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error code P0016 - Cam/Crank position sensor

22K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  Tommy 
#1 ·
OK, figured Id start a new thread in the appropriate section.

Im sure some have been following my disastrous attempt at an F/I, this is the continuation of my troubles.

I had a lifter stuck the other day. Got that cleared up, no more knocking.

Today, Ive got a car with NO power. Just struggles to get moving. Got a CEL and it came up P0016.

First I checked all the wiring, it seems ok. Then I checked the timing, everything is lined up there. Then I replaced the sensors, still the same thing.

Im completely stumped, and have run out of ideas..
 
#2 ·
You are going to need that new motor. That one seems to have seen better days. And to comment on the problem in the other thread, I used to use 10w30 oil, thinking performance you know. I fail!! 5w30 is so much better, and the engine responds better. I'm thinking the loss in power, originally, before this thread, was that the heavier weighted oil is the cause for loss of power.
 
#4 ·
No, its not the oil. This is like driving on 3cly.
 
#5 ·
Actually, that's not entirely true. And I'll explain briefly, so as not to stray off topic too far. I used 10w30 in Florida, where a thicker oil was necessary (IMO) for better heat protection and I also drag raced the car there, at Orlando Speedworld. The thicker oil had a higher boiling point and was capable of keeping everything lubed at higher rpms and greater engine heat. That's the performance I refer to, not in HP (as everyone seems to think performance refers to), but in the ability to not LOSE HP when in High Heat situations.
 
#6 ·
Ok, thats completely off topic, but ill address it anyways...

10w30 vs 5w30 - there's no difference at operating temp.

I usually use 5w20, but still, this isnt an oil issue.
 
#7 ·
Nope, not an oil issue now. I can't even imagine how you feel about it now. I assume you replaced the sensor with the one you had on the old motor right?

Seems like something is off, that more damage was done to the internals than you realize. It was a lifter making the noise right? That contacts the cam shafts, which are connected together. Could they possibly have skipped some teeth or something? Somehow sending the timing out of whack?
 
#8 ·
thats what im looking at again now.

i dunno, im beyond frustrated. need a new word.
 
#9 ·
Maybe you still have a sticky lifter or something. Since it was a junkyard motor, I'd change the oil again and put in a qt of trans fluid with the oil. Run it for a little bit then change the oil again. With any luck, it just has some gunk in the actual motor from sitting for so long.
 
#13 ·
Boy, you guys just love blabbering, don't you? This is the help section, isn't it?

Did you check the timing belt? Timing belt could be loose or jumped some teeth. Take the top timing belt cover off and do an inspection. How about the actual alignment of the cam sensor? Did you leave the extra piece of gasket in there when you changed it? How is the wiring harness? Take the harness apart and look for corrosion.
 
#14 ·
um...so how exactly do you have a stuck SOLID lifter?? Hydraulic yes...solid no.

the cam literally pushes down on the tappet with the shim inbetween...you would have to have some serious oil issues if the tappet was to get stuck, if that were the case you need a new motor.

you can also check the cam/crank sensor back back probing them and turning the motor over by hand. you will see the volts go from 0v to 5v...if it reads anything inbetween then you have a sensor issue.
 
#15 ·
um...so how exactly do you have a stuck SOLID lifter?? Hydraulic yes...solid no.

the cam literally pushes down on the tappet with the shim inbetween...you would have to have some serious oil issues if the tappet was to get stuck, if that were the case you need a new motor.

you can also check the cam/crank sensor back back probing them and turning the motor over by hand. you will see the volts go from 0v to 5v...if it reads anything inbetween then you have a sensor issue.

Dont know what to tell you, cause once i flushed the engine and changed the oil, it has been quiet ever since.

As far as my power issue, i pulled the timing belt off, and reset everything, and now it seems ok. I have no idea how it would have jumped a tooth, but apparently it got out of wack somehow. There was too much tension on the belt before, and Im still worried about it, but right now it seems to be running like it should.
 
#16 ·
I agree that having a stuck solid lifter doesn't make much sense... But what I am thinking maybe, only1db, that perhaps the crud was making it so that there was some hindering in the movement of the assembly and the next cycle would catch it halfway on its way back? That isn't clear really, but that's the best I could do, lol.



 
#18 ·
If you guys are confused, you should be in my shoes.

If the timing belt was off a notch, i have no idea how it got that way, and how I managed to miss it when I looked at it 3-4 times. I could have sworn it was straight.

And even if it was, how the hell did it jump, then jump back, then jump forward again?? As i said in the other thread, it happened, ran like crap, then it started running fine, then it died again
 
#19 ·
Something similar happened to me before and it threw the same cel code and in my case it was a timing issue. I corrected the time old school way (a screwdriver and moving the engine manually). That does not seem to be your problem and not a valve/cam issue either since power comes and goes. It has to be electrical or wiring.

Just in case, have you checked the connections on the coils or something related to them? How about the injectors?

Codes are guides if you have the OEM manual try any possible reason for that problem in that code flowchart and exclude the ones you already did.
 
#20 ·
kewlkat...that was the only thing i could think of....but usually the tap comes from the shims being too warn and the assy gets a little sloppy and "slaps" the lobe of the cam as it slides over.


the way to check the timing, that i have found is with a flash light...as small penlight works best...point through the hole in the cam and look at hte red mark on the head...if its in the middle of the light then your good.

sometimes i have had the purposely rotate the crank back half a tooth and then when you tighten the belt it straightens itself out.

if you use a 5mm allen wrench and look above the 14mm bolt and the 5mm hole should line up...this will ensure that you did not over tighten the belt. the belt will also make a Wurring sounds when its too tight.
 
#21 ·
Well, it made it another day without breaking down. Up to 3 days in a row.

keeping my fingers crossed thats for sure.
 
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