04 Elantra rear drum to disc conversion...Part I [Archive] - Hyundai Elantra Forum

: 04 Elantra rear drum to disc conversion...Part I



bfgoedeke
03-30-2006, 07:14 PM
I finally did. I'am not disappointed. It looks and works as good or better than I thought. I figure I'll make this a guide as to what I did, step by step. (maybe it might become a D.I.Y. piece, who knows). Before I begin, I just wanted to mention a couple things. 1- This is not for the faint of heart, or for the inexperienced. 2- If you do attempt this or any project like this, make sure you have every conceivable part you are going to require beforehand. 3- Do your research. Find out what parts are required to be replaced to accomodate a swap or change. 4- Make sure you have the proper tools to do something like this. This will reduce aggravation and down time. I 'am am going to post this in two parts. First, the removal process. Then, the conversion and install. I condensed the pics to only what is needed to be seen to explain as I go along;

1 - I started by raising and properly supporting my vehicle by the rear crossmember. Then I removed my rear tires;
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/8581/brake15my.jpg
(Tip: I sprayed all applicable bolts with Liquid wrench the day before)

2- Next, remove the drums. If you happen to strip that pain in the ^$## machine screw, with a small drill bit you can drill it out.
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/4027/brake32wx.jpg

3- After removing the drum, remove the center hub cap. With an 1 1/4 socket, loosen the hub retaining nut. USe a breaker bar, because this nut is torqued to 180 ft/lbs. Remove the hub. If your drum is frozen on, remove the hub and drum together, than tap the hub off the drum. The hub is re-usable. Do not throw away.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8558/brake48nc.jpg

4- Remove the front and back brake shoe retaining springs.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8745/brake52ak.jpg

5 - Remove as an assembly. There is a retaining clip behind the backing plate that holds the brake cable in place. Remove it first. Then, disconnect your parking brake cable.
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/636/brake63cx.jpg

6 - Disconnect and remove the brake hose. (The replacement hose has a special fitting to accomodate the caliper) Discard. Save any and all clips for the brake hose. Remove the four bolts from the backing plate. Remove the backing plate.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8092/brake75rv.jpg

7 - What remains is the spindle (knuckle). Spray all the bolts on the suspension parts. And start loosening them. Usually, the long bolt is sometimes a problem. From soaking everything in lube, it came out without much difficulty..
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/7454/brake90hh.jpg

8 - Remove all the bolts, and then the spindle (knuckle).
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/6949/brake102ze.jpg

Here is the difference between the two knuckles: right - drum. Left - disk.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/1185/brake1125in.jpg
I bought a rear suspension off an 03 with ABS for about $200, in a Staten Island junkyard. The knuckles, brand new from the dealer, $300. Online, best price $228. And thats for one, not two.

9 - Re-install new knuckle with lots of never-seize. I replace the long bolt with a new one and torqued to spec's.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/2470/brake123sp.jpg
Here ends part I. I'll need a day or so for part 2...........

05TidalWave
03-30-2006, 07:21 PM
You are a god for this DIY.... People have been asking about this for a LONG time. Thanks!

j0hnh0lmes
03-30-2006, 07:21 PM
I'm so glad my 04 gls auto came with all round disc

silversharkXD2
03-30-2006, 07:46 PM
Dude...I mean come on.....

this is the worst write up ever...

that is of course if you can't read english...cause if you can, it F'in rocks!!!!

Nice job. Many Kudos for takin it upon yourself to be the first to try.

Will be awaiting the rest of it for sure. :bowdown:
the only thing that would make it rock even more is....

can anyone guess...

that's right kids....

Part numbers.

Keyan
03-30-2006, 08:06 PM
I need part numbers for the NON ABS parts...lol.

bfgoedeke
03-30-2006, 08:12 PM
I'll include a parts list in part 2 with prices..ABS parts and non-ABS are interchangable unless you have ABS to begin with..

yamaha
03-30-2006, 08:18 PM
Damn man, finding a junked tiburon with the four lug design or xd gt would of been alot easier. The knuckles would of ligned right up. But I give you props, your the first one in a XD to go this.

robs02elantra
03-30-2006, 10:50 PM
first one to do a diy, hasn't tricked already finished this, or was he halfway through it?

