Timing belt help [Archive] - Hyundai Elantra Forum

: Timing belt help



Josh K
05-12-2004, 04:26 AM
I know it's not really necessary maintenance until 60k but I always do my 60k services at 50k, so it's time to change my timing belt. Since I'm gonna have this apart, are there any mods that I can do?

thanks

sed
05-12-2004, 07:15 AM
not really, unless you want to change the cams, or the cam gears

shawn :)

Gregster
05-12-2004, 08:04 AM
How about water pump, idler pulley and tensioner?

Gregster

sed
05-12-2004, 09:07 AM
well of course you change all parts associated with the timing when doing a job of that caliber...

water pump is an iffy, but when you have the cover off and are doing a timing belt job, a water pump is a 60,000 mile part anyway. so you might as well do it. I believe he was asking about HP or Torque adding modifications..

correct me if i'm wrong josh

shawn :)

FordFasteRR
05-12-2004, 09:17 AM
MY NEWEST MOD !


OIL CHANGE !!

YEAH BABY !!!


say it... OIL CHANGE ! :bowdown:

watson80
05-12-2004, 10:47 AM
I did a lightweight crank pulley when I did my timing belt at 50k. Do that!!!

Josh K
05-12-2004, 12:53 PM
Yeah I'm gonna do the pump, tensioner, and seals as well.

Shawn, you're right, I was trying to see if there were any torque/hp adding mods that would be easier with this install. ;0)

Ah well I'll probably just take FordFasteRR's advice and change my oil ;0)

sed
05-12-2004, 01:09 PM
like i said earlier,

Unless you want to do cams... or cam sprokets, but you could do an ud pulley, if you want to, but then again you have to order that and wait for that part to do the job. There really isn't much you can do with the upper head without changing a lot of aspects of the engine. My advice is to give her a good tune up, use castrol 5w30, a good oil filter, the honda plug wires, iridium plugs.

shawn :)

SilverWolf
05-12-2004, 01:11 PM
I could be wrong but in my opinion, I think Hyundai's recommendation to change the timing belt at 60k is a little premature. Every car I've ever owned has always been, inspect the timing belt at 60k, and replace if needed. Then at 90-100k is a definate replacement. Last car I had was and Acura and I ran the **** out of that motor and got 130k miles before I had the timing belt replaced. Then when I replaced it, the mechanic told me that the old belt was still in great condition and probably still had some miles left on it. As of now I have 82k on my Elantra already and don't plan on changing the timing belt till I hit 90k. Since the dealer wants $500 to change it, and all the other belts, I'm going to use my Hyundai settlement money to get $100 off.

Kspec01
05-12-2004, 03:00 PM
whoa, the water pump is a part that has to be changed at 60K ?

Elantra2.001
05-12-2004, 03:21 PM
The timing belt is so cheap that its rediculous not to change it at the recomended interval. Modern synthetic oil lasts 12000 miles easy, but you change it even if there are "some miles" left in it.

Gregster
05-12-2004, 03:33 PM
whoa, the water pump is a part that has to be changed at 60K ?

Might as well, you have everything off and its a pain in the *** to do all that removing twice. Unless, you're a masochist.

Gregster

FordFasteRR
05-12-2004, 03:44 PM
....Modern synthetic oil lasts 12000 miles easy, but you change it even if there are "some miles" left in it.


Yeah right !...

well, theoretically, you dont ever HAVE to change the oil unless its below the recommended level... sheesh...

you could just keep adding more as it wears out...

of course, the bearings and other parts will die much sooner than the manufacturers MTBF specification !!

sheesh... you should be carefull what you tell newbs around here sonny !! :)

sed
05-12-2004, 03:56 PM
you guys have never seen a menu of recommended service? maybe its just us guys who have worked in a dealership. Ok here you go:

3000 miles :
first oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids.

6000 miles:
oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, rotate tires, balance if needed

9000 miles:
oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids

12000 miles:
oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, rotate tires

15000 miles:
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, check spark plugs, check spark plug wires, transmission service, coolant check, replace air filter and wiper blades

18000 miles
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, rotate tires

21000 miles:
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids

24000 miles:
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, rotate tires

27000 miles:
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids

30000 miles:
Oil change, check and adjust all belts, top off all fluids, auto tranny service (every 15), pcv replacement, spark plug replacement, check wires, replace wiper blades, coolant service, replace air filter, balance tires, manual tranny service (recommended every 30), rear diff service.

Lather rinse repeat every 3000, a 45000 is a 15000, a 60000 is a 30000 etc etc

shawn :) :znaika:

SilverWolf
05-12-2004, 05:29 PM
The timing belt is so cheap that its rediculous not to change it at the recomended interval. Modern synthetic oil lasts 12000 miles easy, but you change it even if there are "some miles" left in it.

