I have an '03 GK I4 5-speed with 50,100 miles on it.
Recently, I've noticed a ticking noise coming from the engine --- from what I can discern, immediately under the valve cover. Its frequency is engine-speed dependent. The noise does not disappear when clutch is disengaged (by pressing clutch pedal; this likely eliminates clutch release bearing as the cause).
I know Hyundai prescribes a valve adjustment at 60k if I am not mistaken. I've already performed a timing belt service on my GK.
How loud and pronounced can the valves be if the prescribed valve adjustment has not occurred?
I guess I'm just trying to determine what exactly is making the noise and the probability that it is the valves before I get my hands dirty.
beta1's have Hydrolic valvetrain which DOESNT need adjustment
however
beta2's have MECHANICAL lifters which can be and do need to be adjusted. infact i need a valve job done on mine aswell its something i was gonna try to get done over the summer
I'm at 130k and I have the ticking you're talking about. Its fairly annoying I think. Reece (arunsenior) also has the noise and is at high mileage. I plan to do a VCA but in order to do that I have to find time.
Mine has 58k and valve ticking. Very annoying, but not enough of a problem for me to spend any money on it right now.
I assumed all new cars used hydraulic lifters. It's good to know they're not; at least I won't have that thought in the back of my head now... "maybe my hydraulic lifters are bad".
Not really, I know most, a lot of toyotas require valve adjustment. Not too sure about the new motors (the new 3.5l and such), but I do know the older ones required that.
The only valves I have ever adjusted were on a '86 Mazda 626. I don't remeber it being too difficult. Is it as simple as removing the valve cover to access the lifters with this engine?
I would like to know what exactly your going to adjust on the valve. thats a prty big project figuring that the valves are in the head. if you take the valve cover of off you will see the cams, lifters and springs, the valves themselves are in the head. so what is there really to adjust.
I meant valve clearance. On the 626 there were adjustment screws on the rockers. All I had to do was loosen the adjuster screw, set the cylinder at TDC, insert the proper feeler guage, and then re-tighten the screw.
there is a special tool that makes it effortless...the pain is finding the right size shim.
you have to use feeler gauges and check your clearences....
lets also remember that solid lifters are noisy period...some tick is going to be there no matter what...again if i reduces itself after fifteen minutes of idling or by simply driving...its not necessary to put new shims in....and there is a TSB for a ticking in the motor due to aftermarket oil filters. that too may be the problem.
I've noticed in mine that the injectors are more noisy than the lifters. Listen to both to figure out which it is. Even if they are noisy, nothing will break, you'll just loose very little power from the engine since the valve won't be opening to the maximum allowable spec.
I'd guess the timing belt being too tight for the whine. Mines a tad right right now and I need to loosen it.
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