How to replace front brakes and rotors...

[footprintsincon]

I just changed out my front rotor and disc brakes on my 2005 elantra GT at 122k miles. its fairly simple unless your rotor wont come off. its still quite simple.

you will need just the basic tools:
ratchet
14mm, 17mm sockets
phillips screw driver
brake cleaner fluid
C clamp or a brake caliper piston tool

here is a video of how i did it.....if your rotor is stuck on, then look at the video in this thread.



share your thoughts, suggestions and recommendations!

[only1db]

Hyundai is spelled wrong...

gloves? really? haha you can destroy the heads you do not NEED those screws. The wheel does a pretty good job of holding the rotor on and straight. The brackets from the factory are actually silicone based on the sliding edge...not sure if the new ones are the same...they may start to get squeaky after a time. One more thing...if you pop the top to the master cylinder you can push the caliper back in without much force at all. If not you can damage the seals from excessive pressure. (dont know if you had done that or not...just a suggestion for others)

one last thing...edit is your friend could have cut that down to about 5 min. Otherwise, good job! oh and torque your lugs down to 80-90lbs of torque.

[NovaResource]

...if you pop the top to the master cylinder you can push the caliper back in without much force at all.

I do not agree with this. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing), which means it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. This is why the system should be kept closed at all times except when flushing the system. Unless you overfilled the system by adding fluid when the brakes were worn, there is no need to open the master.

If not you can damage the seals from excessive pressure. (dont know if you had done that or not...just a suggestion for others)

Key phrase there is excessive pressure. Trust me, you pushing the pistons back in is not excessive pressure. Especially compared with the pressure the system puts on the seals when using the brakes.

A tool like this is all you need to compress the piston back in the caliper.



Like this on the front pistons that don't need to be rotated:




On rear calipers that need the pistons rotated you can use a similar tool with pins that rotate the piston:

NO:


YES:

or

[footprintsincon]

LOL, yeah, i noticed the spelling mistake after i compiled it with youtube editor.....it took forever to compile, so i didnt fix it.

what program do you use to edit videos? i am really new to this and youtube editor allows you to remove from the beginning or end of the clip, not from the center. if i know how to edit the video from the middle of the clip, i'd cut out some of the stuff.

thank you for the comments + suggestions!

[only1db]

^ i just use window video maker. It is actually pretty easy to use. All the vids that i have done, i have used that.

Nova really? the whole 5 mins that it is exposed is not going to draw in enough moisture to damage anything.

[NovaResource]

Nova really? the whole 5 mins that it is exposed is not going to draw in enough moisture to damage anything.

Yes, really. There is no reason to open the master cylinder just to replace brake pads/shoes. None. The master is designed to have the level drop as the pads/shoes wear and then allow the level to rise when the caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are pushed back in.

[footprintsincon]

^ i just use window video maker. It is actually pretty easy to use. All the vids that i have done, i have used that. .....

is that window essentials: movie maker? is this the right link?

[only1db]

Yes, really. There is no reason to open the master cylinder just to replace brake pads/shoes. None. The master is designed to have the level drop as the pads/shoes wear and then allow the level to rise when the caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are pushed back in.

and you put un needed pressure on the system while doing that. it generally is used to going one way...so putting pressure on it the opposite way can do damage.


on my tool bar for windows 7 its "Windows Live movie maker"

[NovaResource]

and you put un needed pressure on the system while doing that. it generally is used to going one way...so putting pressure on it the opposite way can do damage.

Wrong again. You don't understand how the system works. Fluid goes both ways every time you step on and off the brake. If you are worried about pressure a better procedure is to open the bleeder screw when pressing the piston back in. Totally unecessary and you will have to top off the master when you are done.

[only1db]

highest pressure is while pushing forward...almost none while going backwards...yes opening the bleeder would be optimal, but if you do not have brake fluid around or dont want to bother...pop the top.

[NovaResource]

Again, THERE IS NO NEED TO OPEN THE MASTER. THERE IS NO PRESSURE CREATED WHEN PRESSING THE PISTON BACK IN.

You do not understand how the system works so please stop giving people bad information.

[only1db]

YES there is...on the back side...there is air in there because the fluid level has dropped...so when you push the fluid back the level rises...by popping the cap the pressure on the backside in the master is relieved....Common sense not only dictates that but so does the copious amounts of brake jobs i have done. It is much easier...especially when your doing the rear brakes and using that stupid like square tool.

[NovaResource]

YES there is...on the back side...there is air in there because the fluid level has dropped...so when you push the fluid back the level rises...by popping the cap the pressure on the backside in the master is relieved.

^^^ PROOF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT.

The system is SEALED. Air DOES NOT get into the system when the level drops. This is why is there no pressure when the pistons are pressed back in. If air got in, so would humidity and water.

YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT BECAUSE YOU DON'T KNOW HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS. Stop giving out bad information.

[only1db]

i will agree to disagree...the first time i tried putting in the rear brakes on my car the last cylinder was incredibly hard to push/twist in....alas popped the top and bingo easy peasy...

I'll agree to disagree with you...sometimes experiencing something is better then just reading about it.

[NovaResource]

the first time i tried putting in the rear brakes on my car the last cylinder was incredibly hard to push/twist in....alas popped the top and bingo easy peasy...

That just proves you don't know what you are doing.

Go to http://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ and look-up the procedure for replacing the brake pads. Now show me where in the procedure listed it says to open the master cylinder before pressing the pistons back in the calipers.

sometimes experiencing something is better then just reading about it.

Based on your age, I was changing brakes on cars while you were eating glue in 1st grade.

[only1db]

failure to communicate...yep its been that way for a long time...

[NovaResource]

failure to communicate...yep its been that way for a long time...

Well it's failure to understand for you... and it's been that way for a longer time.