Well Since everyone else . . . I will too! Boost time??

[ki11er90]

found the turbo I want, updated first post


Well maybe not . . . a T25 flange wont fit a T3 flange im assuming . . . right?

[TSmooth8403]

found the turbo I want, updated first post


Well maybe not . . . a T25 flange wont fit a T3 flange im assuming . . . right?

........No

[dmdicks]

You won't be able to control the WRX injectors enough with the SMT6. You'll either need to put them in a 2nd fuel rail or buy a FIC to control them.

[ki11er90]

Okay, ive started searching for the AEM FIC.

Here is another question.

would using something like this give me any issues? T3-T25 adapter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-FLANGE-T2...ht_3135wt_1037

[Kman Tib]

Might put turbo low for getting a good drain line. I don't think you need the decomp plate/gasket for just 10-12psi but if you feel the need then go right ahead, I personally am not running it and am doing just fine - and pure street/track tune as there's no dyno here. Just saying it can be done if you got some paitience and know what you are doing with tuning. I'm biassed but I love my TF10 tuner with the dual rail setup - no need to have to mess with STFTs If I were you and going with installing the Decomp. plate I'd definitely go with a bigger turbo and run more boost, get my money/labour's worth out of it.

Don't think the 5th injector setup is recommended with anything over like 9 psi or so - the higher the boost run the more uneven the distribution will be between the cylinders, but I could be wrong there.

[ki11er90]

My only worry is that my car has 120k miles on it. If it were a newer engine I would probably say forget the decomp plate. I might up the boost a bit, just ganna start with 12 and see how it goes.


So I could do a 2nd fuel rail with the SMT-6? I think that is going to be the cheaper option.

Any suggestions on the fuel rail?

And what size turbo do you recommend.

[Kman Tib]

Do a compression test and get an idea of the health of the motor. Lots of mileage don't necessarily mean will go bang. The SMT6 will work with dual fuel rail, so will the TF10. The dual rail kit from Jattus comes with the fuel rail so no need to worry about it. Other things to consider with the TF10 which I like is that it has built in electronic boost control, launch control and can advance and retard timing - so IMO less money to spend for at least an electronic boost controller. I also see where some people need/use the Turbo Black Box with the SMT6 but I'm not sure if your setup will need it - Dave is probably the best man to give his thoughts on that.

Turbo wise depends on your power goals, manifold choice and whether or not you do install the decomp plate - I'm no expert there so I'll leave someone else to recommend that, I usually get help there.

[nick124]

Might put turbo low for getting a good drain line. I don't think you need the decomp plate/gasket for just 10-12psi but if you feel the need then go right ahead, I personally am not running it and am doing just fine

How much are you boosting and how long have you had it turbo'd for?

[ki11er90]

Do you have any other suggestions for dual fuel rails besides jattus?

[Kman Tib]

How much are you boosting and how long have you had it turbo'd for?

I have 2 maps changeable with a switch. One I run 8psi and the other I have 12psi but that 12 psi I haven't perfected the tune and also wanted to go for 15psi so don't use it much, I have it too rich. Was in the process of fine tuning it but then the track closed down so no use for it at the moment other than occasionally to flog a Honda or something at a light if they annoy me enough - no over the top street racing tho I just give them a short lesson/beating then let them go if they choose to continue. Dave was major help with aiding me to understand the software and know what te engine will take so props due to him.

Do you have any other suggestions for dual fuel rails besides jattus?

AtelierHP is the only other place I know of that make a dual fuel rail kit for us, unless you wanna go reinventing the wheel for our engine with welding in some injector bosses into the intake manifold or something - not recommended, too much work and prescision involved to get them right.

[2LiterRiceEater]

Alrighty, I'm in!

I'm gonna start off with the turbo. I am strongly against ebay turbochargers. I would use that money and buy something genuine, but used. Especially if you want to get a manifold built custom. Find a DSM'er for example (I use this a lot because I am a DSM owner) that will sell you a 13G (auto 1G) 14B (manual 1G) T-25 (any 2G). You can get any of those for under $100. And Mitsubishi built some amazing turbo's, they are so ****ing hard to kill. They're not picky on oil, and will just keep going and going. Rebuilding is cheap. Flanges are cheap. o2 housings, you find everywhere.

Anyways... As for internal vs external: If you choose internal, it's not all that difficult. As long as you have the room to accomodate the wastegate actuator, you'll be fine internally gated. If the turbo comes internally gated and want to run external, you have 2 options: Weld the flapper shut and run the WG off the manifold off one of the runners, or remove the flapper and run the WG on the o2 housing (on some this is not possible, however).

As for the 420cc injectors, those should do you good up to about 12-15 PSI on a small turbo. I am not familiar with 5th injector setups, and dual rails, and all that crap. We run a single rail with 4 injectors, and that's it.

You will need a fuel pump, I suggest a Walbro 190 or 255. Any of those can be had for $100 new. You will need an AFPR of course with a gauge.

May I also suggest upgrading the clutch while you're in there, as well as stiffening up the engine mounts a bit more to help prevent wheel hop.

Install your WBo2 gauge, and start learning to look at it constantly under WOT. The AEM UEGO is a good and popular setup. Very easy to wire in (2 wires if you're not logging it, 3 if you are). This will quickly become one of the most important gauges in your car.

