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Thread: Sound deadening thread

  1. #41

    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    well that explains alot....

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  3. #42
    Where's My Boomstick? Tommy knows a lot about Elantras Tommy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    These parts circled in green are moving parts. I left them exposed, and the majority of people ive seen with other cars do the same.




    Quote Originally Posted by indkezra View Post
    yes, that plastic cover, totally forgot about that. I took my dynamat and layed that over it and sliced holes where they were on the plastic.

    wait....you dynamatted over the plastic liner? SO your dynamat isnt attached to the door frame itself??
    Last edited by Tommy; 08-15-2008 at 01:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  4. #43

    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    simple enough, cut a tiny slit to alot the 2 chords/wires to go thru, and that coil thing... im sure would b fine with some dynamat over it, if not, just cut a hole out, and its fine.

    he said he took it off and just used it as a template. we just mis understood it. he took that liner off.
    Last edited by Pete03GLS; 08-15-2008 at 01:38 AM.

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  6. #44
    circuit track whore 2loud2k2xd has not yet proved knowledgeable 2loud2k2xd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    ok, and just simply using a heat gun to lay the material wont work. you HAVE to use a roller and smash the sticky backing into the metal. also, using a heat gun to get the adhesive backing glue to get sticky also helps alot too. a few spots in my car are coming undone. but having it done for 4+yrs, id expect it to a little.
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  7. #45
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    i took my vapor barrier off and threw it in the trash, i don't see how you were able to use it as a template cause it doesn't make contact with anything but the edges covered w/ tar, i'll post more progress pics when i'm not at work
    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-15-2008 at 10:05 AM.
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  8. #46
    EXD Pro Member indkezra can identify a wrench
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    i didnt say it worked perfectly as a template lol it rips so easily when you try to take it off, lets just say i used it as a "guide" as to where to make slits for the wires to come through


  9. #47
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    oh, i get you now. Because once you start pulling off the vapor barrier and it gets snagged w/ the tar you usually end up spliting it down the middle and then stringy tar gets everywhere

    Here are the newer pics
    Deflex pad instsalled

    Painted crash bar


    Rear deck padding almost done
    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-15-2008 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica = Junkyard
    03 Hyundai Elantra XD = 8-30-07 R.I.P
    78 Datsun 280z = Resting
    03 Hyundai Elantra GT 4dr = Driving
    03 Kawasaki Ninja 500 = Riding
    i bet my stock elantra will park you!

  10. #48
    Kinky Kelly 2003GT has not yet proved knowledgeable 2003GT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Hey How did you make that trunk lid. Is it from another Hyundai.
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    CB, having a bunch of small pieces wont do squat. you need large-single pieces covering areas. if you use little pieces, you need to over-lap them in order to get the coverage your looking for.
    click here for K-sport coilover deal
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  12. #50
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    wouldnt going over the liner sort of defeat the purpose? i mean the material itself stops sound n all, but doesnt it also stop vibration and such? if its not on the metal, its not working at full strength i would think..
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  13. #51
    Where's My Boomstick? Tommy knows a lot about Elantras Tommy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 2loud2k2xd View Post
    CB, having a bunch of small pieces wont do squat. you need large-single pieces covering areas. if you use little pieces, you need to over-lap them in order to get the coverage your looking for.

    please explain that one to the class...

  14. #52
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    he's saying, to avoid gaps, and areas for sound to penetrate you'd need to overlap it slightly to get full effect.
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  15. #53
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    thats air duct insulation on the rear deck its 1/8" foam and im not done at all, i am expecting more material to come in monday or tuesday, im gonna overlap all the pieces I just had 1 sqft leftover and used them on different spots before i get 40 more sqft. The only part of the car that is done for now is the trunk, but I have to wait 14 days to put more material in it. I haven't even started on the back doors. And I ordered some water/mold resistant foam that im waiting to put in the doors before I close the holes w/ sheetmetal.
    I did do another part of the car though, the plastic panel on the trunk latch. ALSO I think I posted about this before but if anyone has tried it it kinda works a little to put polyfill in the trunk latch hole area, it somewhat kills a bit of rattle.

