Hyundai Elantra Forum banner

Question for the auto XD 1/4 runners

6K views 42 replies 12 participants last post by  ArunSenior04 
#1 ·
OK. ive been searching the NT forums, but its really useful info, as their trans are abit different than the XD1 trans.

1. Best way to launch? (Power braking, hovering gas)
2. Best way to run? (leave it in D, L23D)

Im asking the XD1 people, as the XD2 is different than mine (when in L, itll shift at redline.)

Perhaps Oddessit could chime in.
 
#2 ·
if you powershift (L23D) then you will overheat the tranny very quickly, and cause it to become too hot after doing that more than 2x. if you want to do that, get a tranny cooler asap. but that would be a good idea, since it gives you a bit more control over the shift points of the car to a certain extent. and if you do powershift, dont take your foot off the gas, just keep shifting so the car doesnt hiccup as much when launching.
 
#4 ·
You can load the brake for better grip so you can launch at a few higher rpms without slipping... Brake in N, and then rev the engine and your brake pedal should sink a little lower. Then you can shift into gear and rev it. But yeah, don't sit there at the tree and have it revving while you wait, or you'll mess up the torque converter quicker.
 
#7 ·
Not all cars are faster messing with the shifter. Ive known atleast 3 diffrent cars that did better left in drive. I know just as many that are faster "manually" shifting.
 
#8 ·
WytchDctr said:
Not all cars are faster messing with the shifter. Ive known atleast 3 diffrent cars that did better left in drive. I know just as many that are faster "manually" shifting.
Interesting...I didn't know that. Now by all cars, you mean it differs from each individual car even if the same make or between different manufacturers?
 
#9 ·
My best friends Grand Am (gone now) = Lost .2-.3 secs in the 1/4 screwing with the shifter

Another friends Eclipse v6 did .1-.2 better in D

Then I knew a saturn that ran a tenth or so faster in D

On the other side I know someone with a carolla thats slow as dirt in D. "shift it" and it gets alot faster.

My wifes Mazda5 is faster in "manual" mode, but thats also because itll turn another 500rpms in +- then it will in D

I think it depends on how well the tcm is programed and how the trans is built. Id go buy what other owners of the same make/model have done, but still do a lil testing on your own car to see what it likes.
 
#11 ·
Like I have searched on NT, and they some of those guys have said that they ran slower times shifting, than just leaving it in D. But it just seems a little faster when shifting, but most of the power is at the lower RPMS (i think), so I dunno.
 
#12 ·
If your car redlines when you leave it in D, then leave the shifter alone and let the tranny do the job.

Launch like some people have said: one foot on the brake, another one on gas, rev it up till you can, then floor it and release brake.
 
#13 · (Edited)
How do you do it Odessit?!?

I have hotshot headers, 2.25" cat back with stock cat and res to a straight thru borla xs, udp, cam gear (advanced 4 clicks/8 degrees,) and a 3" cai.

With just a Cai, I ran a 17.2, at Capital.

R/t: 1.26
60': 2.458
330': 7.158
1/8: 11.078
MPH: 63.07
1000: 14.427
1/4: 17.286
MPH: 78.7

Today with all those mods, I ran a 16.9 at Cecil.

R/t: .383
60': 2.610
330': 7.248
1/8: 11.037
MPH: 65.51
1000: 14.246
1/4: 16.977
MPH: 82.57


Im starting to think it may be something to do with my traction. Im at 63K miles, and Im still on my stock tires. I have maybe a 1/4" of tread on my fronts (one Kumho, and one Phaser,) and even less on the back. If you compare the two, my first one is actually beating me by ~.2 in the 60', then ~.1 in the 330'. By the 1/8, Ive pretty much caught up.

Im thinking about maybe setting the putting back to stock. And going down to Capital. This isnt making any sense.
 
#15 ·
fixed. :)

The thing is, I know the power is there. (Comparing the two slips) By the 1/8, I was able to make up the .2 I lost in the 60'. At 1/8, we are pretty much even. By the end of the 1/4, Im up by .3 seconds. So in total, I went from being .2 under, to .3 ahead.

Now to figure out why Im doing worst in the 60.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I think your problem is the fact you have an autotragic like me... with all those mods you should be beating 16 secs with a manual...

Natural Aspired on an XD ESPECIALLY an autotragic is not cost effective... (thanks for being another example of why) F/I is the only way to go :) Perhaps the only way youll get lower numbers is with nitrous, thus all your mods would be helpful then.

Doing worse in the "low end" means you must of lost some low end torque in exchange for high end Hp, the only way youd know is if you did a before and after dyno.

You gotta remember, small engines with N/A = not much gains unless you have some crazy tuning or timing system (Vtec)... this is why the EVO and the STi and the GolfR32 all come turbo with their comparable sized engines.
 
#18 · (Edited)
OdessitPashka said:
If your car redlines when you leave it in D, then leave the shifter alone and let the tranny do the job.
I'm not aware any car left in D capable of redlining. The whole purpose of the tranny in D throughout the gears is that it shifts at a safe and fairly economical point. If the car shifted at redline at every gear when left in D, there wouldn't be a need for much else... :confused:
 
#19 ·
any auto ive been in will go damn near redline if you run it at WOT. if you are easier on the gas it will shift earlier.
 
#22 ·
I heard jim almost got me last night...:)
 
#24 ·
yeah thats what he said when i talked to him after he ran both times...i was like, ...jim...we have a guy running 10.90s in a formula firebird here in town that only pulls 1.7-1.8 60's

still good runs though.
 
#25 ·
CTele02 said:
Doing worse in the "low end" means you must of lost some low end torque in exchange for high end Hp, the only way youd know is if you did a before and after dyno..
Honestly, I think its because of this cam gear, that I lost low end. Ill try to get it put back to stock, which will put me pretty much even (in mods, other than my udp) with Odessit auto's 16.5 hopefully.
 
#26 · (Edited)
evan938 said:
I heard jim almost got me last night...:)
yeah .003 off from ya. oh well. i know i could've had ya cause i bogged it off the line on the good run. i know i could've dropped another tenth off had i stayed but oh well. i really don't care.

I had a feeling the car had more power stored away somewhere.. so I decided to tune the cam sprocket.
I bought this sprocket on ebay for $70 new and i had fooled around with it and never really had good results... So it was time to do something about it...

I strapped the car down and gave it a baseline run... the diff from this dyno & the previous one was only 1 whp which is a perfectly acceptable variation.. green line : 131.9 whp & 126.2 ft.lb..

After the baseline, i advaned the cam sprocket by 2 notches on the gear which = 4 degrees of crank advance...

This yielded 2 whp gain & 2 ft.lb wtq gain ...

So i went back and advaned it 2 more notches, for a total of 8 degrees of crank advance...

The results were good, lost .2 hp but gained 2 more ft.lb of wheel torque so i stopped messing with it and locked it down..

the results ? A total of 2 hp gain and 4 ft.lb wtq !!! (133.2 hp & 130.6 ft.lb wtq BLUE LINE )
^ that quote is from fords dyno thread. 4 lbs tq increase with sprocket advanced.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top