evan938
03-30-2006, 10:54 PM
i think he tried to use RD rear setup which doesnt fit

bfgoedeke
04-01-2006, 08:39 AM
I just wanted to make a few comments before I begin; 1- The first part involved disassembly, nothing was changed yet. Hence, no part #'s. 2 - Rough crowd. I figure I document what I did in two parts, because of all the pictures I have to upload and host. ( It got a little tedious). 3 - To anyone else, I apologize for the inconvience. I will include part #'s in this section....
I obtained the entire rear suspension off a wrecked 2003 Elantra (not RD), that had ABS on it for $200. I re-used the knuckles, calipers, brake hoses, and any attaching hardware. (Knuckles- Hyundai part #52750-29100 - left hand, # 52760-29100 - Right hand.) From the dealer they're about $280 - $300 a piece. Aftermarket about $200 - $220 a piece. In regards to ABS, the parts will fit non-abs. The only difference is that they're are extra mounting points on the knuckle for the wheel speed sensors. Calipers and other items are the same ,and will fit.
I cleaned, and glass-beaded the knuckles. Then, coated them with hi-temp black paint. The pic shows difference between the drum and disc knuckles. The left (disc) knuckle also has the extra mounting point for the ABS wheel speed sensor, which doesn't affect anything.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/1185/brake1125in.jpg

Now, I started to install the knuckle. I re-used the trailing arm bolt, and the two strut bolts. I bought two extra suspension arm bolts ( the long one), in case I had to beat the old ones out. Hyundai part #62617-1700 -bolt, and # 33131-42000 nut. Bolts are sold in pairs, and nuts in a four piece package. Every bolt that I use the install the knuckle , got a good coating of never-seize.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/2470/brake123sp.jpg

I mounted the knuckle, and torqued the bolts to spec; rear suspension arm mounting bolt ( long bolt) 118-133 ft. lbs, rear strut lower mounting bolts 81-96 ft. lbs., and rear trailing arm to rear carrier 74-89 ft.lbs. (As per Hyundai service manual). The I bolt on the dust shield ( Hyundai part #58243-29300 LH, #58244-29300 RH). The only issue I had with the cover is one mounting hole had to be enlarged a little bit. Next, I re-used the wheel hub assembly and mounted it to the knuckle. Yes, thats right, the hub is re-useable and will fit. Torque the castle nut to spec. (159-192 ft. lbs.) and staked it into the groove on the spindle. No cotter pins are required.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1431/hub18lb.jpg

At this point I had to change the parking brake cables. Hyundai part #59760-2D330 LH ($50.29), and #59770-2D330 RH (83.82). Why one costs more?? Don't have a clue. Same length, nothing really different. Even the parts guy was puzzled. But no cable. no parking brake. The cables have 3 mounting tabs. The cables snake underneath, and into the center tunnel. The last mount tab holds it in from underneath.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6785/pb20za.jpg

You have to remove the center console to get to it. Pop off the shifter cover.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4167/con14pd.jpg

Remove three screws on each side, then remove the console.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7344/con21ox.jpg

Now you have full access to the cables from the inside.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2431/pb12ek.jpg

After changing the cables, I replaced the brake hoses. The difference is the (banjo) fitting that attached to the caliper.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/3117/bh20bp.jpg

Note: I had a major issue with the hoses. THe parts guy gave me the wrong ones. The end that connects to the hard line (metal) had a different fitting on the end. The metal line on the car has a bubble (ISO / metric) type of flare on it. The hose require the opposite. (Thank God) I saved the old ones from the wreck. They fit perfectly. I think the Parts guy (dope...oops) got it wrong. I told him it was for ABS, and I think he ordered for TCS as well. I have to do more research on part #'s, sorry...I installed the hoses from the wreck.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/5696/bh12li.jpg

Now I can start with the caliper. Mount the parking brake cable guide onto the caliper. Note: another very important part. No bracket, no parking brake. I re-used this part from the wreck. Hyundai does not sell this piece seperately . It only comes in a caliper kit ( Hyundai part #58310-29A20 - LH, and #58320-29A20 - RH). Price was about $228.00 per side. I love junk yards. Here is the guide and cable installed..
http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/3867/pb58bs.jpg

Oh, if you are going to detail (paint) your calipers, now is the time to do it. I installed the rotor, caliper bracket, pads ( EBC greenstuff), and caliper. In that order..Note: The rotors are slotted / cross-drilled. I got them from Ebay. The name of the seller was R1 concepts. They come with silver zinc plating and costed $118 for the full set ( front and back)....
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8809/hub28mm.jpg

Now the caliper bracket and pads;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7991/hub31hc.jpg

Now the caliper;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7703/hub44rw.jpg

At this point, you need to bleed the brakes. Then adjust your parking brakes from the inside at the parking brake equilizer bracket. Specs call for 9 clicks maximum. ( adjusting nut is 12 mm)
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2431/pb12ek.jpg

Finished product;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/241/finish1pz.jpg

There you have it...If anyone needs pics, part #'s, etc, PM me. I'll be more than happy to provide them...I need to call it a day

Damn. I double posted................

