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DIY: Valve Cover Gasket and Valve O-Rings

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40K views 39 replies 22 participants last post by  MrElantra104 
#1 · (Edited)
This is for a 2002 Elantra GLS but the procedures should be similar for other model years.

My valve cover gasket has started to leak and with 107k miles on the car I figured it didn't hurt to replace it and keep things looking the least filthy as possible.

Tools required:

10 mm deep socket
14 mm deep socket
Socket extension
Mallet and block of wood
Clean shop rags
Clean place to work
Flat bladed screw driver
Pliers
Sharpie
Acetone

Caution!
**Before disconnecting battery, if you have an anti-theft radio make sure you have the code for it!
**Make sure the engine is completely cool before this procedure.

1. Disconnect Battery

2. Remove accelerator cable from the back edge of the valve cover.



3. Loosen the bolts and remove the spark plug cover.

4. Using pliers loosen the hose clamps for the breather hose and PCV hose located on the back side of the valve cover and next to the right accelerator cable mount.





5. Slide both hoses off the outlet stems and let hang.

6. Remove the 4 bolts holding on the top timing belt cover and the cover too.





7. Remove the 13 bolts for the valve cover.







8. Using a sharpie, mark the spark plug wire assignment for each wire and pull out the wires and place them to the side of the engine.



9. Pull off the valve cover. Make sure you've loosened and removed all bolts first. If the valve cover is stuck, take a mallet and a block of wood and hit the sides of the cover to get it loose. It's also a good idea to keep the exposed engine covered if the car is outside while you work on it.

10. With the cover placed on the workbench, carefully remove any debris on the cover mating surface. Be absolutely sure not to scratch the metal surface and not get any debris into the engine. When the debris has been cleaned off, wipe the surface down with acetone so it's oil free. The reason is because any residue could cause an improper seal and oil leak. In the picture note the residue on the mating surface after I removed the cover. I cleaned it all the way around not just where the lines are. Also clean the mating surface of the cover itself once the gasket has been removed. I'm not sure if acetone on the plastic cover is safe since some plastics are reactive to acetone.





11. There are several items to replace on the valve cover. The gasket runs along the outside and all the way around. There are also 4 seals. You can also see the PCV valve and breather outlet more clearly. The PCV valve will also be replaced.





12. To remove the spark plug seals, take a flat bladed screw driver and mallet and place the valve cover on your work surface, on a cloth and tap out each one by placing the driver blade along the edge marked here. There is a metal band inside each seal so they cannot be pulled out.



13. Pull out the cover gasket and replace with the new one.

14. Remove the sponge from around the PCV valve.



15. Using a 14mm deep socket, remove the PCV valve and replace with the new one. Put the sponge back over the new valve.
**NOTE** My PCV valve has never been replaced with 107k miles on the car. It may not have needed it yet but it's a $5 part and since the cover was going to be off it was one of those things I thought is just common sense to do.





16. Place the rebuilt valve cover over the engine and reassemble in the opposite order everything was removed. When tightening the valve cover bolts, start in the middle of the cover and loosen gradually in a cross-cross pattern outward. Tightening torque is between 72 - 84 inch-pounds or 6 - 7 ft.-lb.
 
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#6 ·
I may update this later with pics in the thread but for now it's just the links since it's faster. The links all appear the same but they are not. The forum just truncates the URLs since they are too long.

Nice write-up, but: you don't want people to laugh at you, so... 2 things:

1- Those are the spark plug seals
2- They are seals or gaskets, not o-rings
Seals noted. Thanks.:abovelol:
 
#13 · (Edited)
I didn't really see any need for it but the Haynes manual called for it so I figured it wouldn't hurt anything.

as of 11:15 pm , they still don't work but i read the instructions and can basically do it.

bob
Links fixed. Not sure why Google's Picassa wasn't working properly. Also, having trouble getting the pics to load in directly to the thread so the links will unfortunately have to do for the time being. Anyone have any ideas why the forum is dropping the "
" tags off and just giving a URL?

Sorry it's been so long to fix this. I have had some other things that just took greater precedent this weekend.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks all for the compliments. No idea why Google's Picassa was such a problem. It really shouldn't be that hard to link to. I guess I could see all the links and pics because I'm the album owner so I wouldn't have never known.

Regarding the markings, it all sits under the plastic cover so it's not visible unless the cover is removed. Also easy enough to remove if I had a need to. I guess it's just engraved in my head to always mark before removing from previous older vehicles.

And while I'm sure someone noticed the temperature bar in my screenshot and wondered where I live, I have to say after looking at the engine pics of XDs in climates of snow and lots of rain, I'm glad I have no rust...just dust and dirt from LA suburbian desert. =)
 
#20 ·
wow looks alot easier than the honda accord i had, there was oil in the plug tubes and not only did you have to replace those and the valve cover gasket but you also had to loosen off the bolts on the rocker assembly and lift it out to replace O rings underneath the rocker assembly. went smoothly though so i have high hopes for this. wasnt too fun to remove that plastic/aluminum engine cover to discover oil on the engine around the valve cover when changing the alternator
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the great DIY. I just finished my '03 a few days ago, and after 700 miles I see no leakage.