The belt is cheap...paying the dealer or any other mechanic to put it in isn't. I would do it myself, but that's one CF of a mess I don't even want to deal with. And now that I am looking directly at my manual and the vehicle maintenance requirements chart, it says replace the timing belt at 60k but then is marked with an asterisk with a footnote saying, "For California, this maintenance is recommended, but not required". That tells me that as long as I've inspected it, it's all good till I hit 90k.

hyunelan2
05-12-2004, 05:40 PM
Damnit! I've got 4500 left till the 'big boy' 30,000 mile service - that's not gonna be cheap. What's the auto tranny service entail?

sed
05-12-2004, 06:37 PM
auto tranny service is simple,

drop the tranny pan, drain the fluid, change the filter, clean the pan of all gasket material, reinstall the pan and add tranny fluid. Check while car is idling in park..

And timing belt isn't as hard as a lot of people think it is....

it is really actually as simple as a valve cover gasket, you just have to make sure you note where TDC (Top dead center) is....

any other questions on a timing belt job, pm me and I'll help as much as possible

shawn :)

WytchDctr
05-12-2004, 07:55 PM
the 500 it takes to change it will be cheaper than if it breaks. My belt and water pump are getting changed at 60k. but then again.. that IMO.

Elantra2.001
05-12-2004, 09:46 PM
Modern synthetic will have detergents and anti foaming capability out to 12000 miles, but the filter would be shot, so if you change the filter, you might as well change the oil. The longest you should run one filter is 6000 miles. This is all moot though. Ill be changing mine at 60k so meh...

sed
05-13-2004, 08:26 AM
I'm at 70k right now,

I changed my water pump, idler, timing belt and tensioner, plugs, wires, pcv, brake pads, calipers, rotors, and tires.. when I hit 60... I mean I had just gotten the car 15000 miles before that so mine is a little extreme, but an ounce of prevention.....

shawn :)

Elantra2.001
05-13-2004, 12:36 PM
I know a guy who went 220k on his '02 elantra and i doubt half that service was done at all, so it can be done... but do you want to risk it?

Bnystrom
05-13-2004, 05:52 PM
Why would you replace the rotors and calipers at 60K? I've never had to replace either on any car I've owned, including the ones that went 168K and 175K miles.

SilverWolf
05-13-2004, 05:54 PM
auto tranny service is simple,

drop the tranny pan, drain the fluid, change the filter, clean the pan of all gasket material, reinstall the pan and add tranny fluid. Check while car is idling in park..

And timing belt isn't as hard as a lot of people think it is....

it is really actually as simple as a valve cover gasket, you just have to make sure you note where TDC (Top dead center) is....

any other questions on a timing belt job, pm me and I'll help as much as possible

shawn :)

With that said maybe I will try and save myself a few pennies and do the timing belt and water pump myself. I do have a connection to get a 20% discount on Hyundai parts so really I could purchase all the belts and pump, and just do it myself if it is not as complicated as you say. TDC is easy to read, just tearing all the crap off to get to everything is the part that scares me. Maybe I will be asking questions when I get to that point.

sed
05-17-2004, 01:20 PM
I changed everything at 60k because I got the car used, and it was beat on and had the ORIGINAL pads on it, well what was left of them. The rotors were warped as hell, the calipers siezed and I just felt it would be a better idea to start fresh than try to fix

shawn :)

need help with that timing job, pm me i'll walk you through it

Bnystrom
05-17-2004, 02:17 PM
I changed everything at 60k because I got the car used, and it was beat on and had the ORIGINAL pads on it, well what was left of them. The rotors were warped as hell, the calipers siezed and I just felt it would be a better idea to start fresh than try to fix

Ah, that makes sense!

felixr
05-17-2004, 06:09 PM
thats what i want to do with mine sed . . . any tips for someone who hasnt done it before? where could i start? what should i know? what should i look out for? ballpark dollar figure? thanks ahead of time (im like 700 miles away from 60K . . wanna take it in to the dealer for a last ditch effort before the 60K warranty expires but i know they'll just say ahh its fine and then whatever it is they said was fine will break at 60,000.1 :(

:EDIT: sorry, i just noticed this came in after like 3 or 4 posts. . . when i posted this there was still only one page (in my browser that is-i didnt refresh) so my post was in response to sed's last post on page 1 thanks

Bnystrom
05-17-2004, 07:12 PM
[QUOTE=felixr]thats what i want to do with mine sed . . . any tips for someone who hasnt done it before? where could i start? what should i know? what should i look out for? ballpark dollar figure? thanks ahead of time (im like 700 miles away from 60K . . wanna take it in to the dealer for a last ditch effort before the 60K warranty expires but i know they'll just say ahh its fine and then whatever it is they said was fine will break at 60,000.1 :(

FWIW, I had a transmission problem in my Excel at 64K miles (shot bearings). Hyundai covered 75% of the repair bill, which included replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing while they had the tranny out. Essentially, I got the tranny fixed free and paid for the clutch parts.