Keyan
04-01-2006, 08:44 AM
Looks amazing. Do you have a picture or list of everything you pulled off the car from the junkyard and what wasn't reuseable and had to be bought?

Looks amazing, good job.


(btw you double posted)

bfgoedeke
04-01-2006, 09:48 AM
I got a small stock pile of left overs, but heres the pic when I picked it up..I sold the struts to IKE.
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/601/rear19if.jpg

Good the double post has been removed. Thank you...

Keyan
04-01-2006, 10:11 AM
Hey, just noticed you like in jersey...if I get the money, do you want to come with me to a junkyard to pick this stuff up? haha

SuperGLS
04-01-2006, 10:50 AM
Good stuff. Very good stuff.

Now if anyone wants to do this they know to take a trip to NJ, haha.

Keep up the good work.



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bfgoedeke
04-01-2006, 11:35 AM
Anyone can do it. It wasn't too bad. It also helped that I collected 98% of the parts ahead of time. It took About a day, not including the required beer breaks..This will also be ( hopefully), a valuable contribution to this highly butt-kickin' site. I hope part II will meet most people's expectations.
The fact that most of the parts came off a car with ABS doesn't matter. The parts bolt up the same, no difference or modification required. I don't know if ABS was an option on the models with rear drum. But if it were, simply re-use the old hub and make sure the knuckles are ABS style.
Brain-fart.......A kit would be nice. I'll stick to a parts list and let people shop for better prices. If anyone wants a complete parts, let me know. I'll email a list of everything I used.

03SilverBullet
04-01-2006, 11:40 AM
Looks good man!

evan938
04-01-2006, 11:52 AM
going to the junkyard today for the 50% off sale. i doubt theyll have what i need but i plan on getting any parts i can sell (ie, another rear disc conversion, 1.8 intake cam, if theres a GK tib, i WILL be stripping it)

txdproject
04-01-2006, 12:00 PM
Im guessing this diy is easier for the gt owners... cuz i wanna do a swap from the non vented discs to vented

in the back

Keyan
04-01-2006, 12:07 PM
Im guessing this diy is easier for the gt owners... cuz i wanna do a swap from the non vented discs to vented

in the back


gt owners already have rear disc. there is no conversion to do!

hyunelan2
04-01-2006, 12:13 PM
txdproject - All you need to do is change your rotors.


Great write-up on the drum-to-disc swap! I'm exstatic someone has actually FINALLY done this. This has been a constant question/thought of almost everyone from the beginning of EXD.

txdproject
04-01-2006, 12:15 PM
i think i might need the caliper from the front as well but thanks for the input

hyunelan2
04-01-2006, 12:21 PM
^^^No. If all you want is a drilled/slotted disc on the back, all you need is the drilled/slotted rotor. Caliper is the same. If you wanted a larger rotor in the back (unnecessary), then you will need different calipers.

txdproject
04-01-2006, 12:49 PM
awesome ... thanks for the help...

bfgoedeke
04-02-2006, 01:23 AM
Wow...great response...Not to get off topic, but I'am totally doing the may show in long island...I just hope no one notices my "Homey da Clown" tires...lol

evan938
05-16-2006, 04:54 PM
hehehe...bumping an old thread. hopefully bfgoedeke will catch this

if you replaced the whole rear knuckle, would it be a bit of a time saver to just disconnect anything going to the drum/assembly and just remove all the bolts holding it in (strut bolts, bolts holding the knuckle to the linkage in the rear) and just drop the whole set up out??

bfgoedeke
05-16-2006, 10:03 PM
Good point....problem is the donor vehicle parts came off alot harder than my own vehicle. Plus, I couldn't thoroughly clean and paint said parts without breaking everything down first. But if you wanted a quickie, wham, bam, thank you ma'am install, yeah you can do that.
When it comes to certain systems, like brakes, I rather be thorough from a safety viewpoint. I re-used my hubs, and replaced the calipers, rotors, etc. When using parts off a donor vehicle, I rather not second guess the integrity of certain parts. So, I tore everthing completely down, and decided which parts get tossed, or re-used..

