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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What a difference! I had an ACT ACT-HY1-HDG6 clutch kit (ACT Heavy duty pressure plate, ACT 6 puck ceramic "racing" clutch disc, ACT throw-out bearing) installed earlier this week, and WOW! :D

I'm using a stock flywheel, which seems to work fine with the new clutch and pressure plate.

There is a slightly stiffer clutch pedal feel due to the HD pressure plate, but it's not nearly as stiff as my old '78 GMC pickup's 350 ci V8 4-speed manual transmission clutch. It's easily manageable, and I prefer it to the stock mushy clutch pedal feel.

The clutch grabs immediately when I let the pedal out with almost no slippage at all! It totally changes the feel of the powertrain in a very positive, sports-car way. :cool:

It will take me a few days to get the feel for the new clutch. I've only driven it about 5 miles since the clutch got put in and I drive it less than 20 miles a day, typically.

I haven't stalled the car yet, but I have lurched on takeoff and when shifting between gears. I bet I could burn tire popping the clutch now, even when moving / shifting if I rev the engine up (with the S/C) enough before letting the clutch out!

It's SO much better than the factory clutch ever was. I can see that it might be a pain in stop-and-go traffic, but other than that I think it will be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I actually based my decision on the ACT puck clutch partly on your recommendations, Felix.

I had my local private garage / mechanic install it. I don't have the patience, time and space to that level of internal powertrain work myself. I also have never installed a clutch before, and if I did something wrong, I'd have to tear half the stuff under the hood apart to fix it again. I'm happy to have a professional do the internal stuff, while I do the bolt-on stuff.

Yep, it will take me a whlie to brake it in at 20 miles or so a day (almost a month)! I'm not planning on beating on it (other than by accident until I get used to it) until I've fully broken it in. I guess the feel of it might change over that time, too.

I haven't had trouble with noise from the clutch when engaging. I do have a little vibration during idle in neutral. I'm guessing that the springs on the clutch aren't broken in yet and other things might have to spin a while to get broken in fully before that will go away.

I haven't gotten the car above ~40 mph for any length of time yet -- it's all city streets between the garage, home and work. I've heard that puck clutches might whine a bit at higher / sustained RPM, so I'll have to see how noticable that is. Of course, depending on the loudness / pitch of the whine, I might not be able to hear it over the S/C.
 

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Ninja Super Mod
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^ I was thinking that the clutch properties might change after break in... I'll keep you updated.
 

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Cool. My 4-puck made a horrible noise when you slip it to get it moving which is why i hated it. Does the 6 puck have the same problem?
Yes, yes it does, kind of embarassing actually when you hear it...but I normally dont slip it as I drive alone most of the time.
 

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see. that clutch experience thread was a good idea!
 

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I have never had any complaints out of my ACT 4 puck, though I use a solid hub instead of sprung. Hope you enjoy your 6 puck :D
 

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Blue RD2
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i have a 6puck and it dosent make any noise, infact it only ever made noise or chattered when i was using a TOB more then 1 time. you cant reuse those things and i didnt want to listen and i ended up having to take it back off agin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I guess it's broken in now. It still grabs very hard with almost no slip, but doesn't chatter nearly as bad as it did when brand new.

I have no noise from it or any other negatives to say, other than I now have to stiffen the motor mounts because the clutch doesn't absorb as much of the shock of takeoff and shifting. I'm getting a clunking sound from the rear motor mount, probably because it's not stiff enough.
 

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Ninja Super Mod
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I'm getting a clunking sound from the rear motor mount, probably because it's not stiff enough.
ACTUALLY.

Everyone who ''drives'' their XD in any way, I have always noticed that the rear (firewall side) motor mount is broken (torn on the inside). This was the case on my car, and 5 other ones I saw for myself. Those mounts are total poop.

This is what I recommend ;)

http://www.elantraxd.com/DIY/mounts.php



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
^ Yep, that's what I plan to do, which is why I have a WTB post for motor mounts... :)

I guess I should say, in closing, that this ACT-HY1-HDG6 clutch / HD pressure plate combination with a stock flywheel seems to be great after approximately 500 mile break in period. Racing clutches supposedly don't need a break in period, but perhaps the flywheel needs to be worn to the clutch.

I would recommend it to anyone who needs a more robust clutch, as long as they change the motor mounts or fill them with urethane. Just be aware that the car will be very difficult to drive for the first 500 miles or so due to the shudder / chatter during takeoff and the instant grab!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Supposedly, the only thing you might get with an unsprung clutch versus a sprung clutch is more vibration when the clutch is un-engaged.

I don't know what difference the flywheel will make. I believe Felix had one with his 4 puck.
 
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