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· With Odin on our side...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally did. I'am not disappointed. It looks and works as good or better than I thought. I figure I'll make this a guide as to what I did, step by step. (maybe it might become a D.I.Y. piece, who knows). Before I begin, I just wanted to mention a couple things. 1- This is not for the faint of heart, or for the inexperienced. 2- If you do attempt this or any project like this, make sure you have every conceivable part you are going to require beforehand. 3- Do your research. Find out what parts are required to be replaced to accomodate a swap or change. 4- Make sure you have the proper tools to do something like this. This will reduce aggravation and down time. I 'am am going to post this in two parts. First, the removal process. Then, the conversion and install. I condensed the pics to only what is needed to be seen to explain as I go along;

1 - I started by raising and properly supporting my vehicle by the rear crossmember. Then I removed my rear tires;

(Tip: I sprayed all applicable bolts with Liquid wrench the day before)

2- Next, remove the drums. If you happen to strip that pain in the ^$## machine screw, with a small drill bit you can drill it out.


3- After removing the drum, remove the center hub cap. With an 1 1/4 socket, loosen the hub retaining nut. USe a breaker bar, because this nut is torqued to 180 ft/lbs. Remove the hub. If your drum is frozen on, remove the hub and drum together, than tap the hub off the drum. The hub is re-usable. Do not throw away.


4- Remove the front and back brake shoe retaining springs.


5 - Remove as an assembly. There is a retaining clip behind the backing plate that holds the brake cable in place. Remove it first. Then, disconnect your parking brake cable.


6 - Disconnect and remove the brake hose. (The replacement hose has a special fitting to accomodate the caliper) Discard. Save any and all clips for the brake hose. Remove the four bolts from the backing plate. Remove the backing plate.


7 - What remains is the spindle (knuckle). Spray all the bolts on the suspension parts. And start loosening them. Usually, the long bolt is sometimes a problem. From soaking everything in lube, it came out without much difficulty..


8 - Remove all the bolts, and then the spindle (knuckle).


Here is the difference between the two knuckles: right - drum. Left - disk.

I bought a rear suspension off an 03 with ABS for about $200, in a Staten Island junkyard. The knuckles, brand new from the dealer, $300. Online, best price $228. And thats for one, not two.

9 - Re-install new knuckle with lots of never-seize. I replace the long bolt with a new one and torqued to spec's.

Here ends part I. I'll need a day or so for part 2...........
 

· Registered
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Dude...I mean come on.....

this is the worst write up ever...

that is of course if you can't read english...cause if you can, it F'in rocks!!!!

Nice job. Many Kudos for takin it upon yourself to be the first to try.

Will be awaiting the rest of it for sure. :bowdown:
the only thing that would make it rock even more is....

can anyone guess...

that's right kids....

Part numbers.
 

· With Odin on our side...
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I'll include a parts list in part 2 with prices..ABS parts and non-ABS are interchangable unless you have ABS to begin with..
 

· Final Fantasy 7=Teh Sex
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3,842 Posts
Damn man, finding a junked tiburon with the four lug design or xd gt would of been alot easier. The knuckles would of ligned right up. But I give you props, your the first one in a XD to go this.
 

· Calf...Ankles...Cankles!!
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12,678 Posts
i think he tried to use RD rear setup which doesnt fit
 

· With Odin on our side...
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: 04 Elantra rear drum to disc conversion...Part II

I just wanted to make a few comments before I begin; 1- The first part involved disassembly, nothing was changed yet. Hence, no part #'s. 2 - Rough crowd. I figure I document what I did in two parts, because of all the pictures I have to upload and host. ( It got a little tedious). 3 - To anyone else, I apologize for the inconvience. I will include part #'s in this section....
I obtained the entire rear suspension off a wrecked 2003 Elantra (not RD), that had ABS on it for $200. I re-used the knuckles, calipers, brake hoses, and any attaching hardware. (Knuckles- Hyundai part #52750-29100 - left hand, # 52760-29100 - Right hand.) From the dealer they're about $280 - $300 a piece. Aftermarket about $200 - $220 a piece. In regards to ABS, the parts will fit non-abs. The only difference is that they're are extra mounting points on the knuckle for the wheel speed sensors. Calipers and other items are the same ,and will fit.
I cleaned, and glass-beaded the knuckles. Then, coated them with hi-temp black paint. The pic shows difference between the drum and disc knuckles. The left (disc) knuckle also has the extra mounting point for the ABS wheel speed sensor, which doesn't affect anything.


Now, I started to install the knuckle. I re-used the trailing arm bolt, and the two strut bolts. I bought two extra suspension arm bolts ( the long one), in case I had to beat the old ones out. Hyundai part #62617-1700 -bolt, and # 33131-42000 nut. Bolts are sold in pairs, and nuts in a four piece package. Every bolt that I use the install the knuckle , got a good coating of never-seize.