CTele02
05-16-2006, 10:33 PM
Nice DIY, I saw alot of numbers up for the cost of parts but can you add up the total cost to you. Could you make a list/chart of each item used, along with its part number, and cost also if the part should be bought new or could be reused from an old junked gt elantra.

Im going to see what i come up with reading it over again:
-03 ABSE Junkyard rear suspension for reusable parts: $200
-Left Knuckle part #52750-29100: $300 OEM
-Right Knuckle part # 52760-29100: $300 OEM
-Bolts (2) #62617-1700 ???
-Nuts (4) #33131-42000 ???
-Left Dust Shield #58243-29300 ???
-Right Dust Shield #58244-29300 ???
-Left Parking Brake Cable #59760-2D330: $50
-Right Parking Brake Cable #59770-2D330: $84
-Left Caliper Kit #58310-29A20: $228
-Right Caliper Kit #58320-29A20: $228
-Aftermarket Rotors: $118

Total so far is about $1500 in parts! Well thats included the caliper kits, which you said you pieced out at the junk yard.

Also you should list the tools required for this diy.

evan938
05-17-2006, 12:40 AM
as i told you on AIM. the "rear suspension" you list for 200$ and the 300$ knuckles are the same thing. basically, you need knuckles, spindles, bearing, calipers/pads, rotors, cables, and misc nuts and bolts. shouldnt be more than 500$ from a junkyard

Tricked
05-17-2006, 09:48 AM
I was under the impression that the trailing arm would need to be swapped as well. I guess there is no difference?

bfgoedeke
05-17-2006, 09:49 AM
OK now that I know I recycled an ancient avatar so to speak, time to look for a different one......hmmmmmm
I listed the part #'s as a reference. In case someone wanted to buy rather than salvage, a given part. The only items I actually bought from the dealer were the parking brake cables, which are still not available aftermarket. The long bolts for the suspension arms, in case they didn't come off easy. I boogered the ones on the salvage unit. They where a pain to break loose, so i hacked em off with a sawz-all. And the dust shields, cause they where already boogered. The hubs are re-usable. They fit disk or drum all the same. I re-used mine because I know they were still good. Aftermarket rotors, pads, and rebuilt calipers was a personal choice.
I did price out every conceivable part, if I did it from scratch with new OEM parts. It came out closer to $1600, sticker shock. My cost with what I did was about in $500-$650 range. If I re-used 99%of the parts I salvaged, it would've been under $500 easy....I posted the project not only as a DIY, but also as a reference. I showed you what I did, and why I did it. Shortcuts are nice, but you miss certain things when you do that. I'am happy the way it came out. Brakes stop on a dime. Parking brake works good. ANd it looks good behind the rims. I've had a few people PM me for info. Its not as hard as it looks. Plus, rotors or pads go bad throw them out, slap new ones on. No adjustments, done in 20 mins. Can't do that with drum brakes.....

only1db
05-17-2006, 10:36 AM
nice write up!!

i'm glad i started out with discs!

elantra_mann84
06-04-2006, 09:28 PM
cany you use this for a 2003 will it work the same??

bfgoedeke
06-04-2006, 11:04 PM
I used parts off a wrecked 03 Elantra GLS. Had the junkyard remove the entire rear suspension. Carted it home and broke it down..

Note: The GLS had ABS which doesn't change anything for me, since my vehicle didn't come with it. The parts fit the same.

elantra_mann84
06-04-2006, 11:59 PM
kool ty much

AtlXD2
09-22-2006, 04:41 PM
so when buying new rotors and pads, you can just order 03 gls parts if you wanted?

did you really notice an improvement in your stopping ability?


is the list posted by CTele02 the final list of EVERYTHING I would need?

Did we ever get a tool list too? its seems like a straight-forward project, but I'd like to have my ducks in a row.

I've got an 05 gls with drums. Is there such a thing as an 04 or 05 with rear disks but no ABS? well you did say having abs or not was a moot point because the parts fit and work the same. would it be better to spend time trying to find a wrecked 04 or 05? Pretty much, if I were to find a wrecked car as long as I drop the entire rear suspension, I'd have everything I'd need (minus the parking cables) correct ? including hoses and screws and whatnot...right?



and if we're running Tib brakes up front...imagine the face on the parts guy. :confused:

Pete03GLS
03-27-2012, 03:10 AM
ill be doing this, r the ebrake cables the same between drum n rotor? or are they different, bcuz i already have new cables n was hoping i didnt have to get a different set for the calipers.

