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My Dealer's Suggested Service Breakdown

48K views 30 replies 22 participants last post by  gt5 
#1 ·
I thought this could be helpful and hopefully some others could post up a complete listing like this for their dealership to see how they compare.

7,500 Miles (22,500, 37,500, 52,500, 67,500, 82,500)
  • Replace oil and filter
  • Check battery
  • Install MOA oil treatment
  • Rotate Tires
  • Check tire measurements
  • Set tire pressures
  • Reset and calibrate tire pressure monitor (if applicable)
  • Visually inspect brake linings, disc/drums
  • Check and top off all fluids
  • Inspect ball joints and dust covers
  • Inspect driveshaft boots
  • Lubricate chassis (as applicable)
  • Reset maintenance indicator
  • Inspect steering linkage and boots
  • Inspect engine air filter
  • Inspect exterior lights
  • Lubricate door locks and hinges
  • Inspect wiper inserts
  • Road test vehicle

15,000 Miles (45,000, 75,000)

Same as 7,500 Mile Service minus
  • Lubricate chassis
And add
  • Inspect steering linkage and boots
  • Replace PCV
  • Inspect engine coolant
  • Inspect and adjust drive belts
  • Inspect suspension
  • Inspect brake lines and hoses
  • Clean and adjust rear brakes
  • Inspect exhaust system

30,000 Miles (90,000)

Same as 15,000 Mile Service and add
  • Lubricate chassis
  • Perform fuel induction service
  • Perform coolant flush
  • Replace spark plugs (Accent and Elantra only)

60,000 Miles (120,000)

Same as 30,000 Mile Service



 
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#31 ·
I don't know what you meant by "recommended", not such a thing..dealer will charge you by the book which as recomended services will be SEVERAL thousand dollars all the way to 100.000 miles, don't do it n they will play games with original owner if something go wrong and owner didn't follow 'recommended" schedule by THEM which mean the 10/100k is a propaganda gimmick, sorry whoever bought a hyundai thinking IF THEY GIVE 10 YEARS 100k miles MUST BE A GOOD CAR better off buying any brand n extended warrranty..don't take me wrong, this cars are good as the other BUT they play hard ball when THEY have no record* of such with THEM

follow their schedule n your hyundai became a very expensive car..better off with extended if you want piece of mind..I don't.

DYS"s keep your receipts...sarcasm here

* want more gimmick? if maintenance record is important, WTH they drop the 10/100k once orig owner sell/trade the car?..all fancy BS

don't take me lightly, I had bought quite a few showroom cars, only went back for recalls/under warranty issues, saved enough money to buy my next car by DYS maintenance.

"recomeded" is the hook to grab your keys n drive you nuts with, mostly, unnecesary "services"...use common sense n enjoy ANY car
 
#7 ·
How do you know your timing belt's going? My 2000 is at 107k, I bought it at 90k, and received no maintenence records from the previous owner, so I have no idea when it was last done. I assume it was done at some point though, considering the car's been in the shop several times since I bought it, and the mechanics have never mentioned anything about it needing to be replaced.

Is there anyway to estimate how old the belt is, or when it's about to need to be replaced?
 
#15 ·
7,500 Miles (22,500, 37,500, 52,500, 67,500, 82,500)
  • Replace oil and filter $28.95
  • Check battery Not necessary at this time and mileage, but if you still feel like doing it, autozone does it for free
  • Install MOA oil treatment not necessary, waste of money
  • Rotate Tires $16.95
  • Check tire measurements free with oil change
  • Set tire pressures free with oil change
  • Reset and calibrate tire pressure monitor (if applicable) not applicable
  • Visually inspect brake linings, disc/drums free with rotate
  • Check and top off all fluids free with oil change
  • Inspect ball joints and dust covers not necessary
  • Inspect driveshaft boots free with oil change
  • Lubricate chassis (as applicable) not applicable
  • Reset maintenance indicator none on our vehicles
  • Inspect steering linkage and boots free with oil change
  • Inspect engine air filter free to inspect
  • Inspect exterior lights free to inspect
  • Lubricate door locks and hinges you're joking right?
  • Inspect wiper inserts look at your own wipers
  • Road test vehicle unless you think there is something wrong, there is no need for the tech to test drive

15,000 Miles (45,000, 75,000)

Same as 7,500 Mile Service minus
  • Lubricate chassis
And add
  • Inspect steering linkage and boots free with oil change
  • Replace PCV $10 parts, $40 labor
  • Inspect engine coolant free to inspect, $132.50 to flush
  • Inspect and adjust drive belts free to inspect, maybe $40 to adjust
  • Inspect suspension free with oil change
  • Inspect brake lines and hoses free with oil change
  • Clean and adjust rear brakes $40, only for rear drums
  • Inspect exhaust system free with oil change

30,000 Miles (90,000)

Same as 15,000 Mile Service and add
  • Lubricate chassis not applicable
  • Perform fuel induction service $149.95
  • Perform coolant flush $132.50
  • Replace spark plugs (Accent and Elantra only) not sure on parts pricing, but around $40 for labor

60,000 Miles (120,000)

Same as 30,000 Mile Service
That's how that list would break down at my dealership.
 
#18 ·
I'm not going to knock it, as I make a lot of money off of those services. But, I won't tell you it's necessary, as it's really not. Look at your trottle body. Do you have a lot of black carbon on it? If not, you really don't need this service...
 
#19 ·
I got my 30,000 mile service done. I had already changed the engine air filter. After looking over the list, I had the following things done:

- Oil change
- Tire rotation
- AT fluid flush with SP-III
- Radiator coolant flush
- Standard inspections that come with oil change

Total was $180 including tax. The package of recommended (by them) service would have totaled $330 + tax. We went through it line-by-line and figured out that the only service items in there that are recommended by the owners manual were the things I had done... so that's all they did.
 
#21 ·
Got quoted $525 for the 60k and $305 for the timing belt by the two dealers in my area. They said the total would be roughly 900 - 1000 with taxes and disposal, 8 - 9 hr job. I'm hoping I can learn some things on here and do them myself. I'm familiar with my car, but the Elantra is my fiance's and I've never worked on it before...
 
#27 · (Edited)
I pay zero attention to what dealer's suggest. I do what the manufacturer recommends and I do it myself at home, using the factory service manual.

My brother had free oil changes on his Elantra, so I used to take it to the dealer for him. They once told me his in-cabin filter was, "very dirty and in immediate need of replacing" about 2 days after I had already replaced it. I asked the service writer if the mechanic had actually looked at it and he said, "it says here that it's very dirty, so he must have". I told him that I did it two days prior and that it's not dirty. He asked the tech and came back and said that the tech just assumed it must be very dirty because they had never done it.

This is why I will NEVER pay a dealer to do anything to a car. Warranty work, fine... but that's it.
 
#28 ·
What's even worse is when they charge you for filters, and then never change them. I had this happen with a cabin filter and a fuel filter. They both were supposedly changed (and I paid for them) at a 40k service. I changed the cabin filter about a year later, and it was unbelievably filthy - no way it gets that dirty in a year in my driving conditions. At 78k, I had a catastrophic fuel system failure, which ultimately cost over a grand. The dealer (different dealer, different state) replaced the fuel filter, and showed me the clogged old one he removed. It had a date of 030500, which coincided with the build date of the car. So obviously, it had been on the car forever, and there was no fuel filter replaced at 40k as per the invoice.

It's crap like this that gives the honest dealers (and there are some) a bad rep. BTW, this was NOT a Hyundai dealer.
 
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