I mounted the knuckle, and torqued the bolts to spec; rear suspension arm mounting bolt ( long bolt) 118-133 ft. lbs, rear strut lower mounting bolts 81-96 ft. lbs., and rear trailing arm to rear carrier 74-89 ft.lbs. (As per Hyundai service manual). The I bolt on the dust shield ( Hyundai part #58243-29300 LH, #58244-29300 RH). The only issue I had with the cover is one mounting hole had to be enlarged a little bit. Next, I re-used the wheel hub assembly and mounted it to the knuckle. Yes, thats right, the hub is re-useable and will fit. Torque the castle nut to spec. (159-192 ft. lbs.) and staked it into the groove on the spindle. No cotter pins are required.


At this point I had to change the parking brake cables. Hyundai part #59760-2D330 LH ($50.29), and #59770-2D330 RH (83.82). Why one costs more?? Don't have a clue. Same length, nothing really different. Even the parts guy was puzzled. But no cable. no parking brake. The cables have 3 mounting tabs. The cables snake underneath, and into the center tunnel. The last mount tab holds it in from underneath.


You have to remove the center console to get to it. Pop off the shifter cover.


Remove three screws on each side, then remove the console.


Now you have full access to the cables from the inside.


After changing the cables, I replaced the brake hoses. The difference is the (banjo) fitting that attached to the caliper.


Note: I had a major issue with the hoses. THe parts guy gave me the wrong ones. The end that connects to the hard line (metal) had a different fitting on the end. The metal line on the car has a bubble (ISO / metric) type of flare on it. The hose require the opposite. (Thank God) I saved the old ones from the wreck. They fit perfectly. I think the Parts guy (dope...oops) got it wrong. I told him it was for ABS, and I think he ordered for TCS as well. I have to do more research on part #'s, sorry...I installed the hoses from the wreck.


Now I can start with the caliper. Mount the parking brake cable guide onto the caliper. Note: another very important part. No bracket, no parking brake. I re-used this part from the wreck. Hyundai does not sell this piece seperately . It only comes in a caliper kit ( Hyundai part #58310-29A20 - LH, and #58320-29A20 - RH). Price was about $228.00 per side. I love junk yards. Here is the guide and cable installed..


Oh, if you are going to detail (paint) your calipers, now is the time to do it. I installed the rotor, caliper bracket, pads ( EBC greenstuff), and caliper. In that order..Note: The rotors are slotted / cross-drilled. I got them from Ebay. The name of the seller was R1 concepts. They come with silver zinc plating and costed $118 for the full set ( front and back)....


Now the caliper bracket and pads;


Now the caliper;


At this point, you need to bleed the brakes. Then adjust your parking brakes from the inside at the parking brake equilizer bracket. Specs call for 9 clicks maximum. ( adjusting nut is 12 mm)


Finished product;


There you have it...If anyone needs pics, part #'s, etc, PM me. I'll be more than happy to provide them...I need to call it a day

Damn. I double posted................
 

· KDM to JDM.
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6,441 Posts
Looks amazing. Do you have a picture or list of everything you pulled off the car from the junkyard and what wasn't reuseable and had to be bought?

Looks amazing, good job.


(btw you double posted)
 

· With Odin on our side...
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got a small stock pile of left overs, but heres the pic when I picked it up..I sold the struts to IKE.


Good the double post has been removed. Thank you...
 

· With Odin on our side...
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Anyone can do it. It wasn't too bad. It also helped that I collected 98% of the parts ahead of time. It took About a day, not including the required beer breaks..This will also be ( hopefully), a valuable contribution to this highly butt-kickin' site. I hope part II will meet most people's expectations.
The fact that most of the parts came off a car with ABS doesn't matter. The parts bolt up the same, no difference or modification required. I don't know if ABS was an option on the models with rear drum. But if it were, simply re-use the old hub and make sure the knuckles are ABS style.
Brain-fart.......A kit would be nice. I'll stick to a parts list and let people shop for better prices. If anyone wants a complete parts, let me know. I'll email a list of everything I used.
 

· Calf...Ankles...Cankles!!
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12,678 Posts
going to the junkyard today for the 50% off sale. i doubt theyll have what i need but i plan on getting any parts i can sell (ie, another rear disc conversion, 1.8 intake cam, if theres a GK tib, i WILL be stripping it)
 

· KDM to JDM.
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6,441 Posts
txdproject said:
Im guessing this diy is easier for the gt owners... cuz i wanna do a swap from the non vented discs to vented

in the back

gt owners already have rear disc. there is no conversion to do!
 

· Premium Member
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15,251 Posts
txdproject - All you need to do is change your rotors.


Great write-up on the drum-to-disc swap! I'm exstatic someone has actually FINALLY done this. This has been a constant question/thought of almost everyone from the beginning of EXD.
 
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