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I also want to add to anyone reading this and whos unsure, Clutchs for all 97-01 tiburons will work fine, as will any listed for the elantras and 2.0 GK tibs. Please don't ask this question or say you can't find _____ clutch for your car. Those clutches will work fine.

Cypher said:
OK. I think I've had this setup for much longer than anyone else so I thought I'd put my thoughts out on it.

My setup: XTD Stage 3 Clutch + 11lb Prolite Flywheel

I bought this setup back in summer of '05 and didn't get around to installing until October 1st, 2005. The whole shebang cost about $299 IIRC. Aside from the "normal" frustration that most people get when doing a clutch on these cars for the first time, the install went along fine. I had about 68-69k on my car when it was installed.

Upon first startup it was evident that the clutch pedal was much more springy. That would be the best way I could describe it. There was a little more resistance than there was with OEM but not as much as an old time cable clutch. You could tell the clutch was beefier.

The clutch disk itself was a 6puck. As anyone will tell you, driving a 6puck takes some getting used to but I didn't stall when I first drove it like I know another member did ;). Its normal for there to be a chatter when engaging the clutch slowly, if you get on it quick and go, its a slow engagement. Theres also a "whine", which is the best way to put it, that you'll get at times that other people with 6 pucks have experienced. This is normal.

At the time it was installed I was N/A modded. I was never able to get it to slip or to burn it. I dynoed out at 141whp which isn't alot but it held it fine and still holds fine. I have raced a whole bunch of times, 15+ runs down the 1/4 and of course other runs/spirited driving else wheres so this clutch has seen its share of abuse.

The car now has 125,XXXmiles on it and I still have this clutch installed. It still does great and still doesn't slip when I beat on it. I'd recommend this clutch to anyone who just plans on N/A and possibly spraying nitrous on it. I really have nothing but good to say about my experience with this clutch.

If you have any questions about the clutch/flywheel combo just ask away, I just wanted to put this up since its an ebay clutch and offer my thoughts to anyone else considering it.
I have had two different combos on my car, so I will share both experiences with you:

1- ACT Street Clutch Kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~950$

I recommend this for anyone who's N/A. Stay away from this if F/I. I had this particular combo for about 20,000KM. Half of it was boosted, and the other half N/A. I was pushing about 11psi daily on the Alpine Turbo.

One day as I was doing a WOT run on the highway it slipped. Not a bit, but, very badly. It felt like it just let something loose and then from that moment on it would slip all the time in WOT over 3,000rpm in any gear. They say rated for 240wtq. I highly doubt this is the case, because i sure as hell wasn't making that much power!

But, I must say that now since I am back to N/A I chose this kit again (see next paragraphs for the intermediate kit I had), and I am very satisfied. Definitely the best combo for NA performance in my opinion because the disc is organic but holds more than stock, without the drawbacks of pucked discs (see below).

2- ACT 4 puck ceramic sprung kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~980$

This kit was so-so. It was holding the boost well for the little while I had it when turbocharged, but I only kept the turbo for about another 8,000km so I didn't really get the chance to beat on it. However, I did not like this clutch at all. The break-in period was horrible, but that's not it. It chatters badly if you're not used to it, but a couple of days and you get to know it.

However, my biggest complaint and possibly the reason why I chose to remove it after 10,000km is the WHINE. God damn is it annoying. Every time you slip it it makes a horrible whining sound. And I'm guessing the 4 puck is worse the 6 puck from what I gather. And for those who say "I don't slip the clutch blah blah blah'', yes, you do when you take off from a dead stop, don't tell me you chirp the tires in the middle of traffic all the time, you can get a ticket for that.

However, the Fidanza flywheel hasn't caused me problems. The fact that they use the stock ring gear on it makes it safer than ebay knock-offs that might chip a tooth or a couple (I saw that happen on RDT).

All this said, I've owned both these combos, in order, and now, I'm back to the ACT street disc!


Any other members who feel like doing a similar thing about their aftermarket clutch/flywheel combo (Felix, Donnie, Ish, anyone at all) please do and I will quote and add it to the oringal post
 

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Ninja Super Mod
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I have had two different combos on my car, so I will share both experiences with you:

1- ACT Street Clutch Kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~950$

I recommend this for anyone who's N/A. Stay away from this if F/I. I had this particular combo for about 20,000KM. Half of it was boosted, and the other half N/A. I was pushing about 11psi daily on the Alpine Turbo.

One day as I was doing a WOT run on the highway it slipped. Not a bit, but, very badly. It felt like it just let something loose and then from that moment on it would slip all the time in WOT over 3,000rpm in any gear. They say rated for 240wtq. I highly doubt this is the case, because i sure as hell wasn't making that much power!

But, I must say that now since I am back to N/A I chose this kit again (see next paragraphs for the intermediate kit I had), and I am very satisfied. Definitely the best combo for NA performance in my opinion because the disc is organic but holds more than stock, without the drawbacks of pucked discs (see below).

