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7 whp & 14 ft.lb wtq DIY !

41K views 27 replies 19 participants last post by  avantegt 
#1 · (Edited)
There is so much information about the last 4 dyno's that I've done & the related mods that I thought it would be fair to put them all in 1 thread and go step by step with the mods & power results...

I hope it is helpful to some people who read this forum often... because this is finally a no bull**** thread with dyno & 1/4 mile runs to back it up...

Here we go:

____________________________

Dyno #1. NOV 11 2004:

Baseline run... 128 hp & 121 ft.lb tq. ( GREEN LINE )

This was with a short ram & a custom-cat-back with a magnaflow straight through muffler. All of my other mods were in place...

ported manifold, heat spacer, 1.8L j2 elantra headers, no cats, stock cam sprocket setting, no fuel tuning.

In this dyno, i turned the fuel tuner down on the top end by -4% and i gained 2 whp and 0 torque. ( RED LINE ). So with just fuel tuning there is a 2 whp gain.. mostly insignificant. 130.2 hp & no gain in torque.

Dyno 1:





Nov 30 2004:

I went to the muffler shop and got rid of the straight through muffler, i bought a dynomax super turbo 3 chamber muffler 2 1/2 inch inlet & outlet.

I strapped the car on the dyno and it showed: 123 whp & 117 ft.lb torque.. ( green line ) I FREAKED OUT ! How could I lose power ! ? Is this muffler that restrictive ! ?? NOT THE CASE..

I had the magical idea of resetting the ecu ( unplug the neg terminal of the battery & press the brakes to drain the system) and then plug it back in..

ran the dyno a second time. power went up ! 128 whp and 121 ft.lb tq ! YES, power jumped up by 5 hp & 4 ft.lb tq. Looking at the fuel curve, it is easy to see what just happened... the ecu was running super lean (green fuel curve line) & it was nearly 15:1 air fuel ratio before 4200 rpms, and after it dropped by 2 points... Resetting the ecu flattened the fuel cruve and made it a little richer before 4200 rpms and that made more power...

then i got the idea of using the fuel tuner again... so i set it to -4% and gave it another go... HOLY CRAP !

I gained 4 whp & 5 ft.lb tq MORE ! ( 132.7 hp & 126.8 ft.lb Blue line ) SWEET !!

So basically, the overall gain from going to this new muffler & resetting the ecu was 4 whp & 5 ftlb of torque overall.

Dyno #2:




Dyno #3 Dec 10, 2004:

I had a feeling the car had more power stored away somewhere.. so I decided to tune the cam sprocket.
I bought this sprocket on ebay for $70 new and i had fooled around with it and never really had good results... So it was time to do something about it...

I strapped the car down and gave it a baseline run... the diff from this dyno & the previous one was only 1 whp which is a perfectly acceptable variation.. green line : 131.9 whp & 126.2 ft.lb..

After the baseline, i advaned the cam sprocket by 2 notches on the gear which = 4 degrees of crank advance...

This yielded 2 whp gain & 2 ft.lb wtq gain ...

So i went back and advaned it 2 more notches, for a total of 8 degrees of crank advance...

The results were good, lost .2 hp but gained 2 more ft.lb of wheel torque so i stopped messing with it and locked it down..

the results ? A total of 2 hp gain and 4 ft.lb wtq !!! (133.2 hp & 130.6 ft.lb wtq BLUE LINE )

dyno #3:



Dyno #4 Dec 21 2004:

So lastly, I decided to swap back to a CAI and re-test the car..

The reason for this dyno was two fold.. #1, I had to find out what the possible gains were for this change just for my own knowledge. and #2, I had to have something great to give back to the EXD members who always debate on what the differences are with SRI vs CAI ... I swear i've seen like 28923385 different threads with people arguing about what the differences are.. and i know the dyno does not perfectly simulate real driving conditions but at least we have SOMETHING to base our arguments on instead of just theory..

So I did 3 straight up runs... I did not have the sri installed at the time of this dyno, but you can see dyno # 3 as a comparison..

total gains, 0 hp & 135.6 ft.lb wheel torque ( RED LINE ) .

the other dynos were just less than 1 tenth of a hp variation.. so this is a good baseline for the CAI swap.

So finally, overall there is a 7 hp & 14 ft.lb gain from the original run...

dyno #4:




_________________________________



Lastly, I wanted to mention something about 1/4 mile specs..

My first time out, i had the cam sprocket retarded 12 degrees, this killed the torque and i ran 16.4 1/4 mile.
so i set it back to stock and ran 16.1

Then, i did the muffler swap & went back and this time I ran 15.8 ...

at this time, i have yet to go back to find out what the gains of the cam sprocket & cai COMBINATION will yield, however I feel that i should be able to run faster than 15.5 ...

Ok everybody, after $300 in dyno fees & about $1000 in stupid mods, you have some quantifiable results to compare your own mods to... Also, there are many things yet to be tested that I most likely will never do.. such as a light weight crank pulley, & fidanza flywheel, MSD ignition and etc.....