NovaResource
03-27-2012, 08:17 AM
ill be doing this, r the ebrake cables the same between drum n rotor? or are they different, bcuz i already have new cables n was hoping i didnt have to get a different set for the calipers.You know, you should actually read this whole thread before starting a job like this. Your question was answered almost 6 years ago. See red highlighted text.


I just wanted to make a few comments before I begin; 1- The first part involved disassembly, nothing was changed yet. Hence, no part #'s. 2 - Rough crowd. I figure I document what I did in two parts, because of all the pictures I have to upload and host. ( It got a little tedious). 3 - To anyone else, I apologize for the inconvience. I will include part #'s in this section....
I obtained the entire rear suspension off a wrecked 2003 Elantra (not RD), that had ABS on it for $200. I re-used the knuckles, calipers, brake hoses, and any attaching hardware. (Knuckles- Hyundai part #52750-29100 - left hand, # 52760-29100 - Right hand.) From the dealer they're about $280 - $300 a piece. Aftermarket about $200 - $220 a piece. In regards to ABS, the parts will fit non-abs. The only difference is that they're are extra mounting points on the knuckle for the wheel speed sensors. Calipers and other items are the same ,and will fit.
I cleaned, and glass-beaded the knuckles. Then, coated them with hi-temp black paint. The pic shows difference between the drum and disc knuckles. The left (disc) knuckle also has the extra mounting point for the ABS wheel speed sensor, which doesn't affect anything.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/1185/brake1125in.jpg

Now, I started to install the knuckle. I re-used the trailing arm bolt, and the two strut bolts. I bought two extra suspension arm bolts ( the long one), in case I had to beat the old ones out. Hyundai part #62617-1700 -bolt, and # 33131-42000 nut. Bolts are sold in pairs, and nuts in a four piece package. Every bolt that I use the install the knuckle , got a good coating of never-seize.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/2470/brake123sp.jpg

I mounted the knuckle, and torqued the bolts to spec; rear suspension arm mounting bolt ( long bolt) 118-133 ft. lbs, rear strut lower mounting bolts 81-96 ft. lbs., and rear trailing arm to rear carrier 74-89 ft.lbs. (As per Hyundai service manual). The I bolt on the dust shield ( Hyundai part #58243-29300 LH, #58244-29300 RH). The only issue I had with the cover is one mounting hole had to be enlarged a little bit. Next, I re-used the wheel hub assembly and mounted it to the knuckle. Yes, thats right, the hub is re-useable and will fit. Torque the castle nut to spec. (159-192 ft. lbs.) and staked it into the groove on the spindle. No cotter pins are required.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1431/hub18lb.jpg

At this point I had to change the parking brake cables. Hyundai part #59760-2D330 LH ($50.29), and #59770-2D330 RH (83.82). Why one costs more?? Don't have a clue. Same length, nothing really different. Even the parts guy was puzzled. But no cable. no parking brake. The cables have 3 mounting tabs. The cables snake underneath, and into the center tunnel. The last mount tab holds it in from underneath.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6785/pb20za.jpg

You have to remove the center console to get to it. Pop off the shifter cover.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4167/con14pd.jpg

Remove three screws on each side, then remove the console.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7344/con21ox.jpg

Now you have full access to the cables from the inside.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2431/pb12ek.jpg

After changing the cables, I replaced the brake hoses. The difference is the (banjo) fitting that attached to the caliper.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/3117/bh20bp.jpg

Note: I had a major issue with the hoses. THe parts guy gave me the wrong ones. The end that connects to the hard line (metal) had a different fitting on the end. The metal line on the car has a bubble (ISO / metric) type of flare on it. The hose require the opposite. (Thank God) I saved the old ones from the wreck. They fit perfectly. I think the Parts guy (dope...oops) got it wrong. I told him it was for ABS, and I think he ordered for TCS as well. I have to do more research on part #'s, sorry...I installed the hoses from the wreck.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/5696/bh12li.jpg

Now I can start with the caliper. Mount the parking brake cable guide onto the caliper. Note: another very important part. No bracket, no parking brake. I re-used this part from the wreck. Hyundai does not sell this piece seperately . It only comes in a caliper kit ( Hyundai part #58310-29A20 - LH, and #58320-29A20 - RH). Price was about $228.00 per side. I love junk yards. Here is the guide and cable installed..
http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/3867/pb58bs.jpg