As for the electronic boost controller... skip this completely. It is not worth it. There's no need to spend all the money for one if you're planning to cut corners on a cheap ****ty turbo. You're not going to be adjusting the boost much, and when you do... it doesn't take long to get out, lift the hood, turn the dial and do another 2nd-3rd gear pull to check. Same with the turbo timer. Don't beat the **** out of it up until you pull into your driveway. If you drive it hard, drive it hard until 2-5 minutes from your destination, followed by driving normally. Then you can shut it off right away. ESPECIALLY if the turbo is water cooler. Turbo timers are more for oil-only-cooled CHRA's.

Exhaust: 2.5"-3", mandrel-bent from the turbo to the back. Run a high flow cat, or remove completely if you can. Use a straight through muffler, same size as your piping, and add one or 2 resonators if you want to keep it more quiet. 2.5" will be more than enough, but it will not hurt anything to go with a 3" especially if you plan to be making a lot more power in the future.

Intercooler piping/core/BOV: Mandrel-bent 2.5" is perfect. For a core, try finding something 2.5-3" thich, 6-8" tall, and 22-26" long. As for a BOV, you can find an used brand-name one for a good price. Knock off's, again, don't work as well. This right here plays a major role in sealing the system. Boost leaks are a no-no, and a leaky/poorly operating BOV is no good. All it will do, it make the turbo run harder to try and keep the desired boost level. It will just create more hot air, and will be running beyond it's efficiency level.

Want a good BOV? For CHEAP? Find one from a 1G DSM. They sell for $20-$30, and with a $2 mod, they can hold up to 30-40 PSI of boost on a 65lb/min turbo. They don't have the ricer sound you would expect from a Greddy Type S, but they cost a fraction of the price, and hold 3 times as much. By the way, this is the same BOV that Subaru uses on their turbo applications, and the same one you find on Skylines as well as the GTR. If you don't believe me, do some research.

There's some food for thought

[ki11er90]

I will definitely look into the DSM turbo and Bovs, ill just go find one that is being parted out, shouldnt be too hard.

I was looking at the godspeed because it has a 1 year warranty so I figured it couldnt be too bad, not complete and utter crap lol but I will put some time looking at the DSMs. You got any turbos laying around the house you want to sell me???

Found a few used T25 turbos on craigslist, here are the two, let me know what you think.

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/2835446580.html
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/2850069199.html

The one with the 240 is asking 140 for the turbo an manifold so I figured maybe I can get the Turbo off him for like $100.


My exhaust is good, I have no cats and it is all 2.5, muffler is actually 3.

[2LiterRiceEater]

I actually had about 4 spares. I had 3 14B's and one 16G. The 16G and one 14B is sold. Another 14B needs a rebuild (170,000 original miles on it lol), and the last is super low miles, clean, and I'm keeping it as a spare for now. I have a few DSM manifolds, but I'm not sure how well those could bolt up to the BETA head, as well as the turbo location...



All this turbo talk makes me feel like throwing together my own setup for the Elantra. I have enough spares I'm hoarding that I wouldn't need more than a few hundred bucks worth of stuff to get it boostin'.

[ki11er90]

Do it!

ive got my eyes on a manifold for the beta engine so that wont be a big deal.

What about those turbos i posted for craigslist, what do you think.

[nick124]

I'm right down the street to support you 2litre! I'm the one that will probably need more guidance though lol.

[Kman Tib]

What about those turbos i posted for craigslist, what do you think.

Man it looks so cute! AKA small...other than that I guess it depends on your manifold choice so you can know how it will mount to the manifold and if you will have any clearance issues for how the turbo will mount up and/or issue running the turbo drain line if an adaptor will be used. Personally I'd go for a used Mitsubishi Evo turbo and possibly manifold if you don't want to buy a manifold new - there's always Evo guys upgrading so they're dime a dozen out there. The Evo 8/9 manifold can be modified to fit if you have a dremel and can take it to a machine shop for some welding/drilling work. That's what I did so maybe I'm a little biased there Worked out quite cheap for me tho and I got a tubular manifold with the turbo from a friend of mine that was upgrading his turbo.

[ki11er90]

What would I have to do to make this work with my car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STOCK-WRX-TD...#ht_500wt_1287

im just scoping out my options.... I dont know what the best options are!

[MagicMayo]

dont get a turbo that was on a subaru...it will be more of a pain in the *** to get it to fit than you want to deal with. you would either have to get a flange welded onto your manifold that it will bolt up to or get a different exhaust housing for the turbo. its what im currently dealing with because i didnt know the inlet flange was a 3 bolt triangle gay POS lol. not worth the headache IMO

[ki11er90]

hahaha okay.

I contacted a local guy, and ima get a T25.

That will be a good start, im not looking for large amounts of power and it start spooling at 1800 rpms.

[2LiterRiceEater]

1,800? Holy I forgot what that feels like haha I agree however. The T-25 will be good for the setup you're planning. It barely flows enough to get out of it's own way, let alone do damage as easily. It will be great for initial setup, tuning, and a few weeks of fun before the boost bug bites and you want more