The moral of the story is:

"Don't assume that your warranty has expired just because you reach the mileage limit."

sed
05-17-2004, 10:26 PM
i think it cost me around 500 bucks, but thats just for parts... I don't really remember as that was a state and ten thousand miles ago, but as anything in the automotive industry all it takes is time and paitence.

shawn :)

felixr
05-17-2004, 11:36 PM
Think i can tackle it on my own? what is a good guide as far as something i can print out besides well this thread and maybe hma webtech or whatever its called

sed
05-18-2004, 08:56 AM
felixr,

to change everything out, you are looking at a full days work. I think that you can tackle it of course, as its just an issue of time and paitence..

You need quite a few different tools, however, so make sure that you have at least a full metric 6 point socket set, all types of screwdrivers, oil catch pan, coolant catch pan, tranny fluid catch pan, a 5/8 piece of tubing to spin in your spark plugs, a spark plug socket (5/8), extensions, a big *** screwdriver for the petcog on the radiator. uhm what else, anti sieze, brake squeal reducer, might need a breaker bar for those stubborn caliper bolts, uhm, a L shaped screwdriver or piece of meral to adjust the rear drums.

My best advice is to start with a tune up... see how that goes and guage your ability from there.

Take off the engine cover and spark plug cover. Use a 5/8 spark plug socket and a 3/8 ratchet with a 6" extension and spin the plugs out. Remember Lefty loosey, righty tighty. ok now go to pepboys and buy the APC wires for a 92-00 civic ex. Put them aside. get iridium plugs while you are there too...

ok, now I also did a valve cover gasket as well.... not hard...

there are 4 bols up front then two on the timing cover, and 5 in the back with one on top on the left hand side of the valve cover. Take them all out, and use a small screwdriver to pop it up... Replace the gasket, and check out your cams and louvers. Make sure there is no gunk and carbon deposits in there.. If there IS then we are going to do something else which is sorta a PITA. go to pepboys and buy a can of GUNK engine cleaner. put the valve cover back on, install the new plugs by slipping a piece of 5/8 tubing over the electrode and starting them into the head. when they are all spun in and you can't spin them anymore with the tube, use the extension and socket again. Once they are all tight (OK USE ANTISIEZE ON THE THREADS AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT TOO TIGHT, JUST ENOUGH THAT THEY WILL LOCK YOU WILL FEEL IT TRUST ME) throw the wires look at my thread to see what you have to do to make them fit. (its not hard at all 2 seconds)

Now, open up your engine oil filler cap and dump the GUNK cleaner into it. replace the cap and let it idle for 5 minutes.. you might hear some pings and bumps, and it will smell like ***, but thats ok.. After its idled turn the car off and drain the oil. its a 17 mil. bolt on the pan, and the oil filter is directly in front of the pan. FRAM part numbe 3067 i believe... Now what you have to do, is go to pepboys and buy an oil pan gasket. Using a 1/4 ratchet and a small 4" extension, break all the 10 mm bolts surrounding the oil pan. DO NOT TAKE ANY BOLTS OUT UNTIL ALL ARE BROKEN FREE. One by one, take the bolts out.. When they are all out, pull the pan off the block. You might have to pry with the same small screwdriver that you used on the valve cover.

Once the pan is off, clean that *****. Use Carb Cleaner (3.99 a can at pepboys) and a gasket scraper. Make sure all deposits are out of the pan, as the GUNK cleaner is going to bring everything down to the pan. look at all the crap that was in your engine!!! Now its in your pan, but you are taking it out. Once its all clean of the gross nastiness, use the gasket scraper and get ALL, every last little bit of the gasket off the pan, if any was left on the block then get some spray on gasket remover, and spray it on, let it sit for about 5 minutes then CAREFULLY scrape the gasket off the block. Put the gasket on the pan and dry fit it to the block. Start all the bolts by hand. when they are all started go in a crisscross pattern and tighten them down by hand. When they are all hand tight, use the 1/4" ratchet with 10mm socket and crisscross tighten them, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Ok now your engine is so fresh and so clean clean...

Fill her up with your oil of choice.. I use Castrol GTX 5w30, but whatever you like use it. Make sure to put the oil filter on first! Oh a side note, when you install the filter, make sure you rub some oil on the seal of the filter,this will help lubricate and seal the filter to the block.