    <butyl back foil tape>

    <duct insulation>

    So far there is a HUGE difference between the front and back doors, when I tap on the front its a dead solid sound while the back sounds like tin.
    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-17-2008 at 09:51 PM.
    87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica = Junkyard
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  16. #54
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Ugzz View Post
    wouldnt going over the liner sort of defeat the purpose? i mean the material itself stops sound n all, but doesnt it also stop vibration and such? if its not on the metal, its not working at full strength i would think..
    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    please explain that one to the class...
    ok guys, class in session. listen carefully as this is gonna be long. the main reason to dynamat or sound prooof your car is to get rid of the rattles and prevent harmonic frequencies from killing your db scores.

    by putting the material on the METAL!!! pieces (or fiberglass or plastic as in saturns), you make it so when the bass hits the metal doesnt vibrate and make noise. a little noice from rattling door panels ect will KILL your score. it might be only 1-3 db's, but in comps every last bit helps. you should do the inner door skin (the solid metal thats behind the glass. dont be a puss, just do it!!!!!!! then wrap the outer door skin (carefully). all metal exposed pieces should be wrapped or painted with the material. the doors, roof, behind dash, rear 1/4 panels and trunk area are the areas you should focus your matting. the floor is a little overkill cause it has carpet and carpet padding which acts like a sound barrier already. thats why you dont hear the tire/road noise thru the floor while driving.

    when you put the mat or painted material down, you MUST 1st clean the entire area with a degreaser. the material wont stick for long if applied on a dirty surface. roll the sheets out hard with a small roller. making sure to really press the sticky backing into the areas to get applied. solid large pieces worrk better than putting 50 small pieces. if you use small pieces, you must overlap them alot to not make sure every last inch is fully covered. any gaps in the matting and its not gonna work correctly. will it still work, sure. but why half *** this if your already putting in all the time and effort in doing it.

    also using a heat gun to activate the glue backing is a must. this will help in softening the backing and make it easier to roll out and will adhere to the metal alot better. and some material it requires you to use a heat gun to activate the glue. a blow dryer will work ok, but after a few mins using the blow dryer its gonna die on ya and your mom or g/f wont be too happy wiht you.

    it took me 18 hrs and 3 days to do my car. i did all 4 doors, the roof, the rear 1/4 panels and the entire hatch area including the hatch lid and i even removed the rear seats and did the flooring and surounding areas around that

    no need to do the inside of the plastic trim pieces as those normally dont vibrate to cause any probs.
    Last edited by 2loud2k2xd; 08-17-2008 at 10:27 PM.
    click here for K-sport coilover deal
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  17. #55
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    im putting duct insulation on all of the plastic pieces i removed, i don't care if its overkill because the stuff is only $16 for a roll, and covering the gaps is why I sought out the butyl foil tape, im using the tape to go over ALL the seams or as much as possible before I get my second batch, the foil on the tape is 17mills thick so Im sure its providing some deadning in those small seams. Like I said its quieter than my old car and this system is probably 5x as loud.

    my old setup was 2 10" audiobahns w/ a 300watt amp in a crappy ported box, now Im running one 12"cvx at 1ohm in a sealed box, but i'm not doing it for db drag, i just don't want anymore sound tickets EVER!
    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-17-2008 at 10:50 PM.
    87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica = Junkyard
    03 Hyundai Elantra XD = 8-30-07 R.I.P
    78 Datsun 280z = Resting
    03 Hyundai Elantra GT 4dr = Driving
    03 Kawasaki Ninja 500 = Riding
    i bet my stock elantra will park you!

  18. #56
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 2loud2k2xd View Post
    ok guys, class in session. listen carefully as this is gonna be long. the main reason to dynamat or sound prooof your car is to get rid of the rattles and prevent harmonic frequencies from killing your db scores.

    by putting the material on the METAL!!! pieces (or fiberglass or plastic as in saturns), you make it so when the bass hits the metal doesnt vibrate and make noise. a little noice from rattling door panels ect will KILL your score. it might be only 1-3 db's, but in comps every last bit helps. you should do the inner door skin (the solid metal thats behind the glass. dont be a puss, just do it!!!!!!! then wrap the outer door skin (carefully). all metal exposed pieces should be wrapped or painted with the material. the doors, roof, behind dash, rear 1/4 panels and trunk area are the areas you should focus your matting. the floor is a little overkill cause it has carpet and carpet padding which acts like a sound barrier already. thats why you dont hear the tire/road noise thru the floor while driving.