Thanks alot for reading through this post and I hope a mod makes it a sticky.... :) :bowdown:
 
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#5 ·
Great info! Thanks for taking the time to document everything
 
#6 ·
FF - What fuel tuner did you use? Thanks for the dyno's. I agree - let's qantify this stuff, otherwise its too subjective - how a person feels, the weather, etc.

- Woody
 
#7 ·
Woody said:
FF - What fuel tuner did you use? ..

- Woody
I used the Split Second ARC1 Fuel tuner.

It is a very basic unit, it does not use rpm as a reference, it only adjusts the map sensor signals based on load values...

it calculates load based on the changes in the map sensor output and then alters the signal THEN sends it to the ecu..

it has two knobs, one for +/- 20% LOW load, and one for +/- 20% for high load...

all i did was set it on notch # - 4 on the high side, thats it.
 
#9 ·
KeWLKaT said:
One question: when you reset the ECU, for how much time exactly do you press on the brake pedal?
1 or 2 seconds... lol

just to force the system to discharge all of its reserve energy... I also turn the key like if i'm trying to start the car, that way if there is any caps in the ecm that are charged.. they will be forced to discharge ! :)
 
#11 ·
Phiber said:
Not so much 'reserve' as residual energy.
I only meant that in reference to other small caps that are inside of the ecm module...

:)

I've heard people say it takes at least 15 minutes to discharge... apparently that is incorrect because I just did the procedure that I outlined earlier and immediately plugged the battery back on and ran the dyno again & it showed the fuel corve correction & gained power instantly...

:)
 
#14 · (Edited)
One thing Ive always wondered, is for the second dyno, where you gained 4hp/5tq, is that just from resetting the ecu? On your first dyno, you never reset the ecu. I dunno if Im explaining this right.

(The only mod variables for first two dynos were muffler and ecu resetting)

1st Dyno: Magnaflow Straight Thru Muffler (NO RESET of ECU)
128hp/121tq

1st Dyno: Straight Thru + Fuel Tuning (-4%) (No reset of ecu)
130hp/121tq

2nd Dyno: Chambered Muffler (No Reset of ECU)
123hp/117tq

2nd Dyno: Chambered Muffler (Reset of ECU)
128hp/121tq

2nd Dyno: Chambered Muffler + Fuel Tuning (-4%) (After reset of ecu)
132hp/126tq

The only reason I ask is because alot of people say that chambered is the best for our cars, because Ford's dyno says there is a gain. But according to the dynos, only after resetting the ecu on the chambered exhaust, were you able to run what you ran on the straight thru (w/o resetting ecu) dyno. So my main question is, if you had reset the ecu on your first dyno run, what would you have ran? If your gaining hp/tq from resetting the ecu, the 1st dyno readings (muffler and fuel tuning) would have been higher than the second dyno readings, if a reset was done.


Ima noob tho, and prolly wrong. LOL

Possible Outcomes if a Reset was done???

1st Dyno: Magnaflow Straight Thru Muffler
134hp/124tq (5hp/4tq gain from reset)

1st Dyno: Straight Thru + Fuel Tuning (-4%)
137hp/129tq (3hp/5tq from tuning)
 
#15 ·
actually i've thought about this. what ford doesn't mention is that hes running a 2.25" exhaust (NO CATS!!!!). my theory is that the chambered muffler added some much needed backpressure to the exhaust which helps out our engine since its so small thus the improved HP numbers
 
#19 · (Edited)
you said that with the straight through you didn't do a reset? What numbers do you think you would have made if you did do the reset? my bad i missed that you had posted that earlier lol
 
#20 ·
The numbers are useful, but as someone mentioned, the numbers would have been better if the ECM was reset before the mod, then dyno 1. Then mod, then reset, then dyno 2.

The question was asked "why the loss of power" or "did the ECM reset give the power gain"

The answer to this is: No, the reset alone did not cause the gain.
The ECM created/learned a fuel/air ratio for the way the car was setup before (based on how you drive, etc.). When the mod was installed, the fuel/air ratio was not "prime" for the new mod, so the performance increase was not apparent. The car needed to "relearn" based on the change. If there is a reset before "Dyno without" and before "Dyno with" the computer has no chance to "learn" either time, and you get the best/cleanest numbers to compare.

One could argue that the best numbers could be "Dyno without mod, with learned info" and "Dyno with mod, with learned info" but that takes a bit of driving in between Dynos for the ECM to learn the new mod and thus the instant gratification of the mod is lost.

mandarin
 
#21 ·
hi i have this question for some quite time almost a year,....can u advance timing in a cvvt 04 elantra?? or just on the non cvvt?? also which can be the best insulator to use for the intake? I used to have CAI but the dismounting process to clean it what toooooo long so i prefer for that the sri, but whick way i can make the sri have a colder air intake? thanks for the reply...
 
#23 ·
Everyone says that you can't use it on a CVVT motor, but the thing is is that the CVVT module only affects the intake cam, whereas the adjustable cam gear will change the exhaust cam. So it actually could show some gains...
 
#24 ·
maybe if you feel like pulling the valve cover off and installing the adjustable gear you can BUT the cam sprocket thast on the outside of the head will not work because it adjusts BOTH cams in line with each other, this pisses off the CVVT.
 
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