Oh, if you are going to detail (paint) your calipers, now is the time to do it. I installed the rotor, caliper bracket, pads ( EBC greenstuff), and caliper. In that order..Note: The rotors are slotted / cross-drilled. I got them from Ebay. The name of the seller was R1 concepts. They come with silver zinc plating and costed $118 for the full set ( front and back)....
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8809/hub28mm.jpg

Now the caliper bracket and pads;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7991/hub31hc.jpg

Now the caliper;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7703/hub44rw.jpg

At this point, you need to bleed the brakes. Then adjust your parking brakes from the inside at the parking brake equilizer bracket. Specs call for 9 clicks maximum. ( adjusting nut is 12 mm)
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2431/pb12ek.jpg

Finished product;
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/241/finish1pz.jpg

There you have it...If anyone needs pics, part #'s, etc, PM me. I'll be more than happy to provide them...I need to call it a day

Damn. I double posted................

Pete03GLS
03-27-2012, 10:04 PM
that still doesnt answer my question on weather drum and caliper ebrake cables r the same.

NovaResource
03-28-2012, 09:24 AM
that still doesnt answer my question on weather drum and caliper ebrake cables r the same.
Why would he have to change the cables if they were the same?

BTW:
- weather = the state of the atmosphere with respect to wind, temperature, cloudiness, moisture, pressure, etc.
- whether = (conjunction) used to introduce a single alternative, the other being implied or understood, or some clause or element not involving alternatives: That still doesn't answer my question on whether drum and caliper ebrake cables are the same.

Pete03GLS
03-28-2012, 12:05 PM
maybe he was changing them because his old ones were shot?

mtlelantra
03-28-2012, 12:35 PM
They're different. if you look at the picture of the cable in step 5 of the 1st post, and the cable end in post 10, you can tell the difference. Drum and disc e-brake actuates in different manners so it goes to reason that they'd be different.

SuperGLS
03-29-2012, 08:10 AM
Guys, both of you stop being stupid or I'll get all e-thug on both of you.



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ki11er90
03-29-2012, 12:13 PM
Oh chitz, who deleted my post

I said I love you both!

songee623
03-29-2012, 11:42 PM
Super laid his pimp hand down!

ZeroContent
04-16-2012, 06:10 PM
I have a 2005 GLS that I'm hoping to do a conversion on. As far as I've gathered i can use the rear end of an Elantra 2003-2006. Are there any other years or vehicles that use the same knuckles? Luckily I have a ton of yards around here that seem to have what I need anyways, but obviously the larger selection I can go through the best condition parts I can find. Also are the rear calipers the same for that time period? When I search Car-part.com for calipers there aren't any 2005s in my area but there are a ton of 2003s. Just wondering in case the calipers on the rear end I get aren't useable, if i can salvage some calipers it'd be nice, if i have to get new, no big deal.

ryanjblajda
04-16-2012, 06:59 PM
Super laid his pimp hand down!

best thing ive seen on this forum so far.

Pete03GLS
04-16-2012, 09:52 PM
thats bcuz u havent been here very long xD

ryanjblajda
10-15-2012, 01:00 AM
^^^ haha that is true. but im doing this swap soon to fit my BBS RGs

rbd171
10-28-2012, 04:37 PM
I'm so glad my 04 gls auto came with all round disc

dammit, the 06 model has rear drum. heard some squeaking coming from the rear so i looked at them. got over over 70k and they aren't even 50% worn... replaced the fronts discs at 60k.

jdmeaux
05-03-2013, 10:50 PM
My wife has a 2005 that just had a brake job done at 66000 Miles. Front pads were about shot, but the rotors were not scored. Light cut ti clean them up. The rear drums were like new. Mechanic rebuild the front, and just cleaned the rear up. He told me that a lot of that had to do with the setting on the proportioning valve. I asked him about the possibility of changing over the rear to discs, and he said for what it was worth, he wouldn't bother with my car, since the front did over 90% of the braking. Then he said if I ever change the master cylinder and proportioning valve, it could be a totally different thing.

This was a decent write-up though. A lot better than some I've read.

Elantra Drifter
05-17-2013, 03:28 PM
I plan on doing this conversion soon, even though my nerves will never forgive me...lol

Curtis
08-10-2015, 11:49 PM
Does anyone have the pictures from the whole DIY they didn't load for me :( There is an Elantra with rear disks at my local wrecker