Oh and make sure you tighten the drain plug on the oil pan 17mm 3/8 ratchet.

ok now you have plugs, wires, engine clean, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil change. Want me to continue?

shawn :)

felixr
05-18-2004, 09:46 AM
:bowdown: :eek: Yes PLEASE! You are THE MAN!:help: :imnotwort :eek2:

wow what an incredibly valuable sea of information . . sed .. thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you :bowdown:

sed
05-18-2004, 10:04 AM
:) hey I am here to help my fellow exders buddy, I'm at work so i will write up the rest as i can.. give me an hour or so

shawn :)

EDIT:

oh yeah felixr do you have stick or auto? makes a difference in the info

oh wow and i just realized you are in miami, i'm in ft lauderdale if you need any help with your car :)

felixr
05-18-2004, 10:24 AM
i have auto . . . wow ft.lauderdale . ..this is too sweet .. .maybe when i get to it(money wise and time wise) i can give you a ring or something . . . thanks a million by the way and take your time no rush (im broke right now) lol

sed
05-18-2004, 10:51 AM
no problem

ok:

coolant flush:

Jack the car up and put it on jackstands.. (You should already have it up from the oilchange) Looking at the car from the front, on the right hand side bottom of the radiator, there is a white petcog that is screwed in. You will need a #3 philips head screwdriver... Take out the petcog and let the coolant drain into a bucket or something. Now, what you want to do is, MAKE SURE THE CAR IS COLD COLD COLD. Open the top of the radiator cap... Take a hose and turn it on full blast, move the bucket out of the way and keep the petcog in... Keep the water going through the coolent system for 15 - 20 minutes and really flush it out.. Now what you want to do, is put the petcog back in, and get some radiator flush (white bottle, blue letters, like 6 bucks at pepboys) and add it in with a 75%,25% water and coolant mixture into the top of the radiator cap. Now, this can be difficult because you want NO air inside of the radiator or the cooling system, so what you need to do is get a coolant funnel, its just a regular funnel, but it has the locking cap on the bottom that will keep the funnel in place and the vacuum good. Now add the coolant and flush, into the funnel and let it drain into the radiator, after its about half way down, start the car... be careful as the fluid could jump up at you.. You will see all kinds of bubbles start to come up into the fluid, its ok.. Keep adding coolant/water mix until it stops flowing into the radiator. Let the car idle for 20 minutes or so, when the coolant/water is full in the radiator, pull the funnel carefully and turn the car off.. replace the raidator cap and fill the overflow bottle to the maximum warm line.


Tranny Service:

Once again, jackstands..
there are i think 15 10mm bolts on the tranny pan.You need to go to pepboys and pick up a pan gasket and tranny filter for the valve body. What you do, is crack all the bolts on the tranny pan, don't loosen them all just crack them. Then, you pull the front 6 or so on the foward edge of the tranny pan... Loosen the other bolts 1/4 of the threads. Now, let the front of the pan drop and watch out, old tranny fluid smells really really bad, don't get it on you.. You will have about 4 - 5 quarts comin in at you, make sure you have some drop clothes and a big tranny drain pan.. ok, after 90% of the fluid is out, drop the rest of the bolts and drop the pan out. Just like the oil pan what you want to do is clean up the pan, and all of the gasket. If there are any gasket parts left on the valve body use gasket remover and scrape it off gently.. Replace the filter by poping it off and pushing the new one in. Clean up the pan very nice and fit the gasket on to it... Dry fit the pan and gasket, and start 3 or 4 bolts just hand turned three or four threads... Hand turn the rest of the bolts making sure you don't tighten any more than the others.. Now, hand tighen all of the bolts in a criss cross pattern... After all are hand tight go back in the same pattern with a 1/4 ratchet and 10mm socket and tighten to like 11 ft lbs, nothing at all, just nice and snug.. its easy to bend the tranny pan guys be careful. Now, once the pan is in, you have to add the fluid through the dipstick. I don't remember where it is, but i am pretty sure its on the right hand side aft, towards the firewall, the handle is painted red.

PCV service: the pcv is on the back side of the head, directly across from the front side of the Intake manifolds Idle air controller... All you have to do is pop off the 3/8" tube going from your PCV to the Intake, and spin out the Valve. Cleant he threads on the head and install the new pcv.

more?

shawn :)

Edit#2

You are going to need 5 quarts of tranny fluid... add 4 then check while its in park idling.

felixr
05-18-2004, 12:26 PM
you should write a book. . . . im gonna save all this and follow it to a tee . . .whatever you want to write i will read and follow . . . my email is [email protected] just in case thanks a million again man!

sed
05-18-2004, 12:31 PM
lol I think I have already started that book ^^^

Its just stuff that I have done all my life so I know it like the back of my hand.

shawn :)

I'll write up the rest, brake job later on today... oh yeah anyone want a right up of how to change a head gasket? or a clutch? or uh anything else really? hehe