2- ACT 4 puck ceramic sprung kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~980$

This kit was so-so. It was holding the boost well for the little while I had it when turbocharged, but I only kept the turbo for about another 8,000km so I didn't really get the chance to beat on it. However, I did not like this clutch at all. The break-in period was horrible, but that's not it. It chatters badly if you're not used to it, but a couple of days and you get to know it.

However, my biggest complaint and possibly the reason why I chose to remove it after 10,000km is the WHINE. God damn is it annoying. Every time you slip it it makes a horrible whining sound. And I'm guessing the 4 puck is worse the 6 puck from what I gather. And for those who say "I don't slip the clutch blah blah blah'', yes, you do when you take off from a dead stop, don't tell me you chirp the tires in the middle of traffic all the time, you can get a ticket for that.

However, the Fidanza flywheel hasn't caused me problems. The fact that they use the stock ring gear on it makes it safer than ebay knock-offs that might chip a tooth or a couple (I saw that happen on RDT).

All this said, I've owned both these combos, in order, and now, I'm back to the ACT street disc!



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I have had 2 differant setups also
My first set up was a f1 clutch kit stage three with 12lb flywheel
it was good a little hard to get used to
this set up took beating I tested this setup to the fullest dumping the clutch power shifting racing at the track . it took a lot of abuse then it started to slip . but it is really strong because when i mean it was tested if you only knew.
(this is before i realized that i had to grow up and that it get expensive when you break things doing stupid stuff like what i did)
The second is new i just put it in it is an f1 clutch stage one with a 12lb fly wheel
I love it real smooth to drive and it graps when you want to put the power to the down
This is the way to go for lower hp car. There is no need to have a clutch that can hold 350hp when you are only making around 140hp
But that is just from my experiences also i work on car for a living so the last thing i want to do is work on my car on my days off. I is one thing if i am doing performance parts but it sucks having to fix it
 

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i got std stage 3 clutch w/ resurfaced/lighted flywheel
resurfaced flywheel is allot cheaper than buying a light weight one but also only took about 5.5 lbs off.. the clutch itself is great. ive had it on for 15k and so far its amazing. did the install on my own with the help of the shop owner that let me use his lift. ive heard some some skepticisms about xtd but i think its awesome. had 50k miles on the stock b4 having to change it. the xtd stage 3 is great for moderate hp and very fast response. i have used it on the 8th drag and have yet to get any slippage.
 

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I've had the HVE 4-puck ceramic clutch and factory flywheel installed for about 30,000 miles.

Pros:

The break-in for this clutch, as suggested directly by HVE, was to take it to a deserted paved road, rev to about 5K and dump the clutch. Rinse and repeat approximately 10 times. Done.

It sticks no matter what. See also: Cons...

No whine. Those of you with other pucked clutches may have either throwout bearings that are different (not necessarily bad) or maybe it's the pressure plate they send with it, or maybe the sprung hub? Who knows, but mine doesn't whine at any RPM or temperature.

Generally speaking, it's very drivable once you get over the whole "trying to slip it" thing. You have to relearn how to approach hills and bumps and the like, but ultimately I don't have any problems going to work, getting groceries, and other such mundane everday activities with this clutch.

Cons:

It chatters. That's what pucked clutches do, especially when they're inorganic materials. If you don't want clutch chatter, don't get an inorganic clutch.

It sticks no matter what. For those of you with 250HP+ power and good tires, this clutch makes it very easy to shred your stock diff. Better yet, if you've got a big pile of horsepower on tap and a strong aftermarket diff and good tires, it's also quite capable of snapping an axle... (actually it broke the CV joint, but who's counting?) It only happened once though, and it was the stocker axle after more than 100k on the odometer. May have been some other structural issue with that particular shaft...

It eats the stock flywheel, and I'm not kidding. After about 25,000 miles I dropped the tranny for some diff work. The stock flywheel has a trench dug into it about 1/4" deep from clutch wear -- clutch still had a relatively decent amount of material left. I'm not overly concerned as I'm using a stock flywheel, but if you had a stock unit that is machined down to save weight, you could be in for a quick catastrophe...

I don't remember how much it cost, and unfortunately you can't buy it anymore it seems :( I really like this clutch, and will be sad to see it go when I need to replace it eventually.
 

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What would be a deceant clutch to get? I am going to put my third clutch in so I am not going OEM. I dont want to spend more than $350 on the clutch. I looked all over the forum and found something about the ACT HV1-HDSS but have had no look finding it online.
 

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Calf...Ankles...Cankles!!
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stock? get an OEM clutch and learn to drive. my beater now has about 55k on the stock clutch, and runs fine.
 

