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Did clutch spring mod

7K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  only1db 
#1 ·
Had my buddy help me do it just a little bit ago and just got back from the test drive. It is not as good as adding a stage 1 clutch but it does grab noticeably faster and the pedal increase is actually appreciated as it is not that much. Great job whoever figured this out.
 
#9 ·
so I take it that this is a reversable mod right? When you unscrew the thing and let all the flued drain out, do u need to collect it or just throw it away? So then u just screw it back together without the spring and refill the resivor and bleed the lines? Thanks sorry kind of a newb question here
 
#10 ·
when the fluid drains out just refill it with new stuff. its pretty cheap. you don't need more than 1 cup of it. my suggestion. while the line is open. have some one else jump in the push the clutch a few times to drain the system completly. just change out all the fluid.

it is a revesible mod if you keep the spring. but after you do it you will probably just throw the sping away. you won't want to go back to it. if your nice on your clutch you won't even know that its been done
 
#13 ·
Ok, so let me get this streight...that screw that the arrow is pointing at, i take a rag and stuff it underneith it then unscrew it all the way out while the fluid is draining out...I then get a magnetic screw driver and stick it down the hole that the screw just came out of and I pull the spring out with the little plate attached to it. I now screw the thing back in titely without the spring and without the little plate thats attached to the spring...I then go to the clutch fluid resivore, open it up, pour in the clutch fluid untill its full then I open the bleeder vavle, push in the clutch, close the valve, let go of the clutch, open valve, push in clutch, etc. untill fluid starts to come out of the bleeder valve then I close the valve, and top off the clutch fluid resivor, titen the cap on that, and I am all done? Sorry just making sure what I am doing lol. Also, where is the clutch fluid resivore located at so I can top that off?
 
#14 ·
close. you loosen the 1 screw a little. then undo the 2 bolts holding it in place. then open the 1st one all the way OVER A BOWL and let all the fluid drain. once its drained turn the slave cylender upside down and the spring/plate sshould fall out. then installation is the reverse. and follow the rest of your directions. the clutch resevor is the little urine sample bottle looking thingy nearly right above your master brake cylender
 
#16 · (Edited)
My brother and I did this mod and we found that the easiest / least messy way to do it is just to hook up a hose to the bleeder valve and bleed out all of the 'clutch fluid' aka brake fluid into a bottle. You can pump the clutch pedal until it's dry. Then when you unscrew that bolt, it won't be messy at all. That's the only alteration I'd suggest in Ford's DIY.

Brake fluid can be some pretty potent stuff -- powerful enough to eat through thin plastic cups and the clearcoat on your car. So if you can avoid spillage then that's one less thing to worry about.
 
#20 ·
You don't have to drain the fluid...

...unless you're planning to change it. All you have to do is disconnect the hose, then raise the end until it's above the level of the reservoir. That way, the only fluid you lose is what runs out of the slave cylinder. BTW, I found that the fluid coming out of the slave cylinder pushed the spring and plate out without needing to go fishing for it. YMMV.
 
#21 ·
There was a brass fitting that fell out and I have no idea where it goes lol, does it go inbetween the slave cylinder and the green thing? Or does it go in-between the green thing and the bolt? Also there was a plate attached to the spring, do I need to pull the spring off it and put the plate back in? Or leave it out? Also back to the brass fitting, both sides look identicle and I have no idea which way it was originally oriented... Any help is greatly appreatiated! :D
 
#22 ·
I'm not sure what "brass thing" you're referring to. There are copper sealing washers on the banjo fitting (IIRC, there's one on each side).

The plate attached to the spring is the part that needs to be removed. Although you could reinstall the spring alone, there's no point in it, since its only purpose is to hold the plate in place.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Yeah I finally got everything back together right, I weant ahead and took out the air resonator, and the tube inside the air box since I already had that stuff taken apart. But the problem is that I couldn't really figure out how to re-fill the clutch fluid properly and bleed the lines. Before I even took the slave cylinder apart I was trying to bleed the clutch fluid out of the bleed valve (this is the little nipple looking thing with a rubber cap on it right?) but no matter what I did I could not get the fluid to come out (I would have the clutch pushed in, cover the nipple, let the clutch go, then uncover the nipple, and repeat. I also tried in vise versa in case I was doing it wrong) so I ended up just letting the fluid out from unscrewing it. What I did to fill the clutch up was I had the nipple shut, and I opened up the container and filled it up with dot 3 brake fluid. I let it sit there for a while then we did the method I described up there... pushing in the clutch, covering the nipple, letting out the clutch, uncovering the nipple, etc. and eventually the level would start to go down so I would need to refill it. After doing this like a million times, the clutch still felt funny, so he just pushed on the clutch a lot and I could see bubbles comming out of the lines into the container where u fill it, after doing that for a while the bubbles began to stop comming up and the clutch got stiffer. But!!, I am almost possitive its not how its supposed to be, the clutch feels really squishy, like I have to push it down all the way then it disangages right at the floor. So my question is how am I doing the clutch re-fill wrong, and how I can go about getting it right? lol thanks a lot! :D Any help is greatly appreatiated!
 
#24 ·
Pump the clutch and then hold the clutch down. Then you loosen the bleeder screw to let any air out. Tighten the bleeder screw before you let the clutch back up. Check the reservoir, top up as needed, and repeat until the bleeder screw squirts out just fluid, no bubbles from air. It works best with two people for obvious reasons.
 
#25 ·
You are talking about a "bleeder screw" though right? Is this the same thing I was talking about? Because I am under the impression that its not a screw, that its a nipple with a rubber cap on the end of it that you can pop on and off... is this the same thing? Thanks btw
 
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