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Sound deadening thread

34K views 190 replies 22 participants last post by  mkjh 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so i've been putting sound deadner in the XD and just wanted to post some pics of the progress, im currently using several products.
Second Skin Damplifier <38sq ft so far>
Foil Tape
Butyl Backed Foil Tape
Second Skin Spectrum Liquid Deadener <30sq ft so far>
1/8" thick Frost King Duct Insulation
1/4" thick foam weatherstripping
(3.5 yr old) eDead v1 <3sq ft>










I still have a whole lot to do and am waiting for a new shipment of damplifier to come in so i can do the headliner and the back doors and other misc. areas.
 
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#114 ·
ah, gotcha.

Yea, it makes a good difference. helps a lot with muffling any of the higher pitched rattles, lowers their frequency to something less noticeable, and then the low frequency road noise is almost stopped completely.
 
#115 ·
Most of you seem to be deadening the sound to help with the systems you have in your cars. But what about someone who just wants to get rid of some of the road noise and vibrations? Would you still recommend adding dynamat/second skin/etc everywhere, or are there certain places that would give me that extra bit of quiet I'm looking for? I don't figure I'll need to do the trunk, but probably the front floorboards, maybe the front doors. The firewall? Thoughts?
 
#116 ·
Floor boards, firewall, doors and roof.

same concept as deadening for speakers.
 
#118 ·
Anything thats Butyl based. Dont buy an asphault based deadner. They're not as effiecent, smell bad, and will melt into a puddle of nasty in your hot climate.

I like edead45 - http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_24 - but its back ordered at the moment. They do have the heavier stuff in stock though, which is better, but more expensive and a bit tougher to work with.


Second skin is about the best you can get - http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ - but itll cost you.

Figure 100ft of mass loader (butyl dampener), probably 30-40 for absorption mat, and if you really want to go all out, get a bucket of paint on to do the floors with and the undersides of your fenders.
 
#119 · (Edited)
IMO F everything else and just use second skin, you get what you pay for. I'm practically done w/ my car and w/ the windows rolled up it's borderline Mercedes style quite on the highway and street. w/o music playing and the windows up I can't hear other cars at all, even sirens are completely faint, i like it that way myself but I didn't kill the floor because I wanted to only have noise from the undercarriage so I could hear if there is a rattle or something.

I also did the firewall and it cut out a good amount of engine noise but not enough so that you can't diagnose stuff. I was gonna do the hood liner but i'll wait to do that on the CF hood whenever it comes.

I do still need to put some closed cell foam on the trunk floor under my false floor when I remake it and a little more under the back seats. I'll do the wheel wells soon with the rest of the liquid deadener I have.
 
#120 · (Edited)
Hey I just finished deadening my trunk, and wiring 2 of my Big 3. On the wiring, I think it looks ugly too, but it works, and I may change it later. And now the trunk lid weighs about 25 pounds heavier, and will nolonger stay open by itself. Here are some pics:







 
#121 ·
With the system i have i seriousl should get some of this stuff. a 1200 watt Boss Amp, 2 12 inch Phoenix Gold subs in a ported box with a 3 farad capacitor. yeah i vibrate garage doors just driving down my street. i have to turn my music down before going onto my street or i get serious complaints. if my windows are down and one side of my back seat down, then you can hear my car from a block away if not more, no joke, so just imagine what the rattles sound like. ive had friends make me turn it down cause thier hearts start to feel funny cause the bass hits so hard. i just dont wanna spend the money to sound deaden my car cause i dont do comps.
 
#123 · (Edited)
Silver - its not just for comps.

Deadener will make the overall sound louder and cleaner. Less energy spent rattling panels = more energy spent making the sounds you want. Over all, the system will sound much better.

car audio is like 9/10ths install, 1/10th components. A great install will do amazing things for sub-par equipment.
 
#124 · (Edited)
Tommy is dead on, I sound proofed my deck lid and front doors when I just had the factory components, and a cheap Sony HU, and it improved the clarity and bass two fold. and then I got a Clarion HU and Infinity components for the inside and I can take the volume up to my tolerance with an astounding clarity and right now even without subwoofers, it sounds deep and clear. I can't wait until I get my subs in.

I have seen many people with Rockford Fosgate Subs and JL Audio Amps, or any combination of very pricey components, and say they didn't think it sounded good, just because the enclosure was the wrong size or it was vented or not vented as per the subs specs, or they would have 4GA wire when the amp needed 1/0GA wire.
 
#127 ·
How is stereo one of your things but you dont properly install your equipment?

Thats like saying " I like to cook, but i dont cook food"
 
#128 ·
Laughing out loud with Tommy.

To his credit, sound isolation is all too often left to the wayside as money is spent buying 3 farad capacitors and Monsterwire. Both of which, you wouldn't need in a proper installation.
 
#129 · (Edited)
silver I don't even know how loud my car gets because when it starts to rattle on the outside I've never wanted to open the door and get in, i've only made it rattle by using the remote outside of the car. because of the car design it's not possible to be 100% silent I believe but it is feasible to have it loud enough on the inside w/ the volume at a lower setting, which is how my car is. I invested in all this because I didn't want people to hear me from a block away which is why I chose a SQ sub but at 15% volume I can't hear the engine or anything so I never really go past that point while driving.

maybe I'll try one day to have music playing while I walk down the street w/ someone watching my car and find out how far it can be heard clearly.

I am actually debating whether to pull the seats and do the floor because it'd only take 2 days to do it and reinstall everything but i'm low on sound funds but I still want more silence, I want ears to pop when the doors are shut, vacuum style.
 
#134 ·
monster wire isn't a rip off if you get it at the right price! I got a spool of 12ga and 8ga for $5 a piece (clearance) at walmart months ago, before they switched to all Scosche wires.
 
#135 ·
It's just as good as any wire, I'm speaking specifically about Best Buy, in my experience they overprice that stuff. But yeah, if you can get it at a reasonable price it's just as good as any wire.

I was talking about the fact that people install their systems wrong and then run and buy Monster wire because it is advertised as a way to solve inferior installation problems such as ground loops, and the like.
 
#136 ·
well if you want the best wire IMO go with KnuKonceptz and you get what you pay for, the stuff is PACKED full of copper and has the flexibility of a pull-n-peel twizzler. I only have like 1 ft of that stuff in my car because it came with a used distro block i bought off someone but its the TRUTH!
 
#138 · (Edited)
@CornbreadXD: That's what I use.

@Kingjombeejoe: I haven't used Shark Racing, but I haven't heard good things. I also don't like padding, but it might work somewhat. It is not a mass load material, and therefore will not stop vibrations, only dampen sound.

 
#139 ·
no kingjambalaya, that is the stuff that is behind your door and above your headliner, that stuff is a joke if your really gonna sound deaden your car stick with closed cell foams and foil/liquid deadeners and work in layers. that stuff will help a little with rattles to seperate plastics but foams would do the same for ALOT less
 
#141 · (Edited)
f- that, put your stuff in permanently, it won't just help your music sound better it'll cut out alot of road noise. If you don't plan to go at it like myself or noisewater have posted pics of you should at least do the trunk and you can use a liquid deadner if you don't feel like laying down foil. I see your going for a pioneer sponsorship w/ all that gear and deadening the trunk will give you more bass in your face.

make sure you put some on the back of your license plate and stick some pieces of thick weatherstripping behind it too so it's somewhat elevated off of the lid, which for me pretty much eliminated plate rattle, the only thing that really rattles on my trunk is the spoiler and rear trunk garnish, i may have my old is300 spoiler put on this car because that thing was silent.
 
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