    when you put the mat or painted material down, you MUST 1st clean the entire area with a degreaser. the material wont stick for long if applied on a dirty surface. roll the sheets out hard with a small roller. making sure to really press the sticky backing into the areas to get applied. solid large pieces worrk better than putting 50 small pieces. if you use small pieces, you must overlap them alot to not make sure every last inch is fully covered. any gaps in the matting and its not gonna work correctly. will it still work, sure. but why half *** this if your already putting in all the time and effort in doing it.

    also using a heat gun to activate the glue backing is a must. this will help in softening the backing and make it easier to roll out and will adhere to the metal alot better. and some material it requires you to use a heat gun to activate the glue. a blow dryer will work ok, but after a few mins using the blow dryer its gonna die on ya and your mom or g/f wont be too happy wiht you.

    it took me 18 hrs and 3 days to do my car. i did all 4 doors, the roof, the rear 1/4 panels and the entire hatch area including the hatch lid and i even removed the rear seats and did the flooring and surounding areas around that

    no need to do the inside of the plastic trim pieces as those normally dont vibrate to cause any probs.





    K. But what difference does multiple small pieces mean vs single large pieces?

    The dynamat/raammat, whatever flavor you choose, any sort of ashphault/rubber based stick on liner or paint on liner serves one purpose, make the panels heavier and therefore harder to move/vibrate. It makes their movements resonate at a lower frequency.

    As long as the surface is covered, and made heavier, there's no way it makes any difference whether its 1 huge piece or 100 small pieces. Saying what he's got does nothing is just wrong. Just adding a single piece to a panel is going to change the way the panel reacts to vibrations.


    only thing i can fault him on is not having any isolation. ive got 1/2" foam between all my panels and the door/shelf whatever. Also looks like the front speakers are mounted directly to the door, another scratch there. Should be mounted on something that will transfer the fewest vibrations to the panel. I use plastic rings wrapped in 2 layers of mat then mounted on rubber washers.

  19. #57
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    hold on tommy, i didn't post any pics of the speaker mounted or did I? im looking at the pics I took and they were all before I put the deflex pad in. I'll take a pic of the speaker mounted but all I did was line the stock plastic speaker bracket with thin foam, cut it to fit the new 6.5", screw it into the plastic and then mount them w/ nylon washers behind them. I want to make mdf brackets but I have to buy a jigsaw (don't laugh air cutoff tools aren't that great on mdf).

    right now the door is solid although im gonna finish inside the door it is really clear and only the back door has vibrations really

    -edit- Ok i see the speaker in the pic w/ the butyl tape but those screws are in the plastic and not the door
    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-18-2008 at 12:06 AM.
    87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica = Junkyard
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    78 Datsun 280z = Resting
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    i bet my stock elantra will park you!

  20. #58
    Kinky Kelly 2003GT has not yet proved knowledgeable 2003GT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Corn Bread I have this Severely Annoying Trunk lid rattle. What is this Polyfill and Has the Matting Help this at all.
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  21. #59
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    yeah, it helped me out a bit, what I did was put 2 layers of deadner
    on the back of my plate (i may paint a layer on too) attach 4 foam blocks of 1/4" automotive/marine weatherstriping foam from home depot, and stuffed the trunk latch hole w/ polyfill which is the stuff you put in pillows.

    you can get it at any craft/fabric store usually and probably wal-mart in the fabric area. its kinda like cotton but its fluffly polyester. Now it doesn't eliminate the rattle but you can get all this stuff for under $25 so its worth it to me, I had leftover polyfill from using it as faux smoke during HIN in 06.
    http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.j...&source=search
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    Last edited by CornbreadXD; 08-18-2008 at 08:53 PM.
    87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica = Junkyard
    03 Hyundai Elantra XD = 8-30-07 R.I.P
    78 Datsun 280z = Resting
    03 Hyundai Elantra GT 4dr = Driving
    03 Kawasaki Ninja 500 = Riding
    i bet my stock elantra will park you!

  22. #60
    Ultimate Post Whore cbogg knows a lot about Elantras cbogg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sound deadening thread

    Polyfill smokeshow. That's kinda ghetto bro. But props to you for having the balls to do it! Don't you think that if it got wet though, the poly fill would be a good source of corrosion?
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