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Well a little but I was sharing my car with my girl so I pretty sure that also played a good factor in it. I thought performance clutches where made to be stronger. That is what I meant by not going OEM. I would rather drop a couple hundred on one and not have to worry about it for a good while.
 

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Oh, certainly, they may last awhile longer. But it comes down to the driving feel of the clutch. Any of the more performance oriented clutches will have a different feel on the street. A Stage 1 is so near OEM, you wouldn't buy it. But a Stage II requires just a bit more pedal effort to drive it. And it only gets worse as you go up in stages. My OEM clutch has lasted me till now, at 76k miles, and that's with the first couple of years of owning the car, going to the drag strip every week and making 3 or 4 runs. I'm sure the clutch would have lasted another 25k miles if I hadn't "abused" it at the track.
 

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Well I broke down and bought my girl a car so I am not going to be sharing mine with her anymore. I would prefer a little more weight to the feel of my clutch cause it is too light. I loved the clutch in my boys Mustang so I think I might look into a stage II clutch. Any brands you would prefer and I do see a lot of people went with ACT.
 

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dik188
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What about a Centerforce II? It sounds like a good clutch- kevlar friction surface goes a long way and grabs well maintaining a stock feel.... Any input on this clutch?
 

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Final Fantasy 7=Teh Sex
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I have an old Kore Stage III in my Tiburon along with a Fidanza flywheel. I have loved the combination and have no issues with it. It catches quite a bit harder then a OEM clutch/flywheel combo, but has never given me issues, even when I was at 470whp.
 

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Not a n00b
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I have an EXEDY stage (something) Scoupe turbo clutch and a Fidanza fly wheel The grip is amazing and soon I hope to find out how weak the alpha trans is! HA!
 

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dik188
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Ok so no-one replied to me about the Centerforce stage II so I thought I'd try it anyway. I ordered it through a local performance shop since I couldn't find any online and it cost $450 CDN including their $80 tob. With shipping charges to Canada on most other better than stock products sold online I thought the price was fair. It did however end up being delayed from the factory/ warehouse in Arizona due to their suppliers not having the oem parts to make it with. I just about canceled my annual fishing trip because my stock clutch was failing. (Luckily my cousin decided to go and we took his truck.) 9 weeks from order date to received date. Not impressive, but I lost track of time anyway. The guy in the Arizona warehouse told me that due to the economy they and their suppliers cut back on stock quantities putting a lot of things on back order. I guess that's understandable, but I should've been told what was going on much earlier.

That aside, now that I have the clutch installed, well under hyundai dealer/ stock parts price, I'm quite satisfied. Pedal resistance is very close to stock, just a little smoother, and so precise when it comes to the engagement point. And it grabs firmly. I even chirped into 2nd the other day. Actually, the kevlar disc grabs enough to chatter a little on medium take-off, which surprised me because it's not an unsprung setup like many stage 3 or 4 clutches. Throttle-less take off is smooth, which will be good in the winter, and I never completely drop the clutch, but it definitely has the grab to smoke'em.

Thumbs up so far, and I'm sure the kevlar will prove durable. I've also heard their throw off bearings are very good and worth the extra $.
 

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dik188
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Don't know if anyone still looks through this thread but I've got about 10K on my Centerforce II and it's great. The chatter settled down after break in and it's smooth and solid. I would get it again (but I probably won't have to)
 

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Noob (play gunbound?)
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my XTD stage III and lightweight flywheel were chattery and really hard to drive... Eventually something snapped and the clutch snapped shut (after about 20K miles). I found out that it was the throwout bearing and a bad slave cylinder (which went bad because the guy who installed installed it upsidedown). That said, I heard that if you get this set up with a good throwout bearing (and install everything properly), it's a very good set up.

I'm still running the lightweight flywheel with a stock clutch disk and pressure plate (and new slave cylinder...). It feels like stock.
 

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stock? get an OEM clutch and learn to drive. my beater now has about 55k on the stock clutch, and runs fine.
I agree...my stock clutch lasted me until 106,988 miles. Just changed it with an Exedy clutch a month ago; it's an OEM replacement, but it grips better than my previous one. My old one lasted me well, given that some friends stalled a handful of times while teaching them how to drive stick, lol...
 

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7 psi tunned by poweraxel
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XTD stage 2 clutch and XTD flywheel combo

Had that when i was N/A and worked well till i went Turbo, the clutch had about 50k miles at the time and shortly after it started to slip.
For N/A it worked well, but could not notice much of a difference between the stock and the XTD except for the lighter flywheel. Pedal pressure is about the same as the stock.

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ACT street Clutch and F1 flywheel combo.

A more expensive clutch than the XTD but was well worth the money, The ACT is a superb clutch, it has been working very well with forced induction for almost 20,000 miles now and has never slipped.
The ACT has a bit more pressure on the pedal but not too heavy, it is great for daily driving and I would recomend this to anyone going with a mild Forced induction setup or N/A setup.
 
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