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Speaker/Amp Install?

8K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  mrhoaf 
#1 · (Edited)
Im going to be getting speakers and a 4ch amp for my car but the problem is I don't know anything about installing this stuff. I installed my headunit but that was it. I went to the only local 2 audio places and the cheapest estimate was w/o buying thier overpriced speakers. (pioneers from them $109-$69 from cardomain with shipping) $45 for rear speaker install, $60 for door speaker, $75 for amp install and $60 for amp kit! WTF! $259.20 Total is that how much it really costs?! I didn't want to do it myself but for that price it seems trial and error would be alot cheaper the materials for them were $60 so i am paying $180 for labor. And the owner got pissed when i told her that i wanted to get speakers from cardomain and crutchfield. " Lemme tell you sumthin about buying that crap from online! I WON'T replace anything with my product if that stuff breaks". i told her that it was ok because i can get replacements cheaper too. WTF she got pissed because im trying to save money best buy sales the same product she carries for less too! So how hard is it to do this myself I know I have to take the seats out and stuff but are there any complete tutorials to doing this for someone who never tried at all!

And I need an amp she tried to sell me a JVC amp and a Planet Audio that was 120x4 but my speakers are suppose to handle up to 60 so won't that blow them? Crutchfield told me to get thisalpine
Thanks.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
It's not too hard. The hardest part is if you're going to try to put the amp wiring kit's positive lead (amp wiring kits available online for $20-$40 depending on your amp's power requirements) through the firewall. You can fish the wire through the door sill plastic covers to the back. Mounting the amp is a different story -- I still haven't found a good place to mount mine.

However, For the front door speakers:
Put your front windows down first. The front doors are held on with seven screws (two where the door meets the dashboard, two under little round covers where the door latch is, two at the bottom of the door under the storage pocket, and the one in the door handle -- pull the door handle back cover out after you remove the screw). The black interior sail panels need to be removed -- they just pop off; just pry them away from the door frame gently. Once all the screws and the sail panels are removed, pull gently on the bottom of the door skin to release the two push-in plastic clips -- one near the speaker and one near the courtesy light. Then lift the door skin up and off of the door frame -- it hooks in where the window slot is.

The hardest part is then to get your hand between the door skin and door to unplug the wire harnesses to the power windows, door lights and courtesy light (and the mirror adjustment switch on the driver's side. You have to unplug the harnesses to fully remove the skin.

The front speakers sit in plastic frames that are approximately the size of 6-3/4" speakers. You may need to trim the frame to fit your speakers with a rotary tool, and I'd suggest you de-solder the connectors from the factory speakers and solder them on to the new speaker connections -- look at the polarity first; I think the green wire is the positive one. That way you can just plug in your new speakers once they're mounted.

I also pried the ~1/2" deep cardboard ring off of the factory front speakers and glued them onto my aftermarket speakers. Those tubes help the speaker seal against the door skin and keep the sound from being muffled by the door skin.

The door skins go on the exact reverse as they come off. To take the door skins off and put them back on (without factoring in the time to mount the new speakers) takes all of 20 minutes at most.

You may want to order speakers from Crutchfield for the sheer fact that they'll give you a diagram of how to remove your door skins, dash bezel, rear speakers, etc. and give you adapter plates and adapter harnesses for your new speakers so you don't have to desolder the factory ones. It's worth the extra few bucks.

As far as needing specific speakers, most of the 6-3/4" speakers will work fine with that amount of head unit power. I'm using my head unit to power the front and rear speakers and the amp only drives the sub. The bass frequencies are where you need the power anyway, so if you use a high pass filter for the four midrange-high 6-3/4" speakers and a low-pass filter for the sub (built in to a lot of the newer head units already), then you only need an amp for the sub.
 
#4 ·
hey man....hit me up on instant messenger...i can prolly help you out if you wanna drive down here for the day...my s/n is evan938 on AIM
 
#5 ·
So it seems like spending the extra money on crutchfield will save on install cost. but what about the rear speakers are they easy to install? And I was told that I could get the pioneer ts-a1690 6x9s but when I called crutchfield about it they said it won't work because the tweeter sticks up too far. Could I just take out the hyundai grill and use the pioneer grill instead, and if so how would i keep it out of sight because something like that would attract thieves.
 
#6 ·
the joke is on them for the speaker install.... they charge more for front speakers, but the rear speakers are harder to change in our cars....

Let me reccommend you get component speakers for the front. Spend the money you save by installing it yourself on components and you will be glad you did. I got them and was really impressed with how they sound compaired to stock, or even cheap speakers. You get alot more bass out of them, and they usually handle more power. Get something for the back that can handle the power from your amp, but don't spend too much on them... 'cause most of the sound you hear is from the front speakers anyway.

To get back on track... my amp is mounted on the back of the right rear seat, that way if i want to tweak it, i just fold the seat down.

I was lucky and worked at Circuit City when I got my system.... parts and installation for about half price!
 
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