, but I have to wait 14 days to put more material in it. I haven't even started on the back doors. And I ordered some water/mold resistant foam that im waiting to put in the doors before I close the holes w/ sheetmetal.
I did do another part of the car though, the plastic panel on the trunk latch. ALSO I think I posted about this before but if anyone has tried it it kinda works a little to put polyfill in the trunk latch hole area, it somewhat kills a bit of rattle.
<butyl back foil tape>
<duct insulation>
So far there is a HUGE difference between the front and back doors, when I tap on the front its a dead solid sound while the back sounds like tin.
im putting duct insulation on all of the plastic pieces i removed, i don't care if its overkill because the stuff is only $16 for a roll, and covering the gaps is why I sought out the butyl foil tape, im using the tape to go over ALL the seams or as much as possible before I get my second batch, the foil on the tape is 17mills thick so Im sure its providing some deadning in those small seams. Like I said its quieter than my old car and this system is probably 5x as loud.
my old setup was 2 10" audiobahns w/ a 300watt amp in a crappy ported box, now Im running one 12"cvx at 1ohm in a sealed box, but i'm not doing it for db drag, i just don't want anymore sound tickets EVER!
hold on tommy, i didn't post any pics of the speaker mounted or did I? im looking at the pics I took and they were all before I put the deflex pad in. I'll take a pic of the speaker mounted but all I did was line the stock plastic speaker bracket with thin foam, cut it to fit the new 6.5", screw it into the plastic and then mount them w/ nylon washers behind them. I want to make mdf brackets but I have to buy a jigsaw (don't laugh air cutoff tools aren't that great on mdf).
right now the door is solid although im gonna finish inside the door it is really clear and only the back door has vibrations really
-edit- Ok i see the speaker in the pic w/ the butyl tape but those screws are in the plastic and not the door
yeah, it helped me out a bit, what I did was put 2 layers of deadner
on the back of my plate (i may paint a layer on too) attach 4 foam blocks of 1/4" automotive/marine weatherstriping foam from home depot, and stuffed the trunk latch hole w/ polyfill which is the stuff you put in pillows.
you can get it at any craft/fabric store usually and probably wal-mart in the fabric area. its kinda like cotton but its fluffly polyester. Now it doesn't eliminate the rattle but you can get all this stuff for under $25 so its worth it to me, I had leftover polyfill from using it as faux smoke during HIN in 06. http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3406&PRODID=prd3189&source=search
THROWBACK!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hyundai Elantra Forum
659.3K posts
30K members
Since 2004
A forum community dedicated to Hyundai Elantra XD owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!