A NOTE FOR '03 OWNERS: Do not depend on the date of manufacture to decide on a 13 vs. 12 bolt gasket. Mine was manufactured in 08/2002 indicating a 13 bolt gasket. As it turned out, mine had the newer design requiring a 12 bolt gasket. So, just be sure to count your bolts first. The easiest way to tell(other than counting them all) is to look at the area where the third pic of valve cover bolts is above. If you have 3 bolts it's a 13. 2 bolts is a 12. Fortunately I had the wife's Sonata to go get another gasket with.

As far as RTV goes, I cleaned off the old RTV in the areas around the half-moon plugs and applied a small amount of Permatex Ultra-Black to those areas before replacing the cover.
 
#25 ·
Hello guys, I have a 2003 GT elantra. I discovered few months ago a small oil leak on the valve gasket. I did everything as here but when I got into this:

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I saw a LOT of oil sludge, but a mean a lot. I tried to clean it a little, because it was heavy. So far I will try to open the valve cover and clean a little more. What do you guys recommend me? Just leave it like that? Also, I have to change oil in a couple of weeks. Maybe I could do it just before changing the oil.

thanks.
 
#28 · (Edited)
RedScorp, great photo presentation and comments. Thanks to all the commenters for affirming the presentation or adding to it. A question:

My disabled friend has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. A mechanic who fixed a cracked radiator on it said she needed a new valve cover gasket; quoted her $450; and mentioned that there was some secondary part that is normally replaced with the valve cover gasket that explained for the high price. What could this secondary part be?

Instead of the mechanic doing this job, I am doing it. I have replaced the valve cover gasket and more on my various Honda Civics for some 20 years now. On my friend's Hyundai, I am replacing the valve cover gasket, four spark plug tube seals, wherever the half moon seals that come with the kit go, and PCV valve. Thanks to ga-satcom and others posting about the 13-bolt and 12-bolt valve cover gaskets. I understand any date on or before October 31, 2002 requires the 13-bolt gasket. I eventually remembered that the month of manufacturer is often on the driver's inside door jamb. Sure enough, it was on my friend's Hyundai: March 2002. The 13-bolt gasket kit is on order from Ebay. This morning I sprayed PB Blaster around the threads where the PCV valve screws in. In the past doing this a few days before a maintenance job, and driving the car so that the metal parts heat and expand etc., seemed to help greatly with freeing any threads prone to being frozen. I will report back.
 
#29 ·
Update:

-- Getting the old spark plug tube seals out was the only problem I had. I could not see how they were pressed in. What was seal and what was valve cover was hard to discern until, after an hour I finally got one out. I used a tiny drill bit and drilled a few holes in the periphery of the one, then tapped like crazy until it popped out and I realized what I was dealing with. Each seal has the spring in the inner circle. The spring is easy to tear out. The outer circle of each seal is a very strong outer metal ring. Find a way to collapse the ring, using a tiny saw or maybe drill. Then use an old flat-head screwdriver and hammer to bang it out. I pressed in the new seals and tapped on them a little as well to get an even fit.

-- The PCV valve came out easily. Before removing, as noted above I applied PB Blaster to the threads and also torqued the valve in the tighten direction. When reinstalling, the manual prescribes a tightening torque of only 5.8 to 8.7 ft-lbs (due to the brass grommet).

-- Like another thread notes, the three half-moon seals appeared to be metal and not leaking. I am not sure they are meant to be replaced. I left them in; scraped off the old sealant; and applied "Hondabond 4" to the tops of the metal half-moons and also around the recesses of the passenger side, timing belt sprocket region.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I changed my valve cover gasket last year, but it was not good and oil started to leak again in a few months. When I checked it last week, oil was running down toward timing belt covers and to crankshaft and the drive belts were screeching in the morning.
I checked ebay and Four Green Auto Supply was selling Hyundai OEM valve cover (gasket included) for incredible $139! I called Hyundai dealers and they ask for $450! My order just arrived and the kit included a pair of leather gloves.
I am going to change the whole valve cover and gasket this weekend. It will save me a lot of time since I don't have to struggle to remove and clean all the silicone and dirt. Moreover, the valve cover is OEM and brand new and I won't have any trouble at least for next ten years.
 
#32 · (Edited)
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Hi all. After some time I decided to change the valve gasket and see if the 2000 miles oil change had a good effect on the oil sludge that my car has. It seems to be better but nothing impressive. Also I had to change one spark plug seal because it was totally destroyed. All went well so far. Here are some pictures. 2 Years ago it was worse!

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#33 ·
I think your engine needs total flush. I don't think valve cover gasket change will do anything for sludge. It is a sign of neglect. When I changed my valve cover at around 300,000 miles, I didn't see any sludge and it was like new condition. I still get 33-35 mpg at 332,